Love it all but the glue!

[John McGuyer]

Use the old model airplane building trick. Use the yellow glue and then put a small dab of CA on the same joint. The CA will hold the parts while the yellow glue dries. On model airplane frames, we would stick them together with CA then you could take them off the board and brush yellow glue around the joint. That allows access all the way around the joint. On bigger pieces, we would put yellow glue between the parts, then put a tiny dab of CA outside to hold them.

John

[David King]

I'm suprised nobody mentioned Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue.   This is my favorite for bonding wood and paper products, as well as clear plastic.  It's doesn't dry nearly as fast as CA, but it's by far faster than any other white glue I've tried.

David

[Ken Hamilton]

Call me old fashioned, but I LOVE Walthers Goo.......
Yellow glue (for wood) comes in second, followed by Testors liquid for styrene and CA for everything else.

For tricky applications, I'll tack the pieces in place with Goo and seal the deal with a drop of CA.
Works like a charm.

[finescalerr]

Ken, I'm with you on that. I've been using Goo ever since the '80s and have learned to appreciate its qualities above most others. It is usually my first choice even though many people think I'm nuts. For paper model construction it's all but a necessity. -- Russ

[Brian Donovan]

I usually Titebond or Titebond II for outdoor projects. I have also used Testor's wood glue with good results. It sets quite fast and won't glue your fingers like CA.



-Brian

[chester]

Particularly when gluing two dissimilar materials like wood to metal or metal to plastic, and on larger surfaces, a decent 5 min. epoxy has always been among my top choices.

[JohnP]

Russ, GOO glue smells good too like the olden days of modeling. CA, especially when I flow a big fillet, is acrid and no fun at all.

[David King]

If the smell of CA is a problem for you I recommend you try foam safe CA.  I discovered last year that I had developed an allergy to CA fumes.  Nothing too serious, just my eyes would water pretty bad and my nose would run.  Soon after I switched to foam safe CA and have had no noticible allergic reactions since.  I use the generic stuff, (hobby shop label) labeled as "Super Gold+"  100% foam safe and odorless.  That stuff also works with the regular accelerator and seems to be just as strong as regular CA.  I tried Zap's version of foam safe which was much more expensive and requires a special accelerator and was very disappointed, didn't work very well at all.

David

[Scratchman]

All I use is CA for everything but styrene to styrene. I mostly use the super thin 1-3 sec. and on some things the extra thick 10-25 sec.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[John McGuyer]

Dave from Ozark sent me some of that new glue he is advertising to try. So far I found it is strong, clear and dries fairly rapidly. It tends to be a little rubbery even after drying so doesn't sand well. That does mean it should take shock well. It tends to be a little stringy when you try to put it on with a toothpick in tight areas. It really does remind me of the old DUCO that I loved in my early model airplane days (daze). It is faster drying though. I've just started trying different materials and it worked well on wood but not on polycarbonate.

John