Here's a photo of the Baldwin shop switcher being moved to a new location on a truck. I will be modeling both the loco and the truck but I will start another thread for the truck latter.
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The drawings and some other photos are from Ron Knepp's Flickr page.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knepp736/
These drawing give the basic information for the core of the loco with very little detail. I am looking for information on the back head detail, injectors, lubricator, water glass, throttle, and whatever else. For the brakes I'm going with one set of shoes on the front of the rear wheels with one brake cylinder down in-side the frame near the rear axle or is it on the right side of the the fire box up above the cab floor. With all the photos and drawings sitting in front of me I can not get my head around the valve gear. The cross section showing the valve gear makes no sense to me when you compare it to the photos and to the side-view drawing. I have been working on the scale drawings and started the boiler, water tank, and the cab. Hopefully I will have some photos later today.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
will look forward to seeing this develop, funnly enough I was tempted to put my little crawler on a truck
I'm looking forward to this! That little loco is one of my favorites and has been on my "must do, someday" list ever since I first saw those pics.
Ray... it made my day when I first saw that photo.
Gordon... thanks for posting the photo. That truck looks like it could handle two of those little crawlers.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's two photos of what I have got finished.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Oh Boy!
Holy rivets, Batman!!! He's at it again.
Jerry
Rivets.... I've been using Grandt Line rivets and nut bolt castings for many years. I've used all three sizes of rivet on this work. The 032" down on the ash pan, the 043" on the water tank, the 063" on the cab and boiler. In my modeling I all so use a lot of hex nut bolt casting # 128 on the smoke box front. I love all of these castings, no clean-up and I've never seen a bad one. the rivets come in round and conical head . Google in Grandt Line go to there site click on Augmentables. for all of there hardware.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
This is going to be a good one, Gordon. By all means keep us posted! -- Russ
What Russ said ... this thread is already quite riveting. -- Dallas
Rivetman is what we should call you! I bought some Tichy rivets for my project and recently looked at them-a lot of flash! I shall look at Grandt Line; I can't be cleaning a thousand of those suckers!
Wow! I'm always amazed at how quickly you build these incredible models, and always impressed by their quality!
Gordon, the first post was July 24, then the progress photos on July 25. Please don't tell us you accomplished all that in less than 24 hours!
This loco is wonderful. It would make a nice live steamer in 7/8ths or a big/small loco @ 7.5" gauge.
John
Thanks guys for your comments. John, I have spent around 15 hours on the drawings, and 15 hours on construction time. I Started this work around five weeks ago.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Hello Gordon,
As usual for you, outstanding buillding!!
randy
Thanks, Randy. Here's two photos of the cylinder block and the frame. I built a jig to hold the boiler up-side-down and the new work was fitted to the old. I will add as much detail as I can to the frame before I paint and add the painted wheels. The couplers are 0 scale brass castings from Kemtron. I'm looking for detail on the oil fitting on the top of the steam chest, boiler checks and injectors.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Excellent progress!
I just love your scratchbuilding methods - especially the wheels.
Beautiful as always, Gordon.
The last photos shows a good concept- instead of using a generic foam cradle you spent a few moments to make a practical fixture to hold the loco upside-down. Thanks for the idea.
John
I knew this one would be a gem. It's shaping up .... -- Russ
Gordon I like the way you use ordinary materials that fit the function that you need, very creative thinking.
Michael
Following along ... enjoying ... thanks for posting notes, photos ... and inspiration! -- Dallas
Gordon,
Another one of excellent work.
Jerry
..um....like...WOW!
M
As usual, it's both informative and enjoyable to watch this model come together.
Thanks guys for your comments, here's a photo of the steam and sand domes.
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The dome tops are wood turnings. I cut a 1/8 inch over-diameter sizes piece of hard wood dowel around six inches long, the same length of the tool rest on my lathe. Using the disk sander square up the ends. Mark the center using a center-finder and center punch the center. After the sides and top of the dome have been shaped (Don't cut all the way off tell the turning work on the bottom is finished). Mark the height of the dome and using the lathe cut off square. Shape the bottom to match the top of the water tank. I don't have a barrow-type sander so the shaping on the bottom is done by using sand paper wrapped around a piece of tubing pipe or wood dowel.
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Here's a photo of the jig that holds the model up-side-down that I cut away the back leg so I would have room for the back-head detail.
The base for the domes are 040" styrene disk shaped and glued to the 015" styrene layer that is glued on to the top of the temporary core. This styrene layer is only glued at the bottom keep the area under the domes glue free. The temporary core has the same profile as the top of the water tank. For this I used the extra piece of tubing from the water tank core. I squared the section of tubing on the disk sander, and glued it to a wood block. The 015 styrene sheet is cut the same length as the temporary core and a little shorter on the sides. Before adding this layer to the temporary core mark a center line on top and with a compass draw a circle for both domes. Now I center and glue this onto the temporary core (only use glue at the bottom of the two sides). The 040" styrene disks are cut with a circle cutter before bending them to match the water tank mark a cross on the top. Now just using my finger bend them and glue them to the 015" styrene layer. Now the wood top can be fitted and glued on before removing from the core mark the four sides. Cut the 015" styrene around the domes and sand smooth.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Excellent. -- Russ
Here's two photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Wow!!
Are the brass NBWs on the steam chests castings, or actual nuts/bolts?
Took you long enough! -- Russ
Ray... They are actual brass nuts/bolts from Walthers. My hobby shop carries four sizes 00-90, 00-80, 1-72, and 2-56. The ones on the steam chest are 00-80.
Russ... It's only been five months.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
My God your work is so excellent. Five months it would take most people Five years to get that far.
Jerry
Websites like Grandt Line are absolutely pathetic. Grandt Line does both plastic and metal rivets. I do not want plastic. Do they tell you what the material is? Absolutely not. Same is true for Internet Trains. At least they tell you how to order, even though what they are sending is still a mystery. I would think since they are trying to sell things, they would have the good sense to be informative. But since they choose not to, then I'll buy elsewhere.
John
Gordon, that crawler early in this thread looks very, very similar to the Tamiya 1/48 Komatsu bulldozer kit. Especially the running gear and hood.
Scott
Hi Scott .............. this a different Gordon replying.
You are right about the crawler, this was my attempt at changing to a 1/35 Holt/T35/ Cat 2 ton.
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1526.msg27879#msg27879
Its not right, dimensionally and in a lot of other ways. However the new 1/35 S65 Russian crawler has a lot more promise, and I have a lot more info now, to turn into a 1/24 version of one of the early small crawlers ( 5, 10 or 15 ton as they all basically used same running gear)
Hopefully you may well see something fairly soon along these lines
Here's six photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Wonderful job on that little beauty, Gordon. That prototype has been a favorite of mine for years.
Bill Martinsen
Just lovely Gordon!!
I'll have to save this, would love to build one
(that runs - R/C) someday.
Thanks for all the inspiration!
Marty
Very nice cab detail. Like the knobs.
Excellent combo plate! Neat little engine for sure.
Beautiful!
I too hope to someday build a powered model of this prototype. Having your work to refer to will make that much easier.
Hi Gordon,
Would you allow me to put photos of the Baldwin on my Flick site?
I will give you full credit for building the fine model.
If anyone else is interested in small Baldwin locos, check out my Flickr site.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knepp736/
Ron Knepp
Lost for words but what a model !!! - you say you used wood for the domes do you use a filler or just a primer to cover / fill the grain - Superb model building just keep feeding us
Barney
I am reeling in stunned disbelief. Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Thanks guys for your comments. I started this project 16 months ago. Even with the four good photos and Ron's erecting drawings this was a hard model to figure out the brakes, backhead detail and the valve-gear was mostly made-up. It wasn't all lost time, I was able to build the five-ton truck, the buffalo Pitts engine and the two Tozer engines. Sometimes it is good to have other projects to move onto to clear your mind.
Marty and Ray... I hope you can figure out that valve gear. I for one would like to see how that thing works.
Ron... I'm looking forward to seeing the photos of my 0-4-0 on your great flickr page.
Barney... I use a thin CA on wood parts that need the wood grain hidden. Also helps to do two or three good coats of paint.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: Scratchman on September 26, 2012, 09:14:07 PM
Barney... I use a thin CA on wood parts that need the wood grain hidden. Also helps to do two or three good coats of paint.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, Do you know about using CA with baking soda as a filler? You can fill it up using several coatings sprinkled with soda. Sand it down flush. Works great for fill ing dings that just happen about the time you are almost done and ready for paint. I find it works well on wood, plastic and even metal. I have had metal figures with part of the face missing from a bubble. Fill it up and build it up and when dry and hard it can be carved.
And a great job on the truck and engine. What did you use for the valve knobs?
Bill Hudson
Bill I use Trackside details castings.
http://www.tracksidedetails.com/
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Somewhere buried in this discussion is a complaint about Grandt Lines not saying what their parts are made from. Unless otherwise stated, their parts are a grey plastic. Except for a very few nuts and bolts, all of the brass parts have been discontinued for a year or more.
All parts are Styrene or Delrin plastic.... Augmentables
http://grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20details/augmentables.html
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, very inspirational, I really like the last pic with the loco on the truck.
Michael
Thanks guys for your comments. here's two more photos of the loco and truck. The one photo in black and white is not quite what I was looking for. I was trying to get the look of the original photo. I will try again tomorrow. This photo might be as close as I can get.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
The combination of truck and steam loco is extremely effective. The modeling is outstanding. Overall, a satisfactory accomplishment. -- Russ
very very nice
Master Modeler. Thanks for yet another piece of artistry.
regards Mario ( Australia )
Hi Gordon,
Just great and fantastic. I can not get enough of your art!