Before we may go any farther, we must assume one thing: A reasonably priced model or kit must be available to modify into a close replica of the prototype we want. If such a starting point really is available, we then must decide whether it makes more sense to kitbash or to scratchbuild.

Very rarely do we have the opportunity directly to compare a kitbashed model with a scratchbuilt version of the same thing. Well, read on and you may do just that. Maybe this article will help you to develop a new perspective on what way to go.

A TALE OF TWO REEFERS

First, as you look at the model photos, are you wondering just how in blazes the two versions come about in the first place? Did the "Ol' Do-It-Yourselfer" go off the deep end? Is he a masochist? Neither, gentle reader.

Remember when you were a kid with a coin in your pocket and an overwhelming itch to spend it? Well, something akin to that feeling overcame me after bashing the two 40 foot reefers I described in a two-part article in the October and December 1993 issues of Outdoor Railroader.

Those cars used dry transfers Larry Larsen prepared especially for that project. For insurance, Larry actually supplied me with three sets: I would actually use two and keep one for backup in case I goofed somewhere. As it turned out, I made no major error except to locate the word "Refrigerator" incorrectly, a problem our Omniscient Editor pointed out to Yours Truly after Yours Truly had applied them. [Editors are similar to policemen. They are never around when you need them and always show up after the fact.-Ed.] The third lettering set sat intact in my drawer, sort of burning a hole in my mind. Imagine. An unused set of great Larry Larsen graphics just begging to be used!

So I decided to scratchbuild a third reefer, this time to strict 1:22.5 scale, and with all the proper details. Car 167 is the result. I have nothing special to say about its construction. If you read my four part series on building a 40 foot standard gauge box car, starting in the February/March 1993 issue of OR, you know exactly how I built the third reefer. On car 167, though, the word "Refrigerator" is in its proper place! Then I sat back, looked at the kitbashed and scratchbuilt versions side by side, and made some comparisons. I now will share them with you.

If you first look at end view of the two cars, you will notice the body of kitbashed model is a little smaller in height and width than its scratchbuilt counterpart. Also the models vary slightly in proportion. The size difference exists because the Bachmann cars are closer to 1:24 scale than to 1:22.5. Ignore 167's extra hardware; either version could have had that depending on my ambition at the time. But the single most visible difference between the side and end views of each model is grab irons. The actual car had ladders and so does the scratchbuilt model. Also notice how the roof hatches differ considerably. Close scrutiny will show numerous other detail variations.

Those differences matter a great deal to the purist, and make the bashed model less than desirable. Since I am less than a purist, the differences are merely "interesting" and the bashed cars stand up very well indeed. They very adequately represent Rio Grande 40 foot reefers. Few would notice the kitbashed cars are less than scrupulous copies, particularly without a more perfect replica for comparison. Besides, they fit in beautifully with the usual LGB train cars.

Naturally, the scratchbuilt model looks good too, and surprisingly can run coupled up to the kitbashed cars without making them look out of place. If you look at any real train, the size and shape of nearly every car differs slightly anyway. So mixing kitbashed and scratchbuilt cars can look fine. (That is more true when mixing cars of varying size than when mixing subdued or weathered colors with bright, out-of-the-box colors.)

RULES TO LIVE BY

So here is Rule 1: A kitbashed model may look every bit as good on the layout as a scratchbuilt one.

But what about cost and time, and skills?.

The bashed cars cost about 60 dollars apiece, the scratchbuilt model about 50 dollars. But on that point there is no general rule; it depends so much on what model you begin with. For instance, I used the Bachmann kits' trucks and bought only metal wheels whereas car 167 received a more accurate pair of 30 dollar Ryan trucks. Car 167 also received handmade roof hatches at negligible cost but, had I known they existed at the time, I would have bought Ozark Miniatures castings for 18 dollars. So Rule 2? Cost usually favors a scratchbuilt effort...but not necessarily.

Rule 3. Scratchbuilding sometimes takes a lot l-o-n-g-e-r. Time. Ah, there's the proverbial rub! Over the years I have learned it is too discouraging to keep track of the time I spend on a project. My rule of thumb is to make a guess, then multiply by three. I have no direct comparison but would estimate scratchbuilding takes about three times longer than kitbashing.

Now a word about skill: I think some kitbash projects may require as much skill as some scratchbuilt jobs. I think that was the case with the reefers. Were you altering a kit and the work involved no changes in its basic dimensions, such as Russ Reinberg's article on modifying a Bachmann box car in the December/January 1993 issue of OR, kitbashing generally would require less skill. So here is Rule 4: Kitbashing is a good way to develop skills.

What does all the above teach us? Kitbashing may be every bit as good a choice as scratchbuilding; either version may look fine on the layout. Kitbashing has a clear advantage with respect to time but when it comes to money, the decision could go either way.

My own choice usually goes this way:

1. If somebody makes it and I have the bucks, buy it!

2. If nobody makes it, a good starting point exists, and the work seems reasonable, bash it!

3. If no other way exists and I "just must have one", scratchbuild it!

4. If an existing model virtually cries out for kitbashing into something else, ignore rules 1, 2, and 3.

After all my lofty pontificating, let's remember we really are in the hobby for fun. Mechanical considerations aside, if it ain't fun, don't do it! So, whatever of the "three Bs" you prefer, buying, bashing, or building, just have a great time doing it!