Funny what inspires me.
I have always like the Corliss engines.
Timber Times recently ran an article about them and I purchased a book too.
I also did some research on original patents through google.
Unfortunately I was not able to find plans/blueprints so I drew my own scaling the plans from photos and the few know dimensions.
I also have always wanted to build a brass model so the two seemed a natural combination.
I am by no means a machinist, but I am having fun, learning things and improving my skills.
-Marty
Marty, the work you have done so far is nothing less than stellar. - Russ
Being able to fabricate what you want, is priceless. It is time consuming, but you are not dependant on what others make (or discontinue making). Hopefully, someday, I will have a super fine resolution desktop prtotype machine, and I too will make whatever I want.
Marty,
beyond me ( in brass)
do you have following info already :
http://www.wkinsler.com/technology/corliss/figures/index.html (http://www.wkinsler.com/technology/corliss/figures/index.html)
Jacq
Thanks guys!
Yes Jacq, but thanks for the heads up!
I have a TON of info, think I could even run one! ???
Just came in from soldering up the "housing"
-Marty
Marty,
if it's 1:48 I can use one in the enginehouse ;D ;D
Nice job to tune it with all the adjustable valves ;) ;) before you cn run one.
the PinoGrande had Corliss engines so I became interested.
As I am building a derivative of the Hume mill i have to find out what engines were used there.
You are going to finish up as Paul with all the bolts for his shay, or John with his 1:22.5 stuff...............
Jacq
What a neat work, Marty. Again, you're going to build one of your great chef d'oeuvre. I hope you'll post plenty of pictures for us to enjoy and learn!
What scale is it?
You're way too modest about your machining skills. It looks pretty damn good to me.
Lookin' good! Should be lots of neat little brass things to make. I look forward to seeing them.
John
sorry I forgot to mention; 1:32 scale.
The flywheel had to be outsourced and I found one 6" in dia which worked out perfectly for 16 foot in diameter in 1:32nd.
Yes lots of bolts, lots!....
-Thanks gang.
-Marty
-MJ
Expecting nothing less from you. Once again you have gotten everyone's interest. And once again your research and persistence in doing something different has just moved you one step farther up the ladder.
Just another outstanding job. Just glad to have you around for all the unanswered questions I have.
Jerry
Marty, Echo the others, very impressed with you r brass work!!
Randy
I feel so betrayed...you've abandoned the light of styrene for the dark side of brass. ;) ;D
Beautifully done...I too echo the others sentiments, and look forward to your progress. What will you be doing with this when complete?...a dio?
Marc
thanks Marc,
no worries i had thought of styrene but I want the movement (styrene would have been cheaper and way cheaper!!!).
not sure what it will be when done, may be some 1:32 rolling stock and a loco will appear?
Boy this crankshaft housing was a pain!
I wish I could afford a resistance soldering unit.
anyway, its done. not perfect but the shape and look I wanted.
It's kinda cool to watch the connecting rod go in and out ans the throw goes round.
the crankshaft is just a temporary piece of aluminum.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fcrankhousing.jpg&hash=fef19308dbcde95fbd353c60f311cc06c86d9bd5)
-Marty
Blind Willy Myopowitz sends his compliments. -- Russ
-MJ
Beautful workmanship. Looking forward to the next piece thanks for letting us all seeing the progress as you move along.
Jerry
There's nothing better than watching a beautiful piece of scratchbuilding come together.
Fantastic work, Marty.
The eccentric is done, was a steep learning curve! (but then I have no formal training)
As they say; Third times a charm.
Worked on the large pillow block today.
-Marty
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Feccentric.jpg&hash=4321f9a8ea58b435df0c9e16d6dca9ede8c8f67f)
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Marty,
wow......you're a fast learner .
Jacq
Fantastic work, Marty. What kind of tools do you use for this kind of work. I guess this metal modelling requires some heavy tools.
Wow! Beautifully done. Really clean and crisp. This will paint-up beautifully (though almost a shame to paint it),
Marc
Utter jewelry. I am reeling in stunned disbelief. -- Russ
-MJ
What an outstanding job. Workmanship at its finest. Like Marc said it will be a shame to paint it.
Jerry
Thanks everyone!
It has been a fun project so far.
Like the Plymouth each piece is a model in and of itself.
Every part requires a new trick, tool, fixture, jig or technique.
Fredrick; I am using my Sherline lathe with the milling column attached when needed. (sherline dot com)
I do have access to a larger Clausen and a bridgeport if needed but these parts work well on the Sherline.
Marc No worries i will paint it! Pictures before hand though!
-Marty
Fantastic work Marty. You look like you're having way too much fun with That new toy.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
This is getting better and better. Beautiful work, Marty.
Thanks for keeping us updated.
This is most impressive, Marty......Since you don't have a resistance set-up, could you explain your technique ? ( I'm trying to learn this sodderring stuff!)
Thanks for posting this work......Randy
Randy
I have been using a torch to solder most of this stuff.
Some parts are thin enough I "tin" them with a soldering iron.
Then I have to devise a way to clamp all the old parts in place and the one to be added.
Heat it up, add solder then wait till it cools (hard to do) but you learn when you move it early and it falls apart! :-X >:( ???
very clean joints and a tiny bit of flux help too (with any soldering)
-Marty
Thought you guys might enjoy seeing what is involved in "making a part"
Again, remember I am no expert nor do I have any formal training what-so-ever.
So, I needed a large pillow block for the Corliss.
The top is .250" thick, 1.000" long and .0505 wide (I will file the .005" off to match the bottom after machining)
The bottom is .500" square and 2.00" long
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fmillsetup.jpg&hash=7af34febe4e5a11befb09396dc006d64f4439946)
1) Clamp top & bottom together with the correct offset and drill the holes for the 2-56 hardware; (4).070" @.300" on center, .100" from each edge.
2) Remove top, drill .089" for screws and countersink so screw heads are flat.
3) Tap bottom holes 2-56
4) Reassemble top & bottom, step drill on center for crankshaft .316" (5/16 + .004 for clearance)
5) Mark bottom for radius and flat, remove bulk of material with band saw
6) Mill radius and flat mounting surface on bottom part
7) Drill holes for the 2-56 mounting hardware in the bottom piece; (4).089"@ .300" on center, .100" from each edge.
8) Remove top and mill ends .200" wide .0125" deep
9) Make jig to radius top of pillow block
a. Cut ½" plexiglass 1" x 3" for sacrificial base, center drill for center mounting.
b. Tap top - 5/16 – 18 .250" deep
c. Tap bottom – 3/8 – 16 .250" deep
d. Drill additional mounting hole for bolt & T-nut
e. Mount in rotary table using 3/8 set screw in center, square, drill two holes for drill rod to prevent pillow block from turning.
10) Mount pillow block in fixture radius top of pillow block
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I want to make the oil cup and then I'll show pictures of the finished part.
-Marty
Marty,
beautiful.....
Jacq
The finished part. ;D ;D
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The oil cup is .187" in dia. and is functional with a scale one inch (.032") hole for the distribution of lubricant.
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-Marty
Geez, Marty....that's just too kool for skool.
What a magnificent project.
-MJ
That is just so awesome!!! Not just the part but how you made it, see all that teaching is paying off were all learning.
Jerry
Marty,
fantastic work.
To top the cake with the cream.... are you going to make a screwcap for it ?? Absolutelly fabulous work.
( a pity a smiley for admiration is missing, otherwise I'd used it)
you application for joining the screw hall of fame is taken in consideration.........
Jacq
Well now you definitely have a screw loose! (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clicksmilies.com%2Fs1106%2Faktion%2Faction-smiley-035.gif&hash=46fd6c9519e777512a9992749671c0ccf0162adb) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clicksmilies.com%2Fs1106%2Faktion%2Faction-smiley-034.gif&hash=f5a3511a615d599645929954233ca5e7cbc9bd34) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clicksmilies.com%2Fs1106%2Fgrinser%2Fgrinning-smiley-043.gif&hash=0caac54947db661e6093a62a197eda649620b0f0)
M
Young Martin, you are a big show-off. Now go stand in the corner! -- Russ
Thanks!
Pretty funny, Marc saying I'm nutz!
When can I come out of the corner?????????
What... no hand-blown glass lubricator bowl! ;) Official welcome to the "we are nuts" club Marty.
All kidding aside, beautiful, clean & crisp machine work. Really enjoying watching this project come together.
Paul
Man what a week of trials!
I have had a heck of a time getting anything done.
Anyway here is the latest. The feet that hold up the steam chest.
Still have some more holes to drill.
Been working on the dashpots that go in the holes there but the 5 I have made are all in the trash.......
-Marty
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Ffeet.jpg&hash=a9712163810d6d19e397bb77a63a0fc9e3a80193)
-MJ
Oh this just keeps getting better and better!! Just some beautiful workmanship.
Jerry
Hey Marty,
That is some seriously fine craftsmanship... Absolutely a treat to see you doing this.. ;D
Mike
It's a jewel, Marty.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fvalvechest.jpg&hash=94deab80c361d7ab334462db4f0ad2e420b836e1)
Finally got the valves done.
The valves started as .187" x 1.515"
I turned them down to .150" -.440" from the actuator end (where they exit the seals/flanges).
The back side is turned down to .150" - .080 from the end.n
Then the end is further turned down to .125" .200 from the end.
Finally they were drilled and tapped for the 00-90 studs.
The flanges are #6 brass washers drilled .046" at 90 degrees.
Once the flanges were drilled they were centered using a turned jig and .032" holes were drilled and tapped for 1mm bolts. The back side is the same w/o the valves protruding.
All in all 32 holes drilled and tapped.
The wrist plate (large disc in the center) was fabricated a while ago and mounted to a stand.
The foundations are floral foam, I like the texture but they are not structuarly sound.
Eventually they will be replaced with wood.
Very nice work Marty.will you be painting this model and will it be setting in a model scene of some type.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
-MJ
What can one say. I've run out of words. Simply beautiful.
Jerry
Marty ,
This is becoming a seriously good piece of engineering ( it has gone beyond mere modelling) and if it continues like this you stand a chance of scraping a third place at this years Craftsman Structure Show !
Nick
Adequate, young Martin. Most adequate. -- Russ
Beautiful work, it seems almost a shame to paint such lovely machining.
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 29, 2009, 11:59:00 PM
Marty ,
This is becoming a seriously good piece of engineering ( it has gone beyond mere modelling) and if it continues like this you stand a chance of scraping a third place at this years Craftsman Structure Show !
Nick
I don't know Nick do you think it would place that high? Competition will be fierce at this years show.
Jerry
Thanks everyone.
Gordon Yes I have a small scene in mind with the surrounding floor and beams, kind of a cut away.
I do plan on painting and weathering (or showing signs of use).
Nick No chance of placing the the CSS, I'm not going. And it's still just a model!
-Marty
Now this is my kind of model building. Love it!
John
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 29, 2009, 11:59:00 PM
Marty ,
This is becoming a seriously good piece of engineering ( it has gone beyond mere modelling) and if it continues like this you stand a chance of scraping a third place at this years Craftsman Structure Show !
Nick
Not a chance...there are no antlers, no draped chains, and gobs no gobs of bright orange rust, on this. Those guys wouldn't know a well crafted model if it fell on them.
Marc
QuoteNot a chance...there are no antlers, no draped chains, and gobs no gobs of bright orange rust, on this. Those guys wouldn't know a well crafted model if it fell on them.
[expletive deleted]
I was going to say that.
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 30, 2009, 01:38:05 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 29, 2009, 11:59:00 PM
Marty ,
This is becoming a seriously good piece of engineering ( it has gone beyond mere modelling) and if it continues like this you stand a chance of scraping a third place at this years Craftsman Structure Show !
Nick
Not a chance...there are no antlers, no draped chains, and gobs no gobs of bright orange rust, on this. Those guys wouldn't know a well crafted model if it fell on them.
Marc
Give him a chance , he hasn't got to the painting and weathering stage yet .
Nick
wow...
talk about a piece that would make even a good scenery look bad...
Great work marty... I am still watching this one
it is going to be hard to get this one married to a scene.... ??? but hey what do I know....
I am just a mere student of the craft. ;)
Mike
Personnally, I haven't the least doubt about Marty's ability to build a scene around his Corliss engine that would fit the exceptionnal level of modelling of this machine. He has already shown us his talent in many occasions. What I'm not sure of is, will he want to spend the time required for it?
Marty, congratulations!
I am at a loss for superlatives to describe your results. You have done a fantastic work...
Sets the bar another notch higher!
Franck
Franck ,
It looks like you've got some serious competition now. Are you up for raising the bar even higher ?
Have you been doing any modelling recently ? I am always looking out for new photos from you to see what new masterpiece you have created .
Are you still planning on modelling the French mining scene ( the one with the snowshed) that you posted photos of a number of months ago ?
Nick
Marty, this is some really great work, can I ask if you have a prototype you are working toward? I did a google for a Corliss engine and they seem to come in all different sizes and applications. Can't wait to see this project sitting in one of your dioramas. Pat
Nick, thanks for the kind words, but no modeling at the moment! Yes I'm planning the French mining scene, and I'm working on a new gas loco inspired by a RLD 3.3 ton Plymouth gas loco... ...I'm waiting my wheel sets from NWSL, but I haven't see the wheels come up to my desk! I ordered Sn3 wheel sets to model 500mm gauge in 1:35 scale ;)
Marty, Check out the mining section.
http://www.sharlot.org/archives/photographs/
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Pat,
I looked high and low, even bought a book but could find no real "plans" or specs.
I did find a few "standards" so I based my model on those.
Also using available material sizes dictated some of the dimensions.
Most of my plans/drawings are done from photographs using known dimansions and working from there.
More soon, hopefully
-Marty
Quote from: Scratchman on July 17, 2009, 10:01:46 PM
Marty, Check out the mining section.
http://www.sharlot.org/archives/photographs/
Wow, that's a great resource! i just spent some time browsing through the photos of business buildings, great reference not just for the buildings but also for period signage and for the many different types of businesses.
Are those corliss engines on page 9 and 23 in the mining section or are they something else.
http://www.sharlot.org/archives/photographs/
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Theones on pg 9 & 23 look similar but I dont think they are from the actual corliss family.
Then again I dont know much.
The one on pg. 23 looks English or like ones I have seen being across the pond.
-Marty
Marty, progress is great even with out plans, that link sure has a wealth of old time photos. Thanks Pat
Marty,
here some inspiration ?? http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Kieffer3.htm (http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Kieffer3.htm)
Jacq
Gorgeous work Marty...
Paul
Well after over two months off I finally got back to this.......
Made the molds for the foundations and cast them out of POP.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fcorlissfoundations.jpg&hash=ec31cd69424e8951c1cb76f1259614e951cf4cfc)
They are big honkin chunks of plaster!!!!
But I busted one of the valve shafts.....
Oh well.
-Marty.
Beautiful brasswork.
Not sure about the POOP block on the left....the unprototypical rounded-off front edge/corners, sanding marks on the side, near the top, and what look like some kind of tool marks on the lower portion face, are not up to the same standards/quality as the machine.
M
I agree with Marc..
To maintain the engine's quality, you should make castings like the real ones in correct casings made from timber.
You can even use grouting cement together with very fine sand.
Jacq
Marty...
Whenever in a bind or quandry always remember "WWCD" (What Would Chuck Do) ;D ;D ;D
[...then run screaming into the night because of the pure madness it evokes ;D ;D ;D ]
Marc
Gee I was happy to just make some progress.....
I had thought about using stripwood for the molds but figured once I put the joists in no one would see the foundations.
May be I'll just shelve the whole thing and go back to sitting on my ass.
-Mj
Marty,
Moping and self-pity do not become you....you are far better than that...and you know it! :)
Marc
Marty:
I agree with Marc and Jacq... the machining work on the engine is so superb, that the "concrete" bases don't seem to fit. I'm assuming they were generally mounted on concrete pedestals but maybe there were other options. And none of this business about sitting on your ass. There are far too many people in this world already who accomplish nothing more than that... with your talent and skills you'll come up with a solution.
Paul
You guys are right.
It's been a crappy couple of months, sorry.
I have started on the new molds from stripwood.
Thanks for telling me what I needed to hear.
-Marty
That's what happens when you get good.
Quote from: lab-dad on September 20, 2009, 03:14:45 PM
You guys are right.
It's been a crappy couple of months, sorry.
I have started on the new molds from stripwood.
Thanks for telling me what I needed to hear.
-Marty
Thank God your back, I was starting to worry about you. The only thing you need to hear is get going and finish this beauty.
Jerry
Marty ,
Is there a reason why you made the concrete stepped ? Although it is perfectly possible to cast concrete in the real World like that , it does make quite alot of extra work for no apparent advantage . Please tell as we need to know .
Good to see you back producing , even if you do scrap it .
So you've given up on doing it in brick ?
Nick
Thanks Nick,
It is stepped so I have a place to rest the floor beams (in addition to some posts).
Yes first attempt is sCRAPed.
Second attempt is drying/curing - (boy did it get hot!)
I thought of carving "bricks" but most of the examples I could find used a poured concrete.
The new molds are done with scale 2x8's as forms.
Hopefully I can take a pic this evening.
-Marty
better?.................
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2FfoundationV20.jpg&hash=81c694045856f588eb40b83829b3f20c63918120)
there are some air holes(not too bad for the size)-its 3 3/4 square and 2 1/4" thick, may be I can disguise them?.....
Any suggestions for the basic coloring (I usually use Silverwood) and then some grease/oil stains.
I'm also thinking some rust where it would likely occur being many parts are cast iron.
-Marty
Much better!
Yes................
Jacq
Quote from: lab-dad on September 22, 2009, 02:07:38 PM
there are some air holes(not too bad for the size)-its 3 3/4 square and 2 1/4" thick, may be I can disguise them?.....
I would not worry about the air holes at all. Very often you see cavities larger than those in prototype concrete work.
Here in Norway the builders (and pissed off) architects call them "Steinreir" wich means "Rock nest" or "pebble nest".
They occur when you do not vibrate the poured concrete properly, the aggregate (usualy gravel) clumps together and makes pockets of air/gravel. I guess Marc know the proper terms in english!
Marty I agree with Havard...no problem with the holes....you could even accentuate/detail them a bit....I do this on my castings by stippling with the Micro-Mark wire pencil.....try it on a test piece first though.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_PanzerTurm%2FPZT_3_StainedConc1.jpg&hash=c6c9f152bbb015a56b6c342a48b579eff95a146b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_PanzerTurm%2FPZT_3_StainedConc2.jpg&hash=5b4986c37e157579b35b1ee3488f71743d30b23f)
Here we (at least I) just call it a "shitty pour" and unacceptable ;)....I actually rarely run across these in this day and age......maybe because the contractors I work with know what an ass I can be in the field when stuff like that happens...and it usually ends up costing them......so they try real hard not to have them. ;D ;D
M
Marc ,
Yes , I can imagine you could be a pain in the ass to work for !
Nick The Builder
Marty ,
Significantly better results . I bet you feel happier now ,
Nick
I thought some might find my mold design of interest.
Basically 1/4" poplar with 1/4"x 1/8" planks glued to it.
Does require a little calculating before any cutting though.
By having backing sections (in this case cheap hardboard) the mold stays square.
I tape it all up and use clamps to keep it that way.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Flongmold.jpg&hash=da211f76afc1c87e02c4dc1b8e2c59f355befb45)
And the foundation;
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I just realized I need to make the tall one for the large pillow-block too. >:(
-Marty
Nice mold and casting. It's coming along splendidly.
M
This looks a lot better.
Take in account that cast iron is corroding far less than steel. A bit surface rust........Don't overdo it as these machines were normally placed in well build enginehouses, not much change of condense etc.
Jacq
Hey Marty,
It Look's very nice... ;D
much better
some technqiue's also used for air-buble issues in the plaster are Gently Dropping the mold flat right after pouring as well as using a rubber mallet to tap on the table while pouring the mix, those are a couple of ways.
another trick I use:
A light spray of 1 part machine cutting oil to 4 parts water mix.. helps break the surface tension of water and air bubbles will move easier. though it does not effect the look or quality of the plaster. (the oil and water turn white when mixed) (pour plaster until mold is full the spray mix will flow over first and out leaving a nice plaster filled mold with very few if any air bubbles at all)
I use the rubber mallet during pouring after preping mold with spray works pretty darn good.. you've seen our castings :P
Mike
Thanks Mike, great tip.
Question though.....does the machine oil in any way affect the dried finished casting in regards to ability to absorb water based paints/stains/washes?
M
Hey Marc,
does not effect the painting aspect at all...castings come out nice and dry... ready to absorb those subtle washes and weathering.
(with the understanding that I use a light cutting oil and Hydro-Cal types of plaster)
too much oil in the mix will result in some discoloring... but is still very paintable
Mike
Mike, is there a weight to the cutting oil like with engine oil? Which brand do you prefer? Thanks Pat
FWIW I use alcohol and water on my silicone molds and it works very well.
For these large/thick ones I think the only way to get all the air out would be with vacuum.
I actually had a back massager clamped to the table I was working on!
-Marty
The last mold is half done!!!!!!
Hey Belg,
try to find the lightest stuff you can.. I have no label on the jug I got from a machinest friend. (but I will ask him)
I am not sure if there is a wieght ratio on the milling cutting oil...
smooth-on sells a IN & OUT II water soluble release agant...But I think it consists of the oil I am using...It sure smells the same...looks the same... and mixes the same way... so I opt to use my formula... the results are identical in every way
Marty,
I was using the alcohol and water method before, finding more success with the oil and water mix
( I have poured some really thick stuff too)(i.e. Our culvert inner arch modules are a pretty thick piece)
the castings we do for retail are poured with a vacumed mix.
those massage devices are good for helping the air to rise up after the initial mallet shock to acctually get the air bubbles to start moving.
just offering some idea's ;)
Mike
Well the last foundation is done.
I may try again though.......
I have started on the governor too. It is nice to be back at the lathe/mill.
Not much of it shows in the picture, the arms and such still need attaching and I need to find some small brass blass for the ends (mine are way too big) ;D ;D ;D ;D
Lots of jigs were involved in making the arms, and soldering them up.
Anyway I like to post on Sunday, kinda sets a goal for the week.
I will scan the reference etching for the governor and post it with the finished one.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2FFoundationsandflywheel.jpg&hash=e4c56bb161eb4eca79bfcffe05521a8397bd4eb1)
-Marty
Beautiful! Those foundations are much better.
-MJ
Excellent. Really like the casings now. And the machine just as one would expect perfection.
Jerry
Hey Marty,
Those blocks look much better now...and I see you have been working hard...
still one of the greatest builds on this forum IMO
thanks
Mike
this is much better..........Very well done.
Jacq
Ohhhhh! I like that.
John
Excellent progress. And that black clamp really looks real!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on October 05, 2009, 10:29:10 AM
Excellent progress. And that black clamp really looks real!
I've got some of those black clamps . Will that make me as good a modeller as Arty Farty Marty ?
Nick
All the prototype pictures of Corliss steam engines I have seen have the big clamp on them.
Right next to the oversize penny.
Nick, I'll never even be half as good as you, even with twice the clamps!
-Mj
nitpickers, both of you are just as good, as long as you use the same clamps.
Both of you belong to this top notch mob of mad finescalers here.
Jacq
[quote
Nick, I'll never even be half as good as you, even with twice the clamps!
-Mj
[/quote]
What a load of bollocks . I wouldn't have a clue where to start a project like this . As for your Plymouth . I need say no more . All I can run to is sticking a few leaves on an old bit of sage brush and gluing a load of grass tufts to a bit of styrene . No contest really . I might have got the concrete right first time , but you got there in the end and learnt something in the process .
Nick
Hey Guy's,
I do believe Marty you could have not said it any better than when you opened this thread...
"Marty with very first post"
Funny what inspires me.
I have always like the Corliss engines.
Timber Times recently ran an article about them and I purchased a book too.
I also did some research on original patents through google.
Unfortunately I was not able to find plans/blueprints so I drew my own scaling the plans from photos and the few know dimensions.
I also have always wanted to build a brass model so the two seemed a natural combination.
I am by no means a machinist, but I am having fun, learning things and improving my skills.
and that kind of mind set is what keeps me here....it is a commonality that dominates this forum..
Just an observation... IMO
Birds of a feather will flock together...
Much respect to you gentlemen...
Mike
Mike;
Geese that guy who wrote all that dribble needs to use spell check!
Nick,
Thanks, your cheque is in the mail..
-Mj
Quote from: shropshire lad on October 05, 2009, 03:46:44 PM
[quote
Nick, I'll never even be half as good as you, even with twice the clamps!
-Mj
What a load of bollocks . I wouldn't have a clue where to start a project like this . As for your Plymouth . I need say no more . All I can run to is sticking a few leaves on an old bit of sage brush and gluing a load of grass tufts to a bit of styrene . No contest really . I might have got the concrete right first time , but you got there in the end and learnt something in the process .
Nick
[/quote]
Wow I better watch were I walk ;D
Jerry
Jerry, you better make sure your wearing your hip-waders. Man this has really turned into a love fest.
Mike, thanks for the info and I'm looking forward to the rest when you get time.
Marty, some real nice progress. Pat
Hey Pat,
:D ;D If you do the same project and it looks like that... I'll Love you too... :D ;D :D
BTW: email me with where you are at with the player issue..
Mike
Much better Marty... makes all the difference.
Paul
Thanks gang.
Here is this weeks project; The governor.
This is a scan of the drawing in the book I have been using.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fgovernorscan.jpg&hash=ed95f7bfa51de152bfc14a03ee10401ade0c7d06)
And here is mine so far;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fgovernor.jpg&hash=b143144e0db71a6c93319f380a2bfe1d546cd717)
The small "arms" are .047", the pulley is .415", and the large vertical tube is .155"
Over all height is 4 1/4" and there are about 33 pieces/parts.
Still need to do the finial and score some 6mm brass balls for the counterweights.
The pulley and governor are geared and the arms spin like the real one.
There are some screws missing from the stops too, will wait until its all finished to install those.
-Marty
More excellent metal work Marty... looking great. Really looking forward to seeing the completed engine...
Paul
Looking good!
What is an "oil gag"??
Hey Marty,
Nice... Very Nice... ;D
Mike
Marty, models of locomotives and mechanical devices seem to be what really set you apart from most other top craftsmen. I suspect your finished Corliss will be a real gem and this latest addition to it should be very eye catching. Nice work!! -- Russ
Quote from: lab-dad on October 11, 2009, 02:27:41 PM
The small "arms" are .047", the pulley is .415", and the large vertical tube is .155"
Over all height is 4 1/4" and there are about 33 pieces/parts.
Still need to do the finial and score some 6mm brass balls for the counterweights.
The pulley and governor are geared and the arms spin like the real one.
There are some screws missing from the stops too, will wait until its all finished to install those.
Metal rules!
Nice, clean looking build.
Did you use any commercial parts for this assembly? Always looking for sources of odd bits and pieces in brass.
Regards, Håvard H
-MJ
Really and excellent job of making the parts and putting this together so far. Have to agree with Russ Loco's & Mechanical pieces seem to set you apart from the pack.
Jerry
Thanks guys!
Unc, wait till I start on the Plymouth!
Havard,
The only commercial parts shown are the 1.0mm flat washers at the pivot points.
-Marty
Damn, that is nice! Can't say you aren't a machinist anymore!
WOW!...that's really sweet! Beautiful work.
Marc
I cant beleive it has been over a month since I made some progress!
Anyway, not much to show but here is the latest;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2FSteamvalve.jpg&hash=99d671739fe699bf3c506bf1f7846111c5b38f82)
The valve started out as a union for 1/4" tubing.
The hand wheel is an O scale brakewheel casting (Simpson I think)
And the bolts are 1mm, with nuts of course ;)
Not sure when I will post again with the holidays starting and me trying to start a business....
Thanks for the encouragement guys!
-Marty
http://mgjphotography.zenfolio.com/ (http://mgjphotography.zenfolio.com/)
Quote from: lab-dad on November 15, 2009, 12:11:19 PM
Not sure when I will post again with the holidays starting and me trying to start a business....
Thanks for the encouragement guys!
Wow, sehr schön!
Hope to see more progress sooner or later.
Good luck with your business, by the way!
Another fine piece for your model, Marty.
Good luck on your business project!
Very Nice.
M
Nothing less than jewelry. Way to go, young Martin!
I hope your business idea works out. If you want to brainstorm, you know my number.
Russ
Quote from: lab-dad on November 15, 2009, 12:11:19 PM
I cant beleive it has been over a month since I made some progress!
Anyway, not much to show but here is the latest;
-Marty
http://mgjphotography.zenfolio.com/ (http://mgjphotography.zenfolio.com/)
Well its not much but as always. It is just outstanding. Beautiful work MJ.
Jerry
Marty, great work on the valve. Much success in your new venture, perhaps you should put a little info in a new thread in the general forum. You never know who might have use of your specific talents. Pat
Another excellent piece of machining work Marty to add to an already sterling model. Very well done...
In concert with everyone else here, best wishes on your business venture.
Paul
Every new business venture needs an occasional relaxation of the mind such as making cool valves. Keep up the good work.
John
Marty,
here a very good book with detailed information and dimensions of Corliss steam engine foundations.
http://www.archive.org/details/machineryfoundat00crof (http://www.archive.org/details/machineryfoundat00crof)
the section dealing with steam engines & turbines ( 369 -469 ).
Jacq
Thanks a million Jacq!
Looks like my educated guesses were fairly close! whew!
I hope to get back on this in a day or two now that the holiday gifts are completed!
Also with two weeks off I should (damn well better) have some free time!
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on December 17, 2009, 09:37:34 AM
Also with two weeks off I should (damn well better) have some free time!
-Marty
Free time ? What , in between sessions of shovelling snow from the driveway ?!?
Nick in balmy Britain . (Or should that read "barmy"?)
Since I have some of your attentions....
This is the color I will be striving for on the brass;
Do any of you have experience using gun blue?
I am wondering if that would give me the color I am looking for as opposed to the usual "blacken - it"
-Marty
Marty:
Have you tried Neolube yet? It's a very fine graphite in an alcohol solution. Brush it on then buff it with a soft sable brush... it's excellent for representing oily steel. The more you buff it, the shinier it gets. Being graphite, it also has the advantage of lubricating surfaces.The more coats you brush on the darker it will become. Blueing will give it more of a blue/black finish.
It's not a particularly good photo (scan of an old color print), but the 1:48 engine, valve-gear and drive-train components on the shay in the picture are all painted with Neolube. They are actually shinier than they appear in the photo. I wish digital cameras had been around when I painted and weathered this model... :(
Paul
Outstanding, Paul. Thanks for the great tip. -- Russ
That gives me something else to try.
Guess I will use both and see what I come up with.
A subtle variation by using each may be the answer.
Thanks,
Marty
Here is another option:
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/electroless.htm
It's a bit pricey but I bet you could find a cheaper kit with a little searching.
Good luck!
Paul
Paul
Have you ever tried using any of the Caswell products for model work? I use their powders and so forth in my powder coater for motorcycle work (their products are excellent by the way for 1:1 work) but the resulting finish is too thick for model work. It also has a tendency to fillet so is difficult to retain sharp edges and details.
Paul (the other one)
No I have never used the powders. I have used a lot of the chemical colors for brass/bronze and steel and they work very well and add nothing but color. A good electroless nickel should only add maybe .0005. I know others who have used it for things like running gear on live steam engines and it looks great.
Its too bad that the plating kits are so expensive, it really puts it out of range for small work like the Corliss. Maybe a local gunsmith could do the work? I personally think the beautiful work Marty has done would be a shame to be covered in paint. What I really like about machinery like the Corliss is the contrast of painted surfaces combined with polished metal. Here are some good examples:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php/more-massive-machinery-shifting-183752.html?t=183752
Regards,
Paul
Thanks for posting the link to those beam engine photos... fabulous piece of work especially when you consider it was built to pump sewage. The contrast between the polished brass and steel pieces and the painted components is wonderful. It's obvious that the aesthetics of the machine were considered to be a valued and important element. Nothing wrong with making something attractive.
I haven't had the occasion to try any of the Caswell plating products but have been curious as to how well they work. My experience with their products has been limited to powder coating. It's not as easy and simple as they like to make out in their product literature. There are many opportunities for fouling up a finish, but like any other finishing system, with practice and some learned skills, you can produce a very nice powder-coated finish on small components without having to go to a specialty shop.
Paul
Thanks for the link to the sewage pumps... such amazing, and amazingly beautiful, pieces of hardware for such a mundane task! They certainly took pride in their machines back then.
The valve gear is complete....sort of.
I need to get some acorn nuts in 00-90, 1mm and do some final shaping of the clevis'.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fvalvegear1.jpg&hash=2a4f29d804440298fd8e852eea27576db04deb73)
Close up.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fvalvegear2.jpg&hash=38744276fe31a80c1a6274ea476da24a484a877c)
The clevis and links were a lot of fun (not) several machining steps and fabrication of jigs to get the holes correct. The clevis start out as .062" tube and the rods are.045" for size reference.
And yes the linkage is all functional. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Guess I need to get some stuff to try out the finishes....
-Marty
Hi Marty, just catching up, beautiful workmanship on the engine.
Michael
Whoa.... this just gets better and better. Love all that spaghetti linkage Marty. It has a certain Rube Goldberg character to it. Superb work as usual...
Paul
Marty, when are you going to make some progress on the Corliss? As for the photos, I hope you did that without any help from your mom. -- Russ
P.S.: Don't paint this thing; it's too gorgeous to cover up.
Please hook it up to compressed air! I want to see the "whirl-e-gig" spin around! ;D ;D
Gil
Very nice Marty, looking forward to the diorama.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Holy moly!! That looks beautiful! And very complex.
Is this going to be a working model?
Wow! Modelers that can work that well with brass always amaze me. I've played with brass some but never got far with it, (and don't even want to get into my very short stint as a hobby machinist!) part of the problem is working in metal is a lot harder on the arthritis and tendonitis. Like the others said, it almost be a shame to cover it up in paint, but you'll always have the photos.
David
-MJ
You know your really getting good at this modeling thing!!!
Just excellent!!!
Jerry
Quote from: lab-dad on January 03, 2010, 09:12:54 AM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fvalvegear2.jpg&hash=38744276fe31a80c1a6274ea476da24a484a877c)
And yes the linkage is all functional. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Real nice work!
For the working links, how do you obtain nice, tight rivet connections that are not locked up?
I have been dabbling with rivet connections for functional linkages, but I find it hard to obtain consistent results.
Do yus any special tools?
Regards, Håvard H
Unc,
I'll have to paint it, it is silly to make a scale model and then leave it as a "toy"
Dont worry though, there will be plenty of brass showing ;)
Gil / Ray,
This will be a "dynamic" model; it will operate but i will use a small electric motor hidden somewhere.
Once I get it going I will shoot a movie (then figure out how to post it ???)
Havard,
The connections at the links are not rivets but bolts.
I can see how they look like rivets in the picture.
The originals used acorn nuts so that is what I will use, just have not ordered/installed them.
Sorry for the confusion!
I wish I could do rivets in .030"!
I would think using a .032" tube and flaring the ends with a die of sorts would work.
Thanks guys!
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on January 05, 2010, 05:01:36 AM
Havard,
The connections at the links are not rivets but bolts.
No kidding?
I could have sweared that you must have used rivets to pin the four arms to the solid wheel in the center...
I would be very interested in where you can obtain such bolts, maybe I could substitute my rivets for bolts in some situations. Are there hexnuts on the back?
Regards, Håvard H
Havard,
QuoteI have been dabbling with rivet connections for functional linkages, but I find it hard to obtain consistent results.
I solder rivets keeping moving parts together. I learned the trick from Pete McParlin of Backwoods Miniatures.
Punch a hole in a piece of printing paper and put it between the 2 parts. Push the rivet through and solder the rivet to part closest to the end of the rivet. File solder joint nicely round and remove the piece of paper. Has worked for me with H0e linkages of BM's Fowler and for the On30 Mallet I am building at the moment. Works much better than the shoulder rivets from Weinert, etc.
Jacq
Havard,
The large disc (wrist plate) is drilled and tapped, the bolts come through to the front and then I will attach the acorn nuts.
These are 1mm, scale hardware dot com has functional "bolts" down to .5mmhttp://www.scalehardware.com/ (http://www.scalehardware.com/)
They are only 10 miles from me but I still just mail order.
Jacq,
I'll have to try that tip. Thanks!
I don't know what to say about this!....really incredible :o....but, you're completely f*ing nutters! ;) ;D
MR
Marty, maybe instead of paint you could use metal blackener or that stuff Paul Rayner mentioned or something else. -- Russ
Good tip Jacq. Another method is to use graphite as a barrier. You can actually do this with a soft pencil or NeoLube, just draw or brush a line at the outer perimeter of where you want the solder to flow. It won't flow past the graphite unless, you're using way too much solder.
Paul
Paul,
what is important with the piece of paper methode is the small clearance ( 0,3mm) enabling free movement around the rivet of the linkage part.
I have used barrier material preventing solder to penetrate too deep, but it resulted nearly always in a too tight fit of the parts.
That piece of paper is just enough to take care of tolerances associated with the linkages.
Jacq
This is really quite stunning!
Very nice work! but what does a Corliss engine do?
I tried to find it in this thread but it can be hard to catch up with these long threads.
-Brian
Thanks everyone!
Marc,
What are you trying to say?
At least I am in good company! ::)
Brian
Basically a Corliss is a stationary steam engine, the "Corliss" really refers to the valve arrangement. Back when developed it made the Corless engines way more efficient. There were several variations on the Corliss design.
Corliss engines were used in sawmills and cotton plants just to name a few.
They came in many sizes as well, mine has a (scale) 16' flywheel.
-Marty
It is also about the most complicated valve system you could choose to model. Which makes this even more impressive.
QuoteGood tip Jacq. Another method is to use graphite as a barrier. You can actually do this with a soft pencil or NeoLube, just draw or brush a line at the outer perimeter of where you want the solder to flow. It won't flow past the graphite unless, you're using way too much solder.
Paul any chance of a photograph of your description?
Michael
Michael:
I have a photo of a loco (1:48 Lima Shay #122 on the "About" page on my blog) assembled using this method for soldering fittings to the boiler, cab walls and so forth, but the loco is painted so, that's not going to help much or at all for that matter. Looks like I should do a SBS on this technique. I've got a machining job in the shop right now for one of the members here. Once that's out of the way, I'll take some photos showing how to do this.
Paul
Quote from: lab-dad on January 05, 2010, 11:40:36 AM
Havard,
The large disc (wrist plate) is drilled and tapped, the bolts come through to the front and then I will attach the acorn nuts.
These are 1mm, scale hardware dot com has functional "bolts" down to .5mmhttp://www.scalehardware.com/ (http://www.scalehardware.com/)
They are only 10 miles from me but I still just mail order.
O yeah, I have already ordered some packages of bolts and nuts from SH. Have you any idea how he produces those little rascals?
Prior to discovering SH, I had only used cosmetic bolts in these small sizes, but it is extremly satisfying to bolt things together in a protypical way!
Jaq: Thanks for the soldering tip!
Regards, Håvard H
I just saw SH has a new line of "fake" fasteners; allen, slotted and phillips.
I need to go visit him and bring the Corliss to show him, may be he will show me around and I can take some pics of the manufacturing process? ;D
-Mj
QuoteLooks like I should do a SBS on this technique. I've got a machining job in the shop right now for one of the members here. Once that's out of the way, I'll take some photos showing how to do this.
Thanks Paul
WOW
I just looked at the start date of this, * months.
Alot has changed since then....
Anyway she's all done, the machining anyway, just need some 6mm brass balls for the governor.
-Marty
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Ffrontthreequarter.jpg&hash=c978a83c89edd18bbcd3d72c441bd5cbecd4858f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2FRRthreequarterA.jpg&hash=67a0a7c47a13ef676ac7c963681589724eb628c3)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fcorliss%2Fside.jpg&hash=9ccd41377fb08aa03125be7e6a078a3d1b20830c)
Wonder how long it will take to color it?! ??? ::)
Wow :o, That's just a beautiful model...visually and technically. Congratulations!
I think you have found your niche........"Scratch-built Brass Models".
Marc
Not bad overall. You are beginning to get the hang of basic model construction. -- ssuR
yep . Give me a small pinch of your skillz.
awesome build!
Philip
Marty:
It looks fantastic... excellent job. It probably says somewhere in the thread (ut I'm too lazy to go back and search for it), but did you cast the wheel core yourself or did that start out as part of something else?
The plaster bases look much better than your initial experiment. Really looking forward to seeing how you colour this....
Paul
Thanks guys,
Marc, F*$K that! >:( I am going back to styrene and wood-much faster to build! ;)
Paul, The wheel center is the only store bought part :( It is for a live steamer, found it on that auction site.
Working on taking a movie of it in action.
-Marty
-MJ
Wow that is just beautiful. I wouldn't even have known where to start on something like that. You neeed "Brass Balls" for what? I thought you had them when decided to do this project!!
Jerry
Beautiful! Well done!
"Brass balls" are lot less impressive when they only measure 6mm. ;)