how to paint wood to look like metal

[Belg]

Well guys the title says it all, any tips or how tos would be much appreciated, Pat

[finescalerr]

Seal it, sand it, prime it, paint it. -- Russ

[chester]

Pat, this fellow is pretty good at it and offers some tips. Got this link from a discussion in the 'Cars, Trucks and other vehicle' section here.
http://insanemodelbuilder.blogspot.com/

[lab-dad]

Why?
Wouldn't it be better to use another construction material that better represents metal to begin with?
Or am I missing something?
-Marty

[Belg]

Guys, thanks for the replies. I will experiment with some of the scrap material.
Chester that guy takes wood carving/finishing to a whole new level.
Marty the reason is that I'm prebuilding a kit and have been asked to use only what comes in the kit. Pat

[danpickard]

Hey Pat,
Is it a small 1:48 wagon kit...

I think Russ's steps were about right.  Even go a bit heavy on the paint to fill the grain, and then lightly sand back to a smooth finish. 

The other option (this works best if the metal is for something like a panel insert, not a complete side), is cover the wood panel with a really fine paper (check in the craft shop scrap-booking section next time you go out shopping).  The paper should be thin enough not to affect the assembly process, and has a suitable flat surface ready for final finish.

Dan

[Belg]

ding ding dingwe have a winner, Dan I guess someone has been talking to John. Guys I remember reading a tip once about using ca on the wood to seal it, I guess this would like adding a few coats of sealer. Does this ring a bell with anyone? Pat

[Ray Dunakin]

I've used CA as a sealer on wood before.

[danpickard]

Gordon mentioned using the CA as a sealer on the timber frames he uses with his loco builds.

Dan

(yes Pat, I have "connections"... )

[Belg]

guys, thanks alot for the hints I have tried several of the methods and the ca sealer has to be my favorite. The pieces though are so small its was more of an exercise than any actual results.

Dan, do you know if John checks his emails regularly? I have reached out and have gotten no replies. Pat

[finescalerr]

Do you guys use a slower drying CA or something really typical with a consistency and drying time like Superglue? Sounds like a good technique. I assume you can smooth it with sandpaper after a few minutes? -- Russ

[Ray Dunakin]

I usually use the thick CA, and in most cases I hit it with a squirt of accelerator spray.

[danpickard]

Pat,
I thought John was normally pretty quick to make email responses, especially with the "business" related questions.  I'll forward the query to his private email, but the gmail account with their website should get you a response...

outbackmodels@gmail.com

Dan

[gin sot]

I usually use thin CA for sealing wood and don't bother with accelerator.  It soaks deeply into the wood and really plasticizes it thoroughly.  

Can't see why the thick stuff wouldn't work, though.

[marc_reusser]

For the product design models and pieces made from wood, we used to use a catalyzed primer callled "Prestec"....it was basically a grey primer, activated by a small ammount of mixed in catlyst, that when sprayed on and dry, filled all the cells and grain...it sanded like normal primer, and allowed you to produced a perfectly smooth surface...so smooth you could see any form/shape inconsistancy when you later shot it with gloss lacquer.

The stuff is so cool that you could even shoot it over the green hard cell foam (sim to that Balsa Foam stuff)...and get a glass smooth surface on it. (no you cannot spray it over the blue/pink or styro foams....it will eat it away in seconds)

I think you can still find the primer at any good auto-body paint/supply shop (though probably only in states that have laxer EPA laws than California......but since your near New Jersey, you should have no problem at all finding it )


Marc