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Figures - cloth textures

Started by Carlo, November 03, 2010, 04:40:22 PM

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Carlo

Hello, all -

I am sculpting some new human figures, in 1" scale (almost 6" tall). I have done all this before, commercially, and had no trouble in "smaller" scales (1:48 to 1:20). However, in the "larger" scales (1:16 to 1:6), I have always been dissatisfied with the look of the final surfaces. In the large scales, there needs to be a visible-but-subtle texture to cloth surfaces to varying degrees, to distinguish them from flesh surfaces. I have used both Magic Sculpt and Polymer Clay (ProSculpt) as media. I have tried cross-hatch scratching up the surface, pressing in actual cloth pieces, etc. Nothing looks at all good, so far.

Then there is the paint problem. In this scale, most cloth should be dead flat dull (almost "fuzzy" looking), while flesh is smoother, and has a slight sheen. I paint mostly with brushes, due to the small areas, shading, and multiple color changes. I've tried oils and cheapo acrylics.

I would welcome any and all suggestions as to how I might proceed.
Thanks, Carlo
http://www.spirito.biz

NORCALLOGGER

Carlo,
A friend of mine uses, on his 1:13 figures, a single ply of tissue paper glued on then painted.  I don't have any pictures but they look pretty good.  I think he must be the proprietor of the worlds smallest tailor shop.
Later
Rick

darrylhuffman

Carlo,

You may be able to achieve the effect of texture by cutting all the bristles in your brush very short so that you can use a "stippling" method of applying your paint.

You may want to also experiment by mixing a small amount of talcum powder in with your paint.  This should roughen your surface very lightly.

I don't know the medium you use for molding your figures or carving your figures, but you may be able to "stipple" the surface before painting.

If I am casting a wall and want to carve both sides, I find that "stippling" the surface as it sets up allows me to avoid the very smooth surface that does not look realistic to my eye.

Darryl Huffman
Anchorage, Alaska
Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@yahoo.com
The search for someone else to blame is always succcessful.

DaKra

1" scale is "doll house" scale.   You might be able to find some suitable commercial figures and pieces, though they are probably a bit crude out of the box.   There are some excellent figure sculptors in the doll house hobby, suggest having a look at their work for solutions.  Web forums, such as CDHM.org are a good place to start.   

Dave

Malachi Constant

Carlo --

Liquitex and others make a variety of textured paint mediums (media) ... those can be mixed with acrylic paints, used by themselves ... OR ... mixed with another non-textured medium, which would effective "thin" the textured medium and make the effect more subtle.

Have a look at the art store (or even Micheal's) ... they usually have swatches that demonstrate the texture.  Not sure if there's anything there that would be subtle enough for what you need, but seems somewhat likely based on my own limited experience using these.

Cheers,
Dallas
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

Carlo

I Made two test pieces (pant legs) today, from ProSculpt polymer clay. First attempt at creases and textures. On left, the creases were too sharp and shallow. On the right they were softer and deeper (and much better) I think. I used a toothbrush to create some texture, but it was too coarse. I'll keep trying... critiques welcome!
Carlo

DaKra

I think Dallas' idea of using a paint texture is a very good idea because it will form a thin and even texture.   The bristle imprints aren't even and appear pretty deep.   They do have an interesting quality, to my eye, but more in an art sculpture way, as they don't really resemble scale cloth weave.   

I know Krylon sells a can of spraypaint to form a suede texture, apparently there is spray on flocking material for the model car enthusiasts.   But I think a very matte paint will work best because it forms a rough but even surface.   

Another thing you can try is use some very fine mesh as a mask, and airbrush highlights through it.  It will be out of scale, but might suggest cloth if you don't overdo.   I use ribbon material for HO scale window/door screens, its very fine, you can find it at Michael's.   

Dave

Ray Dunakin

In the model car hobby, they have some special paints for simulating cloth textures, such as on seats and linings. Maybe something like that might be worth checking out.

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

eTraxx

Michaels sells the Golden line of Mediums etc. Here's a link to their page ..

It doesn't show the Fine Pumice Gel I saw at the store .. I think it's worth looking at. They have quite a selection of textured mediums.

Ed Traxler

Lugoff, Camden & Northern RR

Socrates: "I drank WHAT?"

james_coldicott

Just a thought but could you use the 'oil gloop' method of dilute PVA and dust on some baking powder or similar fine dust to give a light texture? May require you to sieve the dust first so as to remove any lumps but would definitely add a little something prior to painting. Key would be keeping the glue layer very thin so as only to pick up the thinnest layer of baking powder or talc.

Experience is suggesting to me that adding the texture at the sculpting stage would be very difficult so a secondary texture layer prior to or integral with the paint would seem to make sense.

James

teejay99

Two things :

1) I've used sanded grout mixed with paint to provide an even texture on the painted surface ....comes in a variety of colors , especially earth tones .

2) Ive used 1 ply of a Kleenex type tissue , sprayed with flat Krylon Camouflage , to resemble a tarp . You can krinkle the tissue after the paint has dried to provide plausible wrinkles . It may work for other fabric looks .

Terry
Wilson's Law: As soon as you find a product that you really like, they will stop making it.