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In-ko-pah RR: Another brick building

Started by Ray Dunakin, November 15, 2014, 09:11:25 PM

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Ray Dunakin

I'm finally been able to squeeze in a little modeling recently. My brick hardware store building turned out so well that I decided to do another brick building alongside it. I won't go into as much detail on this build, since it is similar to the previous one. You can see the step-by-step on my first brick building here:  http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2.html

This one will have a worn coat of paint over the bricks. It is loosely based on this general store (and former hotel) in Eureka, NV:




I got a little bit done on it back in August. At that time I managed to cut out the shape of the front wall, and scribe the brick pattern. This was a piece of 3mm Sintra PVC foam board. I laminated it to a base of 6mm Sintra, which had a brick pattern scribed onto part of it, for the recessed area. (BTW, I was able to scribe a lot of the brick pattern in the waiting room, while Cris was undergoing a medical procedure. It's the perfect kind of project for that.):




To create the multi-level trim along the top of the wall, I started by cutting out a 1mm thick piece, two bricks high, to match the shape of the wall, and glued it in place. Then I scribed bricks onto the lower course:




Another piece only one brick high was glued on top of the first one, and then scribed:




Next I cut a strip of 3mm thick Sintra, and glued it to the top of the wall, bending it to fit. This was done in sections -- first the left side, then the right side, then the arch across the middle:



I scribed the first layer, then added another, narrower layer:



Here it is after the top layer has been scribed. I've also added an intermediate layer 1mm thick, to the inside of the recessed area:




Next I used a hobby knife to carve some cracks and to distress some of the bricks:






Then I added the side walls and subfloor:




On the inside of each side wall, I added a small piece of 3mm Sintra, scribed with bricks. Below this I added a "shelf" of 6mm Sintra to support the roof:





The front and rear roof supports were cut from 6mm Sintra and glued in place:



One half of the roof added:



Part of the side wall will be visible, so it will have to be scribed with a brick pattern. Before doing so, I needed to smooth out the joint. I used an epoxy putty for this, called "Kwik Plastik". I only had a little left and it was getting old and lumpy, so I couldn't spread it very well:




After it sets, the putty is easily sanded smooth. I've started scribing the wall, but so far I only have the horizontal lines done:





Here's how the building looks so far. I have the roof on, and the removable rear wall. The rear wall is secured with screws for easy access to the interior. The interior details will be built into a box that can slide out the back:






When I test-fit the building on the foundation, I discovered that one corner of the roof needed to be trimmed to fit the cliff. I also had to chisel away some of the rock:






Another view of the building temporarily in place on the layout:









That's all for now, more later. Enjoy!

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Chuck Doan

I really enjoy seeing your carved brickwork Ray! That is a neat prototype too.

I hope your wife is doing better.
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

finescalerr

You've really nailed down that technique. Quite adequate. -- Russ

lab-dad

That is a really nice building in so many ways!
I would really like to try your technique someday if I ever get back to the bench.

-Marty

Mr Potato Head

That came out fantastic, you make the brick carving look so easy!
thanks for the SBS
mph
Gil Flores
In exile in Boise Idaho

Sami


Hydrostat

Interesting prototype. It's really astonishing how clean your carving looks like. Even the uncolored parts stand for their own. Very nice touch with the both cracks. I think you mentioned it before: What tool do you use for scribing?

Volker
I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.
I'll fly it. I'll make it.

The comprehensive book about my work: "Vollendete Baukunst"

Ray Dunakin

I've had some questions about how I use the double-bladed scribing tool that I made, so I drew up a simple diagram to illustrate it. The tool is held at an angle to the surface, and pressed down. Then drag it across the surface in the direction of the arrow. For clarity, I did not draw the metal ruler I use as a straightedge:




Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Hydrostat

Ray, thank you. Do you use the cuts' offset to guide one blade or do you always position the tool against the ruler?

Volker
I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.
I'll fly it. I'll make it.

The comprehensive book about my work: "Vollendete Baukunst"

Ray Dunakin

Quote from: Hydrostat on November 18, 2014, 04:01:49 AM
Ray, thank you. Do you use the cuts' offset to guide one blade or do you always position the tool against the ruler?

I do both. I use the previously scribed lines as a guide, but I also use a ruler or t-square to make sure I don't go "off-track".

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Juke Joint


lab-dad


Ray Dunakin

I soldered two .020" thick brass strips to a .125" square brass tube to make this tool. The square tube was slightly wider than I wanted, so I filed down the sides, near the end, before soldering on the strips.
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Ray Dunakin

Time for an update...

I built up the window and doors from various sizes of styrene strips. I work on a sheet of tempered glass, and use metal blocks to hold the pieces in place and keep the corners square. The large blocks are called "1-2-3 blocks". I don't remember what the 1" square angle block is called. I got these blocks from Amazon and they're really handy:






The bottom of the window frame is a solid panel. I was originally going to make it match the doors, then I decided to model it as if it had been crudely repaired with a pair of planks and small plywood sheet. It's a bit hard to see in the photo, but I scribed wood grain into the planks and sheet, including some small cracks, to represent weathered wood:




The two doors were built up in a similar manner. My history for this building is that it originally had one door, in the center, and two windows. Then at some point the interior was divided, and the window on the right was turned into a door. The original center door was replaced as well, and is now offset in the larger frame:



I have a more detailed step-by-step on constructing the window and doors only website if anyone wants to see it:   http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_3.html

With the window and doors completed, I added the brick trim to the top of the columns:





I also finished scribing the bricks on the side of the building, and added the trim along the top of the wall. Then I carved out some areas to look like bricks had crumbled or fallen out:





I'm now very close to finishing the exterior. All that's left is to add corrugated metal to the roof. Then I can move on to painting the structure. Here's how it looks so far, with the window and doors temporarily in place:








The lower half of the side wall is hidden, so I only needed to scribe bricks on the upper half:




That's all for now!

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

finescalerr