First I did some research. Terry Metcalfe's Union Pacific Freight Cars, 1936-51 has drawings and photos of the flatcars I used as a basis for my kitbash. The UP had a 40 foot flatcar measuring 42 feet 6 inches over the end sills. In 1:32 scale, the ARISTO-CRAFT 40 foot flat becomes 45 feet. I decided that was close enough. The rest of the dimensions match even more closely. We will trim the deck from 12 feet 4 inches to an exact 10 feet 6 inches wide; it will sit only about 6 scale inches higher above the rail than the prototype. The distance between the pulling face of the coupler and the end sill will be within 2 scale inches. You will notice I used a Pennsylvania flatcar instead of a Union Pacific. The reason is twofold: I had a lot of Pennsy flatcars but none with UP lettering and, because this is a generic kitbash, I thought the model could represent other railroads as well.

Although there is a lot of shaving and filing in this kitbash, it's all fairly simple work. By using ARISTO-Craft's deck, side and end sills, and underframe we save a lot of time over scratchbuilding and eliminate the need to apply lettering.

FRAME MODIFICATIONS

First remove the two trucks from the frame. We will discard the ARISTO-CRAFT trucks, wheels, and couplers. Next remove the two side sills and two end sills, also all the grab irons, retaining tabs, and screws. Use a table saw to cut 11/32-inch from of each side of the frame. Remove the four screws in the frame bolsters. Use a file to remove the 1/2- by 3/32-inch material on both sides of each frame bolster. Also on both bolsters, lower and round off the support next to each bolster pin.

Couplers: The model uses Kadee® 820 couplers. They allow the car to negotiate 4 foot radius curves. You could also use Kadee 821 couplers but they restrict the car to at least 6 foot radius curves.

The coupler gearbox mounts directly to the underside of the frame with the bolt heads on top. Trim all three mounting holes on the gearbox flush. Mount the coupler gearbox against the frame vertical support. You will have to trim it to clear nut on the rear mounting bolt. Check the coupler assembly according to Kadee's instructions. The gearbox flange (the upward facing lip on the top front of the draft gearbox) will sit about 3/32-inch ahead of the carbody end sill. Avoid keeping it flush with the end sill. Drill 5/64-inch holes and use the two center mounting holes with the 2-56 by 3/4-inch bolts Kadee supplies. If you have 5/8-inch bolts use them or cut off the 1/8-inch excess after assembly. The bolt heads must be on top of the deck. Make sure you apply graphite to the inside of the gearbox. Tighten down the bolts until the coupler shank refuses to center when you let go, then back off the nut about 1/4 turn.

MDC Trucks: Saw the coupler tang off each MDC truck. As they come, MDC Bettendorf trucks are about six scale inches too wide. The easiest way to correct that is to cut 3/32-inch from each end of the truck bolster. Be especially careful to keep the cuts square or, later, the sideframes will sit at an angle.

In addition to narrowing, the trucks will need two additional modifications to lower the flatcar deck height. Add an 11/32-inch by 5/32-inch notch on the end of each truck bolster. Also remove the truck bolster pedestal and notch the area .015-inch deep by 1/2-inch wide. Place a sideframe on a bolster end and drill a new 5/64-inch hole through the bolster using the sideframe hole as a locator. Repeat for all four sideframes. Using the set of short axle wheelsets and 1/16-inch washers, check the fit of the bolsters, sideframes, and wheelsets. The wheelsets all should roll freely. If one wheelset in the truck has drag, check to be sure the bolster end cuts are square. If both wheelsets have drag, the bolster length is incorrect. If you use 2-56 by 3/8-inch bolts, screw them in from the bottom and they will self-tap eliminating the need for washers and nuts. If you use longer bolts, the head must be on top and you will need the washers and nuts.

Checking Car Height: On only one end of the frame, remove the bolster stabilizer supports. On the other end, file them down slightly to a height of 1/8-inch. (They are about 1/32-inch too high). Place the frame on the trucks and use the Kadee coupler height gauge to be sure the car is level on the track. File again if necessary. At this time also check the clearances of all modified parts. You also may have to shave off the closest rivets on the frame bolsters. When you are satisfied the car sits level and tracks properly, remove and disassemble the trucks for painting.

Refasten the side sills with Polyzap. Check for straightness. The outside width of the sides (excluding the stake pockets) must be 3 7/16 inches. The frame and side sill ends must be flush, otherwise file or cut the frame as necessary so the end sills are flush with the side sills. Wait before gluing the end sills; you first must be notch them for the coupler gearboxes.

End Sills: You have two options. You may use the original end sills and do a lot of cutting. That saves the end detail but results in a thick end piece hard to mate with the side sill. Alternatively you may build your own end sill from .020 styrene and bracing. That will mean losing the end sill detail (unless you add it) but a better match with the side sill is possible and the cars' length will drop from 45 feet to 44 feet 6 inches. I chose to modify the original end sills.

First cut the coupler pocket and trim it to fit. Start with a slightly smaller hole and file on all three sides for a flush fit. Next, remove the material at the top edges to clear the narrower side sills and notch them for the coupler bolt head to allow the end to sit flush with the deck. Finally, glue the end sill to the frame and side sills, then trim the excess width until flush. Use putty and sand repeatedly. The cosmetic removal of the seam between the side and end sills is the most difficult part of the entire project and you should exercise the greatest care. Also putty and sand the top seam although planking will hide most of it.

Coupler Lift Bars: Coupler lift bars add a nice touch of detail. Use .030-inch brass rod and 1/32-inch cotter pins for the attachment points. Use a #69 bit to drill a hole underneath the coupler head behind the trip pin and through the bottom edge of the end sill (facing the left car corner). That hole should be 12/32-inch (plus or minus 2/32-inch) in from the side. (That is slightly lower than the hole in the photo; it shows the cotter pin mounted on the face of the end sill). Bend the cotter pin at a right angle. Trim the cotter pin lengths so the coupler pin head is flush and so the end sill pin sticks out 3/32-inch from the end sill face and is 2/32-inch below the end sill bottom edge. Remove the cotter pins after you check them for fit.

Set aside the coupler cotter pin. Slide the end sill cotter pin onto the .031-inch brass rod and bend to match the full size template. Now reduce the size of the cotter pin hole so it is as tight as possible. Set aside. When you install it, the end sill cotter pin will position the coupler release lever laterally. The coupler head cotter pin (whose opening remains large) will allow the coupler to swing back and forth, rubbing the least amount of paint off the release bar. Fasten both cotter pins with a drop of Polyzap on their shafts. Note: Recess the handle 5 to 8 inches in from the side. The Kadee coupler cotter pin should just touch the release bar loop when the coupler is fully deflected.

Grab Irons and Stirrup Steps: Use .022-inch brass rod for the grab irons and 1/64-inch by 1/16-inch brass strap for the stirrups. See Figure 4. The grabs stick out 3/32-inch. Fasten both with Polyzap. Apply the Polyzap with a toothpick to fill the grab iron holes.

Brakewheel: Cut a 3/4-inch long piece of .045-inch diameter brass rod. Cut the stem from the MDC 22 inch brakewheel and drill it to accept the rod. (A 24 inch brakewheel in O scale would also be usable since its diameter scales 16 inches in 1:32). I used a #60 bit but one slightly larger (as long as it is less than 1/16-inch) would be better. Use a toothpick to apply a tiny drop of Polyzap to the hole and insert the brass. After painting, the brake rod will mount at one end of the deck.

PAINT, FINISH, AND FINAL ASSEMBLY

Preparing the Brass: Dip all the brass parts (the 2 coupler release levers, 4 cotter pins, 8 grab irons, 4 step stirrups and brake wheel shaft) in Hobby Black for 30 seconds. Do not leave them in longer or their surface will become too rough. Hobby Black helps the paint to adhere much better by etching the brass. I want to thank Chuck Haverlah for that suggestion.

Paint: Paint the frame, including side and end sills, gearbox, coupler, and all underbody rigging. Avoid spraying paint on the truck swivel pins, inside the coupler gearbox, or on the coupler trip pin. (I use an extra pair of truck bolsters and various other masking aids). Avoid spraying too much paint on the working parts of the coupler. Spray the truck bolsters, sideframes, wheelsets, and washers. Before painting the washers, slide them onto a 1/8-inch rod mounted on a base, then add an extra washer to the top. That will allow only the outside (non-working) surface of the washers to receive paint. Avoid painting the bolster pivot hole, the journal holes, or the back of the sideframes where the wheel washers make contact. (I use a set of plastic wheels for masking). The wheelsets' treads and axle ends (where they fit in the journals) must also be free of paint. I masked them with my painting kit to save time.

I mixed Badger Milwaukee Brown with a small amount of Badger Milwaukee Maroon to match ARISTO-CRAFT's Pennsylvania Brown. Badger paints are water based. Cut them with equal parts water and add a few drops of dish detergent. The detergent is essential for allowing the paint to spread evenly.

The Deck: Make the deck from 1/16-inch by 1/4-inch (2 by 8 scale inch) basswood. (Full size planks are typically 2 3/4 by 7 1/2 inches). 2 by 6 inch planks are also correct but will not line up with the stake pockets on this model and would require extra cutting. Cut 50 pieces 3 15/16 inches long and, for the ends, 15 pieces 3 7/16 inches long. Also cut 2 pieces 1/16- by 1/16- by 3 15/16 inch. For variety, stain the wood in different batches with isopropyl rubbing alcohol and India ink, adding more India ink as you go. I also nicked some of the ends to suggest splitting. Fasten the deck with Walthers' Goo. Begin at the center and work toward the ends using the stakes and a ruler to check centering and squareness. The 1/16- by 1/16-inch pieces fit between the second and third stake pocket from each end. Placing the filler pieces there should eliminate the need to trim any ends. Notice the single long board between the stake pocket and shorter end pieces. Make the stakes from 5/32- by 5/32- by 1 1/2 inch (4 scale feet) or longer strips.

Final Assembly: Reassemble the trucks. Fasten one sideframe to each bolster end. Squirt graphite into all the journal holes. Slide the washers onto the axle ends and assemble the opposite side. Check to see they roll freely and re-attach the trucks to the frame. Use the original screws and leave as much play as possible while being sure the truck bolster will not slide off the frame bolster pin. Touch up any paint chips.

Weathering: Lightly spray Testor's Dullcote on the ends of the side sills (where the seams are) to blend the glossy Badger finish with the semi-gloss finish of the original paint. If necessary, also spray around the edges of the stirrup steps. Spray the brown/maroon mix to blend the sides together, then add a wash of Floquil Engine Black to fade the white graphics. With that, you car is ready for service.

PARTS LIST

1 ea. ARISTO-CRAFT Flatcar
2 ea. Bags Gary Raymond 133RS #1 scale 33" Rail-GlideTM Short Axle
1 ea. Bag Gary Raymond W063B 1/16" washers
1 ea. #6 Washer
1 ea. Bag Kadee® 820 #1 Scale Couplers
4 ea. MDC G55101 Bettendorf Sideframes
2 ea. MDC G55004 Bolsters
1 ea. MDC G46002 Brakewheel
1 ea. K & S .030" diameter brass rod
1 ea. K & S .045" diameter brass rod
4 ea. 1/32" by 3/8" cotter pins
1 ea. 1/64" by 1/16" brass strap
4 ea. 2-56 by 5/8" bolts
22 feet 1/16" by 1/4" basswood
1 foot 1/16" by 1/16" basswood

TOOLS

Table saw
Razor saw
Small flat screwdriver
Small Phillips head screwdriver
18" Ruler
6" ruler with 1/32" increments
6" long by 1/8" diameter rod and base
#69 drill bit
1/16" drill bit
5/64" drill bit
3/32" drill bit
5/32" drill bit
Hand drill
Power drill
Sand paper #320 and #600
1/2" square file
Small flat file
Needlenose pliers
Northwest Shortline Chopper 3
Northwest Shortline True Sander
Dr. Microtools Putty
Polyzap adhesive
Powdered graphite
Airbrush
Badger Milwaukee Brown
Badger Milwaukee Maroon
Floquil Engine Black
Floquil Diosol
Gary Raymond PTKT1 #1 scale painting kit