Glover Machine Works 2-6-0 in 1/16 scale
Three-foot gauge 2-6-0. The drawings are in the March-April 1998 Gazette. The drawings are good with both side elevations on the engine a top view and all four elevations on the tender all four elevations on the cab and boiler, along with three cross sections and a clear look at the side frame. There's no drawing on the back-head or inside the cab detail, but it does show the locations of the different pipes and levers going into the cab. There's no brake detail except the shoes that are on the back side of the flanged drivers. The drawings are in 3/8 scale, half the size of my model. I always make a working drawing for all my modeling projects. Before starting work I took a large sheet of graph paper and drew up a simple scale drawing.
With the locomotive being on display in Atlanta, I was hoping there would be a photo or two on the web, but haven't found much. In TimberTimes Issue 54, the article "The Little Loggers out of Marietta" has five catalog illustrations of five different little Glover locomotives and a brief history of the company. I'm also going to buy the book "Glover Steam Locomotives: The South's Last Steam Builder" and see what's there.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Oh boy, another fun Scratchman build!
That is an excellent book Gordon, you will enjoy it I'm sure.
Great! ;D
Looking forward to this build.
I saw the Glovers in the TT and really liked them.
Guess now I will have something to follow if I build one (in brass). ;)
Keep 'em coming!
-Marty
I have a book about Glover Loco Works with a lot of good photos. Two show a couple of U.S. Navy switchers in San Diego circa 1915. I drew plans based on the larger Grandt 1:48 Porter kit and Richard Christ and I cobbled up this close copy of the Navy engines in 1:32n2. Due to a rare lapse in my good taste the clunky cab differs from those of the actual engines and, as with my 8 ton Grandt Porter, the frame is bowed. Even brass stiffeners were of no use. That flaw spoiled both models.
Drivers by Terry Van Winkle.
Glover built some nice stuff.
Russ
Nice model Russ, despite the not-exactly-noticeable flaws.
Thanks, Russ for the photo of your little loco. My copy of the book will be here at the first of next week, I hope it will be helpful for this project.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
LARGE SCALE STYRENE BOILERS
Most of the modeling on this thread will be in 1:16 scale but the technique can be used on some of the smaller scales as well.
The way I go about building scale boilers is a core and wrap technique. I will wrap thin styrene sheet around a core shape of the boiler. I don't do any of the wrapping until the first 4 parts of the core is complete.
Plastruct Tubing
Traditional ABS Round Tubing from Plastruct. "Code TB" this tube runs from 1-1/2" to 6" O.D.. I at 1/4" intervals
The Core (for the boiler)
Part #1: For the boiler I will use a piece of tubing or some type of pipe. I will use the closest size to the smallest diameter size needed on that particular boiler. I cut the tubing on my 8" cut off saw with a 8-1/4" finishing Blade 40 Carbide teeth. I cut a little longer than is needed and I then use my 10" disk sander to size and square up the ends.
Part #2: For the bottom of the fire box I build a box out of basswood. I fit the two parts together keeping the two parts flush at the back of the boiler. On a piece of graph paper I will draw a cross section of the two parts and use it to line up the two parts when gluing them together. Now that the two part are joined I use my 10 inch disk sander to true the back of the two parts.
Part #3: For the front of the fire box I built a wood carving 1/4" thick and glue to the front of #2
Part #4: For the back-head I build a wood carving 1/4" thick and glue to the back of #1 and #2
Part #5: For the smoke box front I build a two styrene disk, an inner disk that fits inside of the front of part #1, and a face disk that either fits inside or outside the smoke-box wrapping on the front of part #1
Photo #1
At the bottom is the core of the Glover water tank along with the top and bottom parts of the wrapping. These are added to the core and shaped before adding the side parts of the wrapping.
At the top is the five parts of the boiler core for the Glover. Next to that is the five core parts for my Aussie loco #1. My Aussie loco #2 has all the wrapping parts and I have started adding detail. On the top far right is the first wrapping for part #1 The short boiler front shows the smoke-box front inside the smoke-box wrapping on the front of part #1 and the two parts to it's left are stack posts. These items are for a SBS that I will do later.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5333/14085626976_52528cac22_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Photo #2
This photo shows the wrapping for the Glover. First I wrapped part #1 starting at the front and stopping at the front of the fire box Part #3 over this I added two layers of 1/4" X 040 styrene at the front and back of the lagged area. Between the styrene strips I added painters tape to level in the void. Over this I added a top and bottom piece of formed styrene sheet with a seam 90 degrees down from the top on both sides. There's no lagging inside the cab so all I had to do is wrap a piece of styrene sheet from the bottom of the fire-box over the top, down to the bottom of the fire-box on the other side. I added a styrene sheet on the bottom of the fire-box to this the ash pan will be added. I also added a thin styrene sheet over the face of parts #3 and #4 and blend the edge so it will look like one piece. This gives a better surface to glue on the detail.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/13955163487_362740746d_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Photo #3
This photo shows how I joined the top and bottom of the outer layer over the lagged area. First I glued the top piece to the 1/4" strips. Along the seam of the two halves I added a styrene spline piece 005 X 1". The spline is glued to the under-side of the top half and then glued to the painter tape. Now you have good base to add the bottom piece. Also in this photo is the start of my drawings (note) on the blown-up drawings the cross section of the boiler and fire-box. This was used to keep parts #1 and #2 lined up when gluing them together. When the core is finished I can set the back-head on the cross-section and mark the top, bottom and two sides. Now the boiler is ready to start adding detail.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14138522971_52679c1253_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Great stuff! I like hearing what kind of tools you used to get the large tubes cut and the ends squared.
I look forward to seeing what kind of magic you perform on this model. -- Russ
Quote from: Scratchman on May 10, 2014, 11:04:48 AM
Thanks, Russ for the photo of your little loco. My copy of the book will be here at the first of next week, I hope it will be helpful for this project.
Gordon Birrell
The Glover book will make you want to build a bunch of locos! Looking forward to your efforts on this one.
-- Dallas
I got my copy of the book "Glover Steam Locomotives: The South's Last Steam Builder" and Dallas, you are right. I would like to build a bunch of Glover locos, but there are no plans out there and the surviving locos are few and far between. The plans in the Gazette are good as I stated above, but it is too bad that Al never had a little more time and information to have improved on these drawings. Russ, you are right, those little naval engines are way cool, along with almost every engine in the book. The book is going to be very helpful for my project. And for the machine shop modeler there are a lot of good photos and information. I wish I had added this book to my library a long time ago.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I agree, I found the Glover machine shop pictures very helpful when I was building my shop.
Thanks for the review Gordon!
Off to Amazon................
-Mj
Nice so far but you already know that. That book sounds interesting.
Jerry
The Core (for the Water Tank)
I used 1/8" and 3/4" basswood I cut all the pieces to height on my table-saw so that all the pieces be the same. Then each piece is roughly cut to length and then trued up on the disk-sander. On the ends of the pieces that goes next to the tubing, I sanded a bevel to match. I cut two 1" and two 7/8" pieces of tubing to the height, and with the aid of a scale drawing, glued all the pieces together. I then true up the top and bottom on the disk-sander.
The Wrapping
I start with 0.040 (or larger) thick styrene for the top and bottom. I will cut slightly larger and glue to the finished core. Using a sanding stick I sand the edge to be flush with the core sides and then round off the outside edge all the way around the tank.
For the wrap on the sides I cut 0.020 styrene sheet to the correct height and glue to the core, leaving the edge of the top and bottom wrap uncovered. Now that the core is covered the rest of the detail can be added.
The Frame
I went with a metal frame instead of a wood frame. I used 3/8" channel from northeastern scale models for the sills, center sills and end beams. Styrene was used for most of the other parts. I think the wheel-sets are from Simpson I cut the axle in half and used a piece of tubing to make it the right gauge. I used set screws to represent the springs
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/14155739818/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/14341604214/
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That tender is a masterful piece of work!
gordon
the detail of the little handles the loco side of the tender is really well done love them.
regards kim
I'm kind of partial to the photo of those four little rascals in the kitchen. -- Russ
That tender is cute, but in a good way.
"set screws to represent springs"
Excellent idea and they look just like springs. One of my big model railroad pet peeves....the horrible real springs that are used.
Also...I got lost in your flickr page....where did the time go???
Paul
Hi Gordon,
Are there any updates on the Glover engine?
Ron Knepp
Heres the two photos in reply #17
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2918/14155739818_bcc2ea0b08_b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5239/14341604214_1315307dd3_b.jpg)
Thanks guys for your comments. Kim, the water valves are castings from Trackside Details. The two domes, bell, stack, stack base whistle, number-board and pop valves are also castings from Trackside Details. Before I add the ash-pan detail to the bottom of the fire box, I build a jig-base on a 8"x10" piece of plywood with a sheet of graph paper glued on to the top surface I will line up and level the boiler on this surface. I first added the rear section of the frame to the boiler. With the boiler setting on the jig-base I joined the two parts with the frame setting on temporary spacer blocks added to the jig-base to keep the assembly true and level on the boiler. Now I add jig pieces to hold the boiler to the jig and spacer blocks to hold the cab floor on both sides On this the cab floor and walls can be added to the boiler. For the running boards I added spacer blocks at both the front and rear to hold them at the right location so the braces can be marked and added. One more item for this jig are the two rear cab supports. The cab spacer blocks needs to be cut off a small amount at the rear to make room or the two supports. After these are added the jig the can be discarded and I can start adding the rest of the detail.
Trackside Details Domes: Three sizes 1", 1-1/8", and 1-1/4" . I used the two larger sizes. They worked very will on my 2-5/16" diameter boiler.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3906/14736497254_413c83798f_b.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14552189670_d374277db0_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Looking good! Those Trackside Detail parts are really nice.
Thanks for the update Gordon, I really like your
assembly jig.
Ron Knepp
Prediction: It's going to be a gem. -- Russ
I concur Mon Uncle!
Gordon -
It's a pleasure to see how you go about creating your outstanding models. I work a lot with styrene and I'm a big believer in drilling jigs, assembly jigs, etc., but you've taken that to a whole new level with this build.
Bill Martinsen
Quote from: Chuck Doan on August 10, 2014, 08:32:07 PM
I concur Mon Uncle!
Get it right , Chuck . It should be " Mon Oncle". http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mon_Oncle
I reckon M.Hulot is the spittin' image of Russ . Well , that's how I imagine he looks like .
As in M. Hulot's 'Oliday? Naw, I look more like his kid. -- ssuR
Thanks guys for your comments. Here's two photos of my progress.
The next jig is a flat board with graph paper and two strips of basswood glued to the top. The two strips are spaced out to the track gauge. To this I added wood assembly blocks to hold the boiler cab and rear frame assembly in place. With the help of this jig the rest of the loco can be added.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/15305685619_6cbf72c837_b.jpg)
Out of styrene I finished the rear frame with coupler pocket and the two rear cab braces. The ash-pan is build out of wood and styrene. The tri-cock valves are castings from Precision Scale Co. The injectors are scratch-built. And all of the valves and valves handles are from Trackside Detail
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/15305685519_9100c129f8_b.jpg)
I will finish all of the pipe detail and other cab detail before adding the roof.
Gordon Birrell
Construction quality remains adequate. -- Russ
Outstanding what else can one say.
Jerry
Beautiful work, Gordon.
I model in 1:13.7 scale (7/8ths of an inch equals one foot). There are very few detail castings available in this scale so scratchbuilding items such as injectors is just a necessity. I'd love to see a close-up or two of your injectors so I can go to school on how you made them.
Bill Martinsen
looking great Gordon!
Great stuff, very inspiring as usual.
Amazing as usual!
Its a while since I have seen any updates on the Glover. I was wondering what driving wheels will you be using as trawling through suppliers there is little or non in the way of G scale or 16mm loco driving wheels available, its all wagon/coach wheels. The only way I could think of having any would be 3d printing (for a static model).
Les
Thanks guys for your comments. I've been working on 1:1 projects on my home all summer long. Now it's time to get back to modeling full time.
Bill... I copied castings from Trackside Detail for my injectors. I'm working on the rest of the cab details, before moving on to the running gear,
Les...I will build up the drivers the same way I did on my little Baldwin loco.
Goron Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Here's some photos of my progress on the Glover loco.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/16319953289_647aed88a6_b.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7448/16505214912_3ebfae3bd9_b.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8561/16505214692_ca84fbaf6b_b.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/16504502741_042362d809_b.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/16480241556_dffcbbaa8c_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Sweet!
More good looking than somewhat. -- Russ
Very Nice - nice to see the updates
Barney
Very nice details !
Riveting details!
Starting to show the unique Glover features. NIce!
Bill, did you just write "riveting details"? Go stand in the corner! -- ssuR
ssuR, Standing in the corner is a new experience (well, not really, a couple old elementary schools have some initials scratched in their corners).
I guess if I can't match the modeling I can at least try to match the puns.
Proper punishment.
Lawton, go stand in the other corner. -- ssuR
Thanks guys for your comments.
Here's a photos of my progress on the cow catcher.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/15953061384_3dc92b9c86_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Looks very good, but too flimsy to catch a cow. It might catch a rabbit or even a wolf but cows are big and heavy and tend to take a dim view of hostile locomotives. - Russ
Great work. Besides the models themselves, the jigs you come up with are pretty amazing too.
Gordon,
What are the railing bases (green) O scale lampshades? or ????
And the balls?
Do you have to drill them yourself?
-Mj
Yeah I see some plastruct lampshades on the pilot beam...
Paul
Gordon, looks very good. I second what the others said about your jigs. I like your material mix. What kind of glue do you use for connecting the wood and plastiv parts? CA?
Cheers,
Volker
Thanks guys for your comments.
Marty... the balls on the hand rail are 1/8" round head pins. The rail-post is 1/16" tubing that the pin fit inside. The top rail is 1/16" tubing with 1/32" tubing that fits inside with around 1/16" longer on each end to fit in a 1/32" drilled hole on the side of the balls.
(Google round head pin.) The green base is a plastruct lampshade. There are four sizes and I am using the smallest. I use the largest size on my fordson tractor.
Volker... I use a thin CA
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Thanks guys for your comments. Here's photos of my progress. These photos are the last before painting the frame. The wheels side rods and driving rods will be removed before painting. After the painting is completed the removed parts will be permanently added along with the rest of the reverse and brake parts
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8812/17801053069_b120e47c79_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8827/17366769083_52f1cfd538_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5335/17801053239_b8f4410506_b.jpg)
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7672/17960853956_2d10e72213_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Nice to see all the inner details.
Most impressive, as always!
What are those two brass parts? They look like some kind of cylinders?
A testament, thus far, to your requisite skills. -- Russ
What the others said. Phantastic detailing.
Volker
Thanks guys for your comments. Here's two photos of my progress. The frame is now finished and painted.
Ray ...The brass parts are the brake cylinders.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8846/17991483199_4180b01636_b.jpg)
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7797/18174119262_5ecdea1719_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Very Nice!
Yes, very nice!
Looks great!
What did you do for the wheel treads? they look perfect!
Marty
Yeah, what Marty said. Did you use those Testors "Metalizer" paints that you buff when they dry? -- Russ
Thanks guys for your comments. Marty, l used a graphite pencil over the Engine Black paint and then a light coat of Dull-Cote. The Dull-Cote washes the pencil out so I may take the wheel off one more time and do the pencil thing with out the Dull-Cote. If that don't look good I will do another coat of dull-Cote. BTW I got this trick from you.
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Hard to believe it's styrene!
Now that's funny Gordon!
I must be getting old!
I have been using the mig dark steel powder as of late and honestly forgotten the pencil trick.
-Marty
Thank guys for your comments. Here's some photos of my finished loco.
This photo showing the loco on it's base and this sitting on a carrying cradle
The base... 3/4" x 6" x 23". board. I added a layer of Matt-board to the top with wood rails to sit the loco on. The entire base is painted white to match the back-drop. I don't want anything to distract from the model.
The carrying cradle...1/4"x 8 x 26" tempered hard board with plywood handles.
img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/780/22038195206_f8e75b5ca9_b.jpg[/img] (You need to look at my flickr page to see this photo)
Five photo of the finished loco.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5645/22074341541_5402f47a94_b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5765/21876490388_802bf43199_b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/22038194796_95e91331b9_b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5824/21441547104_c99b5bf508_b.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/701/21441546904_ccb1246d15_b.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Wonderful work Gordon, I am always amazed at what you do with styrene.
Michael
Beautiful work Gordon.
Jerry
Absolutely stunning!
Is it secured to the base in any way?
Another beauty! Interesting prototype too.
What the others said - absolutely amazing and beautiful.
I think I retired too soon. -- Russ
Russ:
None of us will hold it against you if you come out of retirement andstart publishing again.
Gordon, Terrific looking model! Even after having seen the in progress photos, still hard to believe it's styrene.
Very good idea with the all white base, yet the wheels are on "rails" not the ground.
Let the accolades continue to pile up!
They are all well deserved!
Another stunning model.
Congratulations Gordon!
-Marty
Incredible with inspiration
Barney
Just to say thanks Gordon, your model gave me the inspiration to go "big" with my Alco, though of course not up to your incredible standard.
Les
Thank guys for your comments. Ray, it's secured to the base only with the wheel-flanges tight on the rails.
Here's a photo of the backhead.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/747/21966795758_cfbcb531c8_z.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Thank guys for your comments. I build bases with rails and carrying cradles for my two Shays and my two class A Climax locos.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5636/22758006017_0f438e142d_z.jpg)
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Gordon, I published your articles for what, ten years? We've spoken on the phone, e-mailed dozens of times ... and this is the first photo I've ever seen of your workshop and how you store your models. Thanks for posting it. -- Russ
Hi Russ and Gordon,
this review of the work would wonderfully fit into this thread (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1828.15)
I love such contributions.