RS-3 narrow gauge conversion

[finescalerr]

Nonetheless an Aristo-Craft product might never look as good. -- Russ

[Ray Dunakin]

I got the superstructure (cab and hoods) painted. Still have to add lettering, then weather it. Once that's done, I can install the "glass" in the windows:




The main color is Rustoleum Gloss Enamel burgandy. The handrails and pilots will be "school bus yellow", using Rustoleum's "inverted marking paint".
The steps and deck are gloss black:

 

 
I used 1/24th scale diamond treadplate for the steps and deck. I got this from Don Mills Models. Here's a link in case anyone's interested:

http://www.donmillsmodels.com/main/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_new.tpl&product_id=183&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=73

That's all for now.

[Ray Dunakin]

Here's another brief update...

On the real RS-3, there are chains connecting the brake wheel with the brake cylinders on the rear truck. The chains pass through a couple of guides that hang down from the underside of the deck. I added these details to my model. I had to make sure that the truck would still be able to turn enough to handle my 6.5' minimum diameter curves. Here's how it looks prior to painting:




I'm getting closer to the finish line!

[NORCALLOGGER]

Beautiful finish and detail work Ray, you have several Atttaboys comming on this one.
I especially like the chain hanger details.
Rick

[finescalerr]

Don't forget the antlers. -- Russ

[jacq01]

  Russ,

  as Chester mentioned a time back discussing antlers, diesels have horns.  and Ray's loco shows 2 large ones 

  Jacq

[Ray Dunakin]

I got the handrails done for the front pilot. I just need to make a couple of minor adjustments, then duplicate it for the rear pilot. The straight uprights were made same as the ones along the side, using carbon fiber rod with a thin styrene strip laminated to it. The angled uprights were a challenge. I couldn't get any brass strips in the correct size, so I ended up using 3/32" aluminum tube, and flattened it with a hammer:

 

 


I also need to adapt some couplers.

[finescalerr]

What a vast improvement over the stock hardware! -- Russ

[JESTER]

Wow! Just went through all 4 pages. That's a lot of work. Great job!

-

[Ray Dunakin]

I haven't had a lot of time to work on this project lately, due to getting ready for Christmas, etc. But I have made a little progress...

First off, I got everything painted. The deck and underframe is painted Rustoleum gloss black. The pilots and the sides of the deck are painted "school bus yellow", and the cab and hoods are burgandy. I added the herald, engine number and some "high voltage" signs, all of which were printed out on self-adhesive vinyl.

Then I started on the weathering. Here's a shot of how it looks so far. (The handrails along the sides have been left off at this time, and the cab/hoods are not yet weathered.)




I'm using flat Apple Barrel craft acrylics for the weathering except where noted. I applied a thin, blotchy wash of dark brown to the deck, with a few blotches of lighter, rustier brown, mostly down the middle of the walkways where there would be more wear.

I began weathering the pilot and steps by brushing on some dark brown "rust" areas to represent places where the paint has been scratched or worn off -- mostly along edges, and on the handrails. When this had dried, I dry-brushed some highlights to represent bare metal, using a mix of Model Master "gun metal" and "steel" non-buffing metalizer.

Then I went over the whole thing with a thin wash of dirty, rusty brown. This wash had some clear acrylic matte medium mixed in, and a tiny dab of liquid detergent to prevent beading on the glossy surface. When applying the wash to the front of the pilot, I held the model so that the front would be almost level, preventing the paint from running off. However, I did allow some of the paint to build up along the bottom edge. It still needs some more work, but here's how it looks now:




I did the same thing along the side of the deck, adding some extra rust color to certain areas and allowing it to run down in streaks. This too, still needs more work.




The trucks had been weathered already, but I decided they needed something more. I wanted to add some caked on dust and dirt, which would be typical on an engine that runs in the desert and works around mines and mills. To do this, I used some ashes from our barbecue. First I applied a mix of grimy colored paint and matte medium, with a dab of detergent. Then I sprinkled on the ashes, and blew off the excess. I went over it again with some more of the grimy paint mix to wet the ashes thoroughly.




I gave this same treatment to the back of the pilot as well as the fuel and air tanks, keeping in mind the way these features would most likely accumulate such dust and grime.




On the fuel tank, I added several successive layers of thin, dusty washes to represent build up of spilled fuel and dirt. Then I topped it off with a narrow "dribble" of muddy black paint mixed with gloss medium, to look like a recent spill:



The fuel cap was painted with Model Master "brass" metalizer, then given a wash of grimy black. I may give it another layer or two of grime.

That's all for now, more later. Merry Christmas!

[Scratchman]

Good job Ray.That's a nice looking engine.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[NORCALLOGGER]

Well done Ray, very well done.
I particularily like the "grime" buildup using the ashes.
Rick

[lab-dad]

Coming along lovelt Ray,
I have always loved the RS locos.
The weathering is progressing quite well also.
May be some darker "chips" using the Vallejo leather brown and a very small brush?
The darker color will add some depth to some of the chips.
Keep up the good work!
-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

Ray

Very nice. 

Jerry

[Ken Hamilton]

That's a really nice piece of work, Ray.  Beautifully weathered....Just enough.
Superb job!!