Handling/glueing of tiny styrene bits ....

[mad gerald]

G'day all,

when I started scratchbuilding with styrene, I first used .080 and/or .040 sheets, then changed to .020, because thicker styrene looks more coarse (right term?) ... building with .020 rods, following Marc's technique (please see pic below) I found already pretty tricky ... but how do you handle and glue so tiny bits like self punched rivets with a diameter of approx. .040 or strips < .040 with sp precisely ... seems to much for my eyes and hands ...    

Do you use styrene glue or i. e. acetone?

[JohnP]

Spend a lot of money on a Swiss made #5 stainless steel tweezer. Save it for only grabbing those small parts. Keep it sharp with fine sandpaper.

Use a sharpened pin or new X-acto blade point to pick the tiny parts up by poking them.

When gluing use a tiny brush to apply the solvent glue. If you use a needle tube or Teflon tube crush it with pliers to further reduce the diameter.

When gluing have ready a small bit of torn paper. Use the torn edge to immediately soak up excess adhesive. It will dry up the joint quickly.

John

[DaKra]

What John said.    Plus you can use a metal file to sharpen up a pair of cheapo tweezers.  Make sure they are in the closed position when you do the filing, so the jaws match up.   

If you don't already have magnification like an Optivisor, you should get one (the more expensive version of the two has a better headband and real glass lenses but they are both good).     

And real good workbench lighting. 

Dave

[mad gerald]

... thx...

... a Swiss made #5 stainless steel tweezer ...

... If you don't already have magnification like an Optivisor, you should get one ...

... noted that ...

... When gluing use a tiny brush to apply the solvent glue. If you use a needle tube or Teflon tube crush it with pliers to further reduce the diameter.

When gluing have ready a small bit of torn paper. Use the torn edge to immediately soak up excess adhesive. It will dry up the joint quickly.

... And real good workbench lighting ...

... improved/translated into action ...

Gerald

[marc_reusser]

Gerald,

I am currently gluing at least 1000+,  .018 dia rivets punched out of .005 styrene. I use good worbenck lighting (2 lamps) and 3x magnification reading glasses (I don't like the visibility limitations of the Optivisor, nor the warmth/sweat at the band), and I do all the moving, lifting, placing and holding in place of the rivets with the tip of a #11 Xacto knife (gently so as not to scar the surface when done). I use an old 0/18 artists brush to apply the solvent (Plastruct liquid solvent). Most often I use my left hand to lift, place and hold the rivet in place, while with my right hand gently applying the solvent. Some areas that are hard to reach or work with, with both tools at onec,  I will slightly dab/wet the surface with solvent and then place the rivet (you do not want to create drop or puddle when doing this...you want to use just enough solvent to make the surface "tacky" so that it will hold the rivet you are placing...and no you cant make a whole are tacky at onece...it needs to be done one rivet at a time).  One my rivets are placed I will often go back and light apply some more solvent over or around them to make sure they are firmly fixed in place.

If I need to apply the rivets with ACC (say where thy are placed on wood or resin) I place a dab of ACC on an upturned paper cup, then with the rivet on the tip of my Xacto very cgently touch it flat to the ACC...then dab of any extra ACC by touching it to the edge of the cup...then placing it on the model (Whan dabbing o the ACC and cup I do occasionally lose a rivet...maybe 1 in 15-20...but that's no problem). Other times I will use a sharp toothpick to simply place a VERY small dab of ACC on the surface where needed, than place the rivet....making sure no extra ACC squezes out the sides...or if it does, cleaning it up immediately.


HTH,

Marc

[DaKra]

Another handy thing to have when working in "Macro Mode" is a stable elevated platform to bring the work closer up to eye level.    Here's something I made for myself, its got an 8.5 x 11" surface, so I can clip paper sheets to it and toss 'em when they get gunked.   

[finescalerr]

"I am currently gluing at least 1000+,  .018 dia rivets punched out of .005 styrene."

Marc, what project is that for? I've always known you are nuts but this thing proves it! Any photos yet?

Russ

[marc_reusser]

"I am currently gluing at least 1000+,  .018 dia rivets punched out of .005 styrene."

Marc, what project is that for? I've always known you are nuts but this thing proves it! Any photos yet?

Russ

Russ, It's for the "Watery Grave" project....no photos...not really anything interesting to see....just adding rivets/detail to what I have already built so far.

Marc

[mad gerald]

G'day all,

just discovered your additional suggestions ... thanks a lot ... your input is very much appreciated ...

Another handy thing to have when working in "Macro Mode" is a stable elevated platform to bring the work closer up to eye level.    Here's something I made for myself, its got an 8.5 x 11" surface, so I can clip paper sheets to it and toss 'em when they get gunked.   

... simple, but pretty cool and effective!

I am currently gluing at least 1000+,  .018 dia rivets punched out of .005 styrene.

...*dang* ... 

I use good worbenck lighting (2 lamps) and 3x magnification reading glasses (I don't like the visibility limitations of the Optivisor, nor the warmth/sweat at the band), and I do all the moving, lifting, placing and holding in place of the rivets with the tip of a #11 Xacto knife (gently so as not to scar the surface when done) ... .

Now there seem to be oppotunities apart from being at odds with my fate (varifocal glasses and problems with thumb joints) ... I was already dabbling with the idea converting to larger scales i. e. 1/12 ... 

Massive cheers,
Gerald

[W.P. Rayner]

I am currently gluing at least 1000+,  .018 dia rivets punched out of .005 styrene.
Marc

As a good friend is fond of saying.. "It's a zen thing..."

Paul