While waiting for some parts do dry and cure on the boat project for the MIG Challenge, I decided I might need a back-up project in case I couldn't get the boats completed in time ::) .... plus I felt some of the guys in the build were just having too much fun with the car models, and I felt left out ;) ;D ......so ......Friday evening I picked up a Tamiya 1/48 Volkswagen kit.
....and this is where I am as of this morning.
As you can see, very little of the kit was used. It is missing the wooden platform/floor, and a wooden plank seat. The horse is from my scrap box...it was part of some horrible kit from the 1960's...with a plastic that just would not take any glue.....I finally ended up filling the halves with epoxy and clamping them......seems to be holding for now. Once dry it needed a LOT of rework and parting line/gap clean-up. (took almost as long as the VW and cart). I still have some harness & tack work to do (tape is just temp.)
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The brass tubing is .06mm dia. from Lion Roar. The cart frame is made from .060" 'H-column" styrene shapes, cut down to a 'C-Channel'
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Since I knew nothing about VW's, I went and did some very quick research on what the basic interior and body appearance of a gutted VW was...but unfortunately a bit late...as I had already cut down and used the rear interior that came with the kit, before I noticed that it was quite incorrect in shape....c'est-la-vie. The body was heavily thinned (to about .005"+/-) at all the lower edges and the fenders, so that it could be deformed/dented. The interior of the roof was also progressively thinned and shaped, towards the exposed edge. The interior was built using .010" and .005" styrene.
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Holes were drilled on the exterior where the chrome trim strips, and makers insignias were removed. The cowling for the license plate light was hollowed out, and the rear tail lights were modified (the left drilled out completely, and the right milled deeper and a wiring hole added)
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Because the cart sits higher than the original kit, and the interior of the wheels might be visible , at a low angle, I modified them to have a slight bit of detail. The mounting posts on the rear of the rim part were cut down to be flush with the rear surface of the wheel casting. The two leftover rim parts were then sanded until the inner detail could be removed....this detail was then applied to the plain rear surface of the wheel casting. The tire tread on the contact surfaces was also sanded down.
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I will probably build a small base for this....thinking somewhere in Africa (Rhodesia or Angola) in the late 1970's.....so some redish ground, grey trunked trees with green foliage.
Marc
I thought I should probably show my "inspiration" for this:
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Marc
You never cease to amaze me in what inspires you!
-Marty
In Canada they were called "Bennett Buggys" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bennett_buggy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bennett_buggy)
Looks great Marc
Cheers Michael
Great fun Marc, love it... its a Hoover wagon! An ignominious end to a noble beetle. Isn't that the first Yugo by the way? ;)
Paul
THE answer for the present car industry's problems. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Reduced CO2 and less speeding tickets. ::)
great to see idea's like this taking shape.
Jacq
Humour and excel work!
I adore this way of practising model making!
Sincerely!
Lloyd
Interesting looking project , Marc .
What I'm really looking forward to is your SBS tutorial on painting and weathering the horse . Can't wait !
Nick
Thanks for the kind words guys.
Michael, great link. Thanks...always enjoy learning something new.
Nick, I too look forward to seeing how I paint a horse. >:( :-\
...well, today was just one of those days.
During my lunch break I painted the whole model a deep rusty shade using a mix of Tamiya acrylics thinned with Mr. Hobby thinner. Then This evening I went in and with a sponge and washes, added rust tones using the Life Color set....after which I masked off most of the model so that I could paint certain areas with color....and this is where it all went to hell...first the mask leaked/bled...then while cleaning some of the areas with warm water, the rust shedes wore off in places...then the base color started to release from the model! >:( ......so I just decided to strip it....I started on the outside first using Mr Hobby thinner...then 90% isopropyl alcohol.....then warm soapy water. I was just about to start stripping the inside, when I noticed that through whatever chemical reaction, I suddenly had ended up with a really cool weathered finish on the interior....pretty much what I was after....and it had happened all on its own!
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...now I just hope I don't screw it up when I repaint the exterior again. ::)
Marc
I thought you modelled on your own, but it looks you are cheating. >:( :o :o
You received a lot of help from a fellow named Murphy ;) and this times not in a negative sense. :D
This looks very good, sometimes it shows up best when not under control ;) ;)
When doing the interior, will you touch up the runner showing between the two rust colours ?
Jacq
It's ironic that much of our best work is achieved by accident . I bet you couldn't reproduce what you have done if you tried to do it again .
I am interested in seeing how this progresses as I also have the Life Colour rust set and might use it on my Opel Blitz project if yours comes out OK ( which I'm sure it will).
What did you use for masking ?
Keep doing the experiments so that we can learn from your mistakes !
Nick
Jacq;
These days I seem to need all the modeling help I can get. :-\ :)
Nick;
I have been wondering how I could possibly replicate that for the exterior....really is just about what I need/want to achieve. :-\
I used Gum Arabic for the masking....since I got such great crisp and clean results on the FMW trucks....only I was trying to hurry it along, and not thinking clearly...on the FMW trucks all the paint was Floquil (Oil Based)....here I was shooting water based...and quite thinned too....this of course doesnt really work well with a water soluble mask like Gum Arabic :-\ Were I using Tamiya acrylics thinned with Mr. Hobby thinner for the color I was spraying instead of the water thinned Vallejos I think I would probably have been OK.....but Tamiya doesnt have the colors i needed to make a Volkswagen blue engine bonnet, and a yellow fender.
I did in the process discover/create some really cool and scale layered chipping effects...which I probably also will never be able to replicate ::) :-X.
The Lifecolor set is "interesting"...I havent really gotten the hang of using it the way they suggest....so I am using it more with varied thinning, and then using it with a sponge or a kind of wash. I feel it is too strong straight from the jars, and really prefer building it up in very thin layers....gives more control, and tonal/depth variation....I also tend to switch back and forth between colors to achieve varied layering and transparency.
I also tent to primarily use the two darkest colors...I have no idea what to do with that lightest yellow-orange color...it just seems to garish and "off" for my taste. If I go that light I will use a mix of Bragdons powders..or something like toned down Floquil "Rust"
Marc
I must admit when I first saw the pics I thought wow I wish I knew how Marc achieves these fantastic results with the paint. Then reading your explanation made me smile, trying to replicate happy accidents is the bane of all modelmakers in my opinion, I think it is in this endeavour that we do our best learning.
regards Michael
Nice rust effect Marc!
You said...Serendipity? ;)
Quote from: jacq01 on February 25, 2009, 01:42:09 AM
When doing the interior, will you touch up the runner showing between the two rust colours ?
Jacq
Jacq,
Which "runner" are you referring to?
Marc
Marc,
there appears a light " blob" on the inside of the roof, that doesn't have the jagged transition as the rest. Runner is not the correct word, it's more a dried out spot of light rust. It is the sharp transition and the distinct shape that attracted my
attention.
Jacq
Ahh... Ok...that's fixable (or hide-able)...I thought you meant a "runner" like part of the vehicle or cart frame.
So here is Where this is:.....I have also found a goat, that I think would be a good addition tied to the rear of the cart.
The body has been painted as follows:
Base coat of Tamiya XF-64 "Red Brown"
A light spotty, and very thinned, layer of Life Color:UA702 "Rust Base Color" from the Diorama Series.
A filter of Windsor Newton artists oil color #33 "Prussian Blue"
A thinned and worked wash using MIG "Neutral Wash" & MIG thinner.
A light and spotty sponged application of Life Color:UA702 "Rust Base Color" from the Diorama Series.
A slight spot dusting application of Bragdons "rust" powders.
I was trying to achieve that look of sun-burnt metal that has been sitting in a desert climate for years, and has developed that slightly mottled darkish brown finish that also has a slight sheen to it, and only shows minor amounts of fresh oxidation.
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In the last image one can also see the correction to the body where the bumper would pass through, to better match a real VW Body. I also removed the left tail-ligt, and still need to drill the bolt and wiring holes where it used to be.
I am unsure if the rust finish/effect is working, and will work with what I have in mind for the finished model...so I am experimenting with the possibility of doing a heavily chipped and worn paint-job....so I did a quick experiment using a modified version of the "Hairspray Technique". Instead of using straight hairspray, I used a 50/50 mixture of hairspray and Gum Arabic, applied in a thin layer with an airbrush. This was then airbrushed over with a solid coat of Tamiya acrylic, once dry, I used the air eraser with baking soda, to slightly pit the paint....then using different brushes (to see the different effects) and water, "chipped" the color coat away. I wasn't trying to get any specific look....I was mainly trying to see if the addition of the Gum Arabic would make the hairspray come off easier and/or differently.
Once the chipping was done to simulate some discoloration, I went in with a 0/15 brush and "mapped" some light areas of Vallejo Flesh and yellow colors onto the remaining Tamiya spots.
This side was removed with a short stiff 0/10 brush.
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This side was removed with a regular 1/4 wide flat brush.
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The Gum Arabic mixed into the hairspray does make the paint easier to remove.
I am still unsure though whether I will be doing a chipped look on the car.
Marc
Marc,
Looking great, wonder when the "zoo"will be complete and painted :D. :D
This is not qualifying in the abandonded challenge as it the VW is in prime use ;) ;D ;D
Jacq
Marc:
The EPA will love this. I'm assuming the goat is an auxiliary air-cooled power supply and waste-recycling option (damn things will eat anything!). :D :D :D
Paul
Here is the next step In the painting of the cart.
I had some requests to show a better SBS of the rust and chipping method....so I did this for this. Sorry that the images are a bit off color, but I did not have the time to do photo set-ups while working through this.
Here is the base color of Floquil "Roof Brown" airbrush edged with a medium rust toned Vallejo acrylic .
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Next step was to determine where I wanted to mask and create the lighter rust pattern. Random sized ground pieces of salt were applied over lightly dampened surfaces.
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The Kosher sea-salt was ground to various sizes using an old pepper-mill; each surface/area/panel was then dampened seperately using a flat brush; the salt was then apllied using a small PE scoop, to better place/control the salt application.
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A light coat of Life-Color light rust (from the "Diorama Series" weathering set) was applied with an airbrush, in various intensities.
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The salt was removed using two various stiffness brushes.
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A solid coat of Teseme hairspray was applied.
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Thin coats of Life-Color acrylic color were applied. I used two shades to give me some variation in the final chipping.The Dust color being the primary color...applied over the Light Blue.
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Next came the chipping. The primary tools for this were the two small cut down/stiff britle brushes. The toothpick was used for some touch-up and detail chipping The softer brush was used where needed to slight dampen the working area/location. Individual areas/panels were chipped one at a time, the surface was lightly dampened (not dripping/running wet) with the larger brush, the small stiff bristle brush was dipped into a cup of water, and then used to slowly work the dampend area/paint surface till the paint started to chip. (loose paint collecteng on the brush was rinsed off in a second cup of water, any loose pieces, paint sludge, or water on the model surface during the process, was dabbed up using a lint free cotton rag.) [The reason for the engine cover and one fender being devoid of chips is because they will be painted another color.]. Where needed detail chips, small edging rework, and such was done using a damp tooth-pick.
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Marc
A bit more progress....
Some mapping of the chips, using off white, pink and yellow Vallejo acrylics.
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The different colored fender and Engine compartment cover. I am happy with the fender color, but I hink the blue went a bit too grey on me when it dried, compared to manufacturers colors.
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As I post this I also noticed that I forgot to mask the rusty Oval and drill the two holes, on the left fender where the tail-light used to be.
Marc
Excellent SBS and results!. Don't forget to darken the louvers a bit.
Most satisfactory. And the gray-blue doesn't bother me at all. Blue fades. -- Russ
Marc,
Excellent SBS for what is shown here and for what I have read on the MIG forum(with my English-Dutch dictionary beside me ;D) Sure going to try this
One question thoug. For the best result for the layers of paint, it is best to use a airbrush? Or is just the common brush good enough, bringing on the paint thinned enough.
Leon
Thanks guys,
Chuck: That's a thing that has been bedevelling me. Sometimes when you go back in and paint or darken those types of areas, the come off looking hokey or ...well...painted. I really shoild have thinned ot the plastic from behind at the very beginning, so that they would be real openings. :-\
Russ: I was unfortunately trying to get that very boring middle blue (not the powder blue...though that would have worked also) that I used to see VW's in in europe during the 70's. The yellow is that ugly sunny-yellow color that they used to sell them in here and in South America (don't know if they had that color in Europe).
Leon; Though I have never tried a brush for either the salt or the hairspray technique, the basic mechanics and fluid/material interactions pretty much dictate that you need to use either an airbrush or a spray can. If you try brushing a paint over the salt, you will dislodge most of it, and the paint will run under and around the salt thus enacapsulating it or disolving it into the paint.....in either case ruining not creating he desired effect and potentially ruining the paint finish. The problem with the harspray is sim. the wetness of the paint and the action of the brush will disolve/soften the hairspray, and mix/bond the paint and hairspray together, creating a "sludge" (messy mixture) that will likely result in a horrific brush stroke mess on the surface....and will then not chip as intended (if at all).
Marc
Beware the exhaust.
John
Marc
Nice goat!! But the car is just beautiful. Great lessons being learned here.
Jerry
so is this ONE horsepower??? ::) Craig Mich
That salt technique is the best thing to come along in ages.
Car guys use it a lot on 1/25th scale junkers with fantastic results.
It really turned out great on the VW.
Thanks for the hairspray shots, too. This model is getting really good!
Craig: it has goat back-up just in case (sort of like nitrous).
Ken: I had seen it around but never really tried, or fully understood it, till Virgil Suarez blew into the MIG forum and did several great SBS using the technique. It's another great tool to have in ones box.
Marc