Interested? Here is what to do:

POLES AND WIRING

The first step is to select the proper type of power pole. Many are on the market. Plastic ones often appear toylike. Ken Prather of Echo Specialties [(503)862-2935-Ed.] offers telephone poles of outstanding appearance. They are redwood, of scale proportions, and come with a realistic "creosote" stain. Ken offers quantity discounts and technical advice. Since my layout is 1:22.5 scale, I chose 13 inch tall poles with a single 5 inch long cross arm and four insulators. Each pole comes with a five inch long metal spike for underground stability.

Space the poles between 34 and 40 inches apart on straight sections and between 12 and 28 inches apart on curves. Anchor each pole in 6 to 8 inches of cement. When the cement has set, you will be ready to string wire.

Use 18 to 22 gauge clear coated copper wire, the kind they use to rewind electrical motors. My layout uses 20 gauge wire. It lets me run between 3 and 4 amps, enough to power more than 70 LGB #5050/2 light bulbs and at least three switch machines. That part of the wiring consists of two lines on my poles and uses one pair of insulators. You may use the other two lines to double your AC output or to run DC power. DC could power any section of rail.

My layout has 42 poles and four continuous wires totalling 140 feet. I have experienced no voltage drop and I could extend the distance to about 250 feet with no significant power loss.

String the wires from pole to pole with no splices. You should buy wire in bulk and wind it onto four large diameter spools to prevent kinks (I used coffee cans). Lay the wire over each pole with about five pounds of tension. Attach each wire to the insulator, then string the next pole and attach the lines, and proceed around the layout. The result will look so realistic you'll wonder why you waited so long to start the project.

To attach wires to the insulators, wind a piece of 24 or 26 gauge wire clockwise about five times around the line in front of the insulator, then around the insulator, then another five times beyond the insulator. That will allow each line some free play but still hold it to the insulator. If you use insulators with pins, the wire should rest under the insulator, next to the pin as in Figure 3. That will prevent the wire from coming off the insulator.

Now you are ready to add lights, electrical switches, sound devices, or anything else you like. You may install them in seconds; what a convenience! Just solder your wires to the main power line and presto. Additional cross arms at 90-degree angles and plastic transformers (also available from Echo Specialties) help make the transition from power lines to accessories.

TIPS

When placing telephone or power poles, select areas toward the back of your layout or more remote locations. The reason is to minimize the possibility of people or animals tripping over your lines. You may always branch off the main line.

On curves, lay wires to the outside of the insulators. And, throughout the system, lay all wires on the same side of the insulators.

When you tap power off the line, remember to scrape the clear coating from the wires and to solder every connection.

For lines of 250 feet or more, use two transformers with matching volt and amp ratings. Place one at each end of the line. That will prevent electrical dropouts.

Once you have completed the project, you will find it is easy to deal with every electrical requirement of your layout.

FINANCIAL CONSIDERATIONS

How much will it cost? Functioning power lines may be the least expensive item on your entire layout. Mine cost $3.37 per foot. Here is how the cost of a 140 foot main power line breaks down:

40 telephone poles: $380.00
(Based on a minimum order of 50 poles from Echo Specialties)
10 plastic transformers: $45.00
2 telephone poles with 90-degree cross arms: $24.00
2 bags of cement: $4.00
725 feet of 20 gauge clear coated copper wire: $16.95
12 feet of 26 gauge bare copper wire (to tie to insulators): $1.50
TOTAL: $472.05