As a result of that study I picked up another pair of Bachmann reefer kits so I could build both long and short versions. Following Dave's instructions was easy and the results so pleased me, I delved back into previous copies of OR in search of another project. I came across one by John T. Derr on page 79 of the June/July 1993 issue on how to improve LGB's D&RGW baggage car. The two articles together gave me the idea of kitbashing a pair if Bachmann passenger cars into a single center door model similar to D&RGW 126. I would need a Bachmann double door car and a combine kit.

CUTS AND JOINTS

I set about the project by dismantling the baggage car. I set aside the roof and chassis since they would require no modification. Then I cut the carbody into three sections so I could re-use the scrap pieces. The first cut was on the second groove to the right of the right-hand door. The second was on the second groove to the left of the left-hand door. As Figure 1 illustrates, that resulted in a single piece I called section "C". Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the car.

Place the two C sections aside, then re-fit the two ends, "A", to the roof as in Figure 2.

Remove the four lugs from the center of the baggage car floor. The lugs hold up the center partitions. You also must remove the small strip at the center of the floor so, later, it will accommodate a center door. Finally, fill the various holes in the floor with Squadron Green plastic filler, Bondo, or whatever other material you prefer. After you have filled and sanded the floor smooth, paint it (I used dark brown) and let it dry overnight.

Remove the superstructure from the combine kit and, as in Figure 3, cut out the side door and panel sections, again with an eye on re-using any leftover parts. I made the first cut on the second groove from the end of the car and the second cut on the second groove from the window nearest the side door. That will leave you with a panel containing sixteen planks on each side of the door. Put aside the remaining combine kit until later.

Measure the distance between the two "A" sections and mark the center of the roof. Then measure and mark the top center of the door, "B". Use Figure 4 as a guide. Finally, cement the two together, as in Figure 4.

Again referring to Figure 4, measure the distance between each edge of "B" and the corresponding edge of "A". That distance should be approximately 1.75 inches. Cut four wall panels from the discarded center sections of the double door baggage car body as in Figure 5. On my model, each section was eleven planks wide. I cut two pieces from each side and called each piece "D". Remember to clean up the cuts with a file or sandpaper.

Cement the three middle sections on each side to the roof and ends. The order, as Figure 5 shows, is "A", "D", "B", "D", "A". Reinforce the back of the newly fabricated wall with 2.5 by 3.5 inch rectangles of styrene. Clamp the parts together to be certain all sides properly align with one another.

PAINT, LETTERING, AND DETAILS

Let the cement cure for 24 hours, then paint the carbody, apply decals or dry transfers, and replace the handrails using either the originals or Phoenix coach detail kits. Turn the carbody upside down onto the roof and replace the doors. Place the floor onto the carbody, locate it with the two screws at each end, and snap the floor into the body. Be sure the doors open and close.

If the center of the chassis sags slightly in the middle, either cement it to the carbody or glue a small piece of wood or styrene to the inside of section B. When you screw the floor to the wood, the sag will disappear.

To complete the model, attach either Bachmann trucks or suitable alternatives.

My approach is far from the most sophisticated kitbash possible but its simplicity results in a total construction time of under five hours. I hope it inspires you as much as "Do-It-Yourself Dave's" article inspired me.

A Work Train Combine

BY MAC MCCALLA

HERE WE GO again! Anybody with a few hours of extra time may convert a plastic railroad coach into a more realistic and better looking car. Once I had assembled the kit, the work train combine took five hours to complete. Aside from paint, it requires only three items: Wooden stir sticks, a razor saw, and glue (I used a hot glue gun).

Pick a photo of an actual car. I used the excellent photos in Robert Grandt's Narrow Gauge Pictorial, Volume X, available in many hobby shops. That book contains page after page of work train photos covering not only passenger car conversions but boxcars, flatcars, and specialty equipment.

To begin, measure the wood sticks against the car sides, cut them to size, and fit them in place. Then glue the sticks to the side of the car. That completes construction. How simple can it get?

Just for character, I also cut away half of the roof of my model, covered the resulting hole with sheet styrene, and added various roof details.

After you have "wooded over" the car sides and ends, it's time to paint. Decide what color you prefer. Most work train cars were gray. Paint right over the wood. If you have an airbrush and want the car to appear weathered, thin the paint by about 25-percent. That will better allow it to soak into the wood, resulting in a aged appearance. If you have no access to an airbrush, you may paint the model with an aerosol can. If you paint a small area at a time and work quickly, you might be able to brush thinner onto the wood parts to create a similar aged effect. That requires more skill and time and, if it turns out badly, you may always re-spray the car. You may also enhance the paint job by brushing on powdered pastel chalks or by very lightly airbrushing on streaks to represent soot, dust, or rust.

Add whatever personal touches you think of and your car is finished.