Russian Shop Truck Lathe

[pwranta193]

1:35th scale - my next project.  Some quick shots while the pedestal mounts 2 part epoxy dries.  The total length is scaled down from 2 meters...  now on to the gears and pulleys, and add all the additional details to the control panels.  My light box is broken down, so these were shot on my mini bench at the dining room table (we had about 2 good hours of sunlight today, but I lost the window of photographic opportunity  )

These were meant to go in the back of a Russian Army repair trucks across the back of the driver's cab.  For these images:

• While the whole thing has yet to have any of the tiny punched details added,
• I'll need a traversing hand wheel for that front plate (what is that mid lathe assembly called?), and
• The blank upper box (headstock mount?) face needs a full set of controls
• I'll need a traversing hand wheel for that front plate (what is that mid lathe assembly called?); and the handle needs a knob still (I turned the handles out of toothpicks - I 'm not sure how they are going to cast yet   )

[pwranta193]

And the line drawings, graciously provided by Saúl García and from some of his reference manuals.  Interesting that the same book shows two different lathes.  I'm going for the ones in the two side perspective, because I like the pedestal detail:

[Malachi Constant]

(I turned the handles out of toothpicks - I 'm not sure how they are going to cast yet   )

Make sure you seal the wood parts really, really, really well ... RTV loves to creep into every little detail, which is generally a good thing ... but it also loves to creep into porous surfaces ... and it does NOT separate well from those (which can lead to tearing of mold and/or destruction of pattern pieces). -- Dallas

[pwranta193]

Thanks Dallas - I was thinking I'd dip them in super thin CA?  Steve Reid, my casting guy for the big drill press, was having cats, as I was using a lot of non standard materials.  He'd throw something under pressure and there would be a void or a split.  I'm trying to make sure the casting team doesn't show up with pitchforks and torches this time around 

I'm not sure what you call that type of handle (mine looks too much like a ball pein hammer at this point), but I'm not sure they'll even hold up to casting.  This one is a little larger than a grain of rice and I still have to add the final outcropping to it

[marc_reusser]

Very neat piece. Nice work so far...look forward to seeing how you do those pedestals.

M

[lab-dad]

Very cool!
The drawings are a great advantage!
Question;
Why not use brass for masters?
It can be turned using a drill and files and soldered together.
Just a suggestion, I'm sure you would if you could, but may be you need to try.....
-Marty

[Junior]

Some great work there Paul! Where will this be going in the end? Maybe I missed something in another thread  ?

Anders

[TRAINS1941]

Nice job so far.  Just love these machines you guys scratch build.

Jerry

[pwranta193]

Hey guys - thank you for the input!  

I'm having the nice people over at the Really Big Laser company do a number of items for the master, and I'm betting on his solutions for what I've got planned for the pedestals (the doors will be some layered laser cuts).  I'm hoping that the gear box detail will work out as well - more to follow...

I'm going to grab some brass stock this weekend - It makes sense, but I just never thought of it.  Frankly, it would probably be the solution to those bits snapping off while trying to turn then down to nano widths  

Junior - I hope to build a complete rear box upgrade for this:
http://www.hlj.com/product/MNA35136

I'm torn at this point between just the tools, benches and accessories, and doing the entire rear set up (essentially a cab-over camper with flip down and flip up sides).  The repair truck box looks, frankly, idiot simple, and it would require casting a bunch of flat sided sheets - that in reality would be best served to do in styrene    Our best guess at this point is that it was made of painted plywood - more research in the works... here is an image of the one used on the GAZ-AA (apologies - I don't remember the source - but it was internet):

[marc_reusser]

Neat pic, thanks for sharing. I think your plywood guess would be correct. Could easily do all that as laser cut parts.

You can always make two kits from this venture. One the complete conversion with the cab-over box, and the other just the machine(s), for those that want to use it in a different setting.


Marc

[pwranta193]

Okay - some critical bits have arrived and we are off to the races 

The kit came in last week from Hobby Link Japan... very nice bits overall, perhaps too many parts, but perfect fro someone who may want to show the engine space, or junkyard detailing.  More in a few days.  Pardon the picture quality, this was some quick Droid phone work on the back porch.
Next is some detail pieces for the lathe master - I did up some 2D artwork and Dave was able to translate it into these bits in a couple of thicknesses.  The bottom bits will be stacked (some items will be removed or moved - the star and a gear or two) to create gear box for the end of the lathe.  Beautiful razor thin cuts - this should be a lot of fun, if I can keep them robust enough to stand up to the resin master process.

[marc_reusser]

Sweet!...great to see this moving forward...and very lovely bits from Dave.

Marc

[pwranta193]

Playing with the details... again, shot with my phone - but not nearly as bad as I thought. I'll scab the light box back together next week for real shots as it starts coming together.  I doubt the phone will work on the light grey styrene of the GAZ kit as well 

In the gear box shot, you can see three layers on the right, and two on the covering door - I may increase these by one layer.  What I'd like from you folks is an opinion from a builder or customer's point of view - would you want:
1) to have these guts exposed and build them layered (in which case I'd probably include them as a paper media accessory in the kit), or
2) have the gear box closed and get on with the bigger project at hand - using just a resin filled piece as the gear box?

There is nothing stopping me from providing both - I'd just like to know if this level of detail is of interest to anyone besides me?

I'm also looking at the pedestal mount's doors - Dave gave me two thicknesses to work with and I'm just doing a little dry fitting here.  These will be finished off with some hinge detail, along with some rivets and bolts.  I'm not sure what the purpose of the left pedestal is - but it seems like that front panel is a fairly beefy construct in the front view - but less so in the side - any ideas?