Hi all.
time to start a new topic.
Dirty Dog will be about rolling stock built to the scale roughly of 1/32 to 1/35 and running on 16.5 mm [HO] track.
the first one I posted last week was the people carrier and now I am working on a log disconnect-see photos.
I really love South Creek and it will continue to travel and post pictures but there are a few details that bother me and time is the only solution.put it away for a while pull it out and usually, the solution is right there. I hate being in a situation that you have to make a hasty solution they for me never work for me.
cheers, Kim.
(https://images12.fotki.com/v1667/photos/3/1816483/14515115/P1040826-vi.jpg).
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1552/photos/3/1816483/14515115/P1040836-vi.jpg?1550643696).
(https://images14.fotki.com/v1315/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040846-vi.jpg).
The stained, oily rusted metalwork on those disconnects looks absolutely disgusting -- in other words, exactly as it should. As I've already mentioned, I also very much like the weathering on the "people carrier". Most satisfactory.
Kim, over the past few years your modeling has become even better and more artistic than it used to be. For those who don't know it, Kim and I go back to the mid 1990s when I published the first of two of his 1:32n2 shelf diorama layouts. I wish I had digital images of them to post here. Kim was far ahead of the pack even back then.
Russ
Nice weathering on those log cars.
Absolutely superb weathering, you can just feel that oily rust.
Les
Hi all.
here is a bit of reference for the modeller who likes narrow gauge and trucks.
cheers,Kim
(https://images34.fotki.com/v1605/photos/3/1816483/16118448/40866503_7383519394275524608_o-vi.jpg)
That looks too neat to be ignored. Hope someone models it.
It looks like a racing loco MG might have made in the late 1940s. -- Russ
Thanks, Kim,
I love it! Could that be a battery mining
loco converted to IC with a tractor engine?
Kim or anyone have more pics or info?
Carlo
Looking at the name plate on the side I would guess it is the illegitimate child of a McCormick reaper and a John Deere tractor.
I will see all of you in the corner later.
Lovely stuff and that loco its one for the future
Barney
what would life be without grot- dust and grime !
hi
I nicked it from an Australian narrow gauge site it was used in the logging industry I will see if I can find out more. love the original tractor seat under the roof or more like the lean too at the back I suppose it was chain driven.
cheers
here we go.
An Mc Cormick Deering railmotor pictured at the Salt Company Kangaroo Island South Australia 1938.picture from the State Libary of Victoria Australia.
(https://images53.fotki.com/v1657/photos/3/1816483/16118448/41344855_7778933316408836096_o-vi.jpg)
yes, a great little loco with a lot of modelling potential. personally, I really would take my hat off to anybody who could do it.it would be a really hard job just look at those wheels and imagine the transmission and the grill and then to get it going o my, I think I will stick to something a lot simpler, funny how the homemade style of loco in the 1-1 scale are really complex but still really nice.
cheers
seeing that I am on a roll I will post 2 photos of an electric narrow gauge which are quite doable, both I really like .the green version has come from Helmut and is my current project in 1/35 to 1/32 scale on 16.5 gauge .i will use a Tenshodo Spud drive. i think it will be a fun build with some great painting possibilities.
cheers.
(https://images46.fotki.com/v677/photos/3/1816483/16118448/78851229_5122978299816685679_n-vi.jpg).
(https://images42.fotki.com/v1215/photos/3/1816483/16118448/29730335_1063625221807800320_o-vi.jpg)
Class Kim I'm excited for the construction report. Need more pictures of the locomotive?
Yes, Helmut, more pics please!
Carlo
I once watched a Utube video of a mining loco in western Russia in which the electricity for the motor was picked up using a hand held wand. Not practical in a model but SCARY.
Post photos of your progress. This should be good. -- Russ
Hi all.
the little loco is taking shape, the basic underframe is finished and the spud has found a place. Now I am making a mock-up for the rest of the project I find it a really interesting build so far.
I have also found 3 more photos of different variations of the cab and floor.
cheers Kim.
(https://images108.fotki.com/v1629/photos/3/1816483/16118448/IMG_1931-vi.jpg).
(https://images45.fotki.com/v1200/photos/3/1816483/16118448/IMG_1929-vi.jpg).
(https://images14.fotki.com/v219/photos/3/1816483/16118448/IMG_1930-vi.jpg).
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1670/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040889-vi.jpg?1552644972).
(https://images46.fotki.com/v297/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040886-vi.jpg).
(https://images53.fotki.com/v716/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040883-vi.jpg)
good morning all how are you all.
my little electrical is moving along most of the upper part is finished to a primary level now painting and detail.i have never done a double sided wood panelling with a small radius before, a bit of a trick and fiddly but eventually worked.
cheers, Kim.
(https://images44.fotki.com/v1409/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040895-vi.jpg).
(https://images53.fotki.com/v1457/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040900-vi.jpg).
(https://images20.fotki.com/v207/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040902-vi.jpg).
You are capturing the essence of the loco; very charismatic. -- Russ
That McCormick-Deering loco is way too cool! Definitely would be awesome to model, and might be doable in 1/24th.
The model is looking great too!
hi there.
moving along and the little 15 horsepower electrical loco is nearly finished just a few more little details. the roof is sheet lead a material that I love a hole that can be covered gives access to the set screw that holds the motor in place-see picture. the pantograph is piano wire bent then held in place with thin surgical wire super glue finishes the joint it is movable. the paint job is a mixture of water and oil based paints distressed.the last detail are the couplers these are the common link and pin, which brings me to the point of the variety of narrow gauge couplers none are commercially produced so they all have to be scratch built.
cheers Kim.
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1670/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040937-vi.jpg?1554034401).
(https://images20.fotki.com/v1666/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040919-vi.jpg?1554097120).
(https://images43.fotki.com/v1384/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040950-vi.jpg).
HI Kim, a successful Model with Charm.
thanks, Helmut.
I will make a few wagons to go with it.
my thoughts have been going in the direction of how to produce clay sewer pipes in 1/32 to 1/35 scale. if you could it would make a great looking load on the wooden wagons.
cheers Kim
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Kim, A fun little electric loco.
There is air-dry terra cotta clay available, but extruding it for pipe would be a challenge. What about a length plastic tube? Heat one end and push a rounded dowel tip into it to create the pipe flange?
Make one prototype of the pipe and then resin cast the rest.
Kind of reminiscent of the old Toonerville Trolly comic of years ago.
morning.
I had to Google Toonerville Trolley comics -I like the driver with the beard it reminded me of a Disney character.
The pipes, fiddly but there are a lot of sizes which will make it a bit easier the scene that I see -pipes on wood stacked .broken pipes and sand on the floor, we will see
cheers.
Maybe you need to add a door with a crescent moon cut into it to make Russ feel at home.
I'll start for the corner now.
Lawton, you are now in deep trouble. -- Russ
Kim,
I like your loco very much. It has a lot of character and looks very convincing. And so the pantograph does.
Cheers,
Volker
Wow, that turned out great! Lots of character in that little loco.
cheers everybody for the positive feedback.
Kim
Stop! Sorry, I have missed the opportunity to congratulate you to such a harmonious work. I especially like the paint job on your little loco!
Cheers, Peter
Kim, shoot another photo or two of the trolley and get closer if you can. I want a better look at that little gem. -- Russ
Hello Kim
I checked all your work here at the forum. Really outstanding!
Me personally I appriciate most is that you use cheap materials without expensive machine tools to build your things.
All looks very handmade. And this is in my eyes the key of the realisme you achieve.
It is more than just a simple reproduction of the reality. All your work has this little touch of personality.
Great!
its got character - very nice piece of work
Barney
hi All.
here are 4 more photos,what I need to add is a string to pull the overheads up and down and a bit of lettering.
I think that the most popular models in all the subjects are scale reproductions.with the arrival of more technology a greater amount of detail is possible .most of the time I am ok with that i look at it as a fusion of technology and art especially if they are fully working models that are accurate representations of history.
With me, I make lots of mistakes and my feeble attempts to cover up my mistakes give it a lot of character, machines, if programmed properly, do not make mistakes my stuff is all built without proper plans I make it all up it is a lie.
the fusion to me is producing a standard range of narrow gauge couplers and some other items that are hard to make properly by hands, graphics transmissions.
cheers Kim.
(https://images20.fotki.com/v207/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040968-vi.jpg?1554608563).
(https://images54.fotki.com/v461/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040968-vi.jpg?1554608591).
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1670/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040973-vi.jpg?1554608620).
(https://images46.fotki.com/v147/photos/3/1816483/16118448/P1040976-vi.jpg?1554608646).
Thanks for the extra photos, Kim. And I have a few thoughts:
First, as I have said before, your models are like works of art. While they may not be perfect replicas, they are very close and create the right impression and have more charm and character than a perfect machine-made model. (Incidentally, I bet I make more mistakes than you do.)
Second, although maybe this belongs in the 3-D printing thread--but you brought it up, I saw 1:22.6 scale prints from a Formlabs printer last Monday and they are gorgeous--much cleaner and of higher resolution than stuff I've seen from Shapeways. Without any cleanup at all they look like molded styrene and the resolution goes down to 25 microns, just under 0.001-inch. The method the printer uses is "stereolithography" and the price for a compete setup with some packs of resin is probably about U.S. $5,000. A friend has one.
So, for those who want 3-D parts in almost any scale, maybe we need to find a guy with a Formlabs printer and learn to draw with SketchUp.
As for your own models, Kim, forget the printer and keep doing what you're doing. It is most adequate.
Russ
HI Kim,
as a Discoverer of the Model, I would also have liked to have recreated this lovely Role model. Only I want to stick with my Klosterstollen Model and not get lost in too many Projects. That's why I'm glad that you created such an irritating Model with my Suggestion.
Russ,
But what is possible with 3D Printing we could also see at the Lamps of my BBA, for which Volker drew me the Template.
But At the Moment I will still stick with my Models, which I can largely create from Milling Parts. But Would like To relearn the 3D Sign with up-to-date software in order to be able to realize Transactions, for Example.
Kim - I call it "Freelance Prototype" modelling - It looks like the prototype or the real thing But it has a few deviations or
modifications many of which happened through its life time using bits and pieces around the work-shop at the time - I find it makes the finished job look more interesting and justifications of this sort of thing more than often happened in real life !!
especially in "backwoods" areas Normally when equipment has been sold and resold to various owners
The things I have seen done on vehicles /tractors Narrow gauge locos /steam engines is quite unbelievable and would make the Health and safety people shudder ! and to end its amazing what a roll of black tape (the old type not the plastic type) a hammer
and an old bean can do to get you home !! all part of the essential tool kit never leave home with out it !
Barney
Hi, all this barge I think has been posted before but with another paint job. last week I redid it and has been photographed with a decent camera, not great but much better than mine. first texture and a rough job, using an airbrush knock the top off the color then detail with watercolors.
cheers.
(https://images40.fotki.com/v719/photos/3/1816483/16118448/292666665_446345607129333760_o-vi.jpg).
(https://images42.fotki.com/v1257/photos/3/1816483/16118448/26000045_8946859804660334592_o-vi.jpg).
(https://images14.fotki.com/v1315/photos/3/1816483/16118448/62666678_9088675149418332160_o-vi.jpg).
Hello Kim
Stop ruining all your new stuff! ;)
Great work you show us here again.
I appriciate the effect of the rust peeling from the base. It is really nor just a color but it seems it has a real thickness and show bulbs.
How did you do this?
Hi, thanks for your reply.
without trying to be smart I really don't know how I do these effects if I tried to do it exactly again it would be impossible.so I will try here is a photo of the barge before.
(https://images51.fotki.com/v1638/photos/3/1816483/13956619/P10001271024x768-vi.jpg).
as you can see that I had done some work on the styrene barge before but it is not very good.so I pulled all the stuff off and just used the original finish as the base coat.I then applied a very thick coat of textures, powders and both oil and water based paints at this stage it was a total mess very uneven and pitted I also replaced the roof. bring out the airbrush and lightly mist it all with light grey which combines, deaden the mess but also leaves a very absorbent base for the finish. my finishes are watercolor which I love and washers of thinner based oil paints I also build up my texture as needed .my textures are powders very fine sand and scatter landscape materials.the more you get into it the more personal it becomes but I hope you get a bit of an idea.
so texture and watercolors.
with airbrushes, I use it a bit but the amount of cleaning usually means that it is kept in the cupboard a lot.in the last 5 years there has been a lot of specialized hobby paints that have come onto the market my attitude is that they are great especially their multi-purpose primers but-find a art supplier that you like and start using them instead.most of their finishes can be reproduced from art suppliers.
my last bit is about photography i was impressed when my barge was snapped by a half decent camera,it bought out all the detail that has always been there .i have to get into it so i ask your advice on lens and the type of digital SLR not too expensive though as i am a bit of a thrifty shopper.
cheers
Hi Shito.
I really appreciate that you posted in English it is my big regret that I do not know another language especially German.I hope that Google translate in the future becomes more user-friendly in the future then we all can communicate freely.
cheers
I always approached weathering as you do. It took forever until somehow I would stumble onto a decent appearance, always impossible to duplicate. At that point my main emotion would be fear giving way to relief.
What kind of budget do you have for a camera? Do you already have a fairly current smartphone? If you have an acceptable camera, even a decent smartphone, the key is to shoot with a lot of light. We can discuss everything here if others are interested or you may send me an e-mail.
Russ
OFF TOPIC... but Russ, I'd like to get some tips about shooting pics with an iPhone 6 camera.
Is it worth trying? Can I do a decent macro (photograph objects that are 2" X 2" X 2") ?
Carlo
Ultimate Grot + inspiration - and I don't think I would want to paddle in that water - keep it coming
Barney
hi.
I will start another thread in the modelers at work section regarding photography.
cheers.
Carlo, the short answer is "yes". See Kim's new thread for details. -- Russ
Hi all.
I have been working on my rust painting techniques of late this is my results -a harbour mooring boy. the picture needs a bit of light from the base but I am pleased with it as it brings out all my colors.
cheers, Kim.
(https://images54.fotki.com/v556/photos/3/1816483/16118448/DSC_1576-vi.jpg)
Nice and grimy!
Hi all,
getting back into the swing of things and are now in the process of building a small boat that I hope will be part of a small diorama based on the action comics of the 1930,40 and 50.these 2 photoes show the beginning of the construction process as well as my progress on taking photos, an improvement I feel all the result of the white balance and bracketing my shots .
cheers, Kim.
(https://images40.fotki.com/v26/photos/3/1816483/16118448/DSC_2200-vi.jpg).
(https://images49.fotki.com/v120/photos/3/1816483/16118448/DSC_2250-vi.jpg).
Please explain what we are seeing. Is the top photo a first attempt / rough draft? -- Russ
Hi yes of course.
I want to build a small boat of my design so the first photo is a sort of rough draft to set out the ribs and also to get the basic shape right.
The model is of waterline type that is there is nothing below in the water so you can see that waterline shape in the first photo. On that template, I have glued oversize pieces of Styrene that represent future ribs and along each side, long pieces of thin cardboard that set the hull shape thus the first photo is a template.
The last photo is where it comes all together.
The exposed ribs have yet to be added and they will be laminated 0.5 mm timber.
The finished model will be wood with a paper sale, one of the sideline items will be an outboard motor in a rustic style.
So these photos show my way of setting out a small scratch boat of an unusual design.
cheers
I'll be very interested in how you build it up, especially the side planking. I've always assumed nearly each plank must be cut to a specific shape and I've never figured out how to do that. -- Russ
I too am interested in seeing this process played out.
Hi everybody.
The process of laying out the shape is called scribing I learnt it in my past life of employment my method is different from most boat builders their process is laying out every rib individually and assembling to a plan.
The hull is now 80 per cent finished clad in 0.5 mm pieces of wood of various widths a fiddly job but surprisingly enjoyable.
And lastly, a picture of my tool chest to do this planking embarrassing simple I use super glue as it is fast and a no 3 blade very sharp and solid just the thing for cutting the sheets of wood .
cheers.
(https://images49.fotki.com/v22/photos/3/1816483/16118448/DSC_2532-vi.jpg).
(https://images53.fotki.com/v1657/photos/3/1816483/16118448/DSC_2545-vi.jpg).
(https://images46.fotki.com/v678/photos/3/1816483/16118448/DSC_2563-vi.jpg).
An interesting and attractive design. And thanks for explaining that the key is to cut strips from sheets of wood. Sounds like it would be frustrating and fussy until you get used to doing it. -- Russ
Cool.