What tool would you like that you don't have?

[eTraxx]

later on ..

Final Update: Model Expo & the Micro-Precision Table Saw from Preac Tool Company
Unfortunately, after researching what it would take to manufacture the Preac Table Saw, we have determined that it is not economically feasible given all of our other projects and commitments at this time. That being said,we are still actively looking for a new hobby table saw - we have found a few possible substitutes and are working with the various manufacturers - a new saw WILL be coming soon!

[TRAINS1941]

Not a tool per-say, but I would just like more time at the bench to better my skills and get more stuff actually built/done.

Actually that sounds like a tool I could use.
Good thought Marc.

Jerry

[Design-HSB]

Hello,

after I now already possess a saw to stay with me but frankly also wishes.


Fine-cut saw with growing calipers.

I also made ​​once practical tools itself produced.

Self-made pliers stand, here, the most commonly used guns are kept ready at work.

I want me a Widerstandslötgerät from demm BBF build itself.

Here once the required transformer.

[RichD]

Design-HSB... what make and model is the table saw? 

I do like the dial caliper on the TS.. I have them on my larger wood working machines... they do make a difference in accurate and repeatable cuts

Rich D

[Design-HSB]

Hello Rich D,
the base of the saw is a cheap tile cutter.
The table comes from a Model Kolegen from Croatia and digital caliper and further improvements are of me.

The benefits of saw the powerful motor with 550 watts and can be clamped to every conceivable sawblades with adapters.

[Lawton Maner]

I want a Bridgeport Vertical Mill and the concrete floor in the workshop to support it. 

I really like my Byrnes Tablesaw.  http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index.html?id_mm=1220MM920589

He also makes other woodworking machines.

[Ray Dunakin]

I sure wouldn't mind having the Byrnes tablesaw, it looks like a really fine piece of equipment!

[Lawton Maner]

Ray:

So far the only down side to the saw is the 1/2" limit to the micrometer.  Working in 1:48 scale I find it isn't much of a problem, but I can see where it could become one in larger scales.  Having run a commercial cabinet shop for over a quarter century, I've adopted some of the jigs and fixtures I've used on full sized table saws such as a sliding panel to cross cut pieces.  I've made the left side long enough to cut 80% of the longer pieces I need and have even cut ties for On3 with it.  When I made a piano jig to layout the ties for a series of turnouts, I first crosscut the spacer to length and then dialed each individual spacer as I glued it down with absolute confidence in the accuracy of the pieces.  Build one or two major projects, think a large trestle and you will easily pay for the saw.   Plus if you need a timber s scale 3 3/4" X 9 1/2" you don't have to settle for a 4" X 10" timber.

I have modified a rip fence with a finger jig attached to it so that I can make shiplap decking for RR car floors and am currently trying to figure out how to cut tongue and groove flooring for a series of EBT and Westside Lumber cars I intend to work on once I'm on lockdown after the bone marrow transplant.  I intend to mill as much of the lumber I might need prior to going into the hospital and will attempt to do at least 4 cars during my isolation.

Now if Byrnes could be talked into making a shaper to the same standards, I'd never come out of the shop.

Lawton

[Belg]

LAWTON, i WOULD LOVE TO SEE SOME OF THOSE JIGS YOU JUST TALKED ABOUT!!

[Lawton Maner]

Belg:

I don't have a digital camera so a description will have to do.

The hold down jig is a piece of 0.100 Al plate about 6" high X 10" long which bolts to the existing rip fence extension with 3 4-40 flathead screws.  I had to drill and tap the extension fence to be able to attach the Al plate.  The finger jig is a small version of the ones used by cabinetmakers around the world.  I use it to hold the wood tight against the table, and if necessary, can use a second one clamped to the table to hold the piece against the rip fence.

Micro Mark sells a sliding table for their modeler's table saw and mine is made from 2 Al slides which fit into the crosscut guides on the saw, a piece of 5mm aircraft plywood and 2 pieces of 3/4" X 3/4" pine scrap glued to the plywood with the one closest to the operator carefully placed to assure that the cut is square.  the left side is about 10" long and can have an even longer piece added to it so that a stop can be clamped to it for repeated cuts the same length.  Other pieces can be attached to it to make special cuts.

A "piano jig" is simply a piece of 1/4" Masonite with  3/4" WIDE PIECE OF Masonite glued to each long edge and having an inside opening wide enough to take the longest turnout tie you might need.  In O Scale the inside width is about 4 1/2".  Then 1/32" basswood is cut to a width to leave the proper gap between ties and glued to the jig.  Since each size of turnout has unique tie spacings I have a jig for each turnout from #5 to #12.  The name comes from the jig when full of ties sort of looks like the key board of a piano.  And, yes, an O Scale #12 crossover is HUGE.

Go to your local home improvement store and find a book on how to use a table saw, and almost everything that can be done on a full sized one can be done safely on a miniature one with care and patience. 

BTW, my BIG saw in the cabinet shop  was a 14" 7 HP monster which would rip 4" hard maple easier then most 8" homeowner saws cut 3/4" pine shelving.

Lawton

[Andi Little]

Not sure if this fits in this thread?

But, this is one of the other items I covet, ....



A bench sander - "THIS" bench sander to be exact - £70.00. Small and suitable for model making?? - The reason I'm not sure if this is the correct thread is because I'm going to ask for anyones opinion of it as a piece of kit - "OR" can anyone make another recommendation?

I don't want to spend the earth, but I do need it to manage hobby projects without a fuss and palaver.

Here's the link to the actual product page.............http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-aw130bd2-belt-and-disc-sander-prod803526/

[Gordon Ferguson]

Hi Andy ,

first amended link

www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-aw130bd2-belt-and-disc-sander-prod803526/

Now I know I am going to rain on your parade but this is not going to do what I think you want .................. unless you are getting in to building dolls houses using 1/4 inch ply!

The big problem is that has no speed control (they are also pretty noisy) , so even with the finest sandpaper if you want to sand plastic you will have melt issues + all the adjustable areas like tilting the table are all just too coarse  ............. I talk from some experience here as I have one very simliar (Clarke) in the workshop but I use it only for standard carpentry jobs not modelling.

Couple of years ago, following various recommendations I bought one of these

www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/821001/Proxxon-Micromot-TG-125E-Disc-Sander-140-W/SHOP_AREA_37387&promotionareaSearchDetail=005;jsessionid=91A4786794F83DFE5495CD0570E11528.ASTPCEN15

Personally, I could not say I would recommend it. Think Proxxon stuff used to be really good but standards appear to have dropped. Speed control is good but even the slowest speed is still too fast for sanding small plastic cross sections, although it very quiet, got good dust extraction and the adjustment is pretty accurate and fine.

I have struggled to find a high quality piece of kit in this area, there are some nice ones available in the States but shipping and import dues just make the prices ridiculous.

Sorry, appreciate that all of this is no help at all but maybe somebody out there can recommend a piece of kit ,available at least in Europe that has a fine speed control and can sit on the bench and be used without disturbing wife/dog or anybody else !

EDIT

sorry forgot, had this same discussion with a friend a few weeks ago and, he helpfully ? said I had bought the wrong sander in the Proxxon range and that I should have got this one

www.proxxon-direct.com/acatalog/copy_of_Disc_Sander_TG_250_E.html

He assured me that it would be perfect, I'm not convinced as the adjustable speed still appears too high, but at that price it would have to be !!!! 

[billmart]

Andi -

I have a nearly identical unit on the workbench in my garage, and I love it!  Yes, as Gordon said, it's noisy, and dusty, and only has one speed (too fast), but it works great on wood.  I've also used it on a few resin castings.  It does require a light touch 'cause it can remove more than you wanted in just a few seconds.  I recently used mine to sand some deck boards for a RR flatcar.  I got 15 boards with lengths that varied by no more than 0.005 inches.  (I also got 3 boards that were too short. )

Would a nicer one be better?  Absolutely, but for me, not enough better to justify the $$$$.

Bill Martinsen

[Andi Little]

Thanks very much for your replies lads - I'm glad I asked as I was on the verge of ordering one - Now! not so sure.

You're right Gordon - and you know me so well. It was definitely for modelling purposes rather than "shop" work and so would of ended up feeling quite disappointed I'm sure.
I know seventy quid isn't the end of the world but I'd sooner put it towards something that does the job I want it to.

Thanks for your reply to Bill, it does help to put it all in perspective. But I would really like something that just did it's job without any angst or fuss. It might deserve a place at some point in the future but right now I'm looking for something capable of a little finesse.

Thanks again chepps - I might look into something that could perhaps be lathe mounted???