BODY MODIFICATIONS

Converting the MDC hopper to a more precise 1:32 scale model is easy.

Step 1. Disassembly: Remove the trucks and wheels. Separate the hopper body from its frame by bowing down the underbody longitudinal brace slightly until one end tang pops out. A nice feature of MDC products is how all the parts snap together and need no glue.

Step 2. Cuts: You will have to make one cut at each end of the hopper body so the bottom of the coupler pocket will be flush with the bottom of the opening. The coupler pocket also happens to be the frame tang insert. Next you must shave down the frame by about 3/16-inch at each end. Trim enough to leave the frame end flush with the body end cuts. I used a table saw to make the long cut on the frame and used a razor saw for the shorter perpendicular cut. Set the frame back into the hopper body and check the fit. The two cut pieces should be flush. If not, trim them again.

Step 3. Body Assembly: Apply Polyzap cement to the frame where the vertical supports meet the body and press the parts together.

TRUCKS AND COUPLERS

Couplers: Kadee 820 couplers really help to bring the car to life. Assemble them according to Kadee's instructions. Use 5/8-inch long bolts through the center line holes in each draft gear box. If you are unable to find bolts with 4-40 or 2-56 threading, use the longer bolts Kadee provides and cut off the excess after you have installed the nuts. The nuts must be on the bottom of the draft gear box to let you adjust the coupler arm tension.

Note: The bolts hold the gear box together so do not mount the gear box to the frame. Instead glue the gear box to the frame with Polyzap. Lay a bead of glue down each leg of the cut frame and press the assembled gear box in place. Be as accurate as possible the first time because Polyzap sets on contact. If you have mounted the gear box correctly, its flange (the upward facing lip on the top front of the draft gear box) will sit about 3/64-inch ahead of the car body. Be sure to avoid mounting it flush with the end of the car or the couplers will be too close to the car body.

Trucks: As with other MDC cars, it is simple to modify the trucks. Just remove the wheels (by unscrewing the sideframes from the truck bolster), cut off the coupler tongue, then paint the trucks and wheels a more realistic color and reassemble them.

As they come, MDC Bettendorf trucks are about six inches too wide. If you want your trucks to look more accurate, you may want to narrow that width by cutting 3/32-inch from each end of the truck bolsters. Drill new holes through the bolsters with a 5/64-inch drill bit using the sideframe hole as a locator. Instead of using standard axle length wheelsets, use short axle wheelsets with 33-inch, One Scale wheels and washers. Finally, reassemble the trucks with 2-56 bolts, washers, and nuts.

Screw in the bolts from the bottom so the nuts sit on the top. Be careful to avoid making them too tight. Add a squirt of powdered graphite to the journal holes before assembly. Also check the wheelsets for binding. You should have just enough end play in the axles to let the wheelsets rotate freely. Mount the trucks to the car, and your hopper is ready to roll.

PARTS LIST

1 MDC 2 bay hopper
1 bag Kadee 820 Number One scale couplers
2 bags Gary Raymond One Scale 33-inch wheelsets, short axle (see text)
1 bag Gary Raymond 1/16-inch washers
4 ea. 2-56 or 4-40 x 5/8-inch bolts with nuts (for coupler gearbox)
4 ea. 2-56 by ˝-inch bolts with nuts and 8 washers (for truck modification)

TOOLS

Table saw
Razor saw
Polyzap adhesive
Powdered graphite
Small flat screwdriver
Small Phillips head screwdriver
Ruler
5/64-inch drill bit
Power drill
Small flat file
Pliers
Paints