The Smokey Bottom Lumber Co. ?Freelance Critter? was one of the first RR and ON30 models I built when I came back to the hobby when I came back to RR/model-building??.while recently purging my 1/48 models/kits, I ran across a second kit of the loco?I was going to get rid of it, but just couldn?t?it just called out to me to build?.I thought it would be a simple and quick build, and I could use it for a "painting challenge" on the MIG Forum?.but alas?is anything ever as simple as it seems?..this kit is truly a POS (at least buy my standards)?..the concept of ?square? really escapes the mfr.
The assembled frame:
The individual frame pieces in the kit are cast as "paralellograms"....so prior to assembly they were first made "square", and the same height, on the disk sander. For assembly the corners are glued held against a square jig on the exterior, when set they are filleted, with ACC, and the styrene tube is pressed in place for bracing. Additional ACC is then filleted along each frame piece at the "V" created by the intersection with the styrene tube. [The use of the stryrene tubes as corner bracing allows for squaring if the exterior faces of the frame when the interior faces are not (in this case due to irregular casting), and square interior bracing would not fit correctly in the corners.]
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Top view of the Bonnet:
1. Off center radiator filler cap
2. Mis-shapen "bulbous" radiator sides
3. Concave bonnet sides
4. Rear of bonnet, wider than front
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Side View of Bonnet:
1. Concave radiator front
2. Misaliging radiator and bonnet pieces
3. Sway-back bonnet top
...and of course, butt-ugly hinges (that would never be found for such an application), and very poorly cast, and irregular, parting and panel lines.
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In order to create a consistant parting/panel line between the radiator grille and the bonnet, a spacer was cut from .005 styrene sheet....also you can see that the ugly hinges have been removed, and the top panel line on the bonnet has been filled with putty.
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After a lot (6 hours so far) of squaring/repair/rework/prep on the frame and bonnet section I did a quick test fit for the deck, and wanted to get an idea of scale?.so I stuck a 1/48 figure next to it??it just didn?t look right?.so I pulled out a 1/35 railway figure I had started a while back?..and TA-DAAA?there it was?.this was going to work much better in 1/35-32??though it is going to require a good bit of additional detailing?..I think it will be a fun entr?e into occasional 1/35 RR modeling.
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That's it for now...
Marc
Welcome back Marc. Just knew you find a good reason to give Marty a little challenge in the critter department.
I sent you ane email but found out the information I needed by going through all the posting. Brian at Whistle Stop real nice guy.
Jerry
Marc
I remember when this kit came out. Your assessment of its quality is remarkably restrained and polite.
In addition to the heavy-weight reefer hinges the thing that really stuck out for me was the ring of decorative bolts around the edge of the running board. These don't serve any useful purpose, but provide a nice safety issue for the crew. Glad to see you've lost the twee Victorian-era steam locomotive cab that originally came in the kit.
ISTR Phillipe Cousyn did a 1:35 conversion of this loco for the carri?re Rougeault layout he and Franck Tavernier built several years ago.
Jerry: Thanks. Sorry I missed the e-mail/message.....I don't usually look to see/notice if I have eny messages here, and the email box that it is connected to is one I rarely check :-\......glad it you were able to get in touch with them. Hope Brian was able to help.
Kevin: I do need to at least pretend at a modicum of decorum ;D The quarry layout by Franck and Phillipe is one of my top 5 favorites......I was actuallly planning on drawing on inspiration from that beautiful green/grey and red diesel that Franck did (not sure if that is the one you are thinking of)....maybe even employ the same/sim color scheme....I spoke with him a while back, while working on the tractor loco, to see if he would be OK with me copying the idea of the missing builders plate......I didn't get around to doing it on the last one...so maybe I will pay homage to him with it on this one.
Marc
QuoteI was actuallly planning on drawing on inspiration from that beautiful green/grey and red diesel that Franck did (not sure if that is the one you are thinking of)
Marc
That would be Franck's Gmeinder ? one of the nicest loco models I've ever seen (in photos anyway). The only photo I've kept of Phillipe's Smokey Bottom loco is this one, which he took to show his experiments with Heki grass, so it doesn't actually show too much of the loco.
i think resin does that sometimes
Kevin,
Interesting....thanks for posting the pic...though I am not sure about the choice he made of keeping the steel plate end sill, and adding the new rouned one on top of it.....in proto pics I have generally seen either one or the other...but not both. You are correct, the Gmeinder was the one I was thinking of....I agree with your comment re. it's quality/craftsmanship...my sentiments also.
Jay,
True, resin does do odd things...and I could write-off the sinking of the sides and sway-backing of the top, due to this (as it is a big/thick piece and there is a lot of potential for shrinkage and other shennanigans). The out of square...and were talking 2+ degrees over about a 1/2 length....is not acceptable...that problem lies with the mfr, and his handeling of the molds. Though when considering the price a the time of (if I recall correctly) around $65....none of these issues are really acceptable...especially on a kit with so few parts (less than 20). If I spend $65 for a resin armor kit.....which is really scraping the bottom of the "armor resin kit barrel".......I get far better quality, more/finer detail, and probably more parts. An example of what is possible when a mfr. cares, is the 1/76 HaGo resin kit that I built a while back.
But in all honesty....I am not upset or dissapointed in any way with the kit.....I really had no "expectations" so to speak, as it was just started for fun, and to give me an eventual "canvas" to use for the "Modulation" challenge. My comments were/are merely made in an honest and "educational" sense/appraisal....so others thinking of buying this kit, or heading down this road, know what to expect.
Marc
Hi Guy's,
Kevin, you are right it's my Gmeinder!
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Marc, of course you can copying the idea of the missing builders plate! I would be very proud...And for you some old pics (sorry for poor quality) took during painting operations builders plate...
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Since, I've done other gas loco in 1:35 scale ;), like this Smoky Bottom kit, my last model :
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Philippe did a 1:35 version of the SBLC kit like yours Marc, and this kit was "perfect" for this scale...
Franck
wow; that seat must do some damage by the end of the shift!
beautiful work on both prime movers
Beautiful weathering. -- Russ
Jay, Thanks for the kind words!
About the last gas loco, the seat is made from a real seat ;)
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Franck,
So glad to see you posting here!
Thanks for the pics of the beautiful Gmeinder......definiteley the quality/type of workmanship/finish I need to strive for.
The yellow engine is neat also...but for some reason it feels like a bit more of a "caricature".....not saying it's bad in any way...it's just not the Gmeinder ;) ;D ;D....though the seat is cool. (thanks for the proto pic.)
Can you explain the process/technique you used to get the old wood finish on both of these locos? I'm most interested.
Marc
Fantastic work. I guess I'll have to go out in the shop and study some more to raise my level of modeling.
John
Hi Marc, thanks for the kind words!
About the yellow engine, I agree it's feel more of a caricature and yes it's not the Gmeinder, but it wasn't the same goal...For the Gmeinder, at that time I wanted a light weathered model, beacause narrow gauge model wasn't always a "rust heap"...For the yellow engine, I wanted to test some technics, and to have a model more weathered, because I found on the web some pics of more rusted models...I think too yellow paint had more effect regarding to rust....but also it's a color which is more difficult to treat in model weathered...
Wood tehnique : It's not a scoop, and the same technique like yours...I use always basswood for is fineness and sugar pine for ties...first, lightly I scored lines along the grain with a sharp X-Acto N?11. Then I add more grain with a steel wire soft brush, and sometimes with a light razor saw, but less and less with the saw because grain are often over scaled...After I add knot holes, and continue to distress and age the wood with my X-Acto knife N?11...Finally, light sand with 200-400 sand paper...I stained with ink / alcohol, or artist oil paint / "F" petrol (we find here in France diffrent type of petrol, A; C; F, etc...) never with turpentine because it left a brilliant or gloss effect sometimes, or 2 or 3 or more silverwood washes...And sometimes I add weathering powders...
Franck
Franck,
Beautifull weathering.
If I see these pictures, then I have a long way to go to achieve this.
Leon
Franck
Beautiful weathering very realistic. But I will admit real or not that seat could have some real drawbacks.
Thanks for the pictures and explanation.
Jerry
Leon, Jerry, thanks for the kind words! Yes this seat could have some drawbacks! :D :D
Very nice Fordson-based loco!
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[/quote]
Oh man!
I didnt realize that was Fordson powered?!?!
That would make an awesome sister for my Plymouth!
Hmm....Franklin Mint.....
Do we have any more pictures of the loco?
-Marty
Hi Marty, yes I have more pictures of this loco :
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No , Marty , you mustn't . You promised that you would be returning to your normal scale once you finished your Plymouth . ....Still , it does look rather fun . Oh , all right , maybe you can do it after all .
Nick
-MJ
Holy Bat Poop!! Have you lost your mind completely!! Next you'll want to do a brother!!
Jerry
Thanks for those, Franck!
Marty, I got my Fordson from Danbury MInt. Don't know if it is still available, but I have seen them on Ebay.
THere are many Fordson based locos out there. (plus that Death Valley Monorail!)
The loco is a 2ft 6in gauge 1932-vintage Hudson Go-Go, one of three surviving. English modeller Jeremy Tilston <jeremy@jtilston.wanadoo.co.uk> used to sell an excellent set of 1:13.7-scale drawings on CD as Vol 2 No 2 of his Industrial Narrow Gauge Illustrated series. Unfortunately, he stopped producing new releases a couple of years ago to devote his time to the Moseley museum magazine. I don't know if he's still prepared to burn new copies. Mike Decker used to sell them in the USA, but, again, I don't know if he's still in the retailing business.
OH NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
More pictures....plans (might) be available.........CRAP!!!!!!!!!!
That thing is cool!
May be I'll do it in 1/32......no wait the DM model is 1/16......must resist.....wait there is a 1:48 Fordson model.....
ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
Frank,
Are these the original size images?
If not, can I get you to send me the original large files? Please.
lab_dad at yahoo
Just sent Jeremy an email......
And it failed.............
-Marty
Marty, you probably know of the Bill Roy Fordson (model F), but there is also a Fordson N made by I think The Model Company in 1/43. The tractor in this loco is a Model N, though the F would work perfectly well.
Hmmm...if you cross a Hudson Go-Go, with a Japanese Ha-Go, you would have a Hudson Ha Go-Go.
Hi Marty,
No it's not the original size images! But I can send the original images if you want ;)
There is a Fordson F in 1:32 scale, made by Tekno Bygg, from Sweden :
http://wb616757.bahnhofbredband.se/
http://wb616757.bahnhofbredband.se/agricult.htm
About the Hudson Go-Go, I found this on Wikipedia : "When the Fordson petrol tractor became widely available in the 1920?s Hudsons adapted this unit to make a simple locomotive. The locomotive used a four wheeled cast chassis to which a roller chain drive connected to the tractor axle. The tractor gearbox had three forward speeds but only one reverse gear, which clearly was a limitation for a locomotive that has to operate bi-directionally. Only a few of these machines were constructed but fortunately a 2-foot (0.61 m) gauge, 1928 model is preserved at the Armley Mills Industrial Museum, Leeds." There are also a model preserved at the Amberley Museum...
Franck
Great info guys! Fun stuff. Thanks for the link Franck.
I have Bills 1/48 kit (unless I tossed it on my On30 purge :-\)
The 1/32 diecast looks tempting.....might work OK for the Hudson loco in 1/35, since most of the fordson is hidden to some degree. I bet if somone made some masters for the Husdon frame (which would be easy to cast in resin), a couple of people might be interested in one. The limited run casting might be a conversation to take up with Jerry Kitts. Of course we would have to talk Franck into making several sets of all the brass PE parts for the the cab and bonnet ;D ;D ;D.
Chuck: Ahhh.... the reclusive Fordson "Ha-Go-Go"....sort of something like this ;) ;D ;D
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Marc
QuoteJust sent Jeremy an email......
And it failed.............
Marty
Seems Jeremy has changed his email address since issuing the CD. Sorry about that chief. The latest Moseley trust magazine I have shows it as ....
Thanks Kevin,
I heard back from Jeremy and he says he can send me the plans!!! nice guy!
Frank,
I would love the original size photos!
THANKS
No hurry, I wont start for a couple of weeks.
Still not sure what scale, would really like to do 1/16 again.
-Marty
I got the plans and some information from Jeremy!
What a great guy, didnt know me from Adam and sent all the stuff to me.
I am going to print it all out and see what i think.
Once I get the original pics from Frank I will see what I need to do there too.
Next step is to find a good Fordson model.....yea in 1/16....
Once/if I start I will start another thread.
Thanks everyone!
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on August 30, 2008, 05:41:21 AM
Frank,
I would love the original size photos!
THANKS
-Marty
Marty I sent the orignal photos on your e-mail address ;)
Franck
Guys, I have a small problem when trying to assemble the spoked wheels for a Jordan version of a (HO)tractor I have tried three times and just cannot get them to be perfectly round! Could you suggest a way to proceed? Thanks Pat
Pat,
Some sort of jig would be my recommendation.
Not sure exactly what is involved, but sounds like you need to drill some stepped holes to align the inner and outer wheel.
-Marty
Franck, got the pics, THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I got to spend my holiday with 12 hours at the workbench, and thus was able to make progress on the loco.
If compared to the photo of the original frame, one can see where I went through and removed all the funky "riveted straps" on the sideframes, the huge bulbous rivets on the end sills and coupler pockets, and some stray (and really sadly cast) bolt details. Nex
- The tops of the sanding boxes were milled down, and caps added
- The frame under the journal boxes was milled out to more properly represent the slot in which the journals travel
- The wierd blocky original journals were milled down, and newly detailed including small oiler port covers
- Bracing was added to the sides of the "spring mounts"
- New bolt rivet detailin was added at the end sills. As well as matching nuts on the interior side
- Cast on serial numbers and builders emblem were added to the side-frames, using the Archer "cast" decals
- An access panel detail was added at each sideframe
- Angle mounting/gluing strips were added to the inside of the frame for later attachment of the deck
...far from perfect work...and it would probably have been easier/cleaner to build the whole thing from scratch......but it will be fine foe the purpose of the project.
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....the thing I came away the happiest/proudest with, was that I was able to perfectly drill out one of the sander fillers, to represent an open one with a missing cap.....that was just pure luck....one wbble of the bit or .001 off, and it would not have happened. ;D ;D
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Marc
Now I dont feel so bad making my own frame!
I am going to have to get those letters for the next critter.
Love the sand box, really nice detail, a little sand spilled......
Hope you finish this one!
-Marty
Yeah...but my frame is only about 2.5" long ;) ;D...I'm not quite as nuts as you.
The Archer casting marks are pretty cool. They are basically water-slide decals, that just have raised printing on them. Many of the numbers and symbols on the sheet relate to specific armor items, but half the sheet is just individual letters and numbers in a couple of different sizes. The also have a sheet of "Rivets" which I bought at the same time, they look pretty cool...but I have yet to try them. They would work great for say HO, or areas of thinner sheet metal in O scale and larger...i may try and use them on the cab area of this loco.
QuoteHope you finish this one!
My good man....are you impuning my completion record!...I dare say, that I did finish the last Gas-Mech critter (albeit it took a couple of years)...and were it not for the convention, I would have been able to finish the FMW cars ::);D.....
I actually am trying to get this one done in pretty short order, as I want to use it for the MIG "color modulation" thread/experiment. Unfortunately there is just a lot of rework. Next comes prepping the frame for the drive unit, and then continuing corrections and modifications on the bonnet. I also have not quite decided on aspects/shape/layout of the drivers compartment.
M
Maybe the photo fails to do it justice but the resin frame looks rather crude, especially in comparison to what you typically fashion from styrene. Once you have completed the detail and primed the thing it probably will look infinitely better. At the moment, though, it resembles a Jahrlsburg cheese carving with nice added detail. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on September 03, 2008, 01:56:18 AM
.....the resin frame looks rather crude, especially in comparison to what you typically fashion from styrene. Once you have completed the detail and primed the thing it probably will look infinitely better. -- Russ
We can only hope, because with the hours already into this thing, that scratchbuild ship has sailed. ;D ;D ;D
Quotehttp://At the moment, though, it resembles a Jahrlsburg cheese carving with nice added detail. -- Russ
I prefer to think of it as a nice "Dubliner" or "Gouda" ;D
Marc
Tonight was the night of "The Resin Milling".......
Since when done, I may decide to sell this thing on ebay, or give it to someone, I figured I had better make this thing DCC or RC adaptable/ready, so I roughly milled ou the inside of the solid resin bonnet so that it can house a DCC or RC receiver and wiring. The small extra notches at the sides are to clear the wire connection tabs on the "Balck Beetle" mechanism that will be used for motorization.
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The Inside of the frame/journal boxes was also milled out to allow for the slight remaining axle extensions and and possible wheel-play of the 'B-B' mechanism. Styrene front braces and shim/spacers for the B-B mechanism mave also been installed on the underside of the deck.
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Lastly, I was finally able to decide on the "cab" style. These photos show the proposed shape/design mock-up made using some cut up strathmore business cards. (the cab deck is missing.) This design will require me to shorten the bonnet by approx. 2mm....which will be my next step.
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Marc
BTW....these are a couple of the images that I am using as inspiration for my Gas Mech.
Marc
What is the world coming to?
Marc builds a loco that "may" run on its own power?!?!
Looking better all along.
Kinda cool you got your little helper to hold the cab firewall.
At least you found a use for all those business cards!
What will you be making the cab out of?
-Mj
Thanks Marty,
Yea every now and then the little dude is sober enough to help out.... though as you can see, he's not pleased that at the moment the radiator is extending past the pilot.
It "will" be able to run.....if the next owner installs the supplied/accompanyong Black-Beetle (and their own DCC decoder if they chose such.)
I was toying with the idea of making it out of sheet brass and some brass rod...at least the rear section (the front has enough baacking/stability that it can be styrene)....but since I really suck at brass/soldering, and there will need to be a good amount of detailing associated/attached to, this part, I am really considering using .010 styrene for it....I need to play around a bit though, to see whether I can get a good/clean enough bends at the corners using warm-water softened styrene pressed into a jig, or whether I need to vacuum form the shape.
Marc
QuoteBTW....these are a couple of the images that I am using as inspiration for my Gas Mech.
Jenbachs are cool locos. I used one as the inspiration for my first experimental 1:34-scale two foot gauge loco back in mumble, mumble, cough, cough.
The photo shows it visiting a layout built by the late Pete Hodge.
Wow Marc nice job! I like very much the cab style ;)
Kevin, could you possibly tell us more about your beautiful Jenbach?
Franck
Although the loco was built from the Jenbach 20 drawing in the first volume of Waldbahnen in ?sterreich, it was more inspired-by than a scale model.
It was mainly scratchbuilt from styrene, with some of the smaller details (eg the filler cap) made from brass. The vents in the bonnet side were stainless steel mesh recycled from a local water treatment plant (which had a 610mm gauge access tramway through the hill to the watershed - very civilised). The bonnet catches were stolen from a Grandt Line Plymouth, the springs and axleboxes came from an Airfix railcar kit and the toolbox under the driver's seat was recycled from a Tamiya military kit. The driver was a civilianised Tamiya soldier; he had his pose altered, legs, arms and torso stretched to suit the larger scale, his hands were reworked to fit the loco controls and he got new clothes from epoxy putty. If he looks a little unhappy, it's because he's spent the last quarter century with a hefty lead enema to help balance the loco weight over the wheels (drive was a re-gauged NWSL PDT, so it ran much better than a loco built on the usual SPUD, but nowhere near as well as a proper mechanism).
Base paint was Humbrol, with washes and drybrushing in the most-approved Verlinden manner, followed by weathering with more Humbrol, artist's oils, Winsor & Newton artist's pigments and Pantone proofing toner.
I think I've still got the loco somewhere, but the last time I saw it, it was very much showing its age.
Kevin: 1985!!! :o....man thats oooooold! ;D Nice job on the Jenbach. Thanks also for the description on your process. Any chance you still have the drawings of the loco, and you might consider scanning/emailing them.....would be really interested. Am having a heck of a time on some kind of "acceptable/plausible" cab interior....esp. the controls.
Franck: thanks.....I actually did consider a one-sided opening cab, but it just looked to cramped and off-balance (you know us anal retentive swiss..."Evereezing musst be even!" ;D
I need to ask an opinion on a cab wall/grab iron detail from both you and Kevin, but need to do and sketch or mock-up of it first....probably over the weekend.
Marc
My dear young whippersnapper
The drawing I used was a catalogue illustration. Although good of its sort, it only showed the front and side elevations, so probably wouldn't be wildly useful for your purposes. Because I had no photos or drawings of the control area when I built my model, this area is an extremely dubious piece of fiction as modelled ? certainly nothing like on a full-size Jenbach. On Jenbachs, like many small industrial diesels, the rear of the bonnet/front of the cab was open, allowing access to controls mounted on the gearbox &c. The second of the reference photos you posted shows this. I'll post a couple of other photos stolen from the internet showing this area. Also a stolen drawing (from someone in Sweden IIRC) of a Jenbach 20. It's been bitmapped at a very low resolution, but does include a view of the bonnet rear opening. I assume for your model, though, you'll want a solid bonnet rear, as on, for example, Jung diesels.
Changing the subject slightly, someone sent me a pic of a large-scale Plymouth AL from the competitions at the Portland NG convention. Is that Marty's model? It's bloody nice.
More pics.
Stolen from the Fr?vi museum's website:
Kevin thanks for the great pics & info. Yes, you assume correctly that mine will be closed....and will also have to have some kind of a floor/firewall bulge, in order to hide the protruding BB mech. But the info you supplied will at least give me a detailing direction, to make it more plausible (if one sqints hard ;D)
Yes, the large Plymouth is Marty's. He did a beautiful job. He once had a thread started on it over on MIG, but stopped posting a while back (and I think the thread dissapeared during one of the forum changeovers). He also has a Fotki or Flickr or some such page with some of the construction/progress images on it.....but darn if I can recall/find the URL. the model is based on the one on display in Death Valley, CA. I think that there will be an article on it in the upcoming FSRR Modelers Annual.
Marc
Kevin,
Thanks for the description of your Jenbach, It's a nice model!
I found this drawing there are a few weeks ago :
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A big thanks to Henrik Laurell and his nice web site :
http://en.fmbbm.net/association/drawings.html
Franck
QuoteYes, the large Plymouth is Marty's .... I think that there will be an article on it in the upcoming FSRR Modelers Annual.
Kewl. Do you know if there will be any sort of scale drawing? I wouldn't mind building a Plymouth sometime and the AL model rather appeals as we had three working on drainage tramways here in the 1920s.
A couple of borrowed Jung EL110 photos which may be more relevant for your project.
Franck: Thanks for your kind comments.
Frank: Thanks for the neat pics, Drawing & Link.....good stuff.
Kevin: Thanks for the interior shots. Help a lot with my "winging it".
I do not know what Russ has planned for the article. I dont think there was ever a plan...unless Marty drew one for himself.....I know Marty spent a good bit of time/discussion collecting images, info, data, and any kind of drawings he could from some the guys in the Terrapin group.....but I don't know/recall if he ever got an exact plan,....I think in the end he had to figure it out himself. He put an awful lot of effort into this loco, and I think it shows. He fabricated almost everything himself, and those few parts he didn't (like the radiator cooling fins, and the curved spoke flywheel) he had laser cut out of styrene by Tom Fitzgerald, of Crystal River Model Works.
....but then Marty can probably tell you best what was involved when he gets back from the NNGC...I am merely a poor second hand source ;D
As far as my loco projct goes, it is progressing, I have milled down the bonnet length, and am working on the headlight and starter crank area details....after those I will focus on the details on top, such as the gas filler, stack, and probably the radiator filler. Trying to decide whether to do an external Air filter on the side of the cowling....I can't recall ever seeing one on these types of locos though.
Marc
QuoteTrying to decide whether to do an external Air filter on the side of the cowling....I can't recall ever seeing one on these types of locos though.
Do you mean something like this? Probably only on machines like Brookvilles that continued using tractor skid units as the power plant late enough for that sort of apparatus to be in vogue. Most other builders had moved on by that time.
Kevin,
Yep, that is what I was thinking of (great image BTW).....thanks for the historical context also...has helped me decide against doing it.
....on another front, sad news....Marty apparently did not win first....which to me is truely unbelievable...and a really sad comment on the hobby, because from the photos I saw of all the contest entries, 90% were pure unmitigated, skill-less/talentless crap. I can't believe that the builders of these things had the audacity to consider them contest level/quality models. IMO there should have been a rubbish bin at the contest room door where these things should have been deposited. Truly astounding, and truly saddening, for what it says about the the "model" in model railroading...and about the mediocrity that seems to have become the accepted norm in the hobby.
Marc
QuoteTruly astounding, and truly saddening, for what it says about the the "model" in model railroading...and about the mediocrity that seems to have become the accepted norm in the hobby.
Must be a lot of
Model Railroader-level people out there. Apparently there is quite a lot of behavioural and psychological research showing that people need to be skilled themselves to truly recognise skill and that incompetent people in any field have no conception of just how incompetent they are. I feel sorry for Marty ? certainly from the photos I saw his loco was a standout, with most of the other entries very mediocre as you say. Don't the NNGC competitions have a bit of a history of dubious votes at times?
The Portland model contest was a humorless farce. It had only four contest quality models. Most voters had absolutely no idea of what constitutes such a model and seem to have cast their ballots for the most abortive caricature in each category. Marty was not judged by his peers but by a mob of unschooled, tasteless idiots and fools. His Plymouth was head and shoulders better than the next best entry. You may appreciate it in the December Modelers' Annual should you be willing to part with the cash to obtain a copy.
I really don't fully understand how the narrow gauge hobby has degenerated into what it has become. But -- mark my words -- things will get worse. And many manufacturers gleefully are reinforcing the concepts of the lowest common denominator.
If the above remarks offend you, you don't belong here.
Russ
As a long time lurker in this neck of the woods, I've finally got around to joining another forum! Russ, Marc, I thought I was being a bit critical myself, and I guess was being patient and waiting for a good variety of pics to come in from the NNGC, so I initially reserved judgement. Going back a few years ago, I always looked forward to getting the wave of attendies pics rolling in, and getting my dose of modelling inspiration for another year. I must agree, Marty's piece looked superb, even from the limited few pics I have seen.
Russ, pretty accurate call...only a few competition level pieces judging by the pics coming through. Makes you wonder if some of those dioramas by the likes of Nolan, Revelia, Greenberg & Doan have scared builders off! I thought models like that were meant to make you work harder!! I thought the dioramas in this event were pretty average, looked like 2 of the structures were fairly decent though...if only one of those guys stuck their structure on a base covered in dirt and called it a diorama, they'd be laughing. Like I said, early days yet, I'll hope there's a few more pics to come, but at this stage, I'm glad I saved my airfare and stayed home in Australia.
Nice Gas Mech by the way Marc, I'll get off my box now...
Dan Pickard
Russ,
QuoteThe Portland model contest was a humorless farce. It had only four contest quality models. Most voters had absolutely no idea of what constitutes such a model and seem to have cast their ballots for the most abortive caricature in each category. Marty was not judged by his peers but by a mob of unschooled, tasteless idiots and fools.
this is not only happening in the US. Think of the discussion regarding proto's in the logging tread.
A good freind asked a german modelrailway magazine when an article about my layout will be published.
The answer was negative as it was not representative or of interest to the german modeller as it did not contain material from german manufacturers.
I stopped giving clinics as most of the time was spend in showing the participants how to to use the needed tools and basic materials. The will to learn facts and the use of tools and materials has disappeared somehow. Many believe they are experts in a topic when they have seen a "how to" DVD.
Jacq
Hi Dan,
Welcome to the forum. Great to see you posting. Hope you will be contributing your thoughts and models.
I wouldn't hold my breat about anything better showing up from the NNGC Contest. :-X ;D
Marc
"I wouldn't hold my breath about anything better showing up from the NNGC Contest."
Maybe; maybe not. Next year's convention is in Colorado, traditionally a locale where the best modelers strut their stuff. Besides, this year's contest was the worst in fifteen years or more. Finally, remember what a major problem it is getting a model through the Homeland Gestapo clowns at airports and that deters many from bringing good models across the country.
Overall the level of modeling at the NG convention gradually has been declining but the contests still produce more than four or five good entries. If the next two years are as dismal as this year, I'll agree with Marc and throw in the towel. While I do expect to be disappointed, I think we will see some better stuff next year.
Russ
Well back to modeling and the original subject of this thread ;) ;D
Made some progress & finally finished the bonnet:
Detailing was done using .005, .010 and .015 sheet styrene. The white .018 & .023 dia. rivets were made from .005 & .010 styrene using a Waldron punch & die set. The handles are .015 brass rod, with the weld fillets being made using Model Color (Vallejo) #400 Plastic Putty. Latch bolts are from Bronco Models. Metal & brass parts are leftovers from AFV detailing sets.
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The headlight is from the scrap box (I think its Delrin, possibly from Grandt)..it was recessed into the resin front (as you can see I was a bit off with the first hole I drilled, and thus required some putty work :-\ ). The interior of the headlight was also drilled out in the back to represent the socket location. A two step hole was drilled at the bottom of the front, to later accept the crank handle reciever stub.
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On the top, two holes were drilled on center into the resin where the gas and water filler caps will go (a third two-step hole was drilled off to the side for the future stack location). The bonnet center was then added using .005 sheet styrene, into which were punched two holes using a micro-Mark punch & die set. The punched holes were .030 smaller than the drilled holes, this gave a lip to give the impression/illusion of a thin sheet metal bonnet with hollow space below.
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Next it's on to the cab area.
Marc
That's certainly an improvement on the original kit. Are the Bronco catches from one of their wingnut sets or lifted from a kit?
Subtle improvements do a hell of a lot to the overall picture. I think the thing I enjoy the most about watching your bash work Marc, is how you use the styrene, which in this case makes it dead obvious what improvements you've made (great from an educational point of view). When the Mr Surfacer comes out, there will be no evidence of how far this little thing has really come. Good stuff, not that I expect anything less from yourself. On with the cab, I wanna see the paint job...
Dan Pickard
Nice to see some modeling back on this thread.
How about making a mold of this thing when you get done?
Would be a nice model then!
And I'd have something to move my 1/35 mexicano cars with <VBG>
Now get back on the cab!
-Marty
Marc
Good to see you moving along Marc. Waiting to see the finished product painted.
I see that as you started posting the forum has come alive once again. Hoping to join you over the next year as my good friend Mr. Jones gets me through some of the rough spots.
Jerry
Marc,
Great job at making a sow's ear into a silk purse!!! If this comes out half as good as your tractor loco it will be another winner.
Frank
Wow Marc, nice job!
I like very much the new bonnet...
I like especially your approach of modelling, this feeling which you have, to find the small detail which goes well for next to nothing...
Freelance model are probably the best way to let oneself go, and let go his imagination and his talent!
Congratulations!
I work now too on freelance models. My last model, is a gas loco in Gn15 (1:24) based on the Magic Train gas loco frame from Fleichmann :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages42.fotki.com%2Fv1319%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F6715386%2FDSCF0003-vi.jpg&hash=4b7ecfb3f812e6b2594e8dc33c4357b35a8a319f)
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An idea to consider:
As I look at the work of modelers on this site (and others) and contrast that with the quality of some of the kits they are "bashing", I wonder why they don't simply scratchbuild the whole thing. Then everything could be as perfect and accurate as their own handiwork.
Personally, I have rarely been satisfied with the result when I modified a commercial model because its inherent imperfections or inaccuracies remain. What's more, I seem to spend as much time reworking lousy commercial stuff as I would spend designing and building a superior model myself.
So I now rely on CAD, guys with lasers and milling equipment, and people with photo etching or brass fabricating capability when I consider whether to build a model.
None of this should suggest that Marc or Franck have created anything less than gorgeous work. It's just something for all of us to think about for the future.
Russ
Nice Franck, not sure if its intensional or not, but I like what looks like a bit of metal fatigue and beating around the panel work.
Russ,
I guess I look at commercial things that can be "adjusted", as they usually provide at least a reliable working mechanism to start with. I personally arent into building a mech from scratch. For someone like Marc however, who is likely to pull the motor out of a commercial piece, good point. I have a Bachmann Gas Mech being delivered at the minute, which for $25US + delivery is hard to beat as a starting point, especially as a budget minded modeller. If you have connections to guys with the equipment to mill and etch stuff for you, added bonus I guess. Being a model railroader, as well as a modeller, its important to me that the thing will still move at the end of the operation.
Dan Pickard
Quote from: danpickard on September 18, 2008, 07:04:43 PM
Nice Franck, not sure if its intensional or not, but I like what looks like a bit of metal fatigue and beating around the panel work.
Dan Pickard
Dan, thanks for the kind words! About metal fatigue and beating around the panel work, yes and no, it's not exactly intensionnal...These blows arrived with the gluing of panel work styrene...I think it's due to the fineness of the styrene panel (.010)..I used MEK pak from Slater's, and if you put to much of MEK, styrene becomes deformed under the effects of the MEK...
Sorry for the delayed reply. Been a bit hectic.
thanks all for the kind words.
Kevin: The latches are from one of the wing-nut sets. I did though add a square PE piece from an Aber set behind each one.
Dan: The ability to see the styrene over the resin is neat....I too enjoy seeing it...probably the only part of working with resin I enjoy ;D.
Marty: Get your resin & spincaster ready.....I'll send it right over ;) ;D No Mexicano for this one......If it turns out okay, and I decide to keep her, she may end up in a polish potato field dio....or some kind of Czech factory scene ;D.....
Jerry: Don't blame me for the forum coming alive...I think that's all Dan & Francks fault. ;D I hope Marty gives you that kick soon...look forward to seeing your work. I hope Marty gets his butt in gear and starts posting some of his stuff here also!
Frank: Thanks....I too am curious (and anxious/nervous) about how the paint/finish will turn out.
Russ: Though you have a valid point, and I agree it would almost always result in a better project.....the problem is that if I didn't have a base/something to start with that peaked my curiosity/made me think, I would probably not get the project off the ground. I enjoy the challenge of seeing what can be done with something.
Franck: Wow...the loco is beautiful! (but then that is expected ;D)....I too think the glue problem created a good effect of metal fatige and wear. I look forward to your painting progress on this one. And if you keep this up with these locos of your's, I'm just goint to have to quit working on mine....because, what's the use ;) ;D
AND NOW... the public opinion portion of the post:
Which cab front wall do you guys like better...'A' or 'B' ? (or do you have another idea/suggestion)
Wall 'A':
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_135_Frontwall_v1.jpg&hash=e72063420c25ee28f4a596b594416d09bb4ee6eb)
Wall 'B'
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Marc
Hi Marc, I prefer the wall "A" ;)
The painting operations are finished since last week... ;D ;D ;D
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Marc,
I think I'd lean with option A as well. Only because I figure these type of loco's are kind of basic little work horses, and perhaps the cut in grab handles may have been a bit too fancy at the time, unless the manufacturers were providing the sports option when released ;D
Franck,
I really like the fade of the green and the rusted wear along the hard edges. It looks like it would still have a few miles left in her, rather than being just about ready to go out to pasture. Handy little starting points them magic trains.
Dan
Marc,
I would go with A also.
Jerry
Nice paint job, Franck! -- Russ
Marc: What everyone else said. I've seen arrangements like B on gear made in the last few years, but not on 'traditional' locomotives.
Franck: That paint job is superb. Really captures the character of a working locomotive.
Wall 'A'!!!???....oh man, you guys are killing me!........cr**...I know you're right....but c'mon....'B' is so much more interesting. :-\
...qou guys do realize that there will not be a rolled edge on the walls like on Francks locos....the Jenbachs had just stright plate steel.
....Ok...so say I go with 'A'....di I need to add a grab handle on the interior side of the front wall?....maybe it could be done to represent a "field/shop modification"?
Marc
Marc,
I was nearly going to suggest a possible grab handle on the inside face of the wall, but then I was thinking that by leaving the plain wall there would invite you to put a few more paint chips and greasy hand marks and wear on the corner, right were the guy with the high pants and what almost looks like platform shoes would grab hold as he pulls himself into the drivers seat. Safety chain across the cab entry maybe??
Dan
Marc,
Why not using a bit of both? On one site the iron hand-held and on the other site a driverseat, like used on O&K loco's. ;D
Marc: Given that the real thing rarely, if ever, had just a vestigial flat cab front plate such as you're proposing (and without a beading or angle around the edge it would get badly knocked around), you're into the realm of what looks good/plausible rather than strict fidelity to full size. I'd suggest a couple of simple handgrip 'ears' welded or rivetted on each side, kinda sorta like this sketch.
Quote from: finescalerr on September 18, 2008, 12:28:51 PM
An idea to consider:
As I look at the work of modelers on this site (and others) and contrast that with the quality of some of the kits they are "bashing", I wonder why they don't simply scratchbuild the whole thing. Then everything could be as perfect and accurate as their own handiwork.
Personally, I have rarely been satisfied with the result when I modified a commercial model because its inherent imperfections or inaccuracies remain. What's more, I seem to spend as much time reworking lousy commercial stuff as I would spend designing and building a superior model myself.
Russ
Russ,
I've spent time in the past to scratchbuild superior model myself like this Deutz OMZ 117...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages39.fotki.com%2Fv1349%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5844574%2FDSCF0001-vi.jpg&hash=61b9b3ce40f1c692addd6b2110cadac652943954)
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But scratchbuilding every thing for a superior model is a real "time consumer", and I have less and less time for modelling...
Now I want to do more funny models, freelance, and with a commercial model or commercial parts, you save a lot of time!
Franck,
That is absolutely a stunning piece of jewelry!!!!!!!
OUTSTANDING!!!!!
I even love the color.
Having just done something similar, but not as nice I understand.
I would love to hear more about this little jewels construction though.
-Marty
Franck,
Outstanding as usual. Do you have any additional pics of the engine in this pic.
http://public.fotki.com/FranckTavernier/painting-techniques/photo1.html
It is the blue one on the right.
Frank
Absolutely superb, Franck. -- Russ
Guy's thanks, for the kind words!
@ Marty,
About the model...It's a Deutz OMZ 117. This model is entirely built in brass and phosphorous bronze sheet. On this model there are only two photoetched parts : The builder plate and the radiator grid...All the thicknesses of metal sheets visible on this model are thus exactly to scale, without any exception! For example, all sheets having 5mm thicknesses in reality, have a thickness of .15mm in 1:35 scale! Yes, I'm crazy!
The gearbox, coupling rods, brake lever, reversing lever, seat, were hand built! All this parts are strictly in 1:35 scale, with no concession being made...The rivets are brass rivets...Nuts are real brass nuts or casting nuts...
My model is equipped with an internal chassis frame. Construction is traditionnal, using hexagonal brass spacer assemblies with brass side frame of .8mm thick...For this model I choose, like my Gmeinder, the most wonderful of coreless gearheadmotors, a Faulhaber 2020D 215:1...Placed vertically, it drove the front axle through a 1:1 skew gear set (brass gear mod. 0.3 from a French craftsman)...The power is transmitted to the rear axle via the coupling rods...It ran very smoothly...The frame is of course equipped with a full equalization system. I made a cradle beam, wich is simply articulated on a upper horizontal shaft fixed in two hexagonal brass spacer, wich allows the axle to rock easily between the side frames...
The wheels were bought from UltraScale a British craftsman but I will change them for a hand built wheels in brass and nickel silver...
@ Frank,
Additionnal pics are here :
http://public.fotki.com/FranckTavernier/135-scale-german-ga/
The blue gas loco on the right is a kit from Smoky Bottom Lumber Co...modified...
Franck,
Is the Deutz OMZ 117 a kit?
Is it available?
I looked but can only find links to posts you made.
I would love to have one.
-Marty
Marty,
There are kits from Carocar, a German craftsman...
In 1:45 scale : http://www.carocar.com/html/ecore_neuheiten.html
In 1:32 scale : http://www.carocar.com/html/complexx_galerie.html
And last time, KB Scale, a British craftsman :
In 1:43.5 scale : http://www.kbscale.com/
Franck
Franck ,
Thanks for websites , there are definitely some nice looking locos on the German one , though you would have to be seriously dedicated looking at some of the prices. Very tempting though .
I have seen the KB Scale Deutz and it is also a very nice loco . Plus it is a bit nearer my price bracket . I have a friend who has bought one , but I haven't seen it finished yet .
incidentally , for those that are unfamiliar with KB Scale, they have recently taken over the production of all of the old Roy Link products . Which is good news as Roy used to make some interesting products.
Nick Ogden
Franck, the Deutz is beautiful, as one would expect. I'm curious as to why you're changing the wheels. Is it for greater accuracy or have you encountered some problems with the Ultrascale wheels?
Kevin,
Thanks for the kind words! About the wheels I have had no problem with the Ultra scale, I want greater accuracy for my wheels...
the different parts are ready, but I did not assemble them yet ;D ;D, the hub is in brass and rim is in Arcap, a metal near nickel silver...but look like steel ;)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages29.fotki.com%2Fv290%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5844574%2FDSC_0011-vi.jpg&hash=46ebc85ef2a1c88f63be28bed6a0df5b90eb1a49)
Oh fine Franck...just ruin all my fun and aspirations!! :-\ >:( ...I might as well just give up now. :'( Maybe I should just take up the hobby of making paper hats, or wooden pull-toys.
I spend all weekend working on the transmission for my critter, and today when I check the forum you have posted your brass loco build!....what's the use...why go on. ???
Seriously though.......Beautiful work Franck, That is a really neat little loco. Thank you also for all the links and info.
Marc ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 29, 2008, 04:47:12 PM
Oh fine Franck...just ruin all my fun and aspirations!! :-\ >:( ...I might as well just give up now. :'( Maybe I should just take up the hobby of making paper hats, or wooden pull-toys.
:D :D :D :D
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 29, 2008, 04:47:12 PMI spend all weekend working on the transmission for my critter, and today when I check the forum you have posted your brass loco build!....what's the use...why go on. ???
;D ;D ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 29, 2008, 04:47:12 PMSeriously though.......Beautiful work Franck, That is a really neat little loco. Thank you also for all the links and info.Marc ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Marc thanks for the kind words...It's a pleasure to post here ;)
It's not easy following Francks act....but I figured I would post the progress on my cab interior.
This is about 16 hours of fussing. The transmission housing is made of styrene (hollow underneath to fit the drive. The outer edges were radiused by sanding, then 2 compund sculpting putty was abpplied into all the interior corners to mimmich casting radiuses. Once the putty was dry and sanded even, Mr. Surfacer 500 (from a bottle) was stippled on using a stif brush, to represent a sand/casting texture. this was then smoothed to various degrees (EI. more at edges where wear from boots would occur) to soften & vary the texture. Bolts heads consist of modified Grandt nbw's, and etched brass pieces from an Eduard PE set. All the rivets (.018 & .023 dia) were made using a Waldron punch & die set. The arced "rain/drip gutter) is made of .005 styrene, and will eventually shield the gauges. Still lots to do here.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_135GasMech_CabInt1.jpg&hash=86179c466532b1fc04ed3c6c857863951b4a87d5)
Marc
Good stuff. I like the texture on the gearbox and the whole unit looks very believable. Look forward to the paint job.
Looking good! Love the brass PE nbw's, not so sure about the oversize one in the back sticking up?.....
I'm guessing you like the rivet tool? Loose many?
-Marty
Marty,
If I were to guess, the big one looks like a plug for the transmission fluid fill and drain. I am sure that Marc could shed more light on this.
Frank
Wow Marc, I like very much! Especially the general rendering ;)
For a freelance model, the transmission housing, gear lever, and clutch pedal are very realistic! What did you used for the gear lever?
That's why I like freelance model now, you are not obliged to respect exactly the real model or the original model, and in the same time you have a nice model and realistic model!
Good stuff Marc!
Franck
Thanks Guys. Much appreciated.
Marty: I love my two punch & die sets....makes life so much easier, and has really opened up detailing options and opportunities. I actually loose far fewer than I did cutting individual ones of sprues, as I don't need to worrky about a "crooked/skewed" cut.....and if I do lose some...no big deal...just punch a few more ;D. Mind you it is not the "end-all" tool....as round and conical rivets still need to be applied where they are more suitable/visible....what I like though is the variety I can get with the die-set...the smallest is .018...which is great for so many things like screw heads, sheet metal fasteners...and even for just plain more "in scale" detail...since one punches these out of varying thicknesses of styren, one can also get more realitic depth/protrusion...or simple "visual read"...and for flatter sheet metal rivets one can easily add a crown/soften the rivet with some sandpaper or a fiberglass brush....screws & countersung screws can easily be made by simply splitting the punched disks.
BTW...Frank is spot on on the big oversize one....I figured there would likely be an easily accessible fluid plug....so I tried to emulate that.
Franck: Lots of looking at photos and guessing ;)...I would probably have configured it a bit narrower, and slightly differently, but it had to be that size to cover/receive the drive unit. The shift lever is out of my scrap 1/35 parts box...I think it came from one of those cheap models (Eastern Express?), of a Russian GAZ or ZIS.
I still need come up with some kind of "speed control" lever (as the pedal on the transmission is the clutch), and something (lever or foot pedal) to operate the sanding boxes)...there will probably also be some sort of small electrical or fuse box on the cab wall interior which will have a conduit running to a rear light location......but I need to step back and think those parts through...so I will likely start on the seat, and modifying the vacuum-form machine, so i can make the rear wall.
Marc
Guys, more wonderful work so creative. Marc, you just mentioned a vacuum form machine, I have to admit I've heard the term before but don't have a clue what it is? Can you enlighten me?
Franck, in the latest pictures you showed us around the base of your transmission box is what looks like a kind of "silvery paste" for the lack of any other word. I'm guessing this is used to simulate grease and so forth building up around this area, what exactly is it? Thanks again for sharing, Pat
Quote from: Belg on October 02, 2008, 01:13:37 PM
Franck, in the latest pictures you showed us around the base of your transmission box is what looks like a kind of "silvery paste" for the lack of any other word. I'm guessing this is used to simulate grease and so forth building up around this area, what exactly is it? Thanks again for sharing, Pat
Pat, the "silvery paste" isn't to simulate grease ;) It's simply low temp soldering to simulate the transmission casting aspect :
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bernardjunk.fr%2FPhoto%2520B%2520Daillan%2520%252305.jpg&hash=7fe2171fe8890cf5e26ab0ba126c123408d7cf28)
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Pat,
In a very basic nutshell; a vacuum form machine molds (forms) heated (softened) styrene, acrylic, buturate, etc., sheet over a mold-form/template/object. The softened material (which is mounted in a clamping frame) is dropped onto the form, and the air is sucked out from under it through small holes in a table/surface (not unlike the surface of an air-hocky table), this then forms/sucks the softened material tight against the form, and when cooled, it will retain that shape.
I am working on modifying one of the old Mattel machines that they sold in the 70's (?) [before all this overprotected child cr**], by removing the very basic, and somehwat inefficient hand pump, and attaching a shop-vac. This should give me strong & constant pressure (hopefully not too much, otherwise I will need to shift to a cheap houshold vac.)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimage.timepassagesnostalgia.com%2Fwatermarked%2Fimages31%2F3157vacuform.jpg&hash=ec3e47703f9f86f97871335e7ba387ed62e4119a)
When I get to the point of doing it I will post an SBS of the forming process and results. I first need to make the "postitive" form (the back of the cab) out of wood, over which to draw the styrene. I also need to make/prep some .010 styrene sheet, so that it will fit into the Mattel clamp system.
Marc
Franck...great pics....just what I needed! Thanks!!
BTW., in your photos, am I correct in assuming that the large hand-lever at the right side is for braking, and that the small lever on the front wall (bulkhead) is for speed control in forward and reverse?
...if not, could you clarify what these levers do?
Thanks
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 02, 2008, 01:50:43 PM
BTW., in your photos, am I correct in assuming that the large hand-lever at the right side is for braking, and that the small lever on the front wall (bulkhead) is for speed control in forward and reverse?
Thanks
Marc
The large hand lever at the right is for braking, and the small lever on the front wall is only for speed control...The reverse lever is in front of the seat... ;)
Franck
Thanks Franck.
Marty, here is another good use I am putting the punch-sets to. This is the joint reinforcing on the underside of a 1/48 scale Tiger tank sponson. By setting up a simple guide jig with two pieces of styrene attached with double stick tape, I am able to get the edge pattern and holes, by simply sliding a styrene strip through the jig, and punching at the needed locations. [The set on the left is the Waldron "Micro" set, the one on the right is the one from Micro-Mark].
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_Tiger%2FMR_Tiger_PunchDetail.jpg&hash=f4fc756472aa5945593c3dcfe946928d5684df8f)
Marc
guys, thank you for the info and I look forward to seeing your creation Marc, Franck thanks for the proto shot it really showed what you were going for and accomplished. Pat
I remember the Vac-U-Form. And the multi-shop woodworking thing. I used the disk sander from that for years in modelling.
Marc
Transmission is just a thing of beauty. You always seem to amaze people with what you'll come up with in ways to do things and to the detail. Just another outstanding job by you.
Jerry
Marc,
I was the M in MAC Mfg. and we did things with vacuum formers that GE was trying to get in our back room to see how we did it, as they claimed it couldn't be done. If I might make a suggestion on your vacuum former. Make yourself a dump (vacuum) tank and pump that down with your pump. Then use that to form your plastic. When you set the plastic on your mold, you want to shock it into place as fast as possible before it starts to cool. This will allow you to use a weak supply and still get good molding. Also, play with your heat source to get the heat on the plastic as even as possible. You will probably find the emphasis should be toward the outside edge.
John
Marc,
Back to the model.
that "fill plug" is still bothering me.
The hex part should be larger than the other hardware and the washer should be almost the same size as the bolt head.
looking forward to the vac form SBS.
-Marty
Very interesting John. Thanks for the info and input.
Quote from: John McGuyer on October 03, 2008, 09:19:56 PM
Make yourself a dump (vacuum) tank and pump that down with your pump. Then use that to form your plastic.
Not youte sure what you man by this. I don't think I hvae many options, this is the most basic of set-ups. I removed the pump handle/lever and the disk with the seal attached to it (which when when pushing the lever downd created the Vacuum/suction...it was just a single stroke type of event)..that left the short section of tube in which the gasketed disk was located. It is to this tube, that I am planning to attach the shop-vac/vacuum cleaner hose.
Quote from: John McGuyer on October 03, 2008, 09:19:56 PM
Also, play with your heat source to get the heat on the plastic as even as possible. You will probably find the emphasis should be toward the outside edge.
The heating module on these is pretty basic. It is backwards from what I am used to using in the large (real-life) machines. Here the plastic, which is clamped/pinned into swinging/pivoting frame sits above a metal plate area (the herting element surface) wmen the plastic is soft enough (can be pretty well determined by the sag)...the frame is swung over and down onto the form and perforated vacuum platform/surface. Unfortunately as this is really justa kids"toy" there is really no way I can see to create any control over the equality of heat distribution, nor the temp, on the heating surface.
The machines I am/was used to using were the ones that held a large sheet of material in a frame over the forming table, with the heating element being above the material.....then when the material was ready, you tripped the release, and the frame/material snapped quickly, straight down, onto the forming surface. Those had both rehostat control for the heat, and vacuum/suction control.
Marc
Marty,
Give it a chance......I think part of the issue is just the color, which makes it stand out moer prominently. If it still looks bad after paint, I'll replace it.
Marc
Pedants Corner .
As a complete mechanical ignoramouse I would have thought that if you are going to have the transmission fluid plug at the top there ought to be some sort of dip stick as well so that it is possible to know how much fluid is in there .Making it less likely to be overfilled .
All the gearboxes on the cars that I have owned have had the plug on the side of the housing making it impossible to overfill . Of course , on your loco access would be a problem if the fluid plug was on the side of the housing, so it has to be at the top .Don't get rid of it , no matter what Mr.Jones says !
Just a thought to make your life even more complicated.
Nick
Nick, I have original gearboxes drawings from Plymouth and Whitcomb and the tramission fluid plug is always at the top of the gearboxes... ;)
Sunday I set to work trying to Vacuum-form the rear cab bulkhead....so here is the long & drawn-out process.
First step was to make the perforated .010 styrene sheets that would fit the VF's frame. To do this I used an original sheet of .020 that had come with it when i purchased it.
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Next I made the "positive", over which the styrene would be formed, and attached it to the VF's surface using some double stick tape. This was made/milled on the X/Y table, to make sure all sides were parallel and square to eachother. (I made the positive out of 1/4" Poplar sanded to a 600 finish; I would have preferred a wood like Jelutong but used what I had handy.) Extra "suction holes" were drilled along the base of the "positive" to ensure tight and proper forming.
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The positive and the styrene were placed into the VF, and the the styrene was heated by the heating element......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508d.jpg&hash=221ee74693601f531fc372be8cc27129affeeb61)
....it pretty quickly became evident that the heating element was not going to generate enough heat to do what I needed (IE. soften the plastic enough)....but after a while I went ahead and swung the sheet down over the "positive" anyway.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508e.jpg&hash=22989500eb9b6b19c9810408d8c782e19e35398f)
....The styrene was not having any of it....it refused to pull down more than the slightest bit before it cooled....so I decided to give it a little help using a heat gun......which helped a bit.... but not enough as you can see.
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The piece above clearly pointed out some problems with what I was trying to do.
A. The heating element did not get hot enough.
B. The "positive" was too deep and long for the size of the plastic sheet and forming surface.
C. The heat gun needed to be used with care, or it would cause the styrene to curl/deform incorrectly.
This is evidenced by the stress tenting at the corners, and even after help with the heat gun....which caused holes at the corners, and unwelcome "thinning" of the styrene at the bend/edge/
Since my time was running out with this, I devised a veryt quick and improvised sollution. I merely duct taped the entire VF surface insert with the positive, tirectly onto the shop vac nozzle.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508g.jpg&hash=f297eb63b8ad7f60326a0101760ede6e4bde7fe8)
....I then simply laid a piece of styrene over it, and blasted it with the heat gun....ooooops.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508h.jpg&hash=95df70d8985ab0a87a4e5bcd8647e4d0a8a20969)
.....the next sheet was angle cut at the corners (to alleviate an "stress tenting").....and loosly held in place over the VF bed, with some photographic tape.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508i.jpg&hash=c3132b96b1239f52a50ce35fb97ea129d7ac8b1c)
....this resulted in the three remaining pieces giving me usable formed blanks (shown here after most of the excess has been trimmed)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508j.jpg&hash=577babf93114144737f4cacd8a3b300163b079e0)
These blanks were then cut to size and shape, using the "positive" as a backing to hold them true and ridgid during cutting and drilling.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508a.jpg&hash=8907e83c3a17b25a3bf0e0e89d5d2ea5bc39a11d)
And here is the final rear bulkead with some of the additional detailing.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_136GasMech_090508k.jpg&hash=2d942b5145adc754ae8a58c0430b20720cdf7e0a)
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In the end, aside from the bulkead....which I feel was a sucess....out of this also came some good ideas/info, on how I can quickly and easily make future basic vacuum form shapes, and my own forming surface. I hope to try this some more on future projects.
Marc
Ok...I need some input please from you guys that are familiar these types of locos....what duy you think about this seat option. It is based on the ones found in some of the Jenbachs (I have also seen sim in other locos) the seat is about 18" (45cm) wide x 16" (40cm) deep. There is a piano hinge detail at the back, where the lid/seat top would flip up to access the tool/storage box. [If I use this style seet does it require some kind of bracing underneath...like a diagonal support?] The other seat option I am considering is sim, but without the toolbox, underneath where the seat flips up against the wall if the engineer wants to stand rather than sit.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_135GasMech_Seat1.jpg&hash=ff8c6fda0f80aad65b8fa77ddf1f68aa6a6600b0)
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Marc
Marc,
After seeing the VF process you went through, I better understand what it was you were trying to achieve. What would have you done previously...butt join edge, add filler and sand to curve? or just heat the styrene and bend across an edge? Makes brass etch even sound easier! Glad you got the result you were after in the end. Certainly looks like a clean finish.
Without being an expert on these loco's I think from a visual perspective, I like the idea of the toolbox seat, and yes, with the diagonal strut underneath. Nice worn leather cushion on the seat with a bit of a rip, maybe some tape across it as a temporary repair etc etc. There lies the beauty of this type of loco, they were smaller enough for any manor of modifications to be quite quickly and simply done in the local shops. If you dont actually have a reference shot to a prototype this is specifically meant to be, almost anything is possible I guess.
Dan
Marc,
seeing the proportions and shape of your form, it is no wonder the material got torn, deformed and showed holes.
It is like pressing steel. Rounded forms and minimum radii ( depending on material elasticity) are a must
and the depth is important in relation to the thickness of the sheet and the clamping force around the edges.
Jacq
Great SBS Marc,
I think we all learned something!
As far as the seat goes "I" think the fold up (and outta da way) seat is more practical, especially on a cab of this size.
BTW- she is looking real sweet!
-Marty
Thanks for that Marty, that ought to make Marc toss and turn in his sleep for a few nights deciding on that one...seat goes up, seat goes down, seat goes up, seat goes down ??? ??? ???
Dan
Dan
Yes, previously I would probably have tried butt-joining and then radiusing/easing the outside edge. My issue with that approach was several fold, foremost being structural integrity, as the material was quite thin (.010). When butting there is always a chance of not having a perfectly clean seam, where some filling is required, and beween that and the radiusing, I felt there was not enough strength to withstand the necessary handling involved; also in the long term there is a good chance that these individual sheets would slightly deform, and suffer from normal expansion/contraction, and thus there was a good chance that this seam would open. Yes it could have ben rectified by adding an angle piece on the interior...but that sort of defeated the look ;).
IMO bending the styrene across an edge is always a tricky proposition, if you are lucky enough not to have the styrene split/crack, because of the hard bend, there is usually the problem of still having too much tension, and always wanting to spring back a bit...even if the bottom were edges were secured//glued in place....the top of the sides would likely always have at least a slight outward flare.
...and heat bending; though a very realistic solution for such a simple shape, for me it would probably have been about the same amount of work, but with less accuracy, and possibly a bit less crispness to the edges. I would have had to rely in perfectly aligning the two bends, getting the perfect width, and applying equal heat and pressure to both sides...which is doable...but would likely take a few tries also. :)
The beaty of the VF'd pieces is that they are quite strong and ridged, and the are perfectly square and flat, and I have absolutely no worries about handling them.
Jacq
Yes, Live-and-Learn ;) ;D....I figured from the onset that this would possibly be a problem....but as I had the VF machine (which is now in the trash) I had to give it a try anyway. ;D
Marty
Thanks.
Yup...still pondering that seat...though if I do a fold-up...I will need to build all the hinge pieces, the stepped/toothed adjustable brace rail, and then a tool box on the cab floor......all of which is not the easy way out ;) ;D
Marc
Quote from: danpickard on October 07, 2008, 12:09:46 PM
Thanks for that Marty, that ought to make Marc toss and turn in his sleep for a few nights deciding on that one...seat goes up, seat goes down, seat goes up, seat goes down ??? ??? ???
Dan
HEY!!!!....Stop encouraging him! You guys are just plain evil! ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Hang on, I've changed my mind and I like Marty's idea...sounds like it might be harder ;D
Dan
But hang on, I like my idea with the toolbox seat, more scope for character, and you could still build an "extra" toolbox to put under the seat, along with a few spare rags, oil can, bit of chain, engineers lunchbox, maybe a nice warm jacket hanging over the back of the cab wall...now we thinkin' ::) ;D
Dan
Maybe the seat should have your patent Kotex "stuffing" showing too?
Boy...everybody's a comedian! ;) ;D ;D ;D
What started out as a "quickie" project on which to exeriment some painting techniques, it urely has developed into the "Nightmare on Elm Street" ;D ;D......for all the complaining I get about never finishing anything, you guy's aren't exactly helping much ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D.
Marc
Yeah, and all I was going to do was give that tractor a spritz of Dullcoat and throw on some powders!
Nice job Marc!
I like very much your rear bulkhead. I understand now why you want to test vacuum technique...About bending, I had the same problem recently as you on my last model in Gn15, with .010" styrene sheet...if you fold too hard the sheet, you will obtain cracked or fissured part especially when you use very fine sheets...And .010" sheet in 1:35 scale is nearly overscale for a bulkhead...0.006" will be closer to the scale, and with this thickness, the styrene is not appropriate any more on a mechanical point of view! That's why, I used now for a long time (but not for my Gn15 model, it would be entirely built in styrene sheet), .15mm or .2mm phosphorous bronze sheet which makes it possible to respect these various thicknesses of sheets compared to the scale, while remaining mechanically strong and resiliant...
I like the seat, but very often on this type of little gas loco, the seat isn't a metal sheet, but wood, with brackets underneath on the rear bulkhead...The toolbox under it, is a good idea!
Franck
Marc,
In defence of ourselves, you did ask the question. I'm with Chuck, dullcoat and powders, leave for 10 minutes to dry ;D
I suppose I should point out that it still will probably look good with or without the seat. And thanks for the info about working with the styrene/bending etc. Always thorough with the details. Cheers.
Dan
Now that the server is responding again....
Marc, I've formed styrene in the past by using a die to push softened sheet through a matching aperture in a piece of wood. It works reasonably well with 0.5mm sheet, but might be a bit too vicious for the 0.25mm stuff.
The hinged seat is rather unlikely. On the real thing the seat was invariably fixed, usually with a wood top to provide some vague semblance of comfort, as Franck has already noted. Jenbachs varied, depending on the size of loco. On the 15 and 20 horsepower locos the seat was usually in one corner, with the handbrake in the other corner. This is a JW15.
Marc
You encountered exactly what I was talking about with the dump tank on the vacuum former. Speed while the plastic is at its max temperature is the name of the game. If you can, put some sort of a chamber between your vacuum former and shop vac. That way when you place the plastic over the mold, the air will be vacated rapidly by the vacuum in the tank and it will pull into those corners better.
John
On Jung locos the seat was more substantial. Mounting a toolbox on the back of the loco as on the other Jung is also rather good.
Of course, there were some more up-market locos with padded seats (still fixed, though) for greater comfort.
A reasonable number of locos had a tool compartment hinged at the top, like this O&K, but they were usually set up so that the operator sat side-saddle, rather than facing forward.
Kevin
Thanks for all the info and great photos. Yep...the dreaded "off center/corner seat" or the "side-aaddle" set-up....buth of which have been haunting me since the beginning. Unfortunately because of my already established clutch pedal and other lever locations/arrangement, I am going to have to stay with the center seat....though even uo until I glued it on, I was still trying to figure a way to do the corner. Maybe on the next one.
John
Ahhh.... now I get what you were after. Thanks. On the second jerry-rigged set-up, it was OK, because I had the vac on even before I began heating the plastic with the heat gun. This way as soon as it sobegan softening it began sucking down/forming.
Dan
Sure...throw it back at me ;D ;D ;D
Frank
I agree metal is the best way....unfortunately I am extremely horrible at anything having to do with soldering or metal work.....and I don't seem to have the patience to learn. Maybe some day :-\ .
Chuck
You did use pigments...it was just all the in-between and other steps that got in the way ;) ;D
I think the rear cab wall detailing is pretty much done. I now need to do the toolbox latch, then finish the remaining levers & controls, and then I think I will be ready to start with painting....and making some of the small details like the tool box, bucket, and seat cushion.
........hmmm maybe some antlers, and some chains draped over the bonnet ;D ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Quote........hmmm maybe some antlers, and some chains draped over the bonnet
That'll be funner. You'll be posting the rest of this thread on the On30 Conspiracy then?
Great photos, Kevin!
Marc, I wonder how you can modulate a pink loco? Even funner!
Oooh Pink... ;D
M
Quote from: Krusty on October 08, 2008, 05:30:51 AM
That'll be funner. You'll be posting the rest of this thread on the On30 Conspiracy then?
;D ;D ;D
M
WHEW!...I think I will be able to save face using the metal seat.....or at least I have found something to back up a lame excuse ;) ;D ;D.
Note at the very top in the Photo (this is a Jenbach JW10A) there is a sheet matal cover UNDER the wood seat planks....so....errr...."my planks fell off". ;D ;D ;D (At least this image now explains why the Jenbach drawings I was referring to showed a sheet metal seat ::) )
I am sure you guys are all pretty bored of seeing pics of this thing, so here finally is the completed build, before going to paint. It only took 11 weeks and close to 200 rivets....but I actually got something finished ;D.
For it's size and simplicity, this turned out to be a really good learning/growth project. I got to buy and use punch-and-die sets, I got to experiment with home vacuum forming, and at the very end I even got to experiment with soldering brass using paste solder...........and I got a lot of great help, input, and participation from you all here. Thanks!......All-in-all the kind of stuff I am after whenever I tackle a project.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_135GasMech_FinBld1.jpg&hash=3c480d0dcc6793d7e0935fbf332e79c55576fbfd)
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The next step will be to wash the sub assemblies with warm water & dish soap, and then apply the primer coats.
Marc
Hi Marc,
Wow, very, very good stuff! I like very much and you have done remarkable work! I like too the throttle lever...
Where did you find the brake lever? Precision Scale?
One thing : It would be nice if you add an instrument panel on the front bulkhead ;)
Quoteso here finally is the completed build, before going to paint. It only took 11 weeks and close to 200 rivets....but I actually got something finished
Marc, you've certainly succeeded in making a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Looking forward to the paint job.
Outstanding, and yes please walk us through the paint and finishing processes.
Marc,
Excellent job on the build. True craftsmanship at its best!!! ;D Looking forward to the painting of this beauty.
Frank
Thanks guys,
All your input, critique and encouragement has been a great help and motivator.
I do plan on further boring you with some form of painting SBS.
Franck: Yes, the lever is from PSC....I can't recall the part number (I will check the catalog).....I just by chance happened to find it the other day while at the hobby shop and going through their PSC drawers (they usually have everything except for the parts I need ;D).....I did modify the lever by cutting off the linkage and remainder of the handle below the ratchet.
Marc
Marc,
great job on the build sofar. I'm curious on the paint job. Is it goine be all rusty and weathered or will it look like its just out of the factory? ;)
Leon
Leon,
I think it will likely fall somewhere in between.....not much rust...but sort of a well used, but maintained loco. The hard part at the moment is trying to decide what kind of industry she is serving (IE. quarry, brick works, peat, or just a loco used for shunting around a dusty/grimy factory)....as this will determine how dirty and worn to make her.
Marc
I was chomping at the bit to make some progress on this build, but in doing so I almost screwed it up. The air here is still so dry, that the primer was starting to dry even before it hit the surface.....The only thing that saved my butt was the way Mr. Surfacer "sucks" down to the surface and almost seems to level itself out when dry.
Here is the model after two coats of "Mr Surfacer 1200" primer (with some light filling and sanding after the first caot). Unfortunately the primer has brought out many of the small air bubble holes in the poor quality resin castings...some I filled, others are just to much of a pain to deal with cleanly (and new ones keep coming up when sanding in areas).....so I will hopefully be able to integrate and conceal these during the painting and especially the weathering stages.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Critter%2FMR_GasMech_1029c.jpg&hash=8b90409f83c2d1030e204e86fd11e4b378b45529)
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Now to decide on the color of purple and dark green to use for the next step.
Marc
Nice to see some progress on this.
You know I have a fondness for critters!
Glad the primer is okay, when will you ever be able to do color?
Speaking of which, dont you mean green and yeller?
p.s. you gonna paint up that figure from the initial posts?
-Marty
Green and Yeller!?...this aint the Conspiracy man....its all abou "trippin" colors here daddy-o. ;D...don't be bogartin my psychadelic high ;D ;D
They keep saying the weather is supposed to change...but that has been going on for weeks now.....Weathermen are really just one step above the denizens of the "short bus". The real issue is that I need to shoot Vallejo....and even under ideal conditions they dry fast. I am trying not to get involveed with using retarder, as it just adds one more thing to the mix.
Paint my figure!....no way....not after the comments and critiques I made about yours....I know when to cover my rear ;) ;D
Marc
Nice job Marc!
You gave me inspiration with this little gas loco for my mining layout ;) Richard Denot (SBLC) launched a new run of his kit, with some improvements like a new hollow bonnet...
What did you used to lock the panel on the bonnet of your model? I found nice plastic wing nut from Model Kasten...
I also bought the little critter from Sidelines in Gn15, but they are a perfect base for 1:35 scale...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.levelz.co.uk%2Facatalog%2Fhornet01s.JPG&hash=fb08ade939927987b1643ee693703eac31f6583f)
http://www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/catalogbody.html&CatalogBody
http://www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/catalogbody.html&CatalogBody
Franck
Marc,
If dry air is a problem for the painting of your loco just send it over here as the air here is very damp and cool ! I promise I'll look after it very well on my soon to be built 1/35th layout !
Nick
I would actually consider that (once it's painted though).....the problem is that I need to start stockpiling finised models for the 2013 NNGC, which is here in Pasadena. I figure if I enter everything I built from when I started modeling up until then, say about 10 models, I might have a chance at a third place. ;D
Marc
Third Place ? In your dreams ! You only stand a chance of winning anything if you there are alot of chains and antlers in evidence.
2013? Will that give you enough time to finish anything ? ...Just asking,
Nick
Now, now, young Nick. That was SO uncalled for. Everybody knows Marc once finished a model. I think it took six months and was back around 1998. The model did have a chain but no antlers. It won the Westlake Publishing award for "Best Use of Cheese". So go stand in the corner. You have been very naughty. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on October 31, 2008, 12:44:48 PM
Now, now, young Nick. That was SO uncalled for. Everybody knows Marc once finished a model. I think it took six months and was back around 1998. The model did have a chain but no antlers. It won the Westlake Publishing award for "Best Use of Cheese". So go stand in the corner. You have been very naughty. -- Russ
Aw Shucks , Mistah Russ, I is sorry. I dint mean nutting. I was jus joshin' .
Nick (admitting to himself that it probably isn't a good idea for a Limey to try and imitate someone from the Deep South, but went ahead and did it anyway)
Oh fine...if that's the way you guys are going to be :'( :'( ;) ;D....... here is some progress with the first painting steps.
Since the "Color Modulation approch/concept is something new to me (Read: I haven't a clue of what I am doing), I decided to focus on the frame, and some detail work first so I went through my paints, and pull the colors I thought would work for the process, and for what I envisioned the end result to be. I then began to make a swatch chart of the colors staright from the bottles, and then some mixed colors using different ratios and combinations to get some of the desired/needed colors.
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#1, is Vallejo #814 "Cadmium Umber Red", this I decided was going to be the dark starting point for the process, and would in part also double as the "Pre-Shading" step I usually do at this point.
#2, will be the eventual intended "main/primary" color of the frame. (This is a mix of 3 parts #908 "Carmine Red", 1 part #946 "Dark Red", and 1 part #829 "Purpleheart Red")
#3, is sort of an "Old Rust" color I needed for areas where parts had been removed from the loco and the exposed unpainted metal had oxidized over time (This is a mix of 5 parts #814 "Burnt. Cadmium Red", 2 parts #822 German Camo Black-Brown, 2 parts #829 Purpleheart Red)
...and here is the result:
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I was only so-so satisfied with the paint finish...it feels a bit "heavier" than I would probably have preferred. It was my first use of the new airbrush, and combined with the Vallejo's proved an interesting learning curve. :-X ;D
Marc
I have only a vague idea of where you are headed with this, Marc, so it will be instructive to see what happens next. Last time you used this approach, I think you were building a tank and I remember how beautiful the finish was.
What is the advantage of Vallejo acrylics in this instance; why do you prefer them? And, as you go along, please explain why you have taken each step. This could be a very useful clinic.
Russ
Thanks Russ.
I am doing this model as my entry/participation in the MIG Forum "Color Modulation Contest". This is actually a different approach from the tank you are referring to (where I was trying to represent an overpainted old vehicle)......The theory, approach, and an SBS example, of "Color Modulation" can be read/seen here:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2006 (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2006)
This is actually not that good of a subject for color modulation the way it was intended/conceived, as it has many small parts, and undercuts, (the process works better on vehicles with larger surfaces and planes), however, as this is a new approach & technique for me, I am also hoping to try and see if it can be used/adapted and/or modified to work on something like this. Part of the affect of modulation is the subsequent belnding and transition of the shades, values and colors with filters, washes & weathering.......thus the reason for it working on larger surfaces & planes.....that is not easy or necessarily even that feasable on areas like the Gas Mech frame.
There is a huge chance that thinks will not go the way I planned or hoped......but we will have to see as things progress. ::)
Up till now, I have primarily been using Tamiya for airbrushing, and the Vallejos for paintbrush work, however for this project I went with the Vallejo paints as they have a much greater and diverse color selection than Tamiya. Vallejo are a wonderful paint...especiall for brushwork, they have very fine pigment, provide great coverage, and go on very smooth. They work well for airbrush also, once you get used to thinning them to the right consistancy, and used to spraying them. (if not careful, they can dry/settle rather quickly in the airbrush workings)....and unlike Tamiya, they are completely water soluble. There is a line of Vallejo called "Model Air", that are specifically made (anc come already prethinned) for use in an airbrush....however, the color selection is not nearly as extensive. [And for those who are thinking of recommending Polly-Scale as a Vallejo option......don't even think of it....Polly-Scale are like kiddie poster-paints in comparison.)
My problem today was getting the right consitancy (it was running to thin/wet, and kept beading on the primer), and getting the feel for the airbrush & trying to get the hang of the settings & adjusments. I had been using a Paasche VL, (double action) previously......Now the new one is an Iwata Highline HP-CH...
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...which has a really great feel and some wonderful fine tuning, the detail work and finesse possible is worlds above the VL.......and thus als a whole different animal from the VL...so I should probably have practiced a bit before I started in on this ::)
I will post SBS pics as I progress. The next step though is back to work on the color chart for the upper portion color(s). I probably won't be spraying again till next weekend.
Marc
(PS. I am trying a sim approach on the Molino Car in the FMW challenge....also shot the base color on it today while I was at it.)
QuoteThere is a huge chance that thinks will not go the way I planned or hoped......
Very often the results of these ( partly controlled) efforts are the best ;D ;D
A very nice "clinic" on NEW airbrush use I am following with a lot of interst. My old airbrush(es)
are in for replacement. Your "show" can have a large influence on my choice.
Jacq
Marc -
I'll second the endorsement on the Iwata - the real-time control is excellent so that, with practice, one can modify the application to suit the particular part of the model being painted at that instant.
But you're a braver man than I to give it a shakedown on a newly minted model! Scraps from plastic model kits are my usual test track!
Mark
Mark:
I think "brave" is too kind and an overstatement....."impatient" and "reckless", are probably more appropriate. ;D
On the subject of Russ's questiona re. Vallejo colors, for those that are interested, here is a link to an online PDF of color comparisoon charts for the various Vallejo Paints to other Mfrs. as well as prototype color standards (RAL/RLM/FedStd.)....a really extensive 20 or so page reference.
http://www.portaldemodelismo.com/vallejo/documentacion/CatalogoModelismoEquivalencias.pdf (http://www.portaldemodelismo.com/vallejo/documentacion/CatalogoModelismoEquivalencias.pdf)
And for those interested in more info about the Vallejo lines and their color charts, here is a link to their home page.
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/ (http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/)
Here is a direct link to the Valljo "Model Color" color chart.
http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_carta.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1&p4=0 (http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_carta.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1&p4=0)
Marc
Marc,
I use Vallejo paint for a very long time and they are excellent acrylic paint. About thinning, I asked Vallejo directly...
You may dilute Model Color with water, or with a waterbased thinner which is available in the range. The product does not contain any solvents except for the metal paints (alcohol base). Modelcolor is a waterbased emulsion of pigment and acrylic resin (and not a waterbased soluble like Tamiya or Gunze with alcohol), and would not react well with a lacquer thinner or alcohol. Alcohol can be used for special effects, but a priori it's not recommended for just simple thinning the color, no need.
I Use now for a long time a special medium to thin my paint, from Liquitex : the Airbrush medium
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.liquitex.com%2FProducts%2Fimages%2Fmediums%2Fairbrush.jpg&hash=3b4c2bbf4d64c2df286339f691749f65d9a38b17)
http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedairbrush.cfm
I thin my paint with 50% demineralized water (it's a minimum, add more if necessary, some colors may require more or less water) and adds one or two drops of Liquitex airbrush medium...And I have any problem with my Aztek metal and 0.3 nozzle...Once thinned, your paint must have the consistency of milk.
Franck
FWIW there were some comments on Missing Links a while ago to the effect that Vallejo cured slightly tougher with its own thinner than when thinned with water. The NZ Vallejo importer doesn't bother with the mediums or thinner (and only brings in a small selection of the colours >:() so I have no idea whether this is true or just an internet legend (the updated version of an urban legend).
Franck & Kevin,
Thanks for the input.
I generally always use the Mfr's recommended/supplied thinner.....despite all the options like washer fluid, alcohol, etc. that people may recommend, and say works...... I just generally feel/find iteliminates one source of potential trouble/problems in the painting and following weathering process.......The most I do is occasionally use lacquer thinner for some paints and techniques...and for final cleaning of the airbrush.
I did use the Vallejo thinner...but it was still a bit too thick in consistancy, so I added a few additional drops of filtered water....but it still was acting oddly......the problem was probably just airbrush operator error. ;) ;D
The Vallejo thinner is probably similar to the liquitex material....it looks as if it were simply the carrier solution, sans the pigment.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 04, 2008, 12:01:05 AM
The Vallejo thinner is probably similar to the liquitex material....it looks as if it were simply the carrier solution, sans the pigment.
You are right! It's exactly the same material (and the Liquitex is less expensive ;))! But I don't use only the Liquitex or Vallejo to thin my paint, and add demineralized water (distiled water would be better, but more expensive too, and I didn't find difference between the two) because this material can give a glossed appearance to the paint...
A bit of a step backward..... :-\
I just couldn't stomach the paint finish....so last night I soaked the frame in Iso Alc. & stripped it.......today it is back wit a new light coat of Mr Surfacer resin primer.
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Marc
Marc,
I just compared this photo with the one of the frame painted, it is amazing how much detail was hidden. I am sure you will do a terrific job with it now.
Frank
Marc,
Another tip with airbrushing vallejo paints. First make a mixture of 40% water and 60% air brush thinner (vallejo, liquitex, etc) in your paint cup and then add paint drops until the preferred consistancy, (milk). You may be doing this already and if so forgive my ignorance. Hope this helps.
Scott
Scott,
Thanks for the tip......I actually have not tried it in that manner...I tended to mix paint and thinner...then add water; so that could be contributing to the issues I was having.
Marc
So are we going with the same color(s) or a different scheme?
That previous color/finish left a lot to be desired...........
;D
-Marty
Marc,
After your primer coat, why don't you do a pre-shading?
Try several fine layers for the base coat color...! Add depth to the base coat color with the Hightlighting and shading technics...
And after, filters, pin washs, etc...
Franck
Marty,
Yep we are going to go with that color again. ;) There will not me that much of it noticeable in the end once the other color shades are aplied, and the filters, washes, fading and other weathering is applied.
Franck,
The method you suggest is my "usual" approach.....the modulation though seem to call for full coat.......but this time around I am going to do a combination of the two, and use the previos color in more of a "Pre-shade" application.
Having to start over also gave me the opportunity to rethink the approach to some of the details/painting sequence. This time around I am using Gum Arabic to mask the sections of the L-angle that is holding the cab walls to the deck, and the lever part of the brake lever, so I can later more easily spray them the green color. I have also decided to do/incorporate some of the hairspray chipping technique for the areas of heavy wear on the interior of the cab, back of the transmission, and around the coupler area.....so I need to lay down a dark grey and slightly oxidized color in those areas first. (then hairspray, then the "ugly red", and lastly the final color).
Marc
Before applying color this time, I decided to use brush apply Tamiya "Nato Black" into the radiator grille slits, into the recesses for the radiator and fuel fillir cap locations, into the stack hole, and into the top of the open sanding box. I used Nato black for this, as it is more of a dark grey, than a coomplete black...this makes the end appearance less jarring, and more in "scale".
This was followed by a brush application of Vallejo #862 "Black Grey", into the openings at the link-and-pin couplers.
Lastly came an airbrush application of #862 around the outside of the couplers, on the bak and sides of the transmission housing, on the floor of the cab, and on the top of the driver seat area.
.....then back to the color chart... ;D
This shows the three color combiation I was thinking of for the upper portion of the loco. [The yellow splatter is what happens when the Vallejo bottle tip clogs up...you squeeze too hard...and the entire tip explodes off! :o...I am still finding splatter in my work area. ::) )
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A view with the rear wall removed, showing the Dark Grey areas:
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And the rest of the views showing the application of the first colors. This time on the red, I decided to just use straight Vallejo #814 "Cadmium Umber Red", rather than the previous mixed color, as it will make for darker shading.
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Marc
I see said the blind man.
I think I am starting to learn more on this "modulation" thing.
I also think I am tonal challenged, kind of like color blind.
Looks much better, keep the sbs coming.
-Marty
Not bad. Not bad at all, especially at this stage. -- Russ
Had some time to paint today.
The next paint step was to apply a mix of 3-parts #908 "Carmine Red", 1-part #829 "Purpleheart Red", and 1-part #946 "Dark Red" , applying it so that it hit primarily the top and faces of the projecting parts, leaving the deeper areas, and areas that would be in shadow, in the base color.
Once dry, 1-part #918 "Ivory" was added to the above mix, and applied/shaded onto some of the furthest projecting faces, as well as top surfaces.
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Lastly some of the projecting top edges, surfaces, and details were picked out using a 10/0 brush applying a mix of 1-part #829 "Purpleheart", with 1-part #944 "Old Rose" Note also that the areas previously masked with Gum Arabic have been exposed.
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On the bonnet and cab sections, I felt some of the underside and lower areas needed a deeper color, or have a more "shadowed" appearance. For this a mix of 2-parts #904 "Dark Blue Grey", 1-part #862 "Black Grey", and 1-part #979 "German Camo Dark Green", was used.
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This was followed by an application of Tamiya XF-12.
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....hopefully some more tomorrow.
Marc
Okay, so it looks terrific. We all expected that. But how did you hold the model in one hand, the airbrush in the other, and the camera in yet another? Now THAT takes TALENT! -- Russ
That was my question . I suppose the airbrush was on a stand , the camera was on a tripod and the hand was attached to a dummy ! Ha , Ha ,
Nick
Nice color modulation Marc
The Tamiya XF 12 is good choice! ;)
Franck
The third hand is so I can give myself complimentary pats on the back (among other things ::)) while I am working.
Frank...I think I have 6 jars of it....I keep buying it by accident every time I'm out getting paints :-\
Today was an absolute f***ing nightmare......I was truly ready to hurl the model against a wall. (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fbanghead_125.gif&hash=7b70d6fbd2a9609b41d5d7633908a72e50b1ad82) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fbanghead_125.gif&hash=7b70d6fbd2a9609b41d5d7633908a72e50b1ad82) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fbanghead_125.gif&hash=7b70d6fbd2a9609b41d5d7633908a72e50b1ad82) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fcensored_125.gif&hash=8cec5a211417532a99edb08d403c1df1d4e578ce) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fcensored_125.gif&hash=8cec5a211417532a99edb08d403c1df1d4e578ce)
I worked on painting the upper portion...and just couldn't get it right.....first the modulatuon was to weak, then to strong, then too weak again!!!!......and to make it worse....it looks different in different light sources, or even just from different angles!!!
....I just had to STOP!....otherwise I was going to loose it...and after 4 layers of paint I was going to start losing detail sharpness. (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fbanghead_125.gif&hash=7b70d6fbd2a9609b41d5d7633908a72e50b1ad82)
I will post some pics as soon as I download them, and run them through PS.
Marc
....so here we go on toadays progress/fiasco.
The first step was to mask off the areas on the rear bulkhed that were to remain rust, and the 'L' Angle parts that will recieve the upper color.
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Once the 'L angles were masked, they received a quick brush application of #904 "Dark Blue Grey" (once dry this was then lightly sprayed from directly above with XF-12)
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The Bonnet section and the rear bulkhead were then sprayed from above at a slight angle, with a mix of 4-parts XF-12, and 1-part XF-1 "White" to accentuate the light modulation.
Once dry a 50/50 mix of Vallejo #971 "Green Grey", and #918 "Ivory" was brush applied to the top edges of the bulkheads, tops of handles & wing-nuts, bolts on transmission, levers, gauge drip guard.....and various other detail surfaces/edges.
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....and this is now where the project is at. I think I will call this phase done, and move on. I will try to add and accentute the modulation on the upper portions a bit more, during the application of the "filters".
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Marc
Any normal human would be pleased with those results. -- Russ
Great article, including the frustration.
Glad you didnt hurl it.
I tried some modulation on the front wall of the photo shop.......
Will see if I learned anything.
-Marty
Marc
Excellent how to-do-it, without hurling it onto the wall. Glad you didn't.
Beautiful air brushing and coloring.
Jerry
After the application of Red, yellow and blue filters, using Windsor Newton artists oils, as well as some panel fading using white artists oils.
I was also able to accentuate the modulation a slight bit, by the manner/direction in which the filters were aplied and layered. I did not "weep" the linseed oil from the Artists oils before applying the filters, as I wanted them to provide/leave a satin finish when dry....thus giving me a more realistic painted metal appearance, as well as providing contrast for the coming weathering steps.
In between waiting for the filters to dry I also started doing the chipping inside the cab area, as well as the handles on the bonnet.
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Marc
Looking much better!
Glad you are doing this SBS just ahead of me!
What is the preferred "sealer" over oils?
-Marty
Thanks Marty.
I generally never use sealer, though I am considering using the Vallejo "Satin" clear, on this. Not sure yet.
The other option would be the satin finish from ModelMaster (the petroleum based one, not the acrylic one).
Regardless, I am going to let the filters dry for a week or so before applying the sealer, if I do.
Marc
WOW, I am amazed! :o
Looks like a dream.
/Henrik
I have seen that little model up close, in person. It is a truly spectacular work of art, only about two inches long! Marc's photos show it pretty accurately and it is so tiny you really do need a macro lens or magnifying glass to appreciate its full elegance. -- Russ
So....nothing like stripping and starting over for the third time.....just for the fun of it. ::)
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Quote from: marc_reusser on February 18, 2013, 03:44:47 AM
So....nothing like stripping and starting over for the third time.....
... you did
WHAT? ... ??? :o
Yeah...decided I wanted it to be adifferent color.....am thinking Grey uppers w/red lower.
Quote from: marc_reusser on February 18, 2013, 03:53:46 AM
Yeah...decided I wanted it to be adifferent color.....am thinking Grey uppers w/red lower.
... ahhhh ... that makes quite a difference ... and I almost thought you made a preposterous decision basically caused of a rush of adrenaline, haste or maybe just cause you have lost your conkers ... ;D ::)
Nearly 5 years in and it's now back to primer ............... Makes me feel a bit better about some of mine ;)
The radical change in colour will be worth watching develop .................
Over next few years ;D
What do you use to strip off the paint? I'm preparing for my own do-overs.
I suggest you paint it with water colours so that it'll be easier to strip next time !
HUMBROL RULES and Mr Muscle oven cleaner always gets it off !!
Barney
with tank grey nostrils.
Marc, you've lost your mind again. But all this gives me an idea: Do you think I could strip off my finish and rebuild myself without weathering? -- Russ
Chuck; I used Iso Alchohol and a soft brush.......came of real easy. Also stripped 2 side tip cars that were painted with Floquil..no proble.
Quote from: gfadvance on February 18, 2013, 05:13:52 AM
Over next few years ;D
On the contrary.......I believe my deadline is June. AAAAAAAUGH!
...when is your dead-line, boy-o?
Russ.......some things are better left as curious relics, than restored and glossed over with a coat of paint.
Mark, even unpainted, I still love your little gas loco ;)
He is so cute!
Franck
Thanks Franck!
Was shooting rust on the Daihatsu, so I threw this in while I was at it.
Rust toned base coat: Water, Ground Sea Salt, 4-Colors, Windex and 40 mins.
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In case anyone is interested:
.....here is basically what I do/did.
Apply a dark solid base color over primer. Forthe base you can use the a 50/50 mix of the AK "Chipping Color" and "Shadow Rust", or a mix of Tamiya "Brown", "Black" and Yellow"......or whatever suits your taste.
When fully dry dampen or slightly wet the surface with a wide flat brush...this may take a few repeated strokes, to get the surface to wet evenly. Try not to have water pool in corners or around details.
Sprinkle ground sea salt in somewhat randomly...or in the pattern you want/need. (a small scoop can help place the salt more precisely if needed). I grind my sea salt in a salt grinder, and then grind it a little bit more with a mortar & pestle, to git more smaller (in scale) grains, and more variety.
You will likely not be a ble to wet and apply the salt over the entire model in one round. I break my models down into sections, until the model is covered as desired.
I prefer a different tonal variation than that straight from the set, so I mix a one of the daker tones with the next light one down (anywhere from 50/50 to 60/40)....I am working from dark colors toward light.
I roughly apply the first mix over the entire piece in a thin coat (I shoot at about 18-20 psi). Some salt will blow of, but not a big deal. I empty the AB cup, quick rinse with rag and Windex, put next color into AB...(Depending on how I feel, and how much salt is still on the model, I may lightly tap an edge or underside with a brush handle so some additional salt pieces fall off and expose the dark base tone).....Then shoot this second color in a somewhat random thin coat...but also if necessary keeping in mind where what rust tones might be desired on the final model..& if needed, what kind of oxidezed metal will be exposed in the final. I repeat the paint step one more time with tha last/lightes color mix.
I let the model dry for a couple of minutes while I clean/rinse the AB, and put the paints away, then take a soft 1/2" (1,25cm) wide brush,...and working over a small bowl of water....will dip the brush into the water, and use it to wash away the salt on the model. This wash seems to not only help remove the salt without scratching the surface or leaving behind a residue, but it also seems to ever so slighty soften some of the color edges, and remove any paint/overspray that is not fully adhered...thus givining some additional shading/variation to some of the rust tones.
Sorry this post was so long winded...tried to be thorough...it's much easier and faster than it looks. (I could probably have painted it in the time it took me to write this )
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 02, 2013, 11:06:46 PM
In case anyone is interested:
... definitely absolutely ... 8)
As I have not tried the salt technique yet I always wondered, if it would work as well whilst applying colour with a brush or sponge, as I don't have an airbrush ... ???
Cheers
Thanks for that Marc, I will be needing to do something like that soon.
Gerald,
I have done the salt technique before just using a sponge to apply the paint, the only difference is that instead of water I applied a coat of hair spray and when still wet put the salt on then gave another light mist of hair spray to help hold it in place.
It is not nearly as fine a technique or finish as you get with an airbrush but in larger scales it will work
Quote from: mad gerald on March 03, 2013, 05:18:49 AM
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 02, 2013, 11:06:46 PM
In case anyone is interested:
... definitely absolutely ... 8)
As I have not tried the salt technique yet I always wondered, if it would work as well whilst applying colour with a brush or sponge, as I don't have an airbrush ... ???
Cheers
Same question here Mark. Does this have to be done with an Air Brush???
An is this going to be finished this time? or are you going to erase and try again?
Excellent rust.
Jerry
Gordon,
Quote from: gfadvance on March 04, 2013, 07:43:16 AM
I have done the salt technique before just using a sponge to apply the paint, the only difference is that instead of water I applied a coat of hair spray and when still wet put the salt on then gave another light mist of hair spray to help hold it in place.
It is not nearly as fine a technique or finish as you get with an airbrush but in larger scales it will work
... thanks for additional input, tried hairspray technique once: worked great so far, but I treated to large areas at one time, so to much colour came off ... :P
Cheers
Well, apparently Gordon has much bigger Cajones than I do, because I would say that yes, this needs to be done with an airbrush.
...and I wll get soap-boxy and preachy here for a moment.....
I think that anyone that builds model at the level of the people in this forum (other than Chuck, 'cause he's a freak of nature) you need to be painting with an air brush. IMO not doing so will diminsh a good portion of the beautiful construction and detailing that went into building the model. They are not expensive, and are really simple to use...and will make a world of difference in your finished work.
....or to put it another way....
I never did and never wanted to work with brass in any way shape or form. I avoided it like the plague...but after seeing all this really superb metal work, and soldering here in the forum, I went out and bought a small torch and started playing around and using brass for some bits and pieces...and after Marty's post on the resistance set am even mor interested. So, if I can actually consider using metal and trying it here and there.....you guys should be equally willing/able to try an air brush ;) ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 05, 2013, 03:38:56 AM
So, if I can actually consider using metal and trying it here and there.....you guys should be equally willing/able to try an air brush ;) ;D ;D ;D
We all should face our demons now and then. For me, it's putting washes and streaks and grime on treasured models. But, with help from folks on this site, I am starting to face that demon.
Bill Martinsen
FWIW:
On the air brush.
I get mine at Michaels using the 40% off coupon.
I buy the best they have, which I'm sure is a POS in most folks eyes.
I treat mine very badly, dont clean it correctly and the one I use for solvent paint is now 10 years old!
Yes, I have one for acrylic and one for solvent.
I think they cost me about $40 when all is said & done.
I wont tell what I use for thinners, Marc would have an absolute conniption! or a stroke!
Speaking of, cant wait to see your first all brass model Marc! :D
-Mj
Quote from: lab-dad on March 05, 2013, 05:14:47 AM
Speaking of, cant wait to see your first all brass model Marc! :D
-Mj
Marty,
I wanted it to be something, that would be of interest to Russ, so I've got my best guy working on it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.inflightshutdown.org%2Fredbook%2FRBimages%2Fgoldfinger.jpg&hash=d28bb888fd5c9ee8532c178a5f955474c2ed401e)
Gaaak!! After reading your AB message, I think I am going to have to start an "Airbrush Rescue" association, for poor and abused airbrushes. ;D
Gonna need an alchemist to turn that gold into brass!
Could it be worse to be at Harbor freight trying to decide between the 4 dollar airbrush and the 12 dollar one?
C. Doan, FON ::)
Marc,
You could make him a brass thong! LMAO!
Chuck,
Get them both and a drum of chickenfat to thin with!
Mj
Founder of the "Airbrush Servitude Society"
Well, since we are talking airbrushing, I thought maybe this would be of use to someone. I have of recently been taking a new approach to painting with the AB. (I am sure some others probably already do this...but for me it hit me in the head like a brick, when I thought of/realized it.)
I have found that when doing the HS/resist chipping method, that working "backwards" with the colors works better for faded and certain chipped effects.
After applying the dark rust/brown base color, a coat of clear sealer, and the resist.....
...rather than applying the dark final/basic/intended color first, and then applying lighter shades over it in panel centers, surfaces that are to look faded, etc.;....work backwards.....apply a thin coat(s) of the light faded color(s) first, over the entire model, (then add/apply a layer of HS/resist) then fill in the final/base/intended color in the areas that you don't want fading and wear....IE in corners, around the perimeter of panels etc. [obviously you should check with your reference material to see where your fading occurs, or where you want it to occur]
....buy working in this reverse manner, you will end up with a thinner, and easier to chip layer of paint in the faded areas (which is where larger areas of wear and oxidation would likely start showing through) and it would also give you the faded/oxidized effect around the perimeter of larger rust areas. Lastly, when chipping through the darker/truer color areas, you will automatically end up with random areas of light highlight edges, or fading, around those areas as well. [you can also create some very interesting overall wear and fading using the reverse approach, when you wear/chip through only the dark layer, exposing the lighter one below.)
In contrast, if you work the regular way of dark paint first, then adding progressively lighter layers of fading; you need to add many more coats of paint in the exact areas, that you may want more chipping and wear, and this make the whole process more difficult and harder to control.
...anyway, this is the approach I used on the Daihatsu, and the two recent in-progress pieces for the demo. I will also be using it on this loco.
HTH
QuoteAn is this going to be finished this time? or are you going to erase and try again?
Excellent rust.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. Apparently, I have till the end of April to get it done, otherwise I will have a very PO'd guy in the rainy Pacific-NW giving me a call, or sending terse and sarcastic emails. ;D ;D
Marc' .................
One of the most basic tenets of Fine Art theory/practice is that when applying materials one adopts a methodology where:- Opaque is applied "Dark to Light" whereas anything Transparent is applied "Light to Dark"!
This is nothing new, and has been practised in some of the best studio's over the last 1000years, I automatically adopted it as a means, and it appears you're sooner or later going to arrive at the same conclusion.
Only the fear of appearing pretentious stopped me from mentioning it, but it's a sound technique that if you weren't aware of it ... it might be something to keep in mind as you work. It does enable one to adopt a regime or pragmatic approach that gives you a diagnostic ability should the effects wander from what it is you're trying to achieve.
Hell with all the answers I guess I should try the AB. I have one just have never used it.
So when we get some warmth here I'll give it a shot a let you see I progress.
I might even :o myself!!!!
Jerry
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 05, 2013, 03:38:56 AM
So, if I can actually consider using metal and trying it here and there.....you guys should be equally willing/able to try an air brush ;) ;D ;D ;D
Hi Marc,
I am following with great interest your airbrush work.
In my mine locomotive I will certainly not just paint with an airbrush, but try to be realistic so that the locomotive to make if it is soldered finished.
Quote from: Andi Little on March 06, 2013, 01:48:11 AM
Marc' .................
One of the most basic tenets of Fine Art theory/practice is that when applying materials one adopts a methodology where:- Opaque is applied "Dark to Light" whereas anything Transparent is applied "Light to Dark"!
This is nothing new, and has been practised in some of the best studio's over the last 1000years, I automatically adopted it as a means, and it appears you're sooner or later going to arrive at the same conclusion.
Only the fear of appearing pretentious stopped me from mentioning it, but it's a sound technique that if you weren't aware of it ... it might be something to keep in mind as you work. It does enable one to adopt a regime or pragmatic approach that gives you a diagnostic ability should the effects wander from what it is you're trying to achieve.
This is part of that "color theory" stuff isnt it? ;D ;D ;D
Thanks. Very interesting.
Marc on the basis you are on a roll regarding finishing stuff, thought you might be interested in this
http://www.james-art.com/product.php?id=33
note: he supplies this track in two different gauges
Thanks Gordon!
So decided I was out of time and needed to get moving on this build (only have about 18 days to finish). Used the AB chipping technique fom my two experiments for this. Result is so-so (more practice needed)....but think it will work just fine for the final project need/subject. other than the chipping, only a quick application of some AK "Dark Shading Grey" oils color, and one of the AK dark washes was used....also a mix of dark grey/brown/black pigments, and Abt502 "Engine Grease", and AK "Engine Grime", was used around/on the transmission box.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-prn1%2F46598_2947622305604_144371059_n.jpg&hash=7245a52758a52c75c7721b92765e6827180f064a)
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I like the colors/textures on the transmission.
hey mark
really nice finish.i have just come across your posting on the on the bachmann 1-35 conversion.
i liked it so much that i have bought the gas mechanial plus detail kit from backwood minitures,i want to make mine1-32 scale.
kind regards kim
Thank you Ray.
Thanks Kim. My Bmann conversion is actually 1/32, (don't tell Mr. Potato Head, or I'll never hear the end of it).......it worked out better to that scale than to 1/35. Look forward to seeing what you do with yours.
M
Marc, if you painted that superstructure in Europe then you are not only a genius but a magician. I assume you have returned home, therefore you are merely a genius. Most satisfactory.
Warning to Kim: Even if you have had no problem up to now, Backwoods Miniatures' owner is, uh, "integrity challenged". A word to the wise should be sufficient. I continue to warn people I like to avoid that wolf in sheep's clothing. (I would prefer to describe him -- perhaps "it" would be more fitting -- in more colorful terms but some of you already may think me the villain for what I have written. If that is your opinion let me assure you, you are completely wrong.)
Russ
FYI
MPH only has eyes!
But he's having an AU-HA moment
MPH
I had pre ordered 2 items before the Springfield show, which Backwoods then brought over with him. Purchasing the kits from him seemed to go well.
However, from Russ' experience there is good reason to be cautious.
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 11, 2013, 03:52:02 PM
So decided I was out of time and needed to get moving on this build (only have about 18 days to finish). Used the AB chipping technique fom my two experiments for this. Result is so-so (more practice needed)....but think it will work just fine for the final project need/subject.
Well, I'm looking forward to taking the time to practice enough to reach this level of "so-so" results ... and would be damned pleased to get there!
But, go ahead and criticize the crap out of your own work, perfect it, show us how it should "really" be done ... and frustrate the crap out of the rest of us when we finally reach the "so-so" level and find out it's not enough! ;D
Damn it, man ... I'm inspired! So, screw your disappointment, I'll take it! ;D
-- Dallas
Nice painting job Mark as always!
I like the chipped paint effect, rust color...But I'm a little bit surprised by the color base, this kind of "desert yellow" is instead rare for a gas loco paint...
This color is closer to a T55 used during the Gulf War... ;) ;D ;D ;D ::) ::)
Franck
I'm just glad to see activity on this again.
hi Russ
nice to see that someone else has had the courage to provide a "heads up" on Backwoods. From experience on many models from that source where it has been necessary to fix a mess that should not have been in the first place I can speak from personal experience.
never nice when one's commercial ideas are stolen.
Marc,
that loco would be absolutely fabulous on a chassis that operates at scale speed, battery powered and RC controlled. I am sure that Sir Nick will expound the virtues of custom built chassis & RC power as soon as his feet hit the ground again. we managed to build 3 chassis, and a complete loco in 2 days a few weeks ago. Your wonderful painting & weathering deserves it
Stay cool
Bernard
for items like this i always use e bay or the like.i shopped around and got the items half retail.the detail kit has many useful items ,pity the louvers are not see through.there is a muffler it will have to be re -worked as is it has not been well thought out but lets face it ,it is going to be fun.
kind regards kim
hey bernard
please post some photoes so we can all see what you are talking about
regards kim
Thank you for all the kind comments.
Franck;
Thankfully the color does come across more "yellow" in the images than it is in real (it is a grey paint color). I think it is partially a chromatic abberation of the wash that was applied, to try and represent the yellow brown shading one gets when grey sheet metal is rubbed down with an oily rag....part of it is also the beige undercoat of the grey that I did to try and create an old mottled paint look.
The yellowish tint could prove trpublesome...though hopefully not....as this loco will be receiving a very heavy coat and acculmulation of dust and dried mud. Have some brickwork locos that I am using for reference.
Frank,
Dont think there is room for DCC or RC in this.....barely enough room for the Black Beetle drive. :) ...and unfortunately, nobody has a 1/35 layout where it could find an eventual home.
I concur with Kim, I too would love to see more of your wonderful locos.
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 12, 2013, 09:25:32 PM
...and unfortunately, nobody has a 1/35 layout where it could find an eventual home.
Boy, do I think you are going to regret that little throw away remark ! :D
I have, so I am claiming first place in the line.
Bernard, having been fortunate enough to see your work at Nick's I to would hope you will post more details & pics of your work
Photos and full match report to follow .
Marc ,
I've got a fully operational 1/35th scale layout so send it along . By the way , Bernard managed to shoehorn a set of radio control gubbins into my Hesketh Scale Models O&K MD2 http://www.heskethscalemodels.com/ so getting one into you Gas mechanical should be a piece of piss ( as they say up North) .
What you will see ( when I post the photos ) is the future of model railroading . DCC is dead . Not too strong a statement I hope .
Nick
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 12, 2013, 09:25:32 PM
Thank you for all the kind comments.
Franck;
Thankfully the color does come across more "yellow" in the images than it is in real (it is a grey paint color). I think it is partially a chromatic abberation of the wash that was applied, to try and represent the yellow brown shading one gets when grey sheet metal is rubbed down with an oily rag....part of it is also the beige undercoat of the grey that I did to try and create an old mottled paint look.
The yellowish tint could prove trpublesome...though hopefully not....as this loco will be receiving a very heavy coat and acculmulation of dust and dried mud. Have some brickwork locos that I am using for reference.
Ok Mark, I expect to see more eagerly!
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 12, 2013, 09:25:32 PM
...and unfortunately, nobody has a 1/35 layout where it could find an eventual home.
Mark the Rougeault quarry was a 1:35 layout, indeed small, but it was 1:35 scale layout...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages59.fotki.com%2Fv684%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F7122629%2FIMG_3107-vi.jpg&hash=c2fc8fdfdf0f7aa6899f217543f6726d5dbdd249)
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So, it's possible to have at home, a 1:35 layout...I'm on my new network project mining, Les Eduits, but time fails me greatly, and I have not moved an inch ...Remember ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages108.fotki.com%2Fv191%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F6865235%2FIMG_1422-vi.jpg&hash=fccdb854de0454faad16f329772657ca35861d4e)
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;) Franck
A railway hanging off a cliff.. it must be built, it must be built, it must be built...
And yes, I can vouch for the 1:35 diesevils running around on top of the table at the convention. I think Bernard has another convert to RC here. And maybe even in 1:35 but I feel a strong beckoning in 1:24 road vehicles as well.
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 13, 2013, 12:17:19 AM
Bernard managed to shoehorn a set of radio control gubbins into my Hesketh Scale Models O&K MD2 http://www.heskethscalemodels.com/ so getting one into you Gas mechanical should be a piece of piss ( as they say up North) . What you will see ( when I post the photos ) is the future of model railroading . DCC is dead . Not too strong a statement I hope .
Nick
Nick, how are you doing with Bernard, for your models, if you want to have sound system in your models and the radio control?
Franck
Hi Frank,
greetings from down under.
Discussing sound and light with Bernard, he was not too enthusiastic about it. Not natural (sound) and not used much in feldbahnn use.
Jacq
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on April 14, 2013, 03:24:18 AM
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 13, 2013, 12:17:19 AM
Bernard managed to shoehorn a set of radio control gubbins into my Hesketh Scale Models O&K MD2 http://www.heskethscalemodels.com/ so getting one into you Gas mechanical should be a piece of piss ( as they say up North) . What you will see ( when I post the photos ) is the future of model railroading . DCC is dead . Not too strong a statement I hope .
Nick
Nick, how are you doing with Bernard, for your models, if you want to have sound system in your models and the radio control?
Franck
Franck ,
I am doing very well with Bernard and I already have one loco ( O&K MD2 ) that is radio controlled . Sound will probably not be included . On his list of locos to do for me , and others , are some more of the small Volos Brickworks Decauville that he has built for himself . Then I will be set to run trains on the layout I am planning . And guess what , the photos above that you posted here 5 years ago are the inspiration for the French mining layout in 1/35th that I want to build . I have scoured the internet for more photos of Les Eduits and come up with a few , but think that the only way to get a full idea of what it is like there is to visit the place . Unfortunately , I can't see myself finding the time to do so in the near future . So there will have to be lots of guess work involved . I don't even have any idea what sort of locos ran on the railway . Other than the single shot of the rusting wreck in the undergrowth that you posted .
Knowing how good a modeller you are it would be a shame if you didn't do your own version of Les Eduits . A bit of competition should be fun .
Like many other people , I always liked the Rougeault Quarry layout .
I hope you can find time to get back to doing some modelling ,
Nick
Quote from: artizen on April 14, 2013, 03:16:38 AM
A railway hanging off a cliff.. it must be built, it must be built, it must be built...
Ian ,
Your wish is my command . But don't hold your breath because you might turn a funny colour while you are waiting to see some results ,
Nick
Thank you so much for the kind words Nick...
But I have less and less time for modeling and personal problems :P :-[ ::) ::) ::) And Les Eduits will have to wait a bit...I will send you an email for further explanation...
Could you possibly tell me why you choose radio control system? to simplify the electrical wiring? You have Batteries in locos?
The sound doesn't seem to interest you with Bernard, is it definitive?
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on April 14, 2013, 07:27:22 AM
Thank you so much for the kind words Nick...
But I have less and less time for modeling and personal problems :P :-[ ::) ::) ::) And Les Eduits will have to wait a bit...I will send you an email for further explanation...
Could you possibly tell me why you choose radio control system? to simplify the electrical wiring? You have Batteries in locos?
The sound doesn't seem to interest you with Bernard, is it definitive?
Franck
Franck ,
I received your email and I understand fully why modelling is not very high on you list of priorities .
To answer your question why I choose radio control system is easy . Because Bernard has developed it over the last two years and it will fit into quite small locos . The batteries are only about 40mm x 20mm x 4mm and can fit into small spaces . He managed to fit the battery into my O&K by standing it upright on the inside of the cab . Whilst it can be seen , it is not very noticeable . Even more so when I paint it .
I intend starting a new thread on the subject when I have taken some photos .
For me , whilst it might be quite nice , having sound is not very high on my list of priorities . Having something to run the locos on is more important . Although having something sounding like Marcel's loco is quite appealing . And rather expensive .
Nick
Hi Nick,
Thanks, I understand about radio control...
For my part, when I have again a bit of time, I'll try to put a sound decoder for DCC narrow gauge gas loco, but it will be driven by a pure analogic supply current. The wiring is not a problem for me, and I think the DCC systems are too sophisticated for our little narrow gauge layout ... When you think you can control several tens or even hundreds of locos. This is totally useless for us, at least I think...
Franck
PS : Sorry Mark to speak about that on your post... :-\ ::) ::)
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Franck --
That is a BEAUTIFUL small layout! Love the curved front and very subtle changes in ground level and track elevations apparent in the photo reproduced above. Excellent.
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas thank you very much!
We tried with my friend Philippe Cousyn to plan Z-shaped track, which allows you to change level by successive steps, at each change of direction...
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Franck
Franck, I really like your small layout very nicely done :D
Thanks Craig, but this layout doesn't exist anymore...The layout has been sold...
Franck
I love the layout/diorama. Thank you for posting photos.
Regarding recent developments in R/C: In the past month I have heard from three or four people about it and all are enthusiastic. It would be my personal choice. Track wiring and DCC are cumbersome and no fun for a guy who prefers models to electronics. Cell phones, tablets, and laptop computers have forced industry to develop smaller and longer lasting batteries. I expect that technology to improve and make DCC obsolete. The reports I have had about R/C suggest locomotives run better with it (smoother and more slowly) and battery life is 4 to 6 hours. Battery replacement supposedly is very quick.
About sound: Tiny speakers produce brittle, thin, scratchy, distorted sounds. Rather than compromise the appearance of a nice model by installing an ugly speaker, the use of full size speakers below the track and spaced every few feet would seem preferable. I've seen a layout (by a musician) with such a system and it sounded much less toylike.
Personally, after about 30 seconds I find locomotive sounds disturbing and annoying. They are "out of scale" in every way. Think about that concept -- as modelers rather than disc jockeys for miniature locomotives....
Russ
Russ, you're right, small loudspeakers embedded in locos don't pass low frequencies!
Otto Schouwstra makes a system with full size speakers below the layout for his Terra Cotta, scale 1:87 (HOf)....It seems to me that this is Digitrax has developed a system transponding:
http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/products/detection-signaling/bdl168/documents/transponding%20bdl16xrx4%20app%20note_1.pdf
Franck
Otto is no idiot. I would think anything he designs would be worth considering. -- Russ
... but unfortunately Otto ended the production of sound systems in February 2013 ...
http://www.ossynths.nl/about-ossynths (http://www.ossynths.nl/about-ossynths)
Cheers
Oh no, Otto is not an idiot!!!
He built many superb models, pieces of jewelery, innovative still, it has also convinced me to use his belt drives system...
His sound system is excellent, but the DCC has its appararition and he has also health problems, he is now a little over 70 years olds...
Franck
Too damp and cold to paint today, so just messed around with all sorts of other parts ion this project.
Small details were added to the bonnet:
Stack is styrene rod tipainted with LifeColor Rust shades and mottled with some MIG & AK Pigments. Stack cover was made from a 1/32 scale car hub-cap, painted with Tamiya "Titanium", given a thinned wash of Vallejo dark grey acrylic, and a final wash of LifeColor "White Oxide".
Light bulb was made from clear plastic sprue, and light lens was cut from slide cover glass (still needs some weathering)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/539602_2954575599432_1636920117_n.jpg)
I think I will be needeing a base for this project, so I took one of my old bases, stripped it down to the foam, and slightly re-contoured it.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/10025_2954573959391_1018462106_n.jpg)
The base was then given a sealer/base coating of tinted and thinned, Liquitex 'Modeling Paste'.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/554746_2954573399377_963657545_n.jpg)
While the base dried, I made some pressed metal sleepers for the sectional track.
Sleepers were made using .005" aluminum from the bottom of a cheap grocery store roasting pan, and formed to shape using a press I cobbled together using scrap strip and sheet styrene.
Finished sleepers can be seen at right. These will be bead or baking-soda blasted to slightly roughen the surface, and then primered and painted.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/625559_2954573559381_716828172_n.jpg)
Nice job Mark!
I see much better now the "green look" of the bonnet paint! It look so good...
I also like the detailing parts, air filter, and the light!
About pressed metal sleepers, did you try your system with plasticard? I am interested by the same technique, but with an insulating material, which would make the train ride on the track ... and pick-up the current on track.
Nick and Bernard's radio control system would be also a good solution to get rid of current by the track with real metal sleepers like yours!
Franck
Thank you Franck.
I should probably have done these in brass, or copper sheet, that way I could have solderd them to the rails (Luckily since I only build static models, I dont have to worry about the power issue). No I have not tried the sleeprs with plastic...dont see how I could form them in a plastic form...maybe in an aluminum press that can be heated. I have used paper soaked in matte medium in this form, and it worked well. I have also rapid-prototyped about 5 sleepers, and that worked well also.
The thing I find most important with pressed metal sleepers, is that they are of scale thickness at the edge,....yes, there are styles that have bent down or radiused closed ends,....but I absolutely cannot stand when people try to represent pressed metal sleepres with solid blocks that only have a groove in the top....it doesn't fool anyone, and just looks like a toy. The ones that I did in resin via RP were solid, except the last 6-8 scale inches on each end, that way they were still stiff and sturdy, had good surface to glue them down, and could be drilled for spiking.
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 15, 2013, 04:29:35 AM
Thank you Franck.
I should probably have done these in brass, or copper sheet, that way I could have solderd them to the rails (Luckily since I only build static models, I dont have to worry about the power issue). No I have not tried the sleeprs with plastic...dont see how I could form them in a plastic form...maybe in an aluminum press that can be heated. I have used paper soaked in matte medium in this form, and it worked well. I have also rapid-prototyped about 5 sleepers, and that worked well also.
Sure, static models solves the problem! About plastic, I had the same idea, an (milled?) aluminum press and slightly heat the plastic with a hair dryer ...Your solution with paper soaked in matte medium is too a good idea, german modellers build skip dump car with cardboard and it works perfectly!
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 15, 2013, 04:29:35 AMThe thing I find most important with pressed metal sleepers, is that they are of scale thickness at the edge,....yes, there are styles that have bent down or radiused closed ends,....but I absolutely cannot stand when people try to represent pressed metal sleepres with solid blocks that only have a groove in the top....it doesn't fool anyone, and just looks like a toy. The ones that I did in resin via RP were solid, except the last 6-8 scale inches on each end, that way they were still stiff and sturdy, had good surface to glue them down, and could be drilled for spiking.
Hmm I quite agree with that, and you know that I am very exigent about respect for sheet thicknesses to scale! This is one of my techniques that I have used for many years on my models ...
Franck
Hi, I use long been etched and embossed sleepers.
I stick to the insulation with adhesive quickly through a thin strip of paper under the rail profile.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040770.JPG&hash=97768f2b6dafc8fe76070ef3a0062597858fbe14)
Roof emerging as etching part.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040772.JPG&hash=8947fd3cc5de62e7549b8288d9f23442608f2a3e)
Connection via clamping plate with bolts and nuts M 0.6, naturally electrically insulated.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040778.JPG&hash=0dcdbde34e0415390203fe80040f5da782e50221)
Roof sleeper track from below.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040784a.jpg&hash=6e81b1687a2387df185c5e6df267df4074189c3e)
Roof sleeper track for size comparison with a coin.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040710.JPG&hash=c1b093dc126a717c2c134d17310a6f6c11a3e0e7)
(Locked) lock for swing grooves on stage threshold.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040711.JPG&hash=c2a97cd948830b30ee03b7b9d8a1569904b3465c)
Lock for swing stage (unlocked)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1040835a.jpg&hash=4bd421c54dc77f7adf8fedddefc6775e35c428cc)
Schwenkebühne with aging and etched and embossed channels threshold.
All material nickel silver is emerging as this material is particularly suitable for this.
Beautiful job!
What scale? Of?
Good idea the insulation under the bottom of the rail!
Franck
Outstanding. Marc earns the Chuck Doan Perfection Award for vehicle modeling. Helmut already has earned the Westlake Publishing Meticulous Craftsmanship Award. Altogether not a bad display of prowess. -- Russ
Hi all,
I'm generally really only in scale 1:22,5.
This light railway or mining railroad track, the track width of 26.7 mm size = IIf.
Twice as large as that used by me but 0f method is safe to use even in 0f.
Russ, thanks for the compliment.
Thanks Helmut !
I'm in 1:35 scale, 50cm gauge, 14.3mm...it seems that your solution will lead me to 1:35 scale, the 12 labors of Hercules ... ;D ;D ;D ;D
Seriously, we can imagine a pressed metal sleepers such as Mark with a clip and a plastic bolt and the rail on a small piece of insulation such as double-sided tape! ;)
Franck
Abslutely beautiful work Helmut.
One could frobably do the tie profile that helmut is using, in 1/35, by using laser cut resin impregnated paper.....like what Vectorcut uses (hmmmm...may have to give him a call)....they could be prescored at the bend lines, then just bent using a PE tool......he could probably even pre-cut an indexed stiffening/filler piece out of thicker stock, that would fit in the correct place under the tie, so that the rails could be spiked through. With lsaer cutting, if the gauge and approx rail sixe were known, one gould have small holes pre-cut through both pieces to make spiking easier and lessen any deformation of the tie when spiking. These holes would also serve as the indexing for the filler piece, to keep it away from the edge of the tie profile.
If one we're not worriedbout power transmission (IE radio Control), PE brass like Helmut would be the way to go in 1/35. The initial breaks/bends could quickly be done in a PE folding tool, and then the pice could be placed into a two part form, to quickly and easily give it the proper final shape/angles at the bend.
I just last week purchased some PE marston matting (those perforated steel runners that can be interlocked for use in sand).....and they are intended to be done/formed in this exact manner.
Hi Guys
beautiful Decauville style track that would be perfect with my new fully self contained battery operated operating system.
no insulation required, absolute scale speed, rough as guts track, no connections needed between track sections and ...................... no track wiring of any nature required. With this trackwork & RC control it is 1:35 scale heaven.
have fun & stay cool
Bernard
Marc,
power transmission with 3v high torque motors makes this the perfect combination.
BS
Hi Bernard,
Could you possibly show us a sample of your radio control system installed in a loco? It seems indeed quite interesting!
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on April 16, 2013, 12:09:28 AM
Hi Bernard,
Could you possibly show us a sample of your radio control system installed in a loco? It seems indeed quite interesting!
Franck
Franck ,
Bernard could , but as I have been promising to start a separate thread on the subject it might be better if you gave me a bit more time to get my act together and do the job properly .
Nick
I am convinced battery R/C is the future of model vehicle control but so far the thickheaded model railroad industry has turned away from it. I'm not sure whether that is because when DCC appeared we still didn't have good, small batteries or because (as usual) the NMRA (who dictates such things) was too stupid and corrupt to investigate deeply.
At this point it is up to a handful of pioneers -- US -- to prove the value of R/C to an entrenched industry resistant to change. I eagerly await Nick's report on Bernard's work.
Russ
For a forum on Battery / RC refer to freerails.com and particularly
http://www.freerails.com/view_forum.php?id=45
This is for a forum that has been discussing and promoting Battery / RC for quite a while. I became aware of the site around 6 years ago but it has been discussing Battery / RC longer. The entire site is not necessarily Fine Scale but definitely dedicated to model railway.
Les
Morning Team
for those interested attached a photograph showing the RC / battery installation in a 1:35, 16.5mm gauge Ns2f industrial locomotive.
when reviewing please note that this was a quick construction of the locomotive (about 3 days) to ensure that the loco was available for the recent ANGC.
this loco and one other performed flawlessly for over 7 hours on a single charge of the 300mah LiPo battery. As you will see the entire installation is fully contained within the space under the engine cover.
this is the culmination of 12 years of work towards a miniaturised fully self-contained RC system, which has been proven totally succesful with the valued assistance of a brilliant Brittish intergrated circuit designer.
Nick will further elaborate when we set up the new thread on RC control.
With Russ's indulgence I let it be known that this system is now available from TMWA.
Bernard
Bernard - you have already convinced me.
Thank you so much Bernard!
Gordon Ferguson and Nick sent me too some photos and informations about your system.
Innovation indeed very interesting. It overcomes without difficulties insulation problems ... especially for a track laid on real metal sleepers!
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on April 21, 2013, 12:57:40 AM
Thank you so much Bernard!
Gordon Ferguson and Nick sent me too some photos and informations about your system.
Innovation indeed very interesting. It overcomes without difficulties insulation problems ... especially for a track laid on real metal sleepers!
Franck
The questions are , Franck . Have we got you thinking , and will it help you to get back to doing some modelling soon ?
Nick
Hi Nick,
You're right! When I get back to the hobby?
At the moment I have other priorities as you know, like finding another house probably, and therefore a room to do modeling! :P ::)
Franck
PS : But I'm lucky, I have this great forum, and all of you who allow me to keep dreaming! And dreams, it's the future! So I hope to come back soon ...
Some work on the base today.
The assembled, two partial pieces of sectional track. Sleepers are pressed aluminum, detailing is strip styrene, with Grandt and Tichy nuts/bolts/rivets, track pieces are two previously painted pieces from the scrap box. Track gauge/width/spacing is approx. 600mm in scale.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/417904_2967647726227_95816334_n.jpg)
I received some of the new AK primer and thinner from Iain Hamilton, just before left for Heiden so was happy to be able to try it out. eally like the quality of finish and ease of spraying of this product.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/526447_2967645766178_753906085_n.jpg)
The entire rail assembly was painted a random mix of AK Chipping Color and Dark Rust, then given a random application of rust and some Green pigments. The colors were kept lighter, as they wil darken with the subsequent step. AK Dark Steel pigment was purnished onto the top of the rails.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/72871_2967645966183_2146915927_n.jpg)
The top of the rails were masked-off, and given an airbrushed coating of Dullcoat to seal them during the groundwork portion. When dry, some of the details were accentuated using a dark pin-wash.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/526552_2967646246190_432957314_n.jpg)
The track set onto the base. Sleeper underpinnings are stained balsa using the technique described in the Model Fan articles.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/427819_2967646726202_522370529_n.jpg)
Did a quick steel post to add detail to the scene. Painted with Tamiya acrylics, weathered with Abt-502 "Wash Brown" and AK "Dark Rust" oil colors. a slight bit of AK "Dark Steel" was used to accent some of the hard edges, and provide a slight sheen to the oxidized steel color. Thin lead wire was used to add the wire wrap.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/532269_2967653406369_1905585123_n.jpg)
Mark fantastic! I love the effects of rust on the track and metal sleepers...
Nice work, as usual!
Franck
Excellent track , Marc . It is just what I want . I'll take two dozen lengths . Any chance of getting them by the end of the month ?
Nick
Hey Mr. World traveler!
the Dull coat lacquer and the AK enamel play nice nice together? ???
Nice track and I love the aprox 600mm ::)
Why the wooden ties underneath?
As always, your just showing off, and great job too,
darn you >:(
MPH
Nice work on this small display. I like this touch of rust. Keep it right.
Georges.
Well they say "third time's a charm"
The sectional track has always interested me.
May be some in three foot 1/16th scale in my future.
Im thinking of calling it O3n(as in cubed-no way to make the little 3).
Since 1/16 is three times bigger in three directions.
That should confuse the hell out of the railroad dorks!!
I still have all those catalog scans from you of the switches.
Marty
It's coming along. -- Russ
Thanks guys.
Marty; Sectional track at that scale would be really cool. Especially with your metal working skills.
Didn't get much done today, just getting the base ready for the final steps, and a quick experiment.
DAS is used to create the final ground level and contours.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/400770_2969915262914_2083158966_n.jpg)
Example images and quick test piece on a scrap base, to test out the materials to be used, and do a quick check of color and shading. Water and wet/damp areas areas still not complete. It's definitely not a "Duchamp"....but I it is generally headed in the right direction, and where I need it to go.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/305890_2969914902905_2004897167_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/11948_2969914782902_1312228390_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/936152_2969917142961_165667357_n.jpg)
Texturing of the mud is very interesting and the contrast between dry spots and damp ones is already great looking. (nice footprint too)
I foresee a cool color gradient from the swamp to the dried mud.
No nitpicking to add, unfortunately. This is all over very good and you succeeded in the grass color, green grass is very difficult IMO to realize.
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 22, 2013, 03:55:28 AM
It's definitely not a "Duchamp"....but I it is generally headed in the right direction, and where I need it to go.
I wish I could sell my humble Duchamp as his ready-made...
Could help in some daily life problems... :)
Thank you kind sir!
The images did come out a bit lighter and warmer. The middle image is closest in color to where it currently is. Yes there will be some more wet/damp and color transition from the puddle upward, I couldnt add it because the coloring are and wet I am using is Eenamel, and the water I am playing with is acrylic....so I need to wait till the water is all in and set, before coming in with the enamel. (last time I tried the other way around, the acrylic lifted/seperated from the enamel surface areas...though that was using that troublesome Vallejo "Still Water" ;) )
Attached is a bit of a closer view. The hardest part I was working on here was trying to get that feeling of churned up muddy area, and the hard packed wet earth "path" area that was just beginning to dry on portions of the surface...as well as the damper areas near and under the greenery.....then there was the whole different finish of the sloppy wet mud between the tracks.
All this mud and wetness comes from the water and mud spilling out of the tipper cars.
Coming along well Marc, certainly a few steps on from the our initial experiments with mud, water and grass.
Become a big fan of Das, the fibrous texture of it comes very useful for a base for this sort of work
Thanks Gordon. Much appreciated.
Yes, agree about the DAS texture. With this method though, most of the DAS is covered, in a manner, with a mix using a Vallejo product as a base/main component. (We'll talk ;) )
Is the mud/dirt real dirt?
Is the "DAS" the wood putty stuff?
-Marty
Marty,
I have no idea what the DAS is made of. (I thought it was paossibly papaer pulp of some sort).....its basically the stuff you can buy artstores like Dick Blick. I think that Jerry Kitts uses the stuff for all his rock scenery on his layout.
There is a very small amount of fine sifted dirt and pebbles mixed in...just enough to give the differnt textures. Iunfortunately can't post the mix(es) at this time, as it is for an upcoming article/sidebar on mud.
DAS IS UM PAPER
MPH
mostly Paper Myself
Good texture. -- Russ
Thanks Gil; DAS ist gut.
Thanks Russ. Getting there. :)
Yes the Vallejo products are good. I personally favour black lava as a base for tarseal. The mud and sand textures are useful for ground and wall rendering etc. They also make water products such as still water and extra heavy gel for waves. Trust the military modellers to get all the cool stuff! There is a guy over here in Australia called Simply Glues making an exceptional trowel-on tarseal product called Simply Road Base as well.
Thanks for the resources. Will have to look into them. The only Vallejo product I was not thrilled with at all, was the "Still Water", shrinks like nothing else, and hadd some speration issues with it as well.
Thanks Marc, you have answered my question (in my mind) of why my surface crackled like fury when I applied it. I thought it had to do with whatever I had previously used under it or the humidity. Eventually I used a two-pack epoxy to make the water which helped fill in some of the cracks!!!
Are you just "smooshing" the DAS into the base? (Technical term)
Or are you using a pallet knife
Thanks, I am working on a similar project and there won't be a lot of room for ballast and I thought this would work better than say spackle.
MPH
I'm smooshing, wedging and smoothing. I take a piece of DAS and wet it with some water, then knead it onto a flat-ish shape...press it into place...smoosh it around, use a squared-off palette knife and piece of styrene to square it and fit it tight and neat against the ties.......repeat.....and then use a soft squre flat brush, wet with water, to soften and blend everything, and remove finger prints and seams.
Chipped Frame:
Hairspray from can over clear coated base color.
Tamyia light grey-red color mix, thinned with X-20A
Hairspray from can.
Tamiya darker faded red mix, thinned with X-20A
Larger and softer edge areas chipped using Windex shot through airbrush; small and hard edged chips done with brush and water.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/943426_2984506787693_2019248197_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/940816_2984557628964_1134878677_n.jpg)
Frame after some blending washes with thinned acrylics, pin washes and shading with oil colors, and high-lighting with steel pigment.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/551327_2984495507411_784446778_n.jpg)
Assembled loco with basic weathering steps.....ready for final weathering.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/941487_2984495907421_1175892502_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/524563_2984495787418_818265745_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/936222_2984499307506_1176324609_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/168334_2984495667415_993854692_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/528456_2984495267405_901975727_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/165261_2984495387408_1499630257_n.jpg)
I think we will call this project done. Rest of the weathering to be done/shown elsewhere.
Bloody hell.
Id be happy to leave it at that and never touch it again. Brilliant stuff Marc.
Thanks very much Wesley. I thought about leaving it as well (with just some dust and grease added), but the choice/decision is not mine to make (so to speak). :)
Marc
Marc,
Really nice project.
A lot of folks could learn a great deal about weathering; why, where, location, types, cause & effect.
The different types of "media" are also a wealth of information.
I hope the entire "article" will appear somewhere soon in a theater near me!
Hopefully in English without subtitles. ;D
-Marty
Hi Marc,
great project that excites me every time.
I need to make more time for my BBA.
I like that, lots of things & ideas to try and steal. ;)
Especially fond of the wear, colour and patterns around the seat and floor area.
However very worried by the appearance of a Lego brick in your work :o
Wow.....that chipped & worn paint is perfect.
I like it. Russ have you given thought to replacing the springs with individual leaves? I think it would really make it pop.
Bill
Quote from: 5thwheel on April 29, 2013, 09:46:18 AM
I like it. Russ have you given thought to replacing the springs with individual leaves? I think it would really make it pop.
Bill
Russ ? What's he got to do with modelling ?
Marc ,
That does it for me . I will have to start my O&K MD2 before long and I shall be imitating mercilessly your red chassis . Obviously it won't be as good , but I'll give it my bestest shot .
Nick
thanks for the DAS lesson
MPH
This is really great! I like your new color choices. - No crazy caricature, just a plausible industrial workhorse!
I am very curious how the rest of your muddy base turns out.
I have no freakin' idea what to say here, but I'm enjoyin' the hell outta the ride! -- Dallas
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 30, 2008, 07:52:08 PM
I would actually consider that (once it's painted though).....the problem is that I need to start stockpiling finised models for the 2013 NNGC, which is here in Pasadena. I figure if I enter everything I built from when I started modeling up until then, say about 10 models, I might have a chance at a third place. ;D
Marc
Was reading through this thread trying to find some Info on the brake lever and noticed the above ........ Note when originally posted........ Long term planing combined with superb timing ;D ;D ;D
Just great! And he does that quite coolly...
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 29, 2013, 02:55:54 AM
Chipped Frame:
Hairspray from can over clear coated base color.
Tamyia light grey-red color mix, thinned with X-20A
Hairspray from can.
Tamiya darker faded red mix, thinned with X-20A
Larger and softer edge areas chipped using Windex shot through airbrush; small and hard edged chips done with brush and water
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2FWestlake%2520Publishing%2520Forum%2Fth_165261_2984495387408_1499630257_n_zps7b7458e3.jpg&hash=a43166750f5aa8fbc69dd2943c303add11c8906b) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/Westlake%20Publishing%20Forum/165261_2984495387408_1499630257_n_zps7b7458e3.jpg.html)
Just to understand right. This subtle chipping (red circle) you did with "Windex shot through airbrush"?
(Hmm.. according to Google, Windex is a glass and hard-surface cleaner???)
Regards, Peter
Thank you all very much for the kind works and comments. All of you have really been a great and constant source of inspirtation, support, and chellenging me to try harder and do better...so the thanks is really goes to you. :)
Marty; I dont think I took enough SBS images during the painting steps to create a useful article on this, however..and if it is not a total disaster, the subsequent heavy mud and dirt effects should be in the next AK Weathering mag.
Gordon; Yes, those Lego bricks, they're kind of like "Tribbles" or white mice...starts with one, and soon they are all over the place.
QuoteWas reading through this thread trying to find some Info on the brake lever and noticed the above ........ Note when originally posted........ Long term planing combined with superb timing
Maybe its just the cunning and crotchety-ness that comes with old age. Brake lever I believe was a modified 1/48 brass casting from PSC (Precision Scale Company)
Dallas; No need to say anything...but I do believe you have a gas mech that you are supposed to be working on. ;D ;D
Peter: Yes, you are correct. The seat, cab floor, and upper edges of the cab panels were all done in the same way.
Once both layers of HS and paint are on, I load the AB with Windex, and carefully begin to literally blast the paint off. I vary between letting the windex flow, and using only air....working pretty darn close to the surface at about 20 psi. I try to keep moving, and not stay in one spot too long, because it can eventually wear through the clear and finish, down to the primer. Some areas, I will try/want to only remove the top layer/color of HS and paint others I go through both layers. You do need to practice/experiment a bit, because if yo are not used to it, when blowing across details such as the top of the flat buffers for instance, the spray gets deflected off to the sides, and can creat a line where the paint is removed from the overspray pressure....so you need to keep this in mind.
Warning note...you do not want to hold the part in your hands when doing this approach, as the paint gets softened where the excess windex flows/runs, and you will leave fingerprints or damage the paint, if you touch the wet areas before they dry again.
Still trying to refine it and figure out what all can be done. This is a variation of a technique that Gert Mertens of KMK, lovingly whispered in my ear at the Heiden show :); he apparently does it with Tamiya or LifeColor paint mixed with water for the paint application, and then uses the AB loaded with water to remove the paint. I was not able to get that down quite as well, or get the same effects....plus I like to use the X20A for thinning....so I decided to try the Windex.
Nice job Mark!
I like the red paint effect on the frame, maybe some changes from red to pink would have been very interresting ... But the chassis is also very much like that!
Franck
Franck,
Yes, a more sibtle transition in some areas, or more fding on the red, would have been great. I was considering doing this with oil paints (pink, buff, and white).....but in the end decided to omit it, along with some other weathering effects, due to time constraints, and because so much of this will not be visible under/through the final weathering.
The unerlying chipping ccolor...the pinkish tone is a lso vey tricky to work with......I didn't have enough time to play with this, because when I went any lighter, or more grey, as many of the images show, the sontrast and transition quickly became very haarsh and jarring......this is where more layering and fading of the upper coats would have helped....but this quickly anded up creating too heavy of a paint layer to effectively chip...I tried a couple of times and washed them off again........this was my compromise. :)
Hi Marc,
you mean a red chassis something like this one.
have fun
BernardS
Marc, I'm glad to see you finally seem to be getting the hang of all this.
Sorry for a belated post. Young Scarlett and I have been out of town for a few days.
Russ
P.S.: Nick, go stand in the corner.
Very nice variations in colors. Well done.
Georges.
Thanks for the info! Seems like there is always something new to try.
Quote from: narrowgauger on April 29, 2013, 04:29:09 PM
Hi Marc,
you mean a red chassis something like this one.
have fun
BernardS
Or like this... ;D ;D ;D ;)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages61.fotki.com%2Fv249%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5748478%2FDSCN2802-vi.jpg&hash=6fd98eee9b1dce691098e51097271aecaad96b7f)
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on May 01, 2013, 02:42:43 AM
Quote from: narrowgauger on April 29, 2013, 04:29:09 PM
Hi Marc,
you mean a red chassis something like this one.
have fun
BernardS
Or like this... ;D ;D ;D ;)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages61.fotki.com%2Fv249%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5748478%2FDSCN2802-vi.jpg&hash=6fd98eee9b1dce691098e51097271aecaad96b7f)
This is the loco by which all others are judged .
And the bounder Franck went and sold it before I got a look in . Pah !
Thank you for this very kind word, but it is no longer quite true today ... This model was painted in 2001. Today there are other techniques, such as Hairspray, which offer many more possibilities, and more realistic!
Sorry Nick! But at the time I needed money ... ;D ;D ;D
Franck
Stop being so modest, Franck. Your loco still would rank among the very top models in its class. -- Russ
Thanks, Boss! ;D ;D ;D
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on May 01, 2013, 11:27:17 AM
Thank you for this very kind word, but it is no longer quite true today ... This model was painted in 2001. Today there are other techniques, such as Hairspray, which offer many more possibilities, and more realistic!
Sorry Nick! But at the time I needed money ... ;D ;D ;D
Franck
Franck ,
I would have paid more !
The technique you used on your Gmeinder is still used today and has not been superseded , by hairspray or anything else . Granted , other people have done things that look very good but , to me , you led the way in loco painting .
Nick
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.fotocommunity.com%2Fimages%2FEisenbahn%2FHistorische-Eisenbahnen%2FDiesellok-Deutz-Typ-OMZ117F-der-Feldbahn-Arbeitsgemeinschaft-a23523672.jpg&hash=fa6bbbd1b6ad32c2b4e64fff28473bb0da5c3cf5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg99.imageshack.us%2Fimg99%2F6726%2Fimg1860du.jpg&hash=837a9d1a66fd0fbb97f346ef80514a19cb51f64c)
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dampfhappi.de%2Ffeldbahn%2Foesi90%2Ftk14a.jpg&hash=c91193b6439abeb4694dd563c723611b5a9799aa)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmw2.google.com%2Fmw-panoramio%2Fphotos%2Fmedium%2F14933350.jpg&hash=604cd7c9f98cbbed5fb85678d15c7a36d1e71b11)
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Great photos, especially the second one in the first group........ Track , and maybe I don't finish my stuff too dark ;) and that last pic is challenging vegetation.
Whist you are on the hunt for pics let me know if you find any of that one I sent you re colour question
LOL! Well now you have all the washes to get that dark finish. :)
Will keep my eyes open...think I found a sim one...but not that exact one.
...and continuing with the red parts....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dampfhappi.de%2Ffeldbahn%2F8.jpg&hash=7c7348d88905f7de834679cf3b12974077bfd9cf)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dampfhappi.de%2Ffeldbahn%2F3schoema710.jpg&hash=cfac35f98085095b1878b82c7205e373d9fb8f97)
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Gent's thanks for all the photo's. Terrific info for my 1:35 project.
Hope to take a loco with me to Railex 2013 in Aylesbury end of May and the KMK show in Belgium in September.
Jacq
Jacq,
I have hundreds of these on my external drive....let me know if your email is still the same, and I will upload them via WeTransfer, and then you can download them from there to your PC.
Marc
Mark, great inspiration these pictures! ;)
Franck
Why aren't there more examples of American trams as inspirational as those? My retirement diorama, with an 8 ton Plymouth, will have to take inspiration from the Continent. -- Russ
Marc,
thank you for the offer.
the email is still the same ( jacq.damen@gmail.com )
A great start for the 1:35 project we have discussed (and started)
More after the Railex show in Aylesbury.
Jacq
Quote from: finescalerr on May 02, 2013, 12:20:02 PM
Why aren't there more examples of American trams as inspirational as those? My retirement diorama, with an 8 ton Plymouth, will have to take inspiration from the Continent. -- Russ
As I fully expect you to last as long as your dad and in view of the fact that you will be retiring in the next year or two , I estimate that will allow you approximately 25 years to get it done . Have you allowed yourself enough time and do you think that it might be prudent to start it now seeing as you might be cutting it bit fine ? You wouldn't want to rush it now , would you ?
And we thought Chuck was slow .
Nick
I'm already in the corner so any further sanctions are meaningless !
Quote from: finescalerr on May 02, 2013, 12:20:02 PM
Why aren't there more examples of American trams as inspirational as those? My retirement diorama, with an 8 ton Plymouth, will have to take inspiration from the Continent. -- Russ
Russ, like this ?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.northeast.railfan.net%2Fimages%2Fply_flh0.jpg&hash=4507bfaed73f337c965e2c88a6eb6121b477cbbf)
It's this photo, which was somewhat inspired me for this Grandt Line's Plymouth...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages57.fotki.com%2Fv80%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FPlymouth2-vi.jpg&hash=910cbf8c6dd5f6fb967b30c845213174b6c0eedb)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages60.fotki.com%2Fv370%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FPlymouth1vi-vi.jpg&hash=8b3232e15108c902ece21308c3a8b20a461987c5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages61.fotki.com%2Fv535%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FPhoto9_1-vi.jpg&hash=c21d64f66279b1450795648aa0a4c6828fdba7ab)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv104%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FPhoto12-vi.jpg&hash=58dc11a4105d9a691cbf4712dbb1d5ec8c138f06)
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Franck
Ah....the Tavernier Plymouth. Very nice/good match to the original.
Gordon, Nick, et al........if you want many/most/all the feldbahn images I have as well, let me know, and I will include your email on the upload/transfer.....that way you will be notified when they are ready to download.
Will likely do this on Sat or Sun........only doing it once...so no no Johnny-come-lately's. :)
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 02, 2013, 04:44:32 PM
Ah....the Tavernier Plymouth. Very nice/good match to the original.
Gordon, Nick, et al........if you want many/most/all the feldbahn images I have as well, let me know, and I will include your email on the upload/transfer.....that way you will be notified when they are ready to download.
Thanks Mark for the Pymouth, it was just a test for the hairspray technique, nerver really completly finished!I should also add other washs, filters, etc. ...
I'm too interested for the feldbahn photo, if you have the link to upload... ;)
Franck
Morning Marc,
Thanks for the offer, add me to the list .......... you can never have too much info ;)
Will do.
Franck....can you send me a message with your email...it's not showing in my contacts. Thx.
marc
Mine is close to that, Franck. The cab is taller and maybe also the hood. Your model is wonderful. -- Russ
Quote from: gfadvance on May 02, 2013, 11:24:47 PM
Morning Marc,
Thanks for the offer, add me to the list .......... you can never have too much info ;)
Moi aussi , s'il vous plait . Mercy buckets !
Nick
Quote from: finescalerr on May 03, 2013, 01:58:57 AM
Mine is close to that, Franck. The cab is taller and maybe also the hood. Your model is wonderful. -- Russ
Many thanks Russ! Are you talking about Plymouth TL type like this?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railpictures.net%2Fimages%2Fd1%2F1%2F1%2F1%2F4111.1223788510.jpg&hash=8181c1c71d73b2dbeb0e7a5568dde62e6303773a)
Franck
This is the Plymouth I'm working on. So far I have completed only this side view. Someday, when I am as old as Nick, I may try to finish the drawing and turn it into a 1:32 scale model. -- Russ
Hey Russ, you want this Plymouth?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpreview.turbosquid.com%2FPreview%2F2010%2F12%2F05__02_06_00%2F3-Plymouth_Locomotive.jpgc2205bd5-c11e-4bed-93bd-2e852d5172c1Larger.jpg&hash=6d785ac9d0a0ecdd101f7e35007a7dacf1718fd1)
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpreview.turbosquid.com%2FPreview%2F2010%2F12%2F05__02_06_00%2F6-Plymouth_Locomotive.jpgb6069e27-099e-4783-86d6-54b7c3fbaf77Larger.jpg%255Bimg%255D%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%253Cbr%2520%2F%253Ehttp%3A%2F%2Fpreview.turbosquid.com%2FPreview%2F2010%2F12%2F05__01_52_00%2F14-Plymouth_Locomotive.jpgf4207dd9-bbe5-46b6-8a81-0cbe355af1d5Larger.jpg&hash=bc9f4461ef1b6657b3ad7faf3ac92e18e97dbd47)
Try this link :
http://www.turbosquid.com/FullPreview/Index.cfm/ID/542868
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gouldstudios.com%2Fimages%2FLocomotives%2FPlymouth%2520Gas%2520Mechanical%2520Contractor%2527s%2520Locomotive%2C%25201920%2527s%2F6008_6009.jpg&hash=9af4dff7eafed2729c1939b1f3aed1eba01c894c)
You can order this drawing here :
http://www.gouldstudios.com/loco_PlymouthGas.html
;)
Franck
Here's a "1:1 scale diorama" outside some sort of quarry or mining operation in Berkeley Springs, West Virginia ...
Cheers,
Dallas
...
Dallas, this Plymouth is a FL1 type...The same as Grandt Line reproduced.
I would like to build this model in 1:35, the more difficult will be the lettering "Plymouth" on the front of the radiator, and what's more, slightly rounded, the letters actually follow the rounded top of the radiator ... Perhaps with transfers letters from Archer...
Franck
Franck --
I may be headed out that way in a few weeks ... if I remember, I'll try to shoot a straight-on photo of the radiator lettering ...
You might be able to do the lettering with photo-etch letters from Royal Model ... all of the letters (except "T") are "normal" ... just different sizes. The top of the Y, U and H have been trimmed at an angle. The top of the T has been slanted.
The lettering on the little fan below was done with the photo-etch letters ... the set has different sizes.
Cheers,
Dallas
Maybe an idea; if you have the straight-on photo, it could be transfered into a drawing which e.g Vectorcut could laser cut the correct letters ?!
good luck.
[hijacking mode on]
If it would help / be of use to anyone;
I have got an unbuild 1:32 Malcolm Moore V8 locomotive by The Model Company including the correct Black Beetle drive unit which I will not be building anymore due to changing subjects.
Also I have got a set of Slaters 1:32 Hudson "rugga" skip wagons (contains 3 kits)
If anyone is interested just drop me a PM and we can discuss details.
[hijacking mode off]
I will go stand in the corner. ::)
Regards,
Marc
NB if inappropriate please remove the post
FWIW
I would be tempted to have a go at doing "PLYMOUTH" using Slaters 2 or 3mm plastic letters.
Looking at the pic most of the Curve can be taken care of by shortening the verticals , either top or bottom depending on the letter and tweaking the top of the Y and the T ..... Leaving the middle two letters M & O full size
When (if?) I build a loco I would look into laser engraving the word PLYMOUTH, or producing the radiator shell with 3-D printing. I doubt the price of either would be too high considering the likely quality of the result.
That's a beautiful model, Franck. I want to scratchbuild the model in my plans because I've actually seen one like it, because it's from an earlier era (when jazz was popular), and because I like to create things. But I hope any model I might build would look as good as yours!
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 04, 2013, 02:46:32 PM
That's a beautiful model, Franck. I want to scratchbuild the model in my plans because I've actually seen one like it, because it's from an earlier era (when jazz was popular), and because I like to create things. But I hope any model I might build would look as good as yours!
Russ
Russ, your plan is very nice, and I also love it! Is it a freelance design model inspired by differents Plymouth models ? It is very similar to 8 tons DL model...
I agree with you about the full construction, but it is also very time consuming! Thank you for my models, but I try to do better with each new model ... ;)
My last model built last year ... Inspired by the Plymouth, RLD type...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages20.fotki.com%2Fv113%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F9901030%2FLoco1-vi.jpg&hash=09d73417da19a76c70a54b1d8c98c8902cc32fd4)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv109%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F9901030%2FLoco3-vi.jpg&hash=6a275a7cb155b5cf41d23cc778594347bd681393)
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Franck
Outstanding model, Franck.
About my drawing: It should be a(n almost) perfect side view of a DL. The cab may be off very slightly because I have no precise dimensions and because the locomotives I used for reference might not have unmodified cabs. The original dimensions were estimates I made from studying photos. Then I saw Bob Poli's scratchbuilt 1:20.3 model of a West Side 8 ton Plymouth and I asked him for plans. He sent not only a photocopy of the original drawing but dozens of photos of the West Side Plymouth. The original drawing is from field measurements of the West Side loco. I can't remember who drew his plan.
As it turned out, my original dimensions were almost perfect. I was off no more than 2 or 3 inches in only a couple of places and everything else was dead on (except, as I explained, for the cab; the West Side rebuilt the cab on its Plymouth and I want a stock model).
I feel confident that my completed drawing very accurately will illustrate a stock catalog model. But if anybody has information, I will try to incorporate it into my final version.
Russ
Russ,
Thanks for the kind words about my model ;)
About the DL type, a drawing appeared in the Narrow Gauge Gazette a few months ago ... I have plans for the DL type from the book compiled by James S. Eakin, I would send by mp ...
Maurice Field has made a kit in 1:48 of the DL type, and kit for the DL of the West Side...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages61.fotki.com%2Fv439%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2F86plymouth086-vi.jpg&hash=05773a57934ebf855b17349e6eba32cda06a1a45)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages14.fotki.com%2Fv219%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FWSLCoPly1jsa3-vi.jpg&hash=5a38df6e391428a5accc2b9d01bb2e7521869b84)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages59.fotki.com%2Fv426%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FWSLCoPly1jsa1-vi.jpg&hash=299cab3bcfcd17fc9e60709da8830c48a69d9547)
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Franck
The Plymouth DL is one thug-ugly locomotive!
Franck, I really like the brutish, functinoal look of your loco.
Do you have a link to where one can buy the DL kit by Maurice.....web search didn't yield anything.
Marc
Marc,
I believe Maurice Field is behind "Buffalo Landing", who also make the nice set of Westside 1/48 figures.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/O-On3-or-On30-1-48-scale-figures-Workmen-Set-of-5-NUMBER-2-/161018366396?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item257d7149bc
These are the figures he does, and I think I've occasionally seen one of the Plymouth kits listed. Not sure that he has a website as such, but you might be able to contact him via the eBay "ask seller a question" thing to try and get more details.
Dan
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages61.fotki.com%2Fv439%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2F86plymouth086-vi.jpg&hash=05773a57934ebf855b17349e6eba32cda06a1a45)
Pull back on this image a bit (ie, not cropped quite so closely) ... and it would make a great triangular diorama ... with the show walls framing two sides of the triangle ... Dallas
Marc, Dan gave the answer! You can oder it directly to Maurice.
maurice.field@papertiger.co.nz
You can find these kits also here:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interhobmodels.com%2Fsitebuildercontent%2Fsitebuilderpictures%2Fwsplymouth.jpg&hash=1ca91eaf9d2e3f5c8c47c35286bc93cf8381171d)
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http://www.interhobmodels.com/
Franck
In the Nov/Dec 2010 Narrow Gauge Gazette Bob Poli told how he scratch built is West Side Plymouth in 1:20.3 scale
He did write that he had recieved drawings from Maurice Fields to help with the building of the Plymouth.
Bob also advised he too had trouble doing the "Raised Lettering" on the sides & radiator. He contacted Doug Bronson @ Bronson & Tate (www.bronson-tate.com). Doug made the letters from old card stock that Bob ACC'd on to the required areas.
I too have used Doug to burn out some windows for me in 1:20.3
Mike Sigmon
Jacksonville, Fl
The prototype has been nicely restored to fully operating condition at the Nevada County RR museum.
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 05, 2013, 04:26:30 PM
Franck, I really like the brutish, functinoal look of your loco.
Marc
Marc,
Sometimes reality surpasses modeling!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv319%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059382%2FWHITCOMB201LEERS-vi.jpg&hash=16dbe5a35a5fd6d71b87e4e03e1cfc5ec0ca2570)
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv734%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059382%2FWHITCOMB204LEERS-vi.jpg&hash=ef70d3c45a48d823c5ce2aab4aeffaf9dc3bf712)
Franck
Franck - Thanks for posting the Whitcomb photos. Little four-wheeled critters like that are my favorite model subjects. I particularly like these photos since they show a small industrial loco that is still in service. So many of the photos of industrial critters either show them after sitting outside for 30 years with no maintenance, or beautifully restored with nearly perfect paint. I'm always looking for photos of little IC critters that show they have been used, but not abused.
Bill Martinsen
Ok, Frank, Gordon, et al (and some of you that I included even though you didn't ask..like Dallas, Alexandre, Russ, Gerald...)....I uploaded the file to WeTransfer. You should get an email notification with instructions on how to download it.
The download consists of a zipped RAR file, it contains about 1600 feldbahn and industrial related images. Size of the file is 169MB. (I suggest you do not try downloading it to a "tablet/pad" unless you are sure you have enough free space, you know the tablet can work with ZIP or RAR files, and you have a really good WI-FI connection.)
I will still have the RAR file on my desktop for a couple of days before I delete it, so if some of you other guys want a copy as well.....you will need to message me your emailMarc
Thanks for putting that together, Marc! Lots of great material there. -- Dallas
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 07, 2013, 02:35:02 AM
Ok, Frank, Gordon, et al (and some of you that I included even though you didn't ask..like Dallas, Alexandre, Russ, Gerald...)....I uploaded the file to WeTransfer ...
... Thanks a lot for including me as well ... I already was going to ask, but finally forgot about it ... ::)
Cheers
Gerald
Thanks a lot for including me Marc.
Spent great times browsing the file, and a lot of useful and inspiring pictures for me, a non-RR modeler.
Thanks for sharing, must be hours of work to build such a file.
:)
Thank you so much Marc!
The download is in progress ... ;D ;D ;D
Franck
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 07, 2013, 02:35:02 AM
Ok, Frank, Gordon, et al (and some of you that I included even though you didn't ask..like Dallas, Alexandre, Russ, Gerald...)....I uploaded the file to WeTransfer. You should get an email notification with instructions on how to download it.
The download consists of a zipped RAR file, it contains about 1600 feldbahn and industrial related images. Size of the file is 169MB. (I suggest you do not try downloading it to a "tablet/pad" unless you are sure you have enough free space, you know the tablet can work with ZIP or RAR files, and you have a really good WI-FI connection.)
I will still have the RAR file on my desktop for a couple of days before I delete it, so if some of you other guys want a copy as well.....you will need to message me your emailMarc
Nothing has come through , did I get included on the list of recipients ? Or has Russ warned you not to ?
Nick
Nick, don't get sensitive now, we know what you brickies are like!
Sent the link to you , mind you with the amount of info Marc has included you will not have the time to build anything now .
See if you can spot the engine shed I am going to do for the 1/35 R/C loco ;D
I haven't received anything either.
Jacq
Nick, whatever email is associated with your account here in the forum , is the one I used for the transfer. The notification to download would have been sent there. Otherwise have a look through your spam filter. Let me know before the end of the week if you have not been able to sort out your issues. ;)
Jacq....I believe I added you.....may have been an oversight though....sorry. No way for me to check. I will make sure to add you in my next/final send when I get back in the office at the end of the week.
Alexandre, glad they were of some interest.
These are images I have collected/clipped/saved over the years. The ones I sent are the ones that had been sorted to some extent (but for the transfer all got dumped into one file).....I probably still have the same amount of these types (subject wise) of images floating around on my disk, that are unsorted ;D........I think I have several Terrabytes worth of all sorts of refernce image files......one can never have enough reference material . :)
Marc,
I checked my inbox and spam folder, but nothing for me either.
Can you please resend the link?
Edit May9:
Got the files this morning. What a great collection. Thank you for sharing, Marc!
Christian
Thanks Marc for adding me. There are a lot of good ideas. The trackwork and turntables, etc. are just as interesting as the equipment.
That 20's sedan "loco" plopped on the beams was especially neat.
Ahem...back o the subject of the thread....
Layer #4.....more to go. Cab interior pretty much done, except for grease and oil stains...which thanks to really prompt service from Iain at AK, I will be able to do now.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/600925_3012909057732_774173897_n.jpg)
Well Marc, your experiments with mud, dirt and dust seem to have been very successful .......... The build up of debris along the back of the cab and under the seat look extremely realistic .
Now just try to ignore the urge to strip the paint off it again ;D
I thought the first attempt was darned good. This one has a very different appearance; I can't compare the two. But the current version seems to require more sophisticated techniques and probably a lot more time. Knowing your taste and uncompromising nature I would guess you are generally happier with the model so far. As excellent as the first shot was, this one is heading toward that elusive goal of "superb". -- Russ
Thanks Gordon. Appreciated your and Alex's input.
Thanks Russ!....wow..I have never been able to get past Adequate.
So far I am actually prettypleased with this...considering this model was never actually going to be finished (this makes another one Nick....in case you're counting).............there are issues with it though ...and still plenty of time and things that need to be done, that will allow me to screw it up. :)
If it were me I would quit now while I was ahead!
But, even if you mess it up you can strip it and do it again! Then you will have three completed projects!
;D
Looks awesome!
Looking good, the dirt buildup is great.
Fine dustiness Marc! The chassis, the body, the whole is harmonious and perfectly realistic ...
Franck
Thanks guys....but still getting more drastic :)...and more to go.
Needs a small sign in the cab... "please wipe your boots"
I'd have said it looks satisfactory, but if Russ wants to go with superb, I can go with that as well ;D
Cheers,
Dan
Very interesting crumbly effect in the mud.
I for sure will learn a lot with this one.
:)
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 14, 2013, 02:46:16 AM
Thanks guys....but still getting more drastic :)...and more to go.
... please make sure not to go over the top again ;) ... http://www.ingr.co.uk/images/sar_locoNo10001.jpg (http://www.ingr.co.uk/images/sar_locoNo10001.jpg) ... why not maltreating a former fork lift instead (hint) ... ;D ;D ;D
Cheers
Very nice Marc!
The real thing... ;)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv77%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059327%2FDSCN1749-vi.jpg&hash=df6bffd94eed3deac4f8a0c3703c14e1ed2d447f)
I sent you a PM, did you received it?
Franck
Thanks Franck,
That is the loco I was using as a general example/direction.
Here are some of the other images.
Yes, got the PM....sorry, been so hectic with working and trying to get this build and article done, I completely spaced. I will check the dimensions and get back to you.
#2
#3
....also using the images of this loco.
Ok Marc!
Great inspiration these pictures, isn't it? ;D ;D ;D
I'll post more later ...
Franck
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 14, 2013, 02:44:37 PM
....also using the images of this loco.
Just to be a smartie pants , I'll tell you where these locos operated . Baustoffwerke Muhlhausen GmbH, Betonwerk Treffurt . More photos ( with less mud) can be found in Die Feldbahn Band 9 , just before the photos of my brick sheds in Ferna .
Nick
Thanks for the info Nick. I had assumed/figured they were at a brick works facility.
The last of the dirt and mud......still drying...so coloring is a bit darker and monochromatic than it will be when dry.....one more step to go.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages16.fotki.com%2Fv363%2Fphotos%2F9%2F921732%2F3603269%2FoVG5au48CuvqxqoSUwSvqY6Sd-vi.jpg&hash=28feeb32d4a0ba2f6c23601ba16937cdf9671684)
Marc, especially after analyzing the above photos I've decided the model actually looks terrible. Are you sure you want to continue? Maybe you should wash off the paint and start from scratch .... -- ssuR
WOW. That is beautiful.
Marc sorry if I missed it, what Magazine is this article going to appear in?
Yes, Russ...it is absolute rubbish...one big caricature....... I will wash it all off once Dallas finishes his Diesel.
Wesley, thanks! I did go a bit heavy/exaggerated on the dirt/mud build-up, but that is the article subject. It will be in the next issue of The Weathering Magazine, by AK. The issue is devoted to Mud.
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 15, 2013, 04:11:56 AM
Yes, Russ...it is absolute rubbish...one big caricature....... I will wash it all off once Dallas finishes his Diesel.
Ah! Then ...
a) The finish is safe for a while ...
b) I can take the photos of your critter, use those to make decals and simply "slap on" a similar finish on mine ...
c) Then you can scrub yours off and do it properly.
Got it! ;D
Dallas
Marc,
How did you fix the pigments? With fAK fixer?
Franck
It's not so much pigments as it is "other stuff"....but yes, one of the products I used to hold it was the "Pigment Fixer". .....this whole process was an experiment to see if I could create a hybrid somewhat of a "Franken-technique", by combining a Chuck Doan approach, with an armor modeling approach. ;D
You used real dust? ;D ;D ;)
Franck
......funny you should say that, yes, the process does include dirt sifted almost as fine as pigments.
The whole thing is basically easy to do.....it took all of 4 evenings......but it is not for the faint of heart, or those that want a quick and easy solution...and will need at least one round of practice. Luckily, if you do scre it up before the last step or so....it actually CAN simply be washed off with water....and have no ill/residual effect on the underlying painted model.
Well, this should keep you guessing till the article comes out......though it will likely be a bit disappointing when you see how basic/simple it is. :)
I use the same kind of technique based on real earth ...!
After having heated, using an oven, the real earth to kill all the vermin, I reduce this earth in a fine dust, with a stainless steel pestle and also stainless steel sieve, with small mesh to collect a fine dust ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpmcdn.priceminister.com%2Fphoto%2F926826853.jpg&hash=4948da05a94ba4b9fa22d6e5af18abfc525fed15)
;)
Franck
Yes....but that fine mesh is not fine enough. ;D. I think the ones I used have openings of around .004" and .002"
Hey don't be draggin my name through the mud! ;D
Fascinating!
Time to call this done.
Contast between the paint surface, and yellowish tone of the mud are a bit strong in this image..likely due to the lighting...but it gets the general idea across.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/934124_3023774609364_147772300_n.jpg)
...and the left side
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/969400_3023807090176_1471014271_n.jpg)
On to the next project.
That looks great! All so subtle ... seem to recall that you have a little scenic base ... any chance of some photos of the wee beastie on that? Would be nice to see the coloring against some background. -- Dallas
Thanks Dallas!
On the base....ummm....well, that pretty much has been relegated to the "Use for future experiments, or toss in rubbish bin" drawer. I wasn't happy with the feel of it, so never really did anything more with it.
Wonderful finish Marc. Dirt looks good and loose still. The oil staining around the axle boxes is real nice with the different bleed marks.
As for the base, who says it needs to be on some track? Plenty of the reference pics show one of these similar little numbers just parked in the dirt outside a shed. There's a future project...thinking a low relief fascade (a-la Mr Doan), with a salvaged loco out front of the "collectors room".
Cheers,
Dan
Marvelous! For such a heavily weathered beast, the effects are handled with remarkable subtlety.
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Marc,
Final shots look good. You have really captured the "crumbly" look on the dirt very well ...... Something I must try.
You mentioned the lighting/ contrast and it may well be that which makes me think the dirt around the engine sides seems too "yellow ochre" , in the earlier shots the dirt under the seat and around the driving position looked greyer which to my eyes looked better
So on the basis it's at least 1% off perfect , you had better junk it ............ You have the address just put it in the post, thanks
:D :D ;)
Thanks guys.
Dan, a shed is a good idea. I have an idea that I think Gordon might appreciate, of building a really simple one....maybe just 4 pipe columns, and a sloped corugated roof....then cover most of the ground with leaves and other detritus. It could fit right on that little base. :)
Thanks Ray...I am still torn on the amount of weathering....but then, that was the task required. :)
Gordon, yes the soilis actually lighter and there is more grey......though the fixing solution did darken and color up the clumps and mud mix, a bit more than I had anticipated/hoped....but it is still not as ochre as the images....and there is more grey at the edges. The whole thing is very strange...I think that with the flourescent lighting I am shooting under, and the greenish tint of the grey, along with the very slight ochre tint of the heavier soild, I am getting some kind of a wierd color clash. Too late to ship it....after I took the pics, I boxed it up and stuck it away in the closet.....saving it for future experimenting.....and one other brief use......who knows...maybe I'll end up washing it off once more :)
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 18, 2013, 04:09:21 AM
Dan, a shed is a good idea. I have an idea that I think Gordon might appreciate, of building a really simple one....maybe just 4 pipe columns, and a sloped corugated roof....then cover most of the ground with leaves and other detritus. It could fit right on that little base.
Now you wouldn't , would you ?
just remember my plastic discs should arrive this week ;)
....just realized I am too busy to build the shed. Need to work on my bricksl ;)
You are going soft in your old age Marc!
I would just have reminded me , politely of course , where the picture of the "shed"came from !!!
I have a photo of the ideal " lokschuppen" for your masterful creation , but it can't be built until Diorama Debris release their concrete block mould .
Nick
Joli travail ! J'aime beaucoup l'aspect bien crasseux, les boites d'essieux qui dégoulinent d'huile...
Franck
Watch out, Franck -- no secret code language or you will have to stand in the corner (debout dans le coin). My secret code translation probably lacks finesse but one does what one can.
Which reminds me, should we change the national language of this forum to Latin?
Russ
Damn! If Marc understands French je perds mon temps à lui écrire en Anglais.
:)
Merci Franck. Très apprécié, de l'homme qui a mis loco la marque de banc et m'a inspiré.
Alexandre .... pas vous ne perdez pas votre temps, parce que vous ne voulez pas voir mes tentatives au français.....from what I was told when I was there, "Tout Francąis cèst criminel!" ;D
Sorry, now I forget that I'm on an Anglo-Saxon forum! ;D ;D ;D ;D ::)
Nice work! I love the well filthy appearance, axleboxes that are dripping wet of oil ...
Franck
Quote from: finescalerr on May 18, 2013, 11:53:52 AM
Which reminds me, should we change the national language of this forum to Latin?
Russ
... me thinks, we've been THAT far some time ago in Jacq's Logging Project Discussion ... ::) 8) ;D
Quote from: mad gerald on November 22, 2011, 02:05:46 AM
Quote from: finescalerr on November 22, 2011, 01:31:48 AM
We could all speak Latin ....
... [sic!] ... (si libet, licet) ...
We already know Marc is a mulitlingual showoff. Now it appears we have several. At my advanced age all language skills seem to have faded dramatically. Maybe I'll emulate Berlitz and invent my own damned language!! -- Russ
Marc,
The accumulation of dust and dirt on the deck are not surreal ... Far from it! Reality sometimes exceeds the model ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages14.fotki.com%2Fv373%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059327%2FNDVD_006copie-vi.jpg&hash=61cb5410e707b61808973a8eec56c6fbc7347631)
Franck
So Marc whoever was looking after that real loco you faked in that last picture should be fired for not doing his maintenance!
Brilliant model work Sir.
Michael
Michael, thank you kind sir. Much appreciated.
Franck...thanks so for that last photo....makes me feel much better about my improvising. I guess there really is an example for almost everything. ;D
Another quick view a bit more from above.
Marc, I think something is missing! Where is the exhaust pipe? Huh? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
Franck
Alright already! Your talent is immense. We know that. But what have you done lately? -- ssuR
So, when are you going to run an article on this..or are you waiting for the Bachman conversion one? :)
Franck...if you bend over and look closely, I will show you where the exhaust pipe is. :)
Okay, okay, I'll run the darned article as a favor to you. If I've remembered correctly, I'm also doing you a favor by publishing an article on a different subject -- NOT the Bachmann conversion. This is really getting complicated. You need to tell me which favor to do first.
The exhaust pipe remark made me burst out laughing. Go stand in the corner.
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 27, 2013, 01:03:50 AM
Alright already! Your talent is immense. We know that. But what have you done lately? -- ssuR
Well Russ, cool, what's bitten you? it was just a joke, to tease Marc, I put enough smiley, right?
Indeed, you're right, I have not done anything for the past two years, my last model is here, (june 2011) :
http://public.fotki.com/FranckTavernier/135-scale-freelance/
I have not told the whole truth, I also restored this small Decauville in 1:43.5 scale, during the 2012 last six months...
http://public.fotki.com/FranckTavernier/021t-decauville/
...But I have other worries, much worse than modeling, Russ, since january 2012! Health problems for me, and now my family, maybe my children, then modeling goes going after ... and I had to make choices ... QED...
Sorry... Marc...:-\ :'( ::)I'll try not to make jokes about your models now, any feedback on your designs, stunning moreover, and I do not miss often to say...
... Nick may be able to tell you a little more ...
Franck
Franck...my reply to you was not serious..it was a joke (that's why I put the smiley). I think it may have gotten lost in translation. I always understand that/when you are joking....and I enjoy it....that is why I joked back about kicking you in the rear. :D :D
No worries, I enjoy being poked fun at...and have very thick skin...and I will give as good as I get. .......so not easily offended about my work...even if people are being serious and not joking. :)
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 27, 2013, 03:25:11 PM
Franck...my reply to you was not serious..it was a joke (that's why I put the smiley). I think it may have gotten lost in translation. I always understand that/when you are joking....and I enjoy it....that is why I joked back about kicking you in the rear. :D :D
No worries, I enjoy being poked fun at...and have very thick skin...and I will give as good as I get. .......so not easily offended about my work...even if people are being serious and not joking. :)
Marc Reusser ? Thick skinned ? Mmmm, time to consult the dictionary to clarify the meaning of the term ! ???
I did not say I like people, or that I suffer fools, dimwits, slow people, people that cant get their sh** together when in line in front of you, people that can't drive, people that cant seem to grasp the task at hand, and people that have no common sense or pragmatic reasoning skills, well....and don't mess with my pets, car or bicycles......other than that I don't have any real issues. :)
Ok, ok Marc, I understood that your answer was also a joke ...
Sorry, That's just gossip...
Franck
Sorry to revive this corpse...but someone had asked about a photo of the loco on a base/scenery....
The stars and circumstances sort of aligned today, and I had a moment to take a quick phone snappie outside in the shade. Hope this is ok.
where's the shadow from the tree?
-Mj
There's nothing in that shot that gives it away as a model!
Thanks Ray, helps to have that grainy Zabruder image quality. :)
Marty, It's the view down from in the tree. :)
That looks great! Very boggy.
So now your climbing trees ???
Dam nice model and picture.
Jerry