Since Russ asked about what I do, I'm posting a few ideas about laser cutting which might help conceptualize the tool, what can be done with it and how. Hopefully it will give you some ideas about possible ways to make model parts using a cutter, or a cutting service. There are a lot of variables to every laser cutting job, so I will just outline the basics.
A laser cutter uses a tightly focused beam of light to vaporize material. The light is reflected from a traveling armature onto the material so it can cut in a raster or vector mode. The standard beam is about .007" wide, but different lenses can be used to narrow it further. Tolerances are about .002" -- give or take depending on a bunch of factors.
Unlike most other CNC equipment, a laser cutter works off of graphics software, the same way as a computer printer. But instead of ink, it uses a laser beam to surface engrave material. It will also work in a vector mode, like a plotter printer, for cutting through material. It will cut a variety of materials, with limitations. Most cottage industry lasers won't cut metal. Plastic is iffy. It won't cut glass but it will engrave and score it. For cutting, its pretty much limited to organic materials like paper and wood, and acrylic (Plexiglas). Fortunately there are so many varieties of wood, paper and acrylic, the limit on materials is not a problem.
So, for model building purposes here are a few ways to conceptualize a laser cutter:
1) a robot micro router or engraver.
2) a robot micro scroll saw.
3) a photo-etching machine that works with wood and paper instead of metal.
Ultimately, the laser is a tool, and just like any other tool, it relies 100% on operator input to make anything useful with it. Garbage in = garbage out. So the most important part of the laser process is you. In order to get a good set of laser cut parts you need a good graphic, and above all, a good design. If you can only draw with pencil on paper, you can hire somebody to do the graphic for you. If you can provide a good design, clearly drawn out with exact measurements, you can have good parts made.
When designing parts for the laser, break down your finished piece into a set of flat parts. The best way to learn about how to do that is by building, or at least studying, the high quality paper model kits from Central and Eastern Europe. Those are superb demonstrations of breaking a 3d world into 2d parts, and then building it back into 3d. The advantage of the laser is, the parts will be pre-cut, with score lines or surface engraving as needed, plus you can reasonably go much, much smaller with the dimensions and complexity of the parts!
But its not all 2d. The laser has 3d capabilities, which are really more art than science, and definitely the least used and least understood of the machine's features. In 3d mode, the laser uses the greyscale in the graphic to change the power of the laser beam as it engraves. Black is 100% power, white is 0%. So in order to make a dome shape, your graphic would be a circle with white at the center, and a smooth transition to black on the outer edge. Results tend to be grainy, so a CNC router is often a superior tool for 3d cutting.
That pretty much sums up how the thing works. As I said before there are a whole lot of variables to it, material type, thickness, laser frequency, speed, power, dithering patternss, etc. I've had my laser for a few years now and still learning what it can do.
Dave
The most interesting part, then, is the gray area. That is apparently how you managed to design brick walls with three or more levels of "flat". Or wrenches with raised lettering and ridges. Excellent basic introduction. -- Russ
Russ, the brick texture is part of the 3d capability, and that is really an issue of graphic artistry using greyscales (I can't take any credit for that, BKLN drew it for me).
But creating raised letters inside an inset such as in the wrench handle is simple. Everything but the letters gets engraved. More than one depth can be cut in a single job. In color mapping mode, the laser interpets colors to apply different power settings and/or speeds. Higher power and or slower speed = deeper cut.
Thanks for the intro Dave. A place I worked at cut control markings from a two-layer plastic sign material using a nice laser. They are unbelievable cool.
I will be needing some eyebars cut for the small Phoenix bridge I am building. I hope my questions will assist others too.
Do you accept custom jobs?
Can I email a file?
Do you accept .dxf? Or what is your preferred format?
What color or layer name for the edge cuts i.e. through the material?
How should I define a light engraved mark (lower power) - with a different color or different layer?
What is the offset to account for kerf width?
What is your supply of acrylic or sign type plastic materials? Can I specify a thickness?
I know I'll have more questions later, such as about the gray scale cutting. It might look good for the bridge constructor plates. Thanks.
John
Hi John
I take custom jobs, bit too much to do at the moment. Files can be emailed. I do all my work in Adobe Illustrator, most lasers are optimized for Corel. Anything complex like CAD is a problem, at least for me, since I don't have the software to support it. I believe some laser operators work directly from CAD software.
An edge cut would be vectored. In the graphics software the laser interprets a "hairline" (as Corel calls it) or .001" or smaller stroke as a vector to trace. Any line .002" and up gets engraved. The standard lens cuts a .007" kerf so your offset would be +.0035" to compensate. Might be best to leave kerf compensation to the laser operator, as lenses vary.
Any area filled with black gets engraved. Or, for jobs with more than one different depth engraving you can fill with a different color and assign it a depth.
Regarding engraving depth, its not a mechanical system, so depth is achieved with power/speed settings on the material in question. Experience is helpful here.
My standard materials are very strong cardstock in .0145" and .01"
Birch plywood in .035" and .2"
Basswood in .04" and .1"
Plexi in .07"
What's an eyebar? :)
Dave
Thanks for all the information. I'll have to see what I can do about conversions. Maybe there is something in my software that converts to a vector file. I am interested in your special cardstock. I'll have to design something just to see what occurs. Or buy some of your stuff!
I put a .jpg of an eyebar set below. They are the tension members on a pin-connected bridge. Single thickness parts. They are made by heating an iron bar and "upsetting" the end to the diameter with the hole. There are tables in old books about how long to cut a piece of bar to get the ends just right after upsetting.
Thanks, keep up the information. How about some photos of the machine, the laser head and the unit in operation?
John
Hi John
Those parts look optimal for laser cutting, how thick do they need to be? If a piece doesn't need engraving and there aren't any fine details such as these, they can also be done in thin sheet styrene.
There are photos of the cutting lens and a short video showing the machine in operation here on the manufacturer's web site:
http://www.epiloglaser.com/laser_cutting.htm
Here is a link to one of their testimonials, Ben Animek who works in Z scale.
http://www.epiloglaser.com/cs_animek.htm
And here on Ben's website is a scan of a typical laser cutting graphic. He's using color mapping here to change the settings or cluster groups of cuts during the job. Looks like the graphic is shown in actual size.
http://animekmodels.com/images/MRoyal_plan.jpg
Dave
Great info and interesting thread. Thanks.
M
How thick can you go with styrene sheet? Is it possible to laser-cut thin brass?
My laser won't cut metal. It won't even cut the thin foil embossed on Christmas cards. The beam just reflects off it. Metal cutting can be done with an industrial laser, I've seen it used to make model parts but the edges tend to be relatively rough. It may be possible to use my laser to remove a layer of laquer, or similar resist, from sheet brass, then acid etch it to make photo etched parts. Its something I've been meaning to try but haven't gotten to.
On sheet styrene, I've cut up to .08" but the thicker the material, the less detail and sharpness I can achieve. Styrene is not really a good material to laser because the material doesn't fully vaporize. The edges tend to melt away from the beam, then the material flows back into the opening and "reheals" slightly as it cools. It also produces a slight lip at the cut. This problem increases with thickness and or complexity of the shape being cut. One solution is scoring the material, then the end user snaps the pieces from the sheet. Another is to use special type of styrene designed for laser cutting, unfortunately its not as rigid as the usual stuff and costs more. There are other ways to improve cut quality of styrene. I can produce very acceptable results in many cases. But a good laser operator will know when the limits have been reached and recommend other materials.
A good plastic substitute is acrylic (Plexiglas) its glass smooth, glues with liquid cement, and comes in a variety of thicknesses and colors. It cuts and engraves nicely as the material is almost completely vaporized by the laser. I can cut up to about .25" Plexi. Some fairly complicated shapes can be cut from it, but the material is very brittle, unlike sheet styrene.
Dave, how did you get into lasers and learn so much about them? You are like a professor. -- Russ
Hey Russ, I got into laser cutting because I figured it would be an awesome tool that I could use for my hobby, and also make enough commercially to pay for itself, so it would be win-win. That's the theory, but developing products and finding customers for them isn't nearly as easy as the laser sales brochure made it out to be! It is a very tough market. Subject for another thread someday.
Nearly all my information is covered in the instruction manual that comes with the machine. Most operators probably don't read much past the quick start guide. I wouldn't have, but I'm mostly working on the edge of the operating envelope where the default settings don't work well!
Please continue to push the envelope. Your laser work has transcended skill to become art and I find it immensely inspirational. I know a couple of other guys very skilled with lasers but they have not achieved your level.
Personally, I find my ability with a computer to be a little stronger than my manual skills. I also find I have more patience to deal with detail on the computer. So my ideal project would be something I could conceive and design in CAD, translate to laser cutting and 3-D printing, and assemble relatively simply by hand. That's why I find the threads on lasers and 3-D printing so amazing.
Finishing is another matter entirely. I used to love working with an airbrush, stains, washes, and textures (and despised cleaning up). But the potential for disaster always lurks and my own paranoia detracted a lot from my enjoyment. So I decided to see what I could do with an inkjet printer. Some things work well, others just don't. Paints, stains, dyes, chemicals, and pastels still seem to yield the best results. But I must speak to my therapist before tackling the next project.
I might point out that I'm finding the same inspiration and limitations in music. Computers and instrument samples are great ... up to a point. But you need to record a human playing one or more real instruments along with them to bring the music to life; otherwise it has a synthetic quality. It's exactly the same as modeling.
Please keep the information coming and post photos of your laser work.
Russ
I suspect we are creating a little of this concept here on the forum: http://www.emachineshop.com/ (http://www.emachineshop.com/)
We have discussions about CAD solid modeling, Print-A-Part rapid prototyping, Dave's advanced laser work, the resin casting thread, metal etching and so on. I wish we had a US based etcher that is positively modeler-friendly for small runs. We need more info on that.
Keep it up Dave, you will find your niche and sell to it.
John
Russ--
Totally agree. High tech has a place in any craft, as long as it does not become a case of the tail wagging the dog, where the craft becomes a lame excuse to use the tech.
One example I see over and over in our hobby is the misuse of fancy frilly fonts in signs. Just because I can use a computer to make loud, elaborate multi-colored store signs, or easily laser cut individual letters in a modern calligraphic font for a rooftop signboard, does not mean I should. Its not prototypical, I won't do it, as much as it appeals to the masses.
Your music analogy nailed an important issue regarding the unrealistic, synthetic quality of high tech. Computer software has an irritating tendency towards "perfection" built into it. For example, it is a very simple matter to line up a row of perfectly identical cobblestones, perfectly spaced, in a perfectly straight courses. The result is completely unconvincing and lifeless, as you said. When imperfection is desirable --and it so often is-- adding this human element to a graphic is painstaking because the software is always working against it. So, even in the virtual world, there is still no substitute for manual labor.
It really boils down to having respect for both the art form and the potential and/or limitations of the technology.
John--
If you post or email me the specs for the parts you posted above, and its something I can do with materials on hand, I'm willing to try to cut sample finished parts, as a SBS demo for the forum. They look pretty simple. No charge for samples.
Dave
Dave,
I am going to try to convert my CAD into a vector or other compatible file. Maybe that could be part of your class. If I can't I will send you a dimensioned drawing. They are very simple parts. For the small Phoenix bridge that uses the post in my resin thread I will need eight of the same eyebar, so it is perfect for laser work in plexi or styrene. I'll see what my software puts out and/or look for freeware.
I wonder if SketchUp converts somehow? I could draw it there.
Thanks, John
John, I can work from a .jpg or TIFF scan. Even the drawing you posted would be sufficient if I had the exact measurements. I just import it to Illustrator and trace. For something as simple as this, it only takes a couple of minutes. Thickness is the issue here, as I'm limited to stock material, or layers of it.
I know my TurboCAD converts to .jpg so I will draft what I need and send it your way maybe tonight. I'll figure out materials too. Thanks a bunch!
John
Dave, I sent you an email with files attached. One is a .svg (scalable vector graphic). Maybe Illustrator will open it.
Thanks, John
This is an excellent learning opportunity!
Please continue to share.
-Marty
I've gotten the files from John and will photograph the part making process for a SBS on the forum. Meanwhile here is a link to a laser kit maker in Germany, MBZ.
http://www.mbz-modellbahnzubehoer.de/produkte/index.htm
MBZ's line is an example of the superb realistic work that can be done with a laser commercially, when the domestic customer base isn't fixated on kitsch. All their surfaces are 3d engraved, in particular, check out the 3d engraving on the roof treatments.
http://www.fotos.mbz-modellbahnzubehoer.de/4_2/index.htm
Dave
And here is my attempt at 3d engraved shingles.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2Flucyroof2.jpg&hash=26da977515d2819c0deaf80b1513a936b744034d)
Here is the graphic I used to make them. The laser interprets greyscale to adjust the amount of power applied to the material. The darker the shade, the higher the power, the deeper the engrave depth. Notice I randomized a few shingles so it wouldn't look lifeless and computery.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2F3dSampleGraphic.jpg&hash=c69900563170e059c9b07da2b0e7cafa045e4b0e)
And here is a photo of the raw output. The laser leaves a grainy surface, I sanded it down a little. Then brush paint, followed by an oil wash and finished off with an airbrush dusting of a second grey color.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2F3doutput.jpg&hash=76f9ec699a29f165ca02a28a82ae5e587eb4def8)
Does the time required to add texture add significantly to pricing? A friend who does laser work charges by the minute and says cutting bricks or doing other things where the laser makes a lot of passes is "not cost effective". He charges immense rates for such work. -- Russ
Russ, yes, 3d engraving is ponderous and since parts are priced according to machine time, it adds significantly to the cost. I've wondered how MBZ are able to do this cost effectively. For one thing MBZ kits aren't cheap, and for another they have a customer base in Germany willing to pay for accurate, realistic scale models. So I suppose they can sell enough of these machine-time-intensive kits and parts to invest in additional machines and have them running simultaneously. 2 machines make parts twice as fast as one. I don't think the American market could support an economy of scale like that, for realistic kits of that calibre.
I've seen enough automated process assembly lines to say that one could set up a laser with a moving line through it. You could load a stack of material and let it run continuously except for material movement. Maybe MBZ does it, maybe not. I did see a large-ish arch bridge for over 900 Euros in 1:48 so the comment about customers willing to pay for the best seems correct.
Dave, your roofing is exquisite. The rough texture is perfect for typical shingles. A weathered blend of colors and streaking due to rain would bring it out more. And thanks for posting the art for the roof. That makes the partial laser power use clear. It must have taken a while to process even that size though.
John
Found this link this morning - reciprocating laser cutter (http://builders.reprap.org/2010/08/selective-laser-sintering-part-8.html) - interesting read. Heck the responses are too. It's always fun to read intelligent responses .. :)
Quote from: DaKra on August 25, 2010, 08:40:50 AM
Notice I randomized a few shingles so it wouldn't look lifeless and computery.
Indeed, that's where art meets science! (Hello, Science, my name is Art) :D
Those artistic touches add greatly to your work ... just made a plug for your gears on another forum. Looking forward to ordering more of your goodies.
Meanwhile, glad to see you're so keenly aware that there are times when "perfect" looks fake! The gray-scale cutting seems to work very nicely too.
Cheers,
Dallas
Hey Dallas, thanks for the plug. Until I'm ready to invest in magazine adverts, I depend mostly on word of mouth advertising. And you are right about perfection being imperfect. Perfect imperfection is what we're after! :)
Today I cut the bridge parts for John P. It was a pretty straightforward job, so its a good demo of the process. I'm sorry the plot isn't very suspenseful.
First John sent me some files, which my computer could not read. That is totally typical. I use 2d graphic arts software. Anything that originated from CAD makes my computer burp. John's second try worked OK (mystery to me). He included a really good diagram of the part, with measurements. Which is a great for checking the finished work. If necessary I could work from that alone, or a even a pencil sketch with the dimensions.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FBridgePartsJohn%2FJohnDiagram.jpg&hash=c23f623c95b4c25ace9f079faffe7126cd9cd173)
But since John's drawings were in a vector format, I had very little set up work. I made sure the vector graphic matched the measurements supplied, and checked the kerf offset was "about" right. (I say "about" because a laser beam is conical, so the part will be a little wider at the bottom than the top. Its a very slight difference bottom to top, but it is a factor.) Then I sent his file to the laser and loaded the material.
In this case we decided on Plexiglas because it was about the right thickness and has a smooth surface. I chose black plexi for John's parts. Better than clear because if a bright light strikes the finished part, it won't shine through and spoil the illusion of solid metal.
Then I pressed "go" and just stood around making sure the stuff doesn't catch fire. That's always a risk, especially with plexi. It has a nasty reputation of igniting during a moment's inattention! I've never actually witnessed it, but I have seen photos of completely burned out machines. The machine should never be operated unattended.
Here is a photo of the machine doing its work. I'd like to be able to say the weird colored orbs are sparks thrown off by the laser, but they are actually just reflections of Christmas lights I keep strung up in my workspace.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FBridgePartsJohn%2Fworking1.jpg&hash=af9f6e3ae30c13071e5425a19d0f2adc069b2b78)
Another action photo. Notice there is no visible smoke. That's because a blower exhausts the smoke to the exterior.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FBridgePartsJohn%2Fworking.jpg&hash=e2a59bebc68d12e046eb8c526f2770e2ff444508)
Finished parts. Paper is still on the plexi. For a simple part its better to keep the paper on, as it protects from smoke stain on the front, and "reflection" on the back. Reflection is when the laser beam reflects off the table grid, and causes annoying little tic marks on the rear of the material, especially if the power is set too high. The paper will absorb this excess energy. For more complicated parts, I remove the paper, so it does not become a nuisance to pick little pieces off.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FBridgePartsJohn%2Ffinished.jpg&hash=0927c518a4f4826ecef5830ebe91e8ec70cf7ec2)
Last picture of a finished piece removed. Note the fine sawtooth pattern on the edge (exaggerated here due to the reflection off the shiny black plexi). The laser does not fire in a continuous mode, rather it fires in rapid pulses. In effect its shooting .007" holes through the material, close enough together to form a continuous cut, and that's what you see here. Unfortunately it leaves the end user with some clean up work. This is really only a problem with thicker materials, and especially plastics as they tend to liquefy around the beam in a sort of ripple effect. I'm told its possible to polish the sawtooth pattern out of plexi with something called a "flame polisher" but I'm way more comfortable with a file and putty!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FBridgePartsJohn%2Fedgefinish.jpg&hash=87c9f6551d3276ec160ef328b86dee94ccb816b8)
Finally the parts get packed up and go in the mail, and then its all up to John to build a stunning model bridge!
This presents still more critical information for us to absorb and illustrates the abilities and limitations of laser cutting. Very useful, even for those of us with some experience in this arcane science. -- Russ
I didn't really mention the economics, but its really one of the great advantages of the laser. This custom job for John cost under $20. The files were ready to print (computer burp notwithstanding) so there was very little set up involved. The material cost a couple of bucks. The fee reflects mostly machine time, but this was a quick job for the machine to process.
The ideal machine to make these parts would be a vertical mill. A machinist could make these parts from plexi or stainless steel, or whatever. They would be absolute perfection, but the price would be considerably higher. Maybe astronomical. So we have a nice compromise with laser cut parts.
Another nice thing about the economics of the laser is, if there was an error in the design or execution, its not a big deal to make a correction to the graphic and sent it back to the machine.
With a photo etched part, there is a whole layer of process between drawing and etching, so a lot of work ends up in the bin if an alteration needs to be made. Not so with the laser.
Finally, while I am comparing etching to lasering, the laser can cut thicker sheet material much more efficiently than photo etching. There is a certain grey area in photo etching where the parts are a little too thin to be realistic, or the cost to etch thick material is too high to be effective, and that's where a laser starts to become a good alternative. This is around .01" and up. I've found the .0145" card material I use to be totally ideal for my applications, just as good as brass and sometimes better because it accepts glues and paints beautifully.
None of this is meant to imply the laser is superior to machining or etching. That is absolutely not the case. There are no substitutes for those methods. But for every application there is an ideal tool and the laser is ideal for a whole bunch of applications.
Yeah my parts! Now I have to scratchbuild the rest of the bridge.
My TurboCAD program can convert to the .svg Scalable Vector Graphics format (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scalable_Vector_Graphics). That is how Dave saved time with the set-up; his system uses that file type. I had to send the files one at a time so they were not compressed, which solved the initial problem. I always try to supply my suppliers (laser, etch) with translation-free files.
The laser works great for many application in modeling. Small quantities of 2-D parts that can be made from wood or plexi are very affordable I have found. Etching is very expensive per part if the quantities are low due to the set up time, and it remains costly otherwise. Same with machining. And Dave's skills with the variable laser power can produce parts that cannot be done by etching. Those shingles would probably need to be made using EDM, which means you might as well make a mold and injection mold copies, or at least use one for a resin master.
John
Dave, this is really an interesting and very informative thread. It gave me a lot of hints about how to prepare the files for an optimal cutting job (as well as it proves your will and capacity to handle this kind of custom work).
So, let me summarize and check I've correctly understood :
You can work from pdf files.
Black lines tell the laser to cut at full power and through the material.
Grey lines will allow the laser to cut less deeply. I suppose we could use it to make the stones around a window.
You can cut parts about 0.015" thick, which is a little less than 0.4mm.
Hi Frederic
I've worked from .pdf files, that's about all I can say for sure. Adobe Illustrator or Corel are optimal, anything else and ... I only know for sure when I try to open it!
I'm up early so here's a chart I drew up with basics of graphics for laser cutting. I hope it clarifies things.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FLaserGraphicBasics.jpg&hash=a88836c073f600fef855ce6c9cad23fcd9f41928)
Thanks Dave. I'll make sure my French friends have an access to this topic and your site so as to be aware of your beautiful work.
Dave, I have saved your chart for future reference. I use AutoCad and sometimes help people create artwork for laser cutting. I can save an AutoCad drawing as a PDF, open it in Photoshop, and assign areas of grayscale. I then can re-save as a PDF or as some other Adobe formats. I suspect at least one would be ideal for your laser cutter.
Guys, I don't have unlimited time but on occasion I might be able to help some of you out. I suspect others here could, too.
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on August 30, 2010, 12:29:14 PM
Guys, I don't have unlimited time but on occasion I might be able to help some of you out. I suspect others here could, too.
Russ
Yes, I can if anyone needs help with PDF, CAD or pretty much any computer graphic file. I too don't have unlimited time but will be happy to help. Just PM or email me and we'll take it from there. And I'm not nearly as difficult to deal with as popular myth may suggest... ;)
Paul
Are too! -- ssuR
There's a thread on the mrrforums.com titled "Testing the water - a community laser cutter (http://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5378)"
In response to questions about how to submit a graphic for lasering, Dave supplied a link back to this thread.
I continued to read through the thread and while it had some great information I was dismayed at the cost for the software needed to produce the graphics. Darn! (what can I say .. I'm cheap)
Anyhoo. I had fun re-reading this thread. What fun .. JohnP on the second page says .. "I wonder if Sketchup converts somehow? I could draw there" (hmm says I .. me too)
John ends up sending an uncompressed .svg file from TubroCAD which Dave used to cut the bridge parts that John needed. Cool.
So. I jumped back to the mmrforms.com thread .. wanted to double-check what software would work .. checked out the TurboCAD website .. and then re-read the post by rslaserkits (rich) .. where he says .. "I do even have a program that will open and convert Google Sketchup files into Corel Draw. "
That took me to Google .. and .. WOAH!!
Found a plug-in that converts from Sketchup to .SVG !!!!
sketchup-svg-outline-plugin (http://code.google.com/p/sketchup-svg-outline-plugin/)
I downloaded the plugin and grabbed a gear for a quick test. Here's the Export Screen from the plugin .. note that you can set colors for the lines and line width
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi856.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab130%2FLCRRinHO%2FGeneral%2520Photos%2FExportPage.jpg&hash=7a9af43088917abcf8d70ac68af3684918b78343)
I then loaded that exported .svg file into Inkscape.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi856.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab130%2FLCRRinHO%2FGeneral%2520Photos%2FGraphics.jpg&hash=21d4679e0c57c648ece52f6a826fd8df11d65c76)
What do you guys think?
I need one that goes the other way: Draw it in 2-D and it extrudes it automatically into 3-D! -- Russ
Ahh. But that's what Sketchup does! You draw a shape in 2D .. 'wave' the "Pull Tool" over it and ... presto .. it magically extrudes that 2D shape into 3D!
2d, 3d whatever. :)
In some ways, the 2d drawing is better as it forces the designer to think in terms of flat planes, which is what kit parts end up as anyway. For geometry of complex parts, like an octagonal roof, 3d would be a big help. Apparently a plug in like Ed's would be able to break it down into flat planes again.
Ed if you're up to it, I'd be interested in seeing if/how that would work.
Dave
Dave, sent you an email so I can my ducks lined up first!