Westlake Publishing Forums

This box and can is a birthday present for my son on his 55th this weekend.

These are in 1/12th scale 1" = 1'.  The can is one inch tall to the top of the lid (which screws on) The box is 1 3/4" tall by 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" Has 175+ nails made from .020 iron florist wire. The lid is removable and the can will be inside for him.  

The can is fabricated from sheet K&S hobby tin, is hollow and the spout works. The lid screws on and off.

As the story (fabricated) goes this box was found in the back room of an old abandoned machine shop.  Probably gears or parts for machinery were shipped in it. All those years it has knocked around in the shop, probably used as a seat around the wood heater or as a coffee and lunch table, maybe even a tall foot rest or step up; and finally it got put in the back room where it sat for years.

Bill

This is the progress of building the kerosene can. I have posted a tin Tutorial else where http://www.fineminiaturesforum.com/index.php?/topic/112-tinware-tutorial/ towards the end I go into more detail on my step by step building of a piece of tinware.

This is the punch press I use for forming dome tops of my cans.

This is the die former for forming the dome tops of the can.

The formed top with the threaded cap.  The top setting on the body before soldering.

Two views of the finished can.

Bill,

it's a pleasure to see the model and to watch the steps of fabrication.

Quote from: 5thwheel on April 30, 2015, 05:49:22 AMThe can is fabricated from sheet K&S hobby tin

Is this material pure tin or tinned iron [language barrier ]? In first case I could not imagine how you may have soldered that. How did you make the threads? Tubing with cut in threads?

Cheers,
Volker

Volker, the tin is feristan tinplate. In the olden days it was iron base dipped in tin, now days it is tin plated on a base of mild steel. This is a normal tin available almost in any country (especially Mexico and India). The thickness is .010, it solders ver nicely. I have many pounds of commercial grade for making full size small boxes etc. But it is too hard and kinks when I roll it for the smaller cans.  I use the tin available from the hobby shop (K & S) It is softer and forms better on the smaller scale.

My first attempt was to remake an 8-32 screw for the threaded base for the cap but it came out look crude so I changed mild steel rod,  drilled then turned down to max thread diameter and then threaded with a die held in the die holder on the tailstock.  I then turn the piece (threaded end) around and hold it in a collet in the lathe and turn a base to fit through the lid and form the flange.  The cap is made from mild steel rod, chucked in the lathe,  turned to major diameter then drilled and threaded.  I then knurl it.  I then turn it to the minor diameter (just thin enough to not brake through to the threads) I leave a small knurled collar on it then part it off.  I cut a small tin disc and solder it on the top of the cap with my resistance solder tool. Final is to mount the finished end in a collect and carefully turn the tin cap down some and round the edge off.

Just great!
More things "to do"... or try to....
-Marty

I love it. Before you gave it to him did you fill it with an adult beverage suitable for responsible consumption? -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on April 30, 2015, 12:05:18 PM
I love it. Before you gave it to him did you fill it with an adult beverage suitable for responsible consumption? -- Russ

  He doesn't get it until Saturday afternoon. It is so small it wouldn't hold a quarter of an ounce and it is pretty dirty inside from aging chemicals but I'll probably buy him a beer.   

Holy cow, that is fine work! Perfect!

You and Paul Revere!  Nice tin work Bill!

This is the complete forming die for putting a dome in tin (annealed brass or copper forms better) The tin can not be annealed.

A tin disc is cut to fit in the bottom of the dark former (upper left) The former is then dropped in the aluminum holder shell.  The flanged aluminum top is placed in the die pressing down on the outer rim of the disc to be formed. The screws are installed and tightened down to hold the outer flange of the disc flat. This keeps the flange from badly wrinkling. Some times there are minor wrinkles but they can be worked out on the edge of an anvil. You have to play around with the tension of the screws to give the best results.

Bill

What a great treasure for your son.

Gordon Birrell

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/

The die is almost more of a work of art than the work of art you used it to create. -- Russ