Structure to model in paper/cardstock??

[Belg]

Guys, I would like to enter into a group build which uses this format, and wonder if anyone had any suggestions of something that would work well in HO scale in a 2 month time frame, with not alot of modeling time. I was thinking of a stucco structure perhaps which would fit into an old western mining/logging town. Thanks for any thoughts, links,pics or ideas. Research does not seem to be my forte as hard as I try. Pat

[finescalerr]

Given your timeframe, I would try a small rectangular wooden structure with shiplap or plain board siding. It could be anything: depot, sandhouse, freight shed, or general store.

If you use printed artwork, such as from Paper Creek, use a blunt needle to scribe the board joints (after protecting the artwork with Grumbacher Artist's Matte Varnish or candle wax). That's critical for a realistic appearance. Laminate the paper onto thicker cardstock or wood with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, cut out the doors and window openings, attach Crystal River or Grandt doors and windows, and then build up the "box" with a lot of bracing inside. By the time you add the roof, trim, porch, and other details it should take a couple of months of spare time.

Russ

[marc_reusser]

Pat,

To make a plaster/adobe looking southwest type structure I would recommend you star with 3/32-1/8" thick strathmore board. I have made many a real full size product design models using this stuff (microscope, coffee maker, car dashboard, suitcase, kids "space racers" toy, to name a few). It is a BEAR to cut because of it's thickness (replace your blade often), but, it will give you a good mass and thickness for plaster walls...it is extremely rigid and bonds well, and for a southwestern look once assembled and dry, corners and cornices can be radiused and shaped..carved unevenly and otherwise modified with a hobby knife and some fine sandpaper. Make sure you use the real/good quality strathmore from a reputable art supply store (Michaels is not one of these....Dick Blick is OK if it is a well equipped one rather than one aimed more at old lady/kid crafts.or amature hour art the local school.)

DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED with this stuff....think of it just as you would a piece of sheet basswood. In the end you will be painting and finishing it like you would had you built this from wood...you can even apply a "plaster" looking finsh over it using modelling paste...you can even use modelling paste for putty/filler if you have a gap.....though a gap, should be avoided wherever possible....the art here making sure your joints are tight and clean.

The only other thing I woild really advise you be careful of, is "overcutting" inside corners (meaning your cut goes beyound the other/perpendicular cut).....this is a bit harder to patch and hide, but can still be done...if all else fails add trim.

If you do an adobe style building, you can even laminate a thinner piece of strathmore around the bottom portion of the building to create a portruding wainscoat...the top edge can then be sanded and eased into the main wall...when painted it will look like one piece.

Two more things.....at all cost try to avoid glue on the visible surfaces..ie from your finger, oozing out of gaps etc...it can be a bitch to clean and hide on the final model.

If you are going to paint the model in the end, you may want to consider sealing the entire model with a matte varnish...this will help the paper resist absorbing the moisture from the paint and thus warping, ...and....it will seal some of the small cracks and give the model an overal/cohesive surface.


Marc

[EDIT]....one other real important thing....when you cut strathmore..especially the thick stuff, the upper edges along the cut will "rise"...once you have finished cutting the piece...before gluing it....take a piece of tracing paper and a burnishing tool (in need a smooth round xacto handle or something sim will do)....place the tracing paper on the piece/over the cut edge, and run the tool along it, to press down the raised lip.....this may take a few times till you get the feel of what the right amount of pressure is to get the lip back flush with the surface, yet not so much that you round-off the corner.  Doing this is what will help give you a nice tight and accurate fit, as well as give a neat/clean surface, and transition to the ther glued parts. It will also keep the edge from fraying more than necessary during handling and sanding.

When cutting...make sure you cut VERTICAL/PERPENDICULAR...You may need to make more than one pass on the thick stuff...so take care that your blade does not wander inside the cut in the subequent passes.

[michael mott]

To add to Marc's comment re cutting card, one trick thak I have used to help avoid the "raising" on the edge is to cut about 1/16 of an inch over size then to slice off the thin strip after the main cut. the thin strip curls away relieving the pressure that causes the "raise" in the first cut. I realize that this is not always possible depending on the particular shape.

Regards Michael

[Belg]

Guys, wonderful advice and information. All the information will be very helpful, Marc there is one part I'm not following?

"If you do an adobe style building, you can even laminate a thinner piece of strathmore around the bottom portion of the building to create a portruding wainscoat...the top edge can then be sanded and eased into the main wall...when painted it will look like one piece."

I know what wainscoting is but how does it relate here? Do you have an example perhaps? Thanks for the help guys, Pat