I will start this out with these four photos of the prototype
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's my start on the frame.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, Wow!!! another build.....do you ever sleep ;) looking forward to seeing this one come together. Craig
Okay, don't encourage him. He's just showing off. -- ssuR
Gordon,
Beautiful start!
Boy, the way you and Marty have taken off with these builds makes me feel slow :-[.
I started mine almost a year ago and still have a way to go :(.
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Rick
Gordon
By the time I think of doing something your done and moving on to the build.
I hope your retired because if your not when do you sleep???
But anyway just what we all expected another great start.
Jerry
Wow, off to a great start already -- you sure work fast.
I can't wait to see the transmissions. This will be good.
John
Holy crap...this one should be some real fun to watch come together...beautiful (only a modellers eye would truely think this ;D) prototype to start with Gordon.
Dan
Thanks guys for your comments. The Fordson tractor thread for this shovel starts on page six on my Monorail locomotive thread .
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=874.0
Here's a site on some tractors.
http://home.gwi.net/~dclough/catgas.html
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
Lots of underbody details I did not know about.
How do you do the neat, crisp, clean 45 degree bends?
the usual hot water and bend?
Not having good luck with .010" x .100"............
-Marty
Great stuff Gordon. Like the precise rivet work particularly.
Marty, I just did a cold bend on my strapping work, but I'm working with a 030" x 188" piece of styrene. The 010" x 100" styrene is just to small to work with without having problems. It's the same deal as the tension rods on the boom. I would go with brass but then the brass is harder to glue. Your 1:48 scale stuff is wonderful, but I think that the large scale bug needs to bite you a little harder.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
If you want a model with a lot of impact, large scale (usually 1:24 and above) allows for a greater degree of perfection. The trade off is that the big models take up a lot of space and storage becomes a BIG problem. Ask me how I know .... -- Russ
Oh trust me I love large scale! It is so much more fun!
I thought about doing mine in 1/16 but when I found out you were doing one, I figured I would just do the hard one and let you and Gil do the bigger ones ;) ;) ;)
My cheater treads came yesterday so hopefully this weekend will have some promise of progress!
-Marty
Quote from: chester on October 15, 2010, 05:05:59 PM
Great stuff Gordon. Like the precise rivet work particularly.
Yeah Chester I was going to count them but I fell asleep half way through!!!!
Jerry
Nice start Gordon. Will you be doing the "crusty rusty" finish as in the prototype?
Don
Yikes......this is going to be one butt-ugly piece of machinery.
Can't wait for the next update.
(it IS astounding how quickly you create this wonderful stuff, Gordon. Very impressive)
Thanks guys for your comments. Don not "crusty rusty" I think I will go with White.
Here's two more photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
It looks good even without paint. -- Russ
Amazing progress Gordon.
What are you using for rivets?
Ray, if you Google in Grandt Line and go to there augmentables you will find all there nut bolts and rivet castings. The rivets come in three sizes, 032", 043", and 063". I mostly use the 063" and on this model I am Also using a lot of there #128 nut-bolt castings. Grandt Line is very easy to deal with I just give them a call on the phone with the part numbers I want and a few days later the parts will be in my mail box. Russ Simpson also has some good nut-bolt and rivets castings. if you can find them. Russ past away last year and I hope some one will take over his line of products.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I just order 60 more pack from grandt Line and here's a photo of the order I got last March. Atlas track nails #2540 and Ozark Miniatures copper rivets # OM09 are also good if you want to drill the holes for them.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Fastenating.
Chester
(corner bound)
Thanks, Gordon!
The way you arrange simple shapes into beautifully complex parts is astounding, Gordon.
Fun to look at, too.
Ozark copper rivets? I looked thru their catalog and see no such beast. Can you tell us a bit more about the Ozark copper rivets?
Thanks,
Paul
Here's a good source for miniature rivets (http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10)
I used the .7mm brass rivets on a On18 critter I'm working on ..
Hi Ed
Thanks great link - had trouble with the one in the post - always nice to find miniature bolt and rivet suppliers.
http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10?zenid=f4fe73a576c0fb03df91bd41cce782fe (http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10?zenid=f4fe73a576c0fb03df91bd41cce782fe)
thx Ferd
Fixed the link. Dang it. This forum gets me everything .. the url link isn't in quotes. In every other forum it is. Not that biggie .. but I need to remember to check that before posting.
Paul, they probably have discontinued them for one reason or another. The Scalehardware stuff is way too pricey for my pocketbook but next time I deal with Ozark I will find out what's up with there copper rivet.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
FWIW, I contacted Ozark and they replied saying they had no idea what I was talking about! I know Ozark changed owners, maybe the rivets are from long ago and didn't carry over to the new owners.
THe Scale Hardware stuff is great, but to $ for me as I will need many 100's.
Paul
Thanks Paul it was many years ago that I got the ones I have. They had nice round heads on them and were around .050" in diameter, and only 1.50 for 50. I may be able to get hold of the old owner. I will look and see if can find an old email.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
try this one http://www.scalehardware.com/sim_square_nuts.htm (http://www.scalehardware.com/sim_square_nuts.htm) and go to rivets
Jacq
Here's three photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, Excellent ;) wish i had your motivation :) you get one project done and start right on another. Craig H
Wow! That is really looking great.
Tired of drilling rivet holes yet? Have you figured out a shortcut? -- Russ
Wow I have spots before my eyes!!!!
Excellent Gordon you must have the patience of a saint.
Jerry
That thing must be HUGE!!!!!!!!
I know I dont have half the rivets he has (or half the sanity...)
The grearbox and differential look good, looks like you used funnels for the axle housings?
-Marty
Thanks guys
Russ, I have a great shortcut no need to drill holes for the rivets. I just cut the heads off flush and glue them on.
Marty, the funnel shape things are lamp shades from Plastruct part# LF-10. The lamp shades come in four sizes.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
What a terrific creation, Gordon.
Another masterpiece........
I received my order from Serv-o-link on Friday. On the left is a good assortment of sprockets and 11 feet of chain. On the right are two of each size of there fine gears. On the bottom are four different sizes of there course gears. All of the fine gears are two scale inches wide and the course gears are three scale inches wide. I will be using the two inch gears on this project. The other photo is showing a close up of each type.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I didn't realize they made gears too. You must be a favorite customer!
Wow...my head hurts thinking about those rivets...
Adding rivet and nut-bolt detail is really quite therapeutic.
Here's the road wheels and return rollers for the continuous tracks. There are six pairs of road wheels on the bottom and two pairs of return rollers on the top. Both are the same size. I used 030" styrene 5/8" diameter disk for the center. I added a thin slice of 5/8" diameter plastic tube to each side. After the three parts are glued together I drilled the four 1/16" holes in the centers. The axles are 040" brass wire (I'm not going to use the styrene nut-bolt castings I have holding on the wheels on the top assembly in the photo). A small 00-90 washer will form the hub. I will add these after they are painted and the ends on the track frame are assembled.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's some measurements for the shovel for Gil and Marty. Some of the measurements have been rounded off to even things up.
Frame
(2) Side H Beam 6" w 8" h x 11'0" long
(2) End C Beam 3" w 8" h x 3'8" (Note on the prototype the measurement is 2 w 8 h x 3'7" long)
(2) Gusset frame corner top-rear 12" x 10"
(2) Gusset frame corner bottom rear 12" x 6"
(2) Track Outrigger Beans 6" w 6" h x 7'6" long. From the front of the front end beam to center of the outrigger beams (front beam) 1'4" (rear beam) 6'6"
(4) Gusset outrigger-frame 1'6" w x 1'8" long
(4) Angle Gusset on outside side-end beams 3" x 3" x 6" long
(1) Angle for Motor mount 3" x 3" x 3'8" long
(1) Center Brace 4'3" from front of front end beam to the back of the assembly. (2) Angle 3" x 3" x 3'8' long with (1) Gusset 13" x 22"
For the X braces on the bottom use 3" or 4" flat bar
For straps over the outriggers use 3" flat bar
I added two small brackets out of 5/32" angel 6" long
Diagonal Frame with leg
(2) Butterfly Brace 4" x 12" (frame) to main beam
(2) Main Beam 4" w 5" h x 9'5" long
(1) Gusset 2'8" 5'1" main beam to main beam
(2) Gusset 1'4" x 1'4" main beam to leg
(2) Leg 4" w 5" h x 4'1" long
(1) Top Brace 6" flat bar.
for the X brace use 2" flat bar.
Angle connectors 4" x 8" on the front side 8" long, on the back side 5" long for the (frame) to leg
Turret 4'0" diameter x 5" h
Turret A Frame
(2) main C 3" x 7" 4'10" (space apart out-side to out-side. 2'4" at the bottom and 1'4" at the top)
For the X braces use 2" flat bar.
Main Boom
(2) Sides C Beam 3" w 8" h x 15'2" between pulleys.
(1) Gusset top 12" w 6'0" long.
(1) Gusset bottom 12" w 4'0" long.
Pivot point for roller-pulley assembly 8'6" from bottom pulley.
Bucket Arm
(2) side C Beam 2" w 5" h x 11'0" total width is 6".
Bucket at front is around 2'1" w x 2'3" h and 2'3" deep.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks for posting those dimensions. I've saved them in case I decide to try building one myself someday.
Thanks Gordon!
At this point I don't want to know if I screwed up!......
-Marty
The links for the tracks are made out of styrene. The hinges are made out of two links of Tamiya ladder-chain and sprocket set (#840 item 70142). If I would have made the links 1/32" shorter the chain could have been hooked continuously.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
Very, very creative use of materials on those tracks.
QuoteIf I would have made the links 1/32" shorter the chain could have been hooked continuously.
Isn't hindsight wonderful???
Beautiful job on creating this project from pictures, thanks for sharing it.
Rick
Always a pleasure to see updates on this project!
So, Gordon, have you been doing any modeling lately? -- ssuR
To get the slack out of the tracks I will shorten one of the links on the bottom where it's not too noticeable. You can't win them all.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Bitchin'!!
Really cool to see a project we are both working on from different views.
Would be amazing to get them together........... ???..........
The tracks look fantastic!
Are you really considering white for the final color?
-Marty
You know that part of the movie where you suddenly realize the mild-mannered
main character is totally insane? That's where this thread is right now.
Gordon, the wheels and tracks on this thing are the most astounding pieces of scratchbuilding ever.
Congraulations. I can't wait to see what's next.
Of course you would come up with a way to solve the track problem! :o Very cool, you have made it a lot easier for me! ::)
Thanks
Great job!
Gil
Thanks Guys for your comments. Marty I was thinking of painting the shovel Mary Kay Pink but I can't find it in a rattle can. So I will be going with the white with maybe some red parts. I had all of the drive wheels painted red and was ready to paint the track frames red but it was too much for me and I repainted them white. This model will be part of my Red X Mining Company, and may be part of my monorail diorama.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That will be one hell of a diorama.... can't wait to see that.
This showed up on another Forum this morning.
Not the best picture in the world, but it's a nifty
variation of Gordon's Power Shovel:
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Oh man!
Further proof that people in "the real world" don't know how to make plausible kitbashes! ;D
What the ---? How the ---? Who the --- thought of that?
Far out!
Dallas
well,
necessity may be the mother of invention but the working man is the father of "make do". You will find this especially true in the old time logging world especially with the Gyppo loggers. Use a machine until it is completely worn out then convert it to some other use and keep using it. Somewhere I have seen a very similar picture of a crane boom and an old truck.
Rick
Thanks, Ken for the great photo. Here's Two photos of the left side of the gear box.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That looks so great!
Not that great; real engine blocks are made of metal, not wood. -- ssuR (heading for the corner)
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
Most excellent!
I like the beginning colors on the treads too!
I was looking forward to seeing the shafts/pulleys/gears on the turret!
I love it!
-Marty
The thread is a treat to watch . Amazing work !
Terry
Beautifully intricate.
Just perfect!!
Jerry
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fclapping%2F2.gif&hash=3e2f1b19290666b3370ccb1dd3fa22eb0ef09c68)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fcheering%2F7.gif&hash=e5cd904ee484feaf9fb2f7fbd9431d07d6277787)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fexcited%2F3.gif&hash=ce93e651e4456828052bc39e9d808f2917016c68)
Thanks guys, Here's a site with some photos of the shovel and some other neat stuff.
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/578555182qyZIqG
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on November 19, 2010, 05:16:15 PM
Somewhere I have seen a very similar picture of a crane boom and an old truck.
Rick
This One?
Yea, there you go.
I never could figure out the purpose of that horizontal drive shaft across the A-frame above the guys head. There looks to be a cable/line attached to it like it was being used for a winding drum but in that case it seems like it would tweek the U-joint causing a bind, also just can't make out in the picture how it would be driven.
Any ideas?
Thanks for the picture.
Rick
OOOPPPS,
I'm embarassed, I signed on to this thread to compliment Gordon on his beautiful build, but when I saw the truck picture I completely spaced it. Sorry Gordon.
Gordon, spectacular work, I can really appreciate the time and effort involved in the design and fitment of the A-frame turret area.
Rick
Thanks Rick and Marc thanks for posting the photo.
Here's a sites showing the shovel in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZ6Z-OfoOnA&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZ6Z-OfoOnA&feature=related
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
The dipper, dipper stick and boom is finished and painted. I'm going back to the tractor to do some work.
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Trying to figure out how the tractor's controls work.
(1) where is the clutch pedal located
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, Your build has been a great resource. I'm slowly working on a steam shovel in card stock and your photos have added a lot of clarity to my understanding of their operation.
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The stock clutch pedal is just above the pulley as seen here. They must have set up some kind of linkage to where the operator now sits.
Or maybe not...look at the beginning of this video of a similar machine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb_FdBus5YI&feature=related
Thanks Chuck. I will locate the pedal to the right of the controls
Tamiya 1:12 scale Honda RC166 Metal Chain Set Part # 12633 $58.00. There are 50 links . A clever jig is included to aid assembly.
In 1:16 scale
4", 9", and 10" sprockets
Chain
1 1/4" wide
The links are 1 1/2" long.
The rollers are around 1/2" long.
The pins are around 1 1/2" long
In 1:32 scale
8", 18", and 20" sprockets
Chain
2 1/2" wide
The links are 3" long
The rollers are around 1" long
The pins are around 3" long
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's two photos of the right side of the gear box.
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I still need to add the brake on the main drum before painting. I will add the seat and the protective covers after painting.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That is really coming along nicely! It's so detailed and intricate, it almost looks operable.
Painting Steps so far on the dipper and dipper stick.
1: Coat of Floquil Engine Black from a rattel-can and let dry. (heavy cover)
2: Coat of Floquil Reefer White from a rattel-can and let dry. (medium Cover)
(Floquil bottle and can paint are different.)
3: Dust with real rust.
4: A good covering of Dullcote and let dry.
5: Oil pin washes. (Raw Umber with Oder-less Turpenoid)
6: Coat of Dullcote
For the wear on the the dipper stick I used Bragdon power and alcohol after step 4 was compleated.
For the weld joints on the dipper or bucket I used styrene quarter round and on the stick I used styrene rod. After the joint materal was in place on the model I soften with liquid plastic cement. After the styrene was soft I used the back side of a # 11 X-acto blade to add the ridges.
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The dipper or bucket with all six painting steps compleated.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I'll be danged ... painting it white, and it looks REAL, real good! Thoroughly enjoying the entire build and seeing it enter the final stages. Thanks for all your efforts to illustrate and describe the build.
Cheers,
Dallas
Very nice!
Love the coloring.
The SBS is good info as well, thanks for sharing.
Looking forward to seeing the whole thing.
-Marty
Here's some pics of the painted turret.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Continuing to be excellent. All that clustered detail looks great.
That long drive chain looks really great. Come to think of it so does everything else. -- Russ
Beautiful!!!!
Jerry
Sweet!
Really amazing work Gordon!
agree and yep... dang nice! a true master!
The cable is 40 LB. nylon lead loaded deep trolling line. To paint the line I pulled it through a paint soaked cloth. I used styrene to make up the chain-guard, seat and seat cover.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Not bad. -- Russ
This build is almost finished. All I need is to add the chain on the power-take-off.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Most adequate ... so far. -- Russ
Incredible!
Another piece showing your gifted touch Gordon. Beautiful.
Hey Gordon,
Ya done good!
Rick
Gordon
Beautiful work!!!
Jerry
Really impressive and fascinating model! Thanks again for the SBS photos and all the tips along the way. -- Dallas
The model itself is amazing, because there is no place to hide errors or to take shortcuts. But the neutral white paint and the weathering really bring out all the details. Wonderful work!
Christian
I agree with all of the above. A lot of solitary hours at the bench paying off in a fine model.
You might consider a shot with your hand in it or something so we can see how big this is.
Congrats Gordon!...another beautiful piece of scratchbuilding. Was, as always, a great pleasure to watch this build.
Marc
Yet another staggeringly brilliant piece of work Gordon... thanks for sharing it with us.
Paul
Thanks guys for your comments.This was a very fun project and I learned a lot. I did get in a little bit of a hurry on the tractor with some of the detail. After I had the first two radiators painted I realized that I forgot to add the nuts and bolts on the flanges. The monorail tractor will be the same, but I will try to go in to more detail on the two remaining tractors.
Chuck, I am thinking about setting up some photos on my diorama this may help with the size.
The overall length is 18" long.
The tracks are 7 1/2" long 5 1/2" from out-side to out-side
The frame is 9 1/2" long
Top of the boom is 9 1/2"
Top of the mast is 7 1/2"
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, I have always been very impressed by the way you start from relatively simple shapes and assemble them to get the most realistic complex parts. This is a pleasure for the eye, and an incentive to other modellers to do their best. Many thanks for sharing this.
Of course, the final painting and weathering are very nice too.
Here's two photos with the shovel sitting on my diorama.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That turned out rather well. -- Russ
Thanks for bringing us this terrific build Gordon.
Like.
Imagine the horror seeing that behemoth pulling up to that station?!
As always a great build!
-Marty
Hell of a build!!!!
Jerry
Stunning!
Gordon, as always I learned several things from your builds. Fantastic results. Thanks Pat
Beautiful work Gordon.
I'm always amazed at how good your white finishes turn out. I'm too chicken to attempt one.
Wonderful.
Eric, this forum is full of plastic painting wizards. It's a great luck for us to be able to talk directly to them.
Quote from: lab-dad on March 22, 2011, 08:21:04 AM
Imagine the horror seeing that behemoth pulling up to that station?!
As always a great build!
-Marty
yes! Please send to Irvington KY! ;D
Well now,
that did come out nice.
The white finish is really eye catching and pleasing.
Good job
Rick
Hello Gordon, As always from you, interesting prototype and an outstanding build!!!!!
Very impressive!!!
Randy
Here's four photos of another shovel. I found the shovel at Interstate Brick Co near S.L.C. Utah. It has a McCormick Deering power plant.
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http://travelinutah.wordpress.com/2012/11/06/history-of-the-brickyard/
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Nice. Looks to be in better shape than the two Fordson shovels in Tonopah.
It doesn't look as good as your model. -- Russ
Is that the Interstate Brick just off the Old Bingham Highway Gordon? I'd like to visit the spot and take a look.
David
Ray... the tractor looks like it's all there and the shovel is only missing the end bumpers. I'm mostly interested in the tractor, looks like it would be fun to model.
David... the address is 9780 So. 5200 W. I step up onto the track to get a photo of the top of the gas tank and I worker came out and told me not to get on the shovel. Have you ever been to the Antique Power Show up in Wallsburg? http://www.richardericksonfoundation.org/powershow.htm
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks Gordon. So it's on the Interstate Brick property? Can it be accessed on the weekend? I went to the Antique Power Show last year and plan on attending again this year, in fact I might go all three days.
David
I answered my own question Gordon. I looked closely at satellite photos and Google street view until I found it. It' definately on their property and behind a closed gate when the factory is shut down.