Can someone recommend some methods of reproducing the look of heavily weathered paint on wood? The "blotches of rubber cement" technique seems too coarse for this.
Throw a stone, and you'll hit someone with an idea about this.
The three best that I have seen are by :
Chuck Doan
Per Olav Lund
Marcel Ackel
They are all three different and produce different levels and representations of the effects...from almost life-like to more interperative and stylized.
Chucks description/approach can be found on his Fotki site http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan (http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan) ...as well as in various threads here in the forum.
For Per Olav's I would need to comb through the threads on MIG.
I posted these links for Dirk re. Marcel Ackel's methods yesterday:
Here is a thread to one approach to this by Marcel on modellboard.de:
http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=20135.0
This thread there is a complete structure and involves various approaches to wood...but in particular the door on this page:
http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=22777.45
Here some more unpainted wood:
http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=26352.0
Marc
Thanks. Chuck's work is amazing. I had a little trouble finding the info because his site is excrutiatingly slow on my dialup connection. But from what I could find, the basic gist of it is: 1. Stain the wood, 2. Apply paint thinner, 3. While the thinner's still wet apply water-based acrylic paint. 4. Use tape to pull off some of the acrylic paint.
Have I missed anything?
Hey Marc, thanks for the recommendation, your check is in the mail! ;D
Ray, the current steps are:
Silverwood
Bragdon powder (weatherd brown, color not critical though) brushed on, blow off excess
Thinner
Paint 3-5 coats of Polly Scale full strength, wait 15-30 sec or so between applications
Light score with knife in direction of grain*
Tape peel*
Dullcoat after thorough drying
Sandblast with 20 PSI baking soda (optional for dulling and some more paint removal)
*these steps are done maybe 30 sec to 1 min after last coat of paint. Kind of subjective, but don't wait too long.
Per Olav and Marcel's stuff is great, and Gordon Birrell has been doing some interesting faded paint stuff recently . He has some posts over here.
cHuck
...oh C**p!...you are correct Chuck...I completely forgot about Gordon's :-\ :-[....so there are four "best options".
My humble apologies to Gordon.
Marc
I've been playing with an idea just to add something to the mix. I get a candle burning and stick a toothpick in the hot wax. I then dab it around the areas I want to peel. I can get spots tinier than .060" or as big as I like. Paint it and then scrape the wax off with my knife. So far the edges tend to be a bit harsh so go back and feather them with the air eraser.
John
Ray, there are some great Tip Sheets on modeling and weathering from Mic Greenberg at Crankcase Production. http://www.micgreenberg.com/cp/ccpcontact.html
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
My structure is going to be outdoors, so I'm using styrene to simulate wood. I did a test on a small piece about 2" x 4". I think it turned out pretty well:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FIRRWebfiles%2FSimulatedWood%2FwIMG_1211.jpg&hash=072e3a339062a6807878c5aed12d7f29eed4177a)
It's meant to replicate the appearance of an old cabin I saw in the desert, which had originally been painted green. Most of the paint had flaked off and the wood beneath was sun-baked and heavily weathered.
Quite nice, Ray! Is Styrene going to survive in sunlight?
Should be ok as long as it's painted. I also coated it with Krylon UV matte finish.
I have bridges on my layout that have been there for three years, with styrene parts. So far they're holding up just fine.
Ray, that will be incredible for an outdoor model. I've never seen better. -- Russ
There are some people on this forum who do real miracles with styrene. I would never have believed that the picture above depicted a styrene model, Ray.
Great job Ray!
Now on to the rest of the building!
What medium did you use for the "wood" colors?
-Marty
Ray
Outstanding job. Coloring is just perfect will be looking forward to seeing the whole building.
Jerry
Thanks guys!
I used Apple Barrel flat acrylic paints. After scribing the grain and other details into the styrene, I applied the paints in multiple layers of thin washes. First I did a couple layers of "Nutmeg Brown", which is a warm, medium shade of brown. Then I added some washes of "Apricot", a sort of orange color, then a little more "Nutmeg Brown". Then I added some "Espresso", a darker, redder brown. This was applied in streaks, adding more to some areas and none to other areas. Finally, some very thin black was added, again applying more in some areas as needed.
Here's a pic showing how it looked:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FIRRWebfiles%2FSimulatedWood%2FwIMG_1179.jpg&hash=29e6164b59577e49c6b4b7ecca7697282a003661)
To make the peeled-paint effect, I first dabbed on some small blotches of Micro-Mask. When that dried, I coated the whole thing with Tester's Enamel Thinner. While the thinner was wet, I lightly brushed on random splotches of Apple Barrel "Hunter Green".
After the paint and thinner had both dried, I washed the piece under cold water. This removed the Micro-Mask.
There were several spots where the paint had come off the styrene, most likely due to greasy fingerprints and such. I touched them up, but in the future I will clean the surface more carefully. I may also try using some Krylon white primer as a base.
Hi Ray, You have done Wonderful!!!! stuff here, the knots look terrific, eagerly waiting for more pic's, Randy