Monday I was just so trashed from last weeks work load, I decided to take the day off, and have some mindless fun. I decided to build the MaK kit that arrived Friday from Hobby Link. (This is the first of these I have ever built, so if I am guilty of some kind of "MaK heresy", I apologize in advance.) So far it was a quick and fun project.
I am waiting on the skull from Andrea, and I have to sculpt the skeleton left arm and hand, as well as add the hoses on the right arm.
The basic concept is a rusty Mak, suit with a broken/shattered glass visor, that over time has become partially buried (or unburied) in the shifting desert sands. The skeletal left arm reaching out in a plea for help or possibly a warning. The holes around the figure will all be filled in and sand piled/blown against the suit.
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Marc
Marc, Can't wait to see what you do with this one!!........Randy
I guess this will go on the beach on the boat diorama?
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
-Anonymous....
Interesting project Marc. For some reason I keep thinking of those LifeAlert commercials... you know, "I've fallen and I can't reach my beer!" ;) ;)
Paul
Marc, I'm afraid you finally have gone off the deep end. Do seek therapy before it's too late. And take your medication. -- Russ
Great Marc...... Can't wait to see the endresult!
Not very trainrelated....... :o ;D ;D ;)
Marc
Does Darth Vader know he's lost one of his men!!!! :'(
Jerry
Great composition!
Thanks Guys.
Paul: Now I just need to find that 1/20 scale beer can.....or maybe it rolled down the hill out of the scene ;D ;)
Jerry: That's what happens when they go out for a loaf of bread and pack of smokes, and never return ;D.
Roland: I refuse to be pigeonholed ;) ;D ;D....I was originally visualizing this as a much larger scene...sort of a two sided diorama, where if you looked from the front you only saw the stranded MaK....but if you turned it to the back, there was going to be a pit with a sort of an early 1900's archiological excavation going on, which had some V-tip cars and track.....but I decided I just wanted a project to blow off some steam, relax, and experiment with some painting and weathering techniques.....besides I really did not feel like sculpting 50+ arab workers in N or TT scale ;) ;D ;D
The figure was primered with Gunze Mr. Resin Primer, then received a base coat of Vallejo Acrylics (2/3 Germ. SS Camo Black-Brown, to 1/3 Hull Red).
The reason for this color is to establish the base color of sun burnt steel. Long exposed steel in desert climates will tend to develop a dark black-blue-red-brown surface patina. Shorter term exposed areas, or old surface areas that have been scratched, pitted by sand, etc, will have a lighter series of rust colors (of course there are variations of this also depending on the type of metal, and the environment)
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Next the pieces were given a heavy filter of Windsor Newton "Prussian Blue" (artists oil paint), this was followed by an overall burnishing/application of MIG "Gun Metal" pigment (this was applied using one of those Tamiya foam brush thingies)...this was followed by a brush applied light dusting of Bragdons rust pigments. The rust pigments were then mostly wiped away or also burnished into the surface. More texture and coloring to come.
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.....and this last one is just for fun (ship is a 1/700 scale model. The 1918 Australian cruiser "Vampire")
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Marc
[EDIT:] Below are some pics I am using as reference. Note the sheen and coloration.
Two more of the examples I am using.
Gee! I thought it was a railroad picture and he was trying to put his derailed train back on the track.
John
It seems that I have had a bit of a setback.
I was working on adding some initial "positive chips/mapping" (this was not the final color...which will be more of a yellow/green)....which was then given a thin wash of burnt umber artists oils....when the problem began....
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On these pieces you can see where the application of the wash casused the rivets and the edges of the shoulder plates to wear off. This happened big time on the main body section and helmet :-X :-\ ......the only things I can figure it was due to, either the use of straight turpentine instead of the weaker odorless thinner; the Vallejo base color did not bond well enough/properly to the Mr Resin Primer, the paint had not cured long enough before I started working over it, or I did too many steps in succession too quickly without a proper curing/drying period in between.
I probably could have touched up the areas, or hidden them in the next color step....but the whole time while working on this, I also was noticing that some of the puttied seam lines were slightly telescoping through....probably accentuated by the surface sheen......so today I soaked the parts in 90% Isopropyl alcohol, and stripped of all the color. :-\
Will start over tomorrow, but will take a slightly different, and easier/quicker approach this time around. I may also use either Tamiya or Floquil (oil based) paint for the base colors instead of the Vallejo.
Marc
When my idea doesn't work, I hide it and deny that project exists.
John
I have a closet full of projects like that!
Sorry that happened Marc. I hate taking more backwards steps than forward.
Chuck ,
Can I have one of your failed projects , please ? They have got to be better than one of my best efforts ,
Marc ,
Sorry to see you've hit a problem . Hopefully you can sort it out . If not , maybe you can fall back on one of your other started projects .
Are you going to get your boatyard wrecks finished in time to enter in the MIG Forum competition ?
Nick
Nick,
i am still working on the Boatyard, but it is really slow going. Am currently working on the wooden hulled one. I may get them all built in time..but painted...is looking a bit unlikely at this point...luckily the paint work I am doing on this one is serving as a good test-bed/practice for parts of the boatyard.
Marc
It's baaaack! :D
This time around I took a different approach to the painting. First a base/prime coat of Floquil (oil based) was applied (9-parts "Roof Brown", 1.5-parts "Engine Black", 1-part "Caboose Red"). Over this was applied a shading/highlighting with a 50/50 mix of Panzer Aces #343"Shadows Flesh" & Model Color #136 "Leather". After a day of drying, Ground coarse salt was applied, then a fogging/highlight of straight "Shadows Flesh"; some of the salt was then lightly blown or brushed off, and a fogging of Lifecolor "Rust- Light Shadow" applied. All the acrylics were shot on the "dry" side, so as to give a slight surface texture. (the white flecks, stain lines, and white around the armpit is some salt residue that will be removed.)
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Next comes hairspray, and Color Modulation.
Marc
Marc,
great, those different shades of rust...... finger licking :P :P............Glad it turned out ok.
In Dortmund I'll look for these paints, as here they are not available/hard to get.
Jacq
Marc,
Interesting project, nice to watch your diversity. V2.0 looks off to a good start. I was reading up on the hairspray thread over on MIG, and think I am now starting to get my head around it a bit. I have a gas mech that is still just primed, so I'm probably gonna give the hairspray a try on that inthe near future. I also have a couple of old Gundam suits down in the cupboard somewhere, and hadn't thought much of a "post battle" scene. Rust and decay sounds easier than painting them "nicely". I've just finished a 2 year slog with our Dolly Varden layout, so I might even tinker with them for a bit of breathing space after the railway hangover settles. I'll be interested to see the skeleton section when that happens as well. Good stuff as usual.
Dan
Marc, This Ma.k. stuff is really neat!!.....the Lifecolors are new to me, how do they compare with Vallejo for the airbrush ? Thanks, Randy
More gooder!
John
Terrific look Marc. Even though it's not staying the salt around the armpit looks like the remnants of an old gasket.
Excellent rust & texture Marc... looking good. Glad to see the "pink" is gone - was beginning to worry about you a little bit there ;)
Paul
Thanks Guys. I am pleasantly pleased with it.
Dan: Will you be posting pics of the Dolly Varden layout? Would be really interested. This was my first time using the salt technique. FWIW I posted this response to a query about it over on MIG...maybe it is of interest/use:
"This was my first time using this technique. Sorry I didn't take SBS photos, I was trying to cram it in before dinner time and before it got too dark to paint (I paint outside). I will take some pics as I do the VW. IMO one thing that can cause a problem is if the surface is too wet (so the salt starts to disolve rather than just stick), and if the paint is applied too wet or too heavy; too wet makes the salt disolve, and too thick makes it hard to remove or can cause a ridge (which might be a desired effect in some instances, but is definitely "scale dependent"). For the salt I used a prefilled/disposable salt grinder from a "Trader Joes" store, mixed with some Kosher salt. This gives you all sizes and shapes. To apply it I wet/dampened limited areas or surfaces with a soft flat brush and applied the salt as I went, trying not to accidentally re-wet areas where salt was already applied. To apply the salt I used a small PE scoop (It fits into a #11 Xacto handle, unfortunately I can't remember what PE tool set it came from...I bought it at the Jordi-Rubio shop..so It might be from them or maybe Tech-Star)....the scoop easily lets you pick up small and large grains and get a pretty well controlled application."
If you decide to build the Gundams please post the builds. This site/forum is focused only on MaK http://maschinenkrueger.com/forum/index.php (http://maschinenkrueger.com/forum/index.php) but you might enjoy browsing about for ideas inspiration...or just for a change of scenery ;).
Randy: I have not shot the normal range of Life-Colors through the airbrush. The one I shot was part of one of theier weathering sets..so it had a different composition and consistency. I shot it un-diluted (as this specific one was already thinned)...and it shot on really well and smooth. It was hot and dry here yesterday, so it did seem to suffer from the same issue as the Vallejo's.....drying in the nozzel after short periods of use....which required a quick tip removal and wipe with a soft rag (I could probably have used a retarder had I not been lazy). It dried very quickly on the surface, and had a beautiful dead-flat finish. The pigment seems to be very fine like the Vallejo, so it went on nice and smooth and evenly. It was a bit toughr to clean the airbrush than the vallejo...it seemed to dry harder (though this could be just this specific composition)...In the end it to 90% Iso alcohol and some q-tip effort to det it all out. A note re. my experience with the regular life color paints: I have found that over a period of time they do tend to thicken or dry out. I try to check mine every other month or so, and add/mix in a little bit of distilled water where needed.
Paul: You should have seen how flaming it was before I added the wash over it ...bright Fuschia ;) ;D
Jacq: Which paints are not available?...The Floquil and the Life Color? The floquil oil based will probably be difficult or impossible for you to find in Europe, due to the Environmental laws. But the Life-Color should be relatively easy to find from a good armor modeling supplier/shop. And the Vallejos should be no problem whatsoever. What are you currently using to paint your models?
Marc
Hi Marc,
Yes, I will start a Dolly Varden thread here in due course, just got a couple of magazine commitments as far as holding back a few good shots until published. With the Australian NGC on this weekend, the layout will finally be set up as one piece, and I will be putting aside a bit of time to do a photoshoot for the next article. Got to drive the layout about 1000km in the back of a very big trailer, so hopefully it is still presentable upon arrival.
Thanks for the further salt tips as well. First really read about that on the Boulder Valley site, and would like to try it with some varied size grains (from rock salt to fine table salts, should offer a good spectrum of chip sizes).
The Mak link was interesting, few ideas in there. I'll have to pull out the boxes and see how long they sit on my bench before I actually restart them...
Dan
Marc,
QuoteWhat are you currently using to paint your models?
presently I am using Humbrol and Revell enamals with nafta as thinner. Only paintbrush hand work. Primer, color and nafta based washes. All sawmill machinery is done that way with very little powder.
I am too lazy to get the compressor out and set up the airbrush at the moment, i have only small assy's to do.
Spraying outside is no alternative here, too much wind or change for rain.
In Dortmund I will stock up on acrylics, I chucked out the present stock as it was not usable aymore.
Vallejo is high on the list together with Master Colours. Life-Colours is an alternative.
Floquil I had many years ago ( together with Polly-S ) but they thickened too quick and it could only be thinned with Diosol(?)
Jacq,
I have some adresses here in Holland who sells the vallejo paint. And have the same price as humbrol or revell.
Will send you a pm with the information.
Leon
Darth Vader returning to "TATTOINE" has discovered that the armour for his Storm Troopers is not rust proof!
After closer inspection he has found this to be only a model!! :o
Most Excellent job CDR Reusser. Very life like indeed.
Jerry
Just something for fun. 1/700 Scale; the Australian cruiser "Vampire" from Tamiya.
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[url=http://[URL=http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/66_47/77_26/1a.jpg](https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhotimg23.fotki.com%2Fa%2F66_47%2F77_26%2F1a.jpg&hash=2600b7f6f77c6d4f9421ec4ccf558e89fbd7a239)
Marc (http://[url=http://hotimg25.fotki.com/p/a/66_47/77_26/3a.jpg)
Lord preserve us! Brother Marc is off the deep end. 1:700 scale destroyers. Robots clawing dirt. And no doubt coming soon ... the men in the white coats! I have but one word of advice (before it is too late!): P-R-O-Z-A-C.
ssuR
Well...back to the Mak.....
For some reason I went against all my better judgement, and sealed the rust base colors with a matte sealer....and it did exactly what I hate about sealers...it took away all definitiona and individuality of the various rust tones, and "blended' them into one same sheen/finish.
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....on the bright side, the sealer really saved my ass, because I had a complete brain-fart, and sprayed on the paint without adding the hairspray first.....luckily, because of the sealer, I was able to use the Tamiya X-20A thinner and a stiff brush to scrub off the color coat....which actually IMO yielded a really interesting and cool finish and pitted looking surface [I will definitely work with this effect on another project].....
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Some varied color tones were added using Tamiya and Games Workshop paints.
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Then it was on to the first round of chipping. The blue and green base layer was chipped first, then the orange-rose color was masked, sprayed with hairspray and color, and chipped.
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....some mapping and and then more weathering to come.
Marc
MORE, MORE, MORE, your experiments are contagious.
Fantastic results..
I'll have to get my airbrush out of the attic.
Jacq
I've said it before;
A true "master" is not great, he just knows how to fix his screw ups!
Great save, and another great tip to try!
Looking good so far.
Did you get the skull?
-Mj
You have an amazing ability to break down colors and get them located relative to one another.
John
Thanks guys. So far it has been a very helpful project in trying out some new techniques and trying to get specific finishes. It's easy to buils and robust, which makes it perfect for removing mistakes and starting over without a lot of worries about fragile details and time invested.
Marty; Skull is not here yet...and I am still trying to find an easy out to building a skeleton arm and hand (I think I need to make a trip to that germ and disease cesspool known as Toys-R-Us :-\) ....it would be better if it were Halloween instead of Easter.
Marc
Great, great, great! I really like this technique. Could you tell more?
QuoteLord preserve us! Brother Marc is off the deep end. 1:700 scale destroyers. Robots clawing dirt. And no doubt coming soon ... the men in the white coats! I have but one word of advice (before it is too late!): P-R-O-Z-A-C.
Yes, your right, but as I see the progress.... well, let him take some prozac more and let the white guys come ;D ;D ;)
Grtz, Ron.
Thanks Ronald,
Have a look here on the MIG forum. It is a 4-page thread, complete with SBS, photos, comments and discussion of the "Hairspray Technique", will give you the best explanation and more than you probably ever wanted to know ;) ;D. If you have questions or need any additional info/clarification after reading, let me know.
Cheers
Marc
Marc,
Quotewhich actually IMO yielded a really interesting and cool finish and pitted looking surface
This looks exactly like sandmoulded castings. Never seen this in plastic models so far.
Great SBS. Looking forward to the rest.
Jacq
QuoteHave a look here on the MIG forum.
??? ??? ???
Quote from: Ronald on April 16, 2009, 03:08:04 AM
QuoteHave a look here on the MIG forum.
??? ??? ???
Sorry...
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3293 (http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3293)
M
WHEN THEY COME TO GET YOU, I'D LIKE TO GO WITH YOU!! JUST TO LEARN SOMETHING THEN RETURN!!!
JUST TOTALLY AWESOME WORK.
JERRY
Jerry
QuoteJUST TO LEARN SOMETHING THEN RETURN!!!
Don't you see it. ...... There IS NO RETURN
Jacq
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on April 16, 2009, 03:21:28 PM
WHEN THEY COME TO GET YOU, I'D LIKE TO GO WITH YOU!! JUST TO LEARN SOMETHING THEN RETURN!!!
JERRY
I don't know about that. Last time it happend that they came and got me it was a bright ligh, little green men, and I vaugely recall all sorts of probing. :o
Marc
Small and slow progress.
Today it was "mapping"/discoloring the color chips. This shows the areas of mapping in the rose colored areas of the shoulder plate, and beginning on the helmet. Mapping was done using thinned Vallejo acrylics applied with a 0/18 brush. The rose colored areas were done in a random mix of pink and white, while the green areas were done in a mix of pale blue and yellow.
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Next comes the start of rusting with the oils.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 17, 2009, 12:26:45 PM
I don't know about that. Last time it happend that they came and got me it was a bright ligh, little green men, and I vaugely recall all sorts of probing. :o
Well, such an in-depth experience undoubtedly explains a lot... ;D
Very nicely done Marc. I particularly like the effect you've achieved on the numbered panel. Very convincing...
Paul
Today the rusting started.
This was done using a combination of Windsor Newton artists oils, MIG rust pigments, and some Windsor Newton Guache & water colors. (The underside of the arm received no rusting, as it will not be seen in the final setting)
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I also played around with some "watercolor mapping" for lack of a better word.....by using water colors I was able to apply some interesting transparent mapping to some of the chips.....its almost more like "filter mapping"...it's pretty subtle (because I used fairly thinned color) and doesn't really show in the images...but is visible on the model.
Here are 4 "quickie" 1/48 barrels (and one 1/35) that were done using the same approach. Were they to be used in a scene, they would get some dust, and maybe some oil stains as well.
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Marc
Here are 4 "quickie" 1/48 barrels (and one 1/35) that were done using the same approach. Were they to be used in a scene, they would get some dust, and maybe some oil stains as well.
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Marc
[/quote]
Hell I thought those were his knuckles!!!!
Jerry
Beautiful! What colors of oils and how long does it take for them to dry?
Great weathering, Marc.
I like 'em. -- Russ
Excellent job on the barrels, Marc. They remind me of those 'reference' photos of the burn barrel I posted on RR-L a few years back.
Thanks Mike....I still have those photos printed out and stuck in my refernce binder.
Chuck: I used the Windsor Newton artists oils....I'll have to get back to you on the two colors. (Think it was Burnt Umber, annd Burnt Sienna....but let me make sure). In order to try and reduce the "sheen" from the oils, I used the trick of placing the paint dabs on some carboard for a bit first...then picking up small amounts from there with a brush and diluting them with turpentine in an artists pallette for application....it helped a bit....thought still gave me some sheen...which was OK on the paint areas...but needed a bot of touch-up with pigments on the exposed rust areas. (mainly the larger areas where you could tell the difference/edge...on the smaller isolated chips it was not noticeable). A way around the sheen on the runs is to use Humbrol flat enamels...I tried some of this on one of the barrels......it takes more effort and work to get the streaking that I wanted (and still couldn't get it the same as with the artists oils...maybe with more practice)...but it was dead flat.
The one part that I am really having some fun with and getting good results is with the MIG rust pigments and the MIG "Thinner for Washes".....really works as a good combination for rust patterns and pin washes. I had for a long time done/tried this with Bragdons....but due to their adhesive, found that it just didn't flow/blend/disperse as nicely as the MIG ones do.
Marc
Sorry for the probably dumb question, Marc, but what does MIG stand for? (Jet related answers are not allowed...)
Marc, I love the way you always push the envelope on your finishes !!!
How are you getting that wonderful "sheen" on the dark rust spots ?
Can't wait till next installment........Randy
Thanks Guys.
Frederic: MIG Produtions is the ompany owned by Mig Jimenez (renowned armor modeler)...they make high end pigments, oil paints, washes, figures, models, and parts. here is a link to their website:
http://www.migproductions.com/ (http://www.migproductions.com/).....they are located in Spain, and you can order direct from them, or I am sure there are numerous vendors in France that carry his products.
Randy: The sheen on the dark rust areas is residue from the application of the artists oils. (though some areas of it could also be from some burnishing of the paint during chipping.)
Marc
Thank you, Marc.
No problem.
Glad to see you participating here.
If you have not before been there, you may wan't to have a look around the MIG Forum as well......lots of exceptional work being done there...lot's to learn from.
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/index.php?sid=4fd3da56e7c8fc5b1b64a15a81a10017 (http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/index.php?sid=4fd3da56e7c8fc5b1b64a15a81a10017)
Marc
Marc, thanks for the hint. This forum is the weathering-lovers paradise. It just makes more evident that 24 hour long days is a nonsense. 72 would be barely enough...
Outstanding rust work Marc... isn't there something a little twisted about complimenting someone on their corrosion ;)
Anyway, looks great. The rubber couplings between the arm sections are also very convincing. Looking forward to seeing this one completed.
Paul
"The Return of the Shelf Queen!"...oh the horror.
Doing a quick rush job to finish this one up.....Now I know what Bexley feels like! ;D
...and the current side.
Very nice. (Love the tattered cloth. No I have to go back and re-read this thread to see if you mentioned how you did it.) [EDIT: You didn't. Please explain!]
Funny thing is, when I saw the skull in Bits and Pieces, I vaguely remembered this diorama.
Now, you just need to pull an all nighter, nap from 7am to around 10-11am, and work again until 2am, praying that the internet or power don't go out. You get to take a short break at 1am, though, when you remember your camera battery isn't charged, with an hour left to post...
There's a reason I end every submission's description with, "And now, whiskey."
I have been waiting for the return of this shelf queen! I have seen it for so long without the skull, I am still not quite sure what to think? I knew it was coming,........... I think it should be slumped more, I can only assume that when you die you slump, my reasoning is my wife yells at me all the time to stop slumping, so with this poor fellow, I would assume the same. Don't stop I want to see this one finished!
MPH
I only play a couch Potato on TV
I love the sleeve liner on the ripped off arm. Very cool!
Now, if you could just get back to the "Watery Grave"... ;)
You know, I think the guy in that suit still had flesh on his bones when you started this project! ;)
Nice work, glad to see you back on it.
Thanks guys,
Bex;
I wish I could pull out the whiskey now! ;D I honestly dont exactly recall how I did the sleeve...it was so long ago. I did it as a test piece. I wanted to try and represent the torn sleve of his coveralls/uniform that he wore in the suit. The raeson for the bend and angle, is that it was planned to wrap over a sheleton arm reaching for help....but it was too round...would need to sak and drape more....so now it looks more like part of the arm joint material from the suit....but since time is of the essence it is what it is. ;D Tothe best of my recollection I made it out of white tissue paper...I think its called "china paper" or some such thing (something I picked up at a model airplene shop.)...It was cut into a rectangle that would be about the correct diameter tube as a sleeve. I then draped it over a corresponding dia piece of styrene rod, and pushed it together along the rod...crumpling it. Then too it off, and tore the edhges with broad round nosed tweezers. This was then brushed with Liquitex Matte Medium, draped back over the rod...slightly re-crumpled am\nd draped to shape...then let dry. when dry it was removed from the rod...carefully as it does stick to it....re-draped...reformed, and coated with the matte medium one more time....when dry, I removed it and coated the inside...at that point it was perfectly stiff...albeit fragile. [BTW. found the mfr bag from the head; it's an Andrea Miniatures 90mm)
Gil; Yes, he probably would sag...but he's got a stick up his ....err...toothpick as a neck. ;D The skull wis not planned to be exposed, but rather only seen through the (hopefully shattered) visor of the helmet.
Christian; "Watery Grave" is still right here staring at me every time I open the cabinet. ;D
Ray; That was awesome! ;D ;D ;D Almost shot coffee out my nose just now!
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on April 22, 2012, 09:47:45 PM
You know, I think the guy in that suit still had flesh on his bones when you started this project! ;)
... ROTFL (biting the carpet) ...
Quote from: BKLN on April 22, 2012, 07:07:27 AM
...Now, if you could just get back to the "Watery Grave"... ;)
... one of my favourites too, would like to see it's resurrection ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 22, 2012, 09:51:27 PM
Christian; "Watery Grave" is still right here staring at me every time I open the cabinet. ;D
... would you mind reanimating it i. e. as "Watery Grave" ... redux ... or ... reloaded ... ? 8)
The skull is awesome! Can't wait to see how you weather it!
-
Gerald;
Would love to re-animate the WG build; unfortunately I have a previous commitment to Gordon, and what appear to be a series of required "timed" projects for the forseeable future. (And we all know how good I am at modeling dead-lines ;D )
Finished most of the rusting and surface finishes (except for final dust and dirt...and maybe a couple of small streaks), and have now seated it in the base and begun filling in around the model.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FSandsOfTime%2FSOT_Test_A1_550.jpg&hash=a6841b0a3433cfe50c0a259b2eedec65ec850d01)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FSandsOfTime%2FSOT_Test_A.jpg&hash=ff3c0dbc5f5c58f13bb3c074127f35a811663520)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FSandsOfTime%2FSOT_Test_B.jpg&hash=f472207e603538aa6c321d08080e06a3a78d73d2)
The conundrum now is the ground surface. At one point I was thinking pale reddish beige..sort of Martian soil, or African soil color.....but that color does not seem to compliment the model, and doesn't give me the desolate and forbidding feel I was hoping for; so I am now thinking a very light grey lunar surface look.
The weathering on this piece is amazing! The colors and textures are spot on, even the cracked and oxidized "rubber" bits.
What about Sand?
When in Rome?
the build is called the sands of time,.................
just asking
MPH
We have pink sand in Idaho
Thanks ray...really feel iffy about the whole thing, but maybe I'm just to close to it. The rubber bits were a "keep my fingers crossed" type of thing...way overworked, and just hoping they would be pasable.
Attached is the sorta-kinda-feel, I wanted for the scene...
You don't want it half buried in lush grass beneath a majestic oak with kittens and puppies scampering over it? -- Russ
Nice Marc, especially like the effects on the left hand shoulder and back.
A conundrum, while I would love to see my little project brought to a conclusion I want to see Watery Grave finished as well .............. time to toss a coin ;)
Surface finish, how about some dry cracked mud ......... like the first picture here
http://www.freenaturepictures.com/desert-rocks-pictures.php
you may also get some ideas from the rest of the pictures.
Thanks Gordon,
Quote from: gfadvance on April 26, 2012, 01:07:48 AM
Surface finish, how about some dry cracked mud ......... like the first picture here
http://www.freenaturepictures.com/desert-rocks-pictures.php
you may also get some ideas from the rest of the pictures.
Dude!...I've got till about Sunday to finish this (and the text)! I see you are enjoying turning the tables! ;D I have actually been to those locations...got one of the biggest scares of my life at "Devils racetrack" (the mud flat with the moving rocks). Thankfully your suggestion came too late,...already half done with a simple sandy surface with some rocks. What's bugging me is the lack of interest and reference scale in the scene. I need to find some good quality N or Z scale Beduins and a camel. Would even settle for astronauts in that scale. Probably wont have them for this time frame...but can always add them after.
M
M
With time being of the essence why not go with the old standby, a barrel or a drum half buried as well.......... Seem to remember you did some rust experiments on 1/35 & 1/48 drums.
Did you ever purchase the shells/ starfishes etc etch that were produced to go with the resin submarine ....... There might be something there you could use for sense of scale
If I do a barrel or other item I feel it will change the feel of vastness/lonelyness,.....and I did try it with 1/48 and 1/87, but feel it really needs to be much smaller than that..I want to create this sense of awe and foreboding.
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 26, 2012, 01:31:06 AM
... What's bugging me is the lack of interest and reference scale in the scene. I need to find some good quality N or Z scale Beduins and a camel. Would even settle for astronauts in that scale. Probably wont have them for this time frame...but can always add them after.
... N or Z scale beduins and camels ... you must be Joe King ... ;) ... in case you're not, I'd omit the skull ... arousing the impression, an iron giant (similar to "The Iron Man" by Ted Hughes) came down to earth (or any other planet's surface) and kinda "shipwrecked" and kicked the bucket ... ::)
What about a lunar probe?
With one eye "O"
-mj
Hi Marc,
I think I should come to you once the painting workshop, just wonderful.
How about this with a Mars rover (http://www.google.com/search?q=mars+rover&hl=de&client=seamonkey&rls=org.mozilla:de:unofficial&prmd=imvnsr&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=HTiZT8LSOcXLswafqaz_AQ&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=987)?
No, no, no ... a miniature Charlton Heston pounding the sand and saying "damn you all to hell!" ;) -- Dallas
You're going to have to excuse me for jumping in here! - and I may have got the wrong end of the stick?? - it's happened before.
I think I can see where you're coming from with the - desolation, futility, fruitlessness, wastage and barrenness? What you have as a visual narrative works at an exceptional level ................. I think what you might be after reinforcing - is an actual sense of time? An inordinate infinite length of time, stretching out both before and behind the scene???
I've been mulling this over since the thread first reappeared and the simplest [and easiest] way I can think of that might indicate this passage is a wind!! - I know!
But perhaps a little gentle scouring in front of buried objects and rocks/pebbles - conversely a fine residue of sand build=up in the lee of said rocks pebbles and even portions of the suit where it makes significant contact. I can see an excuse for some quite poetic patterns in the sand providing quite a poignant commentary; a sort of silent song for a forgotten warrior?
I may of over thought this....................?
Well don't know if Marc will use the idea Andi ................... But I am certainly going to steal the concept, brilliant!!
And Dallas , I was thinking along similar lines, had a look thro' some of the quirky pencil sharpeners as you suggested looking for something appropriate
Andi, Thanks. Seems we had the same idea....though I couldnt decide where the lee side was...son the arm I did it on both sides...figuring the wind would blow against the front side, and over the top..leaving some on both (artistic license? ;D).
The sand is actually sifted through a .0025 screen...yet still ends up loooking huge, and in the pics the grains are really varying in color (despite numerous acrylic washes)...not so when viewed by the eye. (sant that small/fine was a real PIA to glue down. (I tried non-sanded tile grout, and that didn't work.).
I did an egyptian ruins themed base once, and had the same issue. I ended up sculpting the "sand" from epoxy putty, since I reasoned that at that scale (28mm figure, so ~1/56) if you could actually see a grain of sand, it was too big.
I had considered a sim idea to yours, using lightweight spackling paste to do the sand...but two issues raised their ugly head during testing; The model is unsealed, so that when I tried to sweep the "sand" against the model (the wind-blown look)...the finish would not hold up where I would have to remove any excess, or tried to shape the form of the spackle...and...when I did the un-sanded grout test, it was perfectly fine grain/texture and applied like the sand I used, but when dry it was too smooth, and lacked any character....it felt/looked to me more like concrete. Luckily the reason for doing the build is because of/for the rust technique. ;D
Well , if it was mine I would have a faded and torn copy of one of Russ's comics flapping in the wind . Or maybe a copy of Russ's favourite mag ... Penthouse !
Why not simply run ol' Russ himself up a flagpole and let the wind whip some shreds into him? -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on April 27, 2012, 12:46:19 AM
Why not simply run ol' Russ himself up a flagpole and let the wind whip some shreds into him? -- Russ
No , because he'd probably enjoy it and that would not be the object !
Nick, go stand in the corner. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on April 27, 2012, 12:19:47 PM
Nick, go stand in the corner. -- Russ
I'm already there . Haven't you seen the photo ? Looks like you are running out of sanctions in your tinpot backwater dictatorship .
Well after some unpleasant delays and setbacks, terrain will be what it is....still need to patch/repair an area (at op of top image), Once that is done I can add the rest of the bits, then do a final dust application on the Mak itself and we'll have to call it done.
Incredible effects Marc, well done.
Not trying to mess with your head or anything.........?
But in the overhead shot I really wanted/expected to see some bootprints around the "wreck". Nothing too much just enough to suggest that someone/thing had passed by and checked it out, again alluding to the extended time-line between the initial demise, the the curious observer and and the present ................. equally you could ask me to shut the up!
You will have finished another model, a notable achievement. And it won't be half bad, either. -- Russ
Thanks guys.
It's time to call this one done (base ccould use a final layer of black...but that may or may not happen later)...it's okay...i'm not thrilled with it...but it's all that I could do given the time...and yes, Russ, as you point out, I actually finished a build. From what the damn Spaniard is asking of me, it looks like a number of my "shelf queens" may actually get finished. (though not likely "Watery Grave"...unless they feel my work is lacking, then I will have plenty of time for it :-\ )
Andi; There are lots of tiny footprints...but they are 'Z-scale', so a difficult to see. ;D
Still looking for the Z-scale Charlton Heston from 'Planet of the Apes' figure....but all I was able find was one him at a podium holding a musket screaming "from my cold dead hands". ;D
M
Amazing job Marc!! I thought it looked great in the earlier pics but you took it to the next level!!
-
Amazing stuff. I'd be pretty happy with myself if I could produce something half as good.
Well done.
I really like the slight polished look of the rusty dark steel. It seems that the desert environment around the wreck gets some pretty serious sandstorms that polish off the steel.
And I like the sad but majestic feel of the composition itself. There is a clear focus on the subject here. Excellent!
Thanks for all the kind words and support.
I didn't have the final images shot previopusly...so here are 3 low res ones. (promise this is the last of them...project done so won't bore you any more with another view :) )
I shot it several ways; Indoor w/ artificial light, outdoor in lightbox, and outdoor in direct sunlight...even though contrasty I like the direct sunlight the best, because they show the sheen the best, and are the look hard/bright/hot lookthat I envisioned it would be set in.
Marc
Beautiful! I think it looks great!
Bore us with another view ? I don't think so ;D
Now that's it's all together, looks terrific ...... What were you worried about?
Can see why you you like the outdoor shot in the sunlight ....... Although its an interesting concept,sunlight, you must provide more details ............. The stronger contrasts set the scene perfectly.
Careful about this habit of "finishing" ....... Believe you can get treatment ;)
Ridiculously good.................... Yet another bar to aim for.
You're done. Nice work. So what's next? -- Russ
Thanks again guys.
Sorry I can't share the whole process at this time.
Quote from: finescalerr on May 01, 2012, 12:31:17 AM
So what's next? -- Russ
No idea....whatever the damn Spaniards tell me..... ??? ::)...but I know it's coming!
M
Great job!! My poor eyesight is needing larger pics! ;D
Great work on an unusual dio but what happened to the scull ????
Anders
Quote from: Junior on May 01, 2012, 07:21:55 AM
Great work on an unusual dio but what happened to the scull ????
It's a bit hard to see in these small shots, but it's just barely visible through the faceplate.
Ahaa......thanks Ray! Marc, a couple of close ups would be great! I can´t really sense the scale of this.....what is the size of the dio ???? Sorry if I missed some info.
Anders
Marc,
chapeaux, one of the subtlest dioarama's seen.
It fulfils all the rules for diorama's as set by Jean-Bernard André. These rules are the best in my honest opinion, I always check my concepts along these rules.
Jacq
Reminded me of these lines by Shelley:
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,
The lone and level sands stretch far away.
dpm
There once was a robot named Clyde
That worked when a man was inside
But the driver got sick
Let go of the stick
And Clyde and the driver both died.
-- William Shakespeare
Quote from: finescalerr on May 04, 2012, 12:23:47 PM
...
-- William Shakespeare
.... um, well ... presumably ... but IIRC, Shakepeare only wrote 2 limericks, included in his plays King Lear, The Tempest and Othello ... but nice adaption so far ... ::)
Hmmm, what? OK - I should have kept my big trap shut ... :D ... GD&RVVF ...
Did they have robots when Shakespeare was around ?
Quote from: shropshire lad on May 04, 2012, 03:29:40 PM
Did they have robots when Shakespeare was around ?
No, just peasants...
Paul
QuoteDid they have robots when Shakespeare was around ?
No, just peasants...
What's the difference ;)
Marc,
You really need to post a bigger picture. But besides that a beautiful job.
Jerry
Quote from: jacq01 on May 05, 2012, 12:41:39 AM
QuoteDid they have robots when Shakespeare was around ?
No, just peasants...
What's the difference ;)
Oh , you can always tell the difference . When we have shooting parties down from London , and other posh places , and are out on the estate when you hit a robot it makes a loud clang , whereas it is more of a yelp when you hit a peasant ! It is also more messy clearing up the peasants at the end of the day .
And for dinner you can have peasant under glass!
Starting to think ya shoulda gone with plaid on da robot, don't ya know ...
Hey now! We only talk like that if we're from north of Alexandria dont'cha know.
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on May 05, 2012, 06:45:34 AM
You really need to post a bigger picture.
Jerry
Jerry,
Due to the reason behind finishing this, I can't show a larger picture at this time. Maybe in a month or so.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 10, 2012, 01:42:25 AM
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on May 05, 2012, 06:45:34 AM
You really need to post a bigger picture.
Jerry
Jerry,
Due to the reason behind finishing this, I can't show a larger picture at this time. Maybe in a month or so.
Marc
Mmmm. I wonder what the man is up to? Sounds very sneaky and secret agenty.(is that's a word)
Quote from: Wesleybeks on May 10, 2012, 03:35:23 AM
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 10, 2012, 01:42:25 AM
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on May 05, 2012, 06:45:34 AM
You really need to post a bigger picture.
Jerry
Jerry,
Due to the reason behind finishing this, I can't show a larger picture at this time. Maybe in a month or so.
Marc
Mmmm. I wonder what the man is up to? Sounds very sneaky and secret agenty.(is that's a word)
Yes , " secret" is a word !