The governing idea is simple: The roadbed must drain off all water (whether rain, snow, sleet, or lawn sprinkling) and allow the track to float freely on the ballast. The illustration tells the story.

CONSTRUCTION

Temporarily lay down the track. Mark the right-of-way with wooden stakes. Place the stakes on both sides of the track, forming a channel about ten inches wide between the stakes. Remove the track. Then, with a post hole digger, excavate a six or seven inch deep trench between the stakes. The trench should follow the trackplan throughout the layout. Digging it is by far the most difficult phase of construction.

Place the following in the trench:

1. Plastic weed barrier, twelve to fourteen inches wide and as long as possible.

2. Four inch diameter perforated flexible pipe. It comes in sections ten feet long. Fold the weed barrier around the pipe.

3. Number 57 washed granite (or something similar, such as number 5 roofing rock). Use enough to cover the pipe and to fill the trench to within an inch of the top.

4. Number 89 washed granite (or something similar, such as number 10 chicken grit). Use it to fill the remainder of the trench.

Lay the track on the roadbed, connect the rail joiners and, if necessary, solder jumper wires between the rail joints. Also connect any feeders or other track wiring. Finally, finish ballasting the track with more number 89 washed granite.

RESULTS

The pipe acts as a reservoir. It holds water runoff until the ground can absorb it. If you are able to drain the water from the pipe, so much the better. In that case, of course, you would have to provide a grade for the pipe.

My roadbed has endured four to five inches of rainfall within six hours. The track and ballast remained stable; it has yet to move. What's more, if you use this method, you may run all wiring along the track and simply cover it with ballast. No water will erode it because all the water runs off. Believe me, the system really works.