At first I thought of simply attaching new coupler pockets to the Porter's existing pilot beam but a cursory inspection suggested it was woefully inadequate. That put me into the research and development mode and, after examining a few photographs, rummaging through the scrap box, and brainstorming, I devised a most satisfactory solution. My unique building material not only provided a substantial means of attaching link-and-pin couplers, it also increased the weight of the locomotive.

What was the secret material? Linotype spacer. It is a bar of soft metal 18 inches long, .75-inch high, and .084-inch thick. The height turned out to be about that of the coupler pocket so no modification was necessary.

HARALD GOES TO WORK

I gave up finding an easy way to attach an entirely new pilot. Instead I retained Lehmann's design even though I feared it might be too flimsy for the heavy beam I intended to build. I set both the locomotive and the reworked cars on the track to determine whether to extend the beam up or down. That was necessary so the double pocket would accommodate both my rather low cars and other slightly higher rolling stock.

First I weighted the empty interior of the pilot with a combination of Hydrocal® and buckshot. Then I glued a piece of linotype to the front of the existing pilot beam flush with the top and even with the ends. That left a gap below the original pilot. I filled that with appropriately trimmed pieces of spacer. I now had a pilot beam of about the right size (4.875 inches long by .750-inch high by .420-inch deep) but it looked awful.

It then occurred to me I could simulate the sheet metal coverings on some prototype pilots by wrapping the assembly with some .005-inch thick copper sheet I inexplicably happened to have in my junk box. I wrap-glued it as one would a birthday gift and the result appears in the photo.

Next it was necessary to mark the location of the steps (Trackside Details TD-58) and coupler pocket (Ozark OM-106). I set the loco on the track, attached the pilot, set a four wheel car in front of it, and marked the location of the coupler pocket. It has six holes for nut-bolt castings but, since I was distrustful of glue alone to pull a relatively weighty train, I also marked holes for 0-80 machine screws.

With the pilot off the loco, I used a drill press to bore the holes. It was tricky because the soft linotype metal gums up the groove of the drill, then the drill sticks and, unless you're careful, it will break. The trick is to stop when the "shavings" stop coming out briskly and cleanly, manually clean the bit, and apply a trace of cutting oil.

Tapping the hole is rife with similar pitfalls. "But," you ask yourself as you look at the photo, "why did he not just drill entirely through the beam and use a screw and nut?"

Because (he answers) he did not have a screw of the proper length. Of course he could simply have threaded a .060- or .050-inch diameter rod, cut it to length, and been done with it. And I think he would do that were he to do it over again.

I drilled and tapped the steps for 00-90 and next time I definitely would just drill them for straight pins and attach them with CA. The grab iron is just a piece of brass rod. I arrived at the height by putting a 1:22.5 scale man on the step.

BOILER BRACES

At that point I became concerned about the pilot beam's weight and the ability of the small screws on the frame to hold it at the proper height. So I added adjustable, functional boiler stays. I drilled a small piece of brass angle stock to clear a 1/16-inch diameter brass rod, then cut it off and dressed it. I attached it to the boiler with a screw. The other piece of the angle would admit the brass rod.

I measured the rod, then cut it and flattened one end by smartly delivering two or three blows with a flat faced hammer. Avoid hitting it too many times. The blows work-harden the brass and make it brittle; it will break when you later have to bend it.

Eventually you will form a flat surface large enough to clear an 00-90 screw. Dress the rough edges with a small file, then bend the flattened end to the correct angle and trial fit the rod to determine its final length. Thread the upper end, insert it into the bracket, and adjust the tension to bring the pilot to the proper angle.

PAINT AND OPERATION

Remove the entire pilot, put on latex or vinyl gloves to keep off skin oils, wash the assembly gently with detergent, and let it dry. Paint it with white vinegar or, better yet, glacial acetic acid (from a photo supply house). The acid etches the metal so it will better accept primer.

Let the piece dry, avoid touching it with bare hands, and spray it with Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer. Wait a week before applying the color coat.

Now my Porter has a nice front pilot. It fits my little two-axle cars, looks good, and works well. If I want to pull cars with Kadee® or other knuckle-type couplers, all I do is adapt the coupler shank in thickness and width, drill a hole in the appropriate place, fit the modified knuckle coupler shank into the pocket, and insert the pin. An offset Kadee 836 coupler worked perfectly on my loco.

A project such as this will give your locomotive a unique feature and provide you with several hours of most pleasurable diversion. The satisfaction you derive from your own craftsmanship will add the final punctuation.