Tractor Loco

[Krusty]

Well it took all darn day on Sunday, but I finally got 5 sleepers made for the sectional metal track piece.

Kewl. Those are by far the most realistic models I've seen of pressed sleepers.

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Krusty.

Here some progress pics before I head out for a bike ride.

The next step was to add the scenery material. I wanted to keep it simple, and imply a dry dusty quarry feel.
For the material I used Arizona Rock Company's "River Bottom" material/gravel.

To apply the gravel, a thin coat of the tinted modeling paste was brushed onto the base, which was then sprinkled with the gravel material. the base was then tapped to level/distribute/remove the excess. A pair of tweezers, and my finger were then used to prod and remove the gravel till I achieved the desired appearance. A 60/40 solution of water and Liquitex matte medium were then dripped evenly onto the material using a syringe, and allowed to "wick" through the gravel material till it was all damp.

Once dry the gravel was given a base wash of thinned Tamiya "Medium Grey" (XF-20), this was then followed multiple thinned washes and thinned surface brushing (sim in concept to "dry brushing") of various mixed shades of Tamiya "Deck Tan" (XF-55), and "Buff" (XF-57).

Once dry the area was given a spot dusting of Bragdons "Dust Bowl Tan" powder.

(The coloring in this photo is a bit "spottier" than the actual piece...don't know why.)



This image of a test sample shows on the left, the Arizona Rock Co material as it look straight from the bag; and on the right after washes with the Tamiya Acrylics and the application of the Bragdon's powder.



Marc

[HectorBell]

Being an undersupplied Brit, I don't know what Bragdens is, but I always use oil pastels ground up on fine sandpaper.  There's a vast range and it's very cheap.  Marc, those tin sleepers (ties) look very convncing, especially with the damage built in.  They were very common in UK.  Hudsons made them for the kinds of lines where the layout was changed constantly to reach different parts of the brick fields, etc.  Had one right near where I used to live.  I'd assumed it was disused when driving down the lane next to it (a local knowledge short cut) when this filthy old Lister loco nearly ran me down with a train of Hudson tubs full of tile clay!  When I went back for a recce, the damned company had indeed closed down and sold all the tin sleepers and the train for scrap. Doh!
Hector

[TRAINS1941]

Marc

Thanks for how to on the screnery your work is just getting better, and not with one faucet of the hobby but in all fields of expertise.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jerry ...but it really is almost all just a new experiment to me.

I took a day-off today, so I got to model  .

The tractor seat assembly was made using a modified McKenzie Iron & Steel white metal seat casting, formed and drilled brass strip, and Tichy .020 rivets. The seat was colored using Floquil "Roof Brown" (from a spray can), when dry, the seating surface was rubbed with MIG "Gun Metal" (#P231) pigment.



The exhaust was made using Evergreen .050 and .125 styrene rod. The top/end was drilled out and thinned.



Coloring and texturing of the exhaust was done using Bragdons "Rust" pigment set, and Plastruct liquid adhesive. A short cut bristle brush is dipped into the liquid cement, and then immediately into the pigment, which is then stippled onto the styrene. This is repeated with slightly varied mixes of color, until the entire part is colored/covered.



The rails, fastener clips, and bolt heads were now added to the ties.
Originally I had thought that due to different steel types and manufacture, the steel rail would weather to a different rust color/hue than the pressed steel ties/sleepers, but upon careful research of prototype photos, they all showed the rails and sleepers the same color.

The rail was sprayed with Floquil "Roof Brown" (from a spray can). While the paint was still wet, the sides were sprinkled with varied hues of rust toned pigments. The rail pieces were allowed to dry and the excess pigments brushed and blown off. The pigment that remained adhered to the paint, provided a nice subtle texture.

Once the rails were fastened a graphite pencil wes run along the tops to give a worn steel color. Lastly the rails were dusted with some Bragdons "Dust Bowl Tan" pigment.



The last step was to paint the display base. The top edge was outlined with Tamiya "Flat Black" (XF-2) using an 0/5 brush. The top was then masked, and the rest of the sides were sprayed using Tamiya "Flat Black" from a spray can (TS-). The reason for using the can was for ease of use, and the fact that I wanted a slight satin finish to the base. The Tamiya spray colors always seem to dry slightly satin, so using this save me from having to spray an additional clear satin coat.)



The last part I have to build is the new fuel tank.....

Marc

[finescalerr]

Adequate work, Marc. Very adequate. -- Russ

[John McGuyer]

Marvelously adequate !cnU. Marvelously!

John

[jmartin]

Damn that is some fine modeling.  I am always in awe of the work you and others on this forum can do.  Simply amazing.

John

[marc_reusser]

Thanks John...and John,

It's been a fun excercise. I finmally found/cobbled together a gas tank, and new mounts. I need to paint the mounts, and try to figure out what color to paint the tank. 



Marc

[marc_reusser]

Well I finally got the new tank done and mounted...whew....now just some more small cab details, and then its ready for pre-dusting with Guache.






Marc

[Belg]

Marc, work continues to inspire!! I thought GAUCHE was a paint type material how do you "dust" with it? Pat

[marc_reusser]

Hi Pat,

Dusting (or "Pre-dusting", depending on your approach and step sequence) is done with the airbrush. So the Guache will get heavilly thinned with water, and shot at a higher pressure, so to give a very fine mist. I will use a #1/fine needle in the airbrush and build the effect up in thin layers.

This is ususally/most commonly done with thinned acrylics, as Guache has an inherent quality of "re-activating" when any water based paints is applied over it.......however, this same "reactivation issue, can also be used to manipulate the paint on surfaces with a damp/wet brush, to hary effects, and build up material in areas.

The reasons for me trying the Guache, is that it dries to an absolutely dead and dusty flat, and it provides an interesting surface finish/quality for the oil staining step.

Marc

[Belg]

So Marc, if I understand you correctly once the gauche is under the acrylic paint it can be manipulated to create rust and other paint effects? Can this be used as a sort of resist to create chipping paint like rubber cement?
I'll be very anxious to see your results, Pat

[marc_reusser]

Pat, the guache pre-dusting/dusting is the last coat of any water based paint to go on. (otherwise it will reactivate the guache, and potentially cause a mess)...it is fine to reactivate the guache for specific effects......but you dont want it reactivating when you are trying to acheive say "rain marks".


The next/current steps I am doing are:

Rain Marks (with Acrylic, by brush))
Pre Dusting (with Guache, by airbrush)
Dusting with pigments and pigment fixer for built-up areas of pigment (IE. Inside corners and such)
...then if necessary, maybe a final dusting with Guache (by Airbrush)
worn/polished Steel edges/surfaces
Oil Marks

...and lastly one last go around for maybe some "fresh" chips", and some additional "Fresh" rusting...but that will need to be seen.

Marc

[marc_reusser]

Well...I changed my mind about using Guache for the dusting, because I had 3 other projects to do, that I could do at the same time, however, the needed it to be in acrylic.....so I decided to do this one as well.

Light rain marks were done using thinned Tamiya "Deck Tan" (XF-55). Dust/dirt was then done by airbrushing a mixture of 50/50 mixture of Tamiya "Deck Tan" (XF-55) and "Buff" (XF-57)., this was then thinned to a ratio of 80% thinner to 20%paint, and applied in multiple layers at the lower edge of the side and end frames, on horizontal surfaces, and in corners where dust would collect. When dry some the side frames were given a very light, highly diluted pin wash of a Life-Color brown. Lastly  a light dusting with mix of "Dust Bowl Brown" and "Ash" Bragdon's powders was applied to various areas and corners.





Next step will be to add in a few new chips and scratches in the dust areas, and then do the oil staining. Lastly will be adding the remainder of the detail parts.


This is one of the other "drawer orphan" projects that needed dusting, and was done in the same manner (but no rain marks). After dusting, some additional "mapping" was done on the rust areas using Life Color acrylics.




Marc