A painting and weathering challenge? Purple Haze?

[gnichols]

No, not the Jimi Hendrix song, but... an effect I'd like to achieve.  But I have no idea how to do it.  Perhaps one of you have already found the solution?

Back in the good old days, when auto paint wasn't all that good, dark colors would oxidize in the sun.  My folks had a black DeSoto sedan and the oxidation would appear first as a light purple / blue haze over the black.  I like it... my dad hated it.  In a way, it was like a candy tint, but it only appeared on the surfaces (horizontal) that got the most sun.  This purple haze could be removed by a good wash and waxing.

So... any ideas?  Solutions?  I'd like to create this purple haze on my 1:8 Model T rail car project.  Thanx in advance, as they say.  Gary

PS.. leaving town tomorrow for the NG convention... so if you happen to post a response I won't be back for awhile.  Until then... keep your brains working!

[Malachi Constant]

Well, there are some real experts on achieving amazing finishes here, but they haven't chimed in yet ... ...

I know the look you're describing (neighbor's black car has it!) and here's my idea:
-- Black or faded black base coat
-- Vallejo purple ink (maybe some black too?) mixed with their Glaze Medium.
-- The inks are translucent
-- The glaze medium is a thinner that will introduce a bit of gloss and depth
-- Both can be thinned with water (wet water is better -- drop of flow-aid, etc.)
-- Also note that the glaze medium acts as a retarder, so allow more drying time before handling

Please do NOT try this on the model you've been building ... but, if it sounds good, give it a shot on some scrapbox item.

Also, Marc and others here do some amazing stuff with oil paints and I'm willing to bet there are some really great possibilities there ... but dunno the appropriate medium, etc.

Let us know what works!
Dallas

[Malachi Constant]

PS -- I have a very similar question in terms of how to suggest stockings as shown on the 1/35 scale figure below.  Suspect that multiple ink glazes would work.  Overall coverage first ... then feathering additional layers into the shadows, etc.  But ... very open to other ideas on this as well.  They did a nice job on the printed skirt too ... think sponge painting would work there.

Cheers,
Dallas

[RoughboyModelworks]

You might try a glaze of very thin blue/purple enamel over the base coat black (assuming the base coat is lacquer or acrylic). This is a method I've used for weathering on locos for years, enamel over lacquer. The advantage is the enamel thinner won't attack the lacquer and you can remove any mistakes with the thinner without risking the main paint coats. With practice you can also streak, fade and rub out the enamel weathering coats with thinner. If you spray it dry it would give you a slight texture that might appear different under angular light sources. If you spray it wet, it will give you a translucent glaze sheen. A little experimentation on some scrap stock would be a good idea. Since subtlety is the key, the enamel would need to be mostly thinner and applied with a fine dual-action airbrush. I've used a Paasche Turbo AB for my enamel weathering for years. Not sure they're readily available anymore but I expect there are equally precise and subtle machines available from other manufacturers.

Paul

[Tom Neeson]

You could try mixing Tamiya acrylic clear red and blue, thinning it down and airbrushing light coats. Maybe mix in a little clear smoke to dull it down.

Tom

[Bexley]

PS -- I have a very similar question in terms of how to suggest stockings as shown on the 1/35 scale figure below.  Suspect that multiple ink glazes would work.  Overall coverage first ... then feathering additional layers into the shadows, etc.  But ... very open to other ideas on this as well.  They did a nice job on the printed skirt too ... think sponge painting would work there.

Cheers,
Dallas

I would paint the highlights and shadows in skin tones, then use very thin glazes of black (with a small amount of flesh tone mixed in) to tint the skin.

This article has a bit on it, though the glazes are applied by airbrush, and the figure is larger (90mm, I think) than 1:35. But the idea is the same. I did a similar effect on a much smaller figure (28mm) for white stockings, which was brush painted.

[Ray Dunakin]

Holy moly, the detail in that figure is amazing! The sculpting and the painting of it are both incredible.

[Malachi Constant]

Russ -- Holy Moly you selected a smart forum format!  I clicked reply on a tab I had open, and it warned me that a new reply had been posted since I opened the tab.  Far out.

Bexley -- THANK YOU for that link (excellent tutorial with nice big photos!) and your personal comments.  Pretty much reinforces my "best guess" on the approach to take, which is reassuring.

Ray -- Agreed.  Ordered a couple of these and look forward to trying some of the advanced stuff like stockings, lace, printed fabrics, etc.  I have a couple local buddies getting into 1:35 who've asked me to paint a couple of figures, so I dug out a couple more of my own unpainted ones ... looking forward to doing more of them.

Gary -- Sounds like all the replies so far focus on various glazing techniques, which are also covered on artist sites outside the RR hobby.  Choice probably depends on which media/mediums are most comfortable.  Again, I hope you'll post notes/photos once you've decided which approach to take.

Cheers,
Dallas

[Bexley]

Who makes that figure? I am always looking for urban civilians in 1/35. Women doubly so- I must have bought five or six of the Masterbox "VE Day" kit by now to get the two women in it for kitbashing.

[Malachi Constant]

Bexley --

The one in the photo is ML-002 WW2 Street Girl from Aurora Model:
http://aurora-model.jp/e-military1.html

Click the tab to see the next page with additional figures.  These are cast in lead, not my favorite medium, but I ordered the Street Girl to check the quality (looks good).  Price in yen on the site translated to a higher US$ price for me than buying from their ebay listing, which includes shipping in the price.  Most expensive single figure I've purchased!

MK35 makes really nice, well-sculpted figures in resin.  Several female civilians:
www.mk35.com
Click 1/35 figures, then select civilians.  I've done one of these (shown in my 1/35 Auto Repair thread) and have a bunch of others ... really like the sculpting.  All the ones I've collected so far are the males.

I haven't seen these in person, but this set from MasterBox looks like a good source for a couple of civilized ladies:
http://www.mbltd.info/3514.htm
Those can be found on ebay and thru various military model dealers.

Legend Productions makes 1/35 pin-up girls:
http://www.www-legend.co.kr/02_fig01.html
I have the "Bathing Girl" -- crisp resin casting; inexpensive -- available from various dealers.

Additionally, searching ebay for "1/35 female" and "1/35 woman" in the toys & hobbies section helps locate these figures more easily than using a search engine.  That way, you can identify the makers and search for non-ebay vendors if desired.

Cheers,
Dallas
Cli

[eTraxx]

Bexley -- Want to second Dallas. That's a great link and tutorial.

Ray -- Want to second YOUR comment on that figure

Dallas -- Appreciate the links for the figures.

[narrowgauger]

Hi Gary

suggest you take a close look at the Alclad "hot metals" range  (www.alclad2.com)

these transparent laquers are absolutely perfect for your figure.

for anyone looking to paint exhausts on motorbikes, cars or anywhere that weathered hot areas occur on steel components this is the perfect solution.

Bernard

[gnichols]

Gang,
  Appreciate all your ideas.  I'll be trying some of them when I can.  Please keep them coming!  Gary