Foothill Model Works Flat Car Challenge

[marc_reusser]

Jerry,

The caboose is very nice.  I like the proportions and color a lot.

Marc

[marc_reusser]

Well, for me, the next step was the trucks...I always dread this part. It took about 3-1/2 hours of work to clean the mold seam lines from the MacLeod trucks. In the end I felt like I wanted  to poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick.....would have been about equally fun.

Below can be seen the sub-assemblies of the Macloed trucks, the and the FMW brake beams and levers, ready for primer/paint.




After more closely looking at the MSPCo. images I realized I needed to modify/add some things.

The MSP cars had 4 truss- rods, so in the interest of expediency I used 4 McLoed truss rod pads (instead of shaving 4 from another set of FMW needle-beams.)

Also noticeable on the MSP photos was the fact that they had a cross truss rod and blocking between the sills. The blocking was added using built-up strip styrene (The location of the blocking was determined by laying out the deck to locate the binder chain openings, and then determining the approx. block location. Fortuitously it landed at the intersection of the frame extension seams, and would help join the parts, as well as hide the seams.)



Because the MSP cars had a gap in the decking boards where the binder chains were fastened to the sills, and one would be able to see through to the sills below, I realized I needed to add some strip styrene to the FMW outer sills, so that the side sills would look like/match the new wider sill piece below.

Two additional  slots were milled into the bolster blocking at each end to accommodate the 2 additional truss rods.



Lastly the frame was jigged/clamped into the drill-press, and the holes for the cross tie-rods were drilled using a .020 drill bit

In this view one can also see the McLoed "Carter Brothers Teardrop Bolster Bolts" that were added.



The deck was cut from Mt. Albert stripwood. The decking is scale 2x12's, while the "log bunks" are scale 6x12's. The pices were cut on a NWSL chopper, and "batch sanded" to final size.

Graining was achieved with a #11 Xacto, a Micro-Mark wire pencil, a M-M fiberglass pencil, and some 400 grit sandpaper

Staining was done using  a variation of Chuck Doans method by adding washes of Windsor Newton "Burnt Umber" water color, "Paynes Grey" Guache, prior to and following, the rubbed/acetone washed Bragdon's powders. The image has a bit more of a green tint than the boards actually have). Not completely sure how I feel about the results, but it will have to do.




Next step(s)...primer and paint...and making some of the detail parts.

Marc

[Belg]

Marc Jerry, you guys are both doing some excellent work! Marc, I really enjoy watching how you methodically work thru your solution, I "assume" you must use some extensive research to be able to get even such tiny detail as you show for the truss rod guides. Do you find most of these on the internet or in your own collection of photographs? I would really like to pick your brain on how you organize such a large collection, I have tons of bookmarks and pics but it usually takes me ten minutes to find what I need or else I give up before finding it and get frustrated.
I model in HO and have trouble finding a balance between adding texture to my wood and when I use some 400-600 grit to defuzz, then loose alot of the texture I worked so hard to put in, I have tried doing it deeper but then my 1x stock either breaks or shreds when cleaning the fuzz. Could you tell or show me any special little steps that helped you?  Thanks so much, Pat

[TRAINS1941]

Jerry

Like the caboose color came out real nice.

Marc

Thanks for taking us step by step to the finished product certainly is a lot to be learned from you guys.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jerry....I am actually just sort of winging this one along. I want to see if I can actually build it in 3-4 evenings/days at the bench (not including weathering), so I am kind of "fudging"/simplifying some things in the spirit of expediency.

Jerry  is truely the "king of the Jigs"...and  I think Marty is working hard to catch him. 

Marc

[marc_reusser]

..... I "assume" you must use some extensive research to be able to get even such tiny detail as you show for the truss rod guides. Do you find most of these on the internet or in your own collection of photographs? I would really like to pick your brain on how you organize such a large collection, I have tons of bookmarks and pics but it usually takes me ten minutes to find what I need or else I give up before finding it and get frustrated.
Pat

Hi Pat...good to hear from you again.

Kind of a difficult question to give an absolute answer....but here goes.....

The 28' flatcar build is a bit of an abbreviated process of the below....but the general steps for more thorough models are as follows.

A lot depends on what the subject matter is, and where I happened to have found the image that was the inspiration.
I like you have hundreds of bookmarks, however, I found that I rarely use them...takes too long, and I can't remember what each one contains anyhow...even though I have many of them organized in "topical" folders. 

Often my first steps are numerous different searches using the Google "image" search.....I clip and save any relevant, informational,and inspirational images on the PC, in a specific folder, pertaining to that subject/model. (these searches may take several hours, using various search terms).  [ I also frequently go back during the build, and do more image searches relating to specific details, and/or weathering effects.]

The next step, if I know/think I have applicable info, is go through my library of books, catalogs, photos, and xerox or scan any relevant info.  At this point I also go through my binders of previous reference images (will explain the binders in a minute). I will also go back to these during the build, to see if I can get additional info if/where needed.

Lastly but by far not the least, I am very fortunate to have a great resource of very knowledgeable guys in my fellow TNGS members....between them they have a large depth and breadth of prototype and modeling, and fabrication knowledge, that they are rarely at a loss for information (or opinion ), or pointing me in a direction, (unless it comes to my armor and european industrial stuff  ) Many of them also each have their own library or archive of books, photos and data that they will readily share......and they will give me an honest, critcal and forthright comentary of what I have done, or am planning on doing.

....now...the binders....

When I finally sit down to start a project, I will have printed out numerous pages of the most applicable images/copies/scans I have compiled in the above steps.....I will keep these at my work bench to refer to for reference as I am building/painting/weathering....I may even tape one or two to the back of the bench for easy quick reference, or inspiration. ..........these paper copies/print-outs then will eventually all end up in a series of binders with sim copies/prints, from previus projects, projects that never materialized, or things that I thought were of interest or might some day be of use. [I do have a laptop next to my workbench that I could of course store all this "tree-ware" on and use that way, but it is not the same as having a print version in front of you that you can scrutinize, write on, compare with another image, and lay right in front of you, as you work.]

One important note/point I make here with all the info I use.....

I will rarely use images of other peoples work/models for reference (unless they are the likes of Chuck Doan, Adam Wilder, Jan Peters, and some others of sim ilk)....If youuse another persions model as refernce, you are usding their "interpretation" of the original as reference, rather than the original itself,...and in order to "understand" what is going on you really need to follow the "original" rather than another modelers "interpretation" there-of.....that does not mean you cannot/should not, use/try their techniques for acheiving certain effects/details.....but you need to look at the "original" to see how/where, and most importantly why to apply a certain detail/finnish/effect.


Hope that is a little help.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

  ....have to fess up, I noticed that I made a mistake in my rush to assemble. Because of the deeper side sills and thus the deeper needle-beams, the brake rigging ros need to pass "through" the needle-beams.....well, in order to do so they needed to have slots milled into them.....so....having forgotten to mill these slots before gluing the needle-beams securely in place....so i now have to figure out a way to cut these slots neatly and cleanly, with the beams in place. 

Marc

[marc_reusser]

Before I went back to work this evenig , I shot the log car frame and trucks with primer....this is both on of my my favorite and most dreaded moments...it's great, because it is the first time all the messy different colors of parts and castings go away, and the true unified lines of the car begin to show (i often have considered just leaving stuff in primer, because i like the elegant simplicity of this look....sort of like the old "photo grey-washed" loco and railcar photos that manufacturers and builders used to use.)....the bad part is it shows up all the areas that need work.  .......though in all honesty deep down I do like this part also, because it shows me how well or poorly I have done.

Upon examination of the primered car it became evident that a couple of the seams vertical seams/joints on the side sills needed a bit of spot putty.....and the long horizontal seam on the extended side sill needed some filling in areas....unfortunately two of these ran right through the tear-drop bolster nuts  ....I had actually debated leaving these off till after this point in the build, but my rush to progress got the better of me at the time.

I have done the filling where needed with Tamia "Basic" putty, and will set the frame aside for a week or so, to completely let the putty cure, and any other seams to possibly show-up and/or telescope through the primer. By that time the putty should have done any and all of shrinking, and after sanding, I should end up with the finished surface I am after.


In the meantime I will order some tools from Micro-Mark that will hopefully help me drill the brake rod slots, and I may even build another car....I have an idea for a 20'x4'6" car like the one used by Molino Timber Co.
(Molino was 30" gauge....for expediency though I may build it as 24" gauge using some parts I already have.........or if I truly feel up to it, I amy try to scratch the steel truck frames from styrene in 30")

Marc

[marc_reusser]

Pat,

Give me a day or so to get back to you on the second part of your question re. the wood.

Marc

[jacq01]

I will rarely use images of other peoples work/models for reference (unless they are the likes of Chuck Doan, Adam Wilder, Jan Peters, and some others of sim ilk)....If youuse another persions model as refernce, you are usding their "interpretation" of the original as reference, rather than the original itself,...and in order to "understand" what is going on you really need to follow the "original" rather than another modelers "interpretation" there-of.....that does not mean you cannot/should not, use/try their techniques for acheiving certain effects/details.....but you need to look at the "original" to see how/where, and most importantly why to apply a certain detail/finnish/effect.

Marc,
you very well describe the process how to derive at a personel interpretation of the model in question. I look often in admiration at work from other modelers and become influenced by their work in my imagination of the model(s) I am planning.
This is a stage in modeling, at least for me, that is determined by the fact that a subject is not fully understood. I want to get an mental view of it and the quickest way to that is the work of those modelers that I see as a sample.... Chuck, Gordon, your work, Pendon, etc.
As soon as confidence is growing and I have grasped the "spirit", I start following my own path and the "binder" reference, including work of others,  is very little used any more except for factual information.

Jacq

[Belg]

Marc, alot of excellent tips already in your first post some things I did not consider before, I usually have two or three shots that I will attach to a piece of cardboard hung from my modeling light, I guess you could call this my quick and dirty reference and should be alot more thoroughly researched.
Look forward to the info on the wood please don't rush I'll wait til you have the time to fully feel like your answer is the best you can make it. I expect nothing less from you since that is the standard you model to. Thanks again , Pat

[lab-dad]

I have been dreading fabricating the ladders for my FHMW challenge car.
Well I finally quit whining and got busy.
The first attempt failed miserably, but it was all wrong anyway.
To do it right I figured I had to use .032 x .016 strip for the sides and .020" for the rungs. The LHS didn't have .020 so I used .016 - a better size IMO.
I drilled six .018" holes in each of the sides on .300" centers.
Inserted the .016 rod in them and soldered it up.
The top of the ladder is just like the proto so I am now satisfied.
These were a royal pain in the ass, and I still have one more to assemble.
Boy this O scale stuff is tiny <grin>
-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

-MJ

I see you made it back!  Awesome job I wish I had your patience and talent.
Just keep up the good work all you guys Marc, Jerry & MJ there is so much to learn from you guys.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

Brass Show-off. 

Marc

[Chuck Doan]

Beautiful work, Marty! Man, don't bump that!