As you must realize, Douglas Cobweasel is really me, Doug Gardner, and the Timber Flats Railroad is my layout. And the rest of this article tells how I built my railtruck.

THE BEGINNING
I based my 1:24 scale model loosely on plans by Al Armitage appearing in the September/October 1989 Narrow Gauge and Shortline Gazette. I had already built a basswood frame and installed the wheels and mechanism on it before I ever came across the plans. As the frame was test running around the Christmas tree (riding on cast white metal wheels from Ozark Miniatures in the front and LGB spoked wheels in the rear), I happened on the back issue and noticed Al Armitage's frame matched my own almost exactly!

From that point, I used the Gazette drawings as a guide in designing my cab and truck bed. I drew patterns on scraps of cardboard, cut them out, and cobbled together something I found pleasing.

To spare you the aggravation of designing your own railtruck, OR's creative team of museum quality artists has scaled the dimensions off my model and presents the resulting plans as part of the article.

THE SUPERSTRUCTURE
I built up the actual cab piece by piece from various kinds of wood. The exterior and roof are basswood; the interior is mahogany with walnut veneer. I installed the more exotic woods to see how they would work out. So far, so good.

The motor detail, brakewheel, sanding lever, and coil box are from a 1:24 scale plastic telephone truck kit. I filled the hollow engine block with a mixture of epoxy glue and lead shotgun pellets. That adds weight over the power truck.

I padded the seat with the self-stick foam "servo-tape" radio control airplane modelers use for attaching receivers. Then I cut a piece of genuine fine grained leather and glued it to the foam.

I covered the cab roof with toilet paper and colored it with Polly S paint. The paint also acts as cement to hold it in place. I built the backup light from bits of styrene and the adjustment screw from nut/bolt/washer detail.

The windows are from the heavy butyrate sheet airplane modelers use for canopies. I installed the top of each side window at a different level to look as though somebody had "rolled it down". The window cranks are brass; I made their knobs from a drop of epoxy. I scored the "opera" side windows to appear cracked and frosted the breaks with superglue. I hinged the doors so they will operate.

I formed the bonnet and radiator from basswood and bits of styrene. Figure 1 shows how I built a tool to emboss louvers and rivets into .020-inch thick styrene sheet. I laid out, cut, and embossed all the details on a large sheet of styrene and, when I was satisfied, cut out each piece and laminated it onto the wood substructures. I find that much easier than working with small rectangles of plastic and it allows me to produce sharper detail.

The toolbox in front of the radiator is a white metal casting from Trackside Details. I use metal details wherever I can because the extra weight improves traction and helps to prevent derailments and keep the model on the rails. But remember to add only enough weight for reliable operation; excess weight shortens battery life and wears out the motor and gears.

The headlights came from that plastic telephone truck kit. I installed grain-of-wheat bulbs in the housings and the lights come on when the truck runs. The pilot turned out to be easier to build than it looks. I cut brass angle and rod to size, soldered it together, and attached it to the frame.

THE UNDERBODY
The truck has full underbody detail. I built most of it from bits of basswood or styrene and made no attempt to include every nut and bolt; I only wanted a busy appearance.

Wire rods under the truck representing brake and sand lines actually serve as electrical conduits to direct power from the "D" cell in the truck bed to the motor and headlights. Up front, a basswood toolbox covers the on-off switch. A brass rod extends up through the deck for easy access. The plan illustrates its position. I made a battery holder by screwing strips of brass to a stick of hardwood and gluing it to the deck. Then I "trimmed up" an LGB plastic barrel so it would slip over and disguise the battery.

All deck details are from Ozark Miniatures including the wonderful little hoist from their handcar/crane kit. It is just the right size and it adds valuable weight to an otherwise light rear section. I heavily weathered the deck boards with a wire brush, X-Acto knife, and coarse 50 grit sandpaper. I stained the board tops with a mixture of alcohol and India ink and the bottoms with full strength Floquil stains. The sideboards are removable.

The fenders are brass strip. I bent them to shape and soldered them to a pair of brackets.

I painted the truck body with Floquil Pullman Green and the bonnet with Testor's Gloss Red Enamel. I stained the frame with alcohol and India ink, then drybrushed it with Polly S Grimy Black.

PHILOSOPHY AND FURTHER READING
As you can see, Douglas Cobweasel's railtruck is nothing more than a motley collection of bits and pieces, glue, paint, and weathering. The plans were really unnecessary and the model was inexpensive. The real secret is a smooth running frame/motor/gear/wheel assembly. Test it, adjust it until it runs perfectly and, when you're satisfied, add a superstructure and some detail.

Keep inexpensive battery powered toys in mind as a source of viable, good quality mechanisms. For more information on battery powered vehicles you might want to consult Brian Clarke, Handy Hints, Volume 2: Building Simple Battery Locomotives, available from Saltford Models, 11 Penn Gardens, Bath, Avon BA1 3R2, U.K. and Peter Jones, Garden Railway Guides Number 2: Battery Locos, available from Railway Garden Ltd., 4210 Bridge Street, Unit 5, Cambria, CA 93428 (805)927-1194. Please mention Outdoor Railroader if you inquire about the books.