1. How many power leads do I need?
That depends on the size of the layout, the size of the rail, and the metal in the rail. Some metals conduct electricity better than others, and bigger rail, such as code 332, generally conducts electricity more easily than smaller rail, such as code 250.

To be more specific, on a small layout, say 15 by 30 feet, you would have about 90 feet of track. Under good conditions it would need only one set of leads (two wires, one connecting to each rail) as in Figure 1. "Good conditions" means no loose rail joiners or any dirt or oxidation to interfere with the flow of electricity. Rail joiners allow electricity and current to flow from one track section to the next. I suggest you solder jumpers between the rail joints for much better electrical continuity. [The February/March 1992 Outdoor Railroader has an article on the ways to solder jumpers between track sections.--Ed.]

I would also suggest one set of power leads, both the positive (+) and the negative (-), for every 100 feet of track.

2. Is conduit always necessary for underground wiring?
Where do you live? If your home is in an area where frost sets into the ground, then, yes, certainly, you should use conduit. Why? Frost and frost heave can destroy the insulation around electrical wire. In time, as Figure 2 illustrates, they will cut wires in half.

The solution is conduit, and installing it is so simple anybody can do it: Just run the wire though the conduit, dig a trench, and pull the wires back out.

How do you get the wire up above ground from out of the middle of a conduit? Use a threaded body conduit "tee". Figure 3 shows how it works. A gasket and cover protect the side. A strain relief fitting allows the wires to exit the "tee". If you use EMT (electro-metallic tubing) conduit, you should also use compression fittings at all joints to help keep water out of the conduit. In the winter, water will freeze and damage the wire.

Bending conduit is unnecessary. Your electrical supply store carries 45- and 90-degree "sweeps" (elbows). Use conduit with a diameter of at least 3/4-inch because you will find it easier to pull wire through.

When you cut conduit, remember to file off the burrs. Otherwise, it would be as though you left a razor blade inside; the burrs will cut through the insulation around the wires as you pull them through.

3. How do I wire a reverse loop?
First, if you are unsure how a reverse loop looks, Figure 4 shows one, and why you must use special wiring for it.

The wiring is really fairly simple. First install two sets of insulated rail joiners, one joiner on each rail, near the ends of the loop. The insulation lets you change the electrical polarity of part of the loop to avoid a short circuit when the train heads back in the opposite direction. Figure 5 shows where the joiners go.

The idea is to match the polarity of the loop with the main line. We do that manually, with a "double pole double throw" (DPDT) switch. When you flip the switch, you change the polarity. Figure 5 shows how to wire the switch and how to connect it to the track and to your power pack. Just follow the diagram as though it were a road map and your trains will work fine.

Keep one thing in mind: The part of the loop between the insulated rail joiners must be big enough to hold the longest train you plan to run. Otherwise, metal wheels will cause a short circuit where the polarity between the insulated joints changes.

4. How do I wire a wye?
A "wye" is a Y-shaped combination of track and turnouts. Railroads use them for reversing the direction of a locomotive or an entire train. The train runs in and backs out in the same way as you would make a three point turn in your automobile.

Wiring a wye is very similar to wiring a reverse loop. Figure 6 shows how. Again, just follow the drawing as though it were a road map.

Here is how to use the wye: Let's name the tracks as Figure 6 does. The track running from bottom center to upper right is the main line. The track running toward the top left corner is the stub.

If you run an engine along the main line from bottom to top, you would cross Turnouts 1 and 3, stop, then back it through Turnout 3 onto the stub. You would use the Main Line Power Reversing Switch, "A" (a DPDT), for that. The Stub Power Reversing Switch, "B" (another DPDT), must be in the correct position, with its polarity matching that of the main line, otherwise your engine will come to an abrupt halt just past the insulating rail joiners. Stop the engine on the stub and reverse the polarity of both "A" and "B". Throw the turnouts so the engine will head out the opposite direction through Turnouts 2 and 1. Run the engine down toward the bottom of the diagram. It then will be facing the opposite direction as it was originally.

5. How do I wire a turntable?
Turntables are even easier to wire than loops. Figure 7 shows what to do. The only "trick" in wiring a turntable is to use "slip rings" and "carbon brush pickups".

Carbon brush pickups are the same things as your caboose or passenger car uses to power its lights--those little spring-loaded nubs that rub against the backs of the metal wheels. Instead of running wires from the wheels to little light bulbs, we'll run wires from the brush pickups to the rails.

Slip rings are nothing more than a pair of metal rings, one inside the other, with insulation between them. You splice a wire into each approach track lead. Run each wire to the metal rings, soldering one wire to each ring. The brushes pick up current from the rings and send them to the rails on the turntable.

Why slip rings and brushes instead of running the wires directly to the turntable rails? Because the wire will twist and inhibit the turntable's operation.

You may turn the power on and off to the roundhouse storage tracks using independent double pole single throw (DPST) switches. The wiring is very straightforward, as Figure 7 illustrates.

6. How do I wire the lights inside my structures?
It is just the same as connecting the power leads to your first LGB oval of track. Run a wire from each "accessories" terminal of your power pack directly to the leads from the light bulb. Figure 8a has all the information you'll need. Why use the "accessories" terminal? Because it sends out power of constant voltage.

If you want to hook up more than one light, just splice in as many wires as you have bulbs. Figure 8b shows the right and wrong ways to connect the wires. The idea is to avoid running too many wires directly from the power pack. Use a fairly heavy gauge wire (I suggest Number 16 stranded) to minimize voltage drop over long distances.