shingles & shakes (retitled from "would this")

[Philip Smith]

Would this roof leak? I say yes because of the lack of half bonding. What's your opinion?

thanks, Philip

[NORCALLOGGER]

They seem to be very poorly laid and would probably let water through.
Wheather the roof would actually leak or not would depend heavily on the type and quality of the underlayment.
I suspect this picture is of a model so the water damage would be minimal.
Rick

[Philip Smith]

Rick, I'd say 1x purlins for that era, spaced wide enough to nail them down. Not my work but I agree with you. 2 or3 in a row with verticals lining up is a recipe for leakage.

more buckets please........

thanks!   

[marc_reusser]

The areas with lined up gaps would definitely be an issue. I can't tell from the photo whether the cap/ridge planks are properly lapped in relation to each other (it was common to see one plank lapped a bit past the face of the other at the ridge joint/seam...I would guess 1/2" or so. I have even in some instances seen this taken to the extreme with a lap of up to 2+ inches. I would guess the reason for this was likely to slightly shelter the seam, so that when the lapping board shrank, or seperated, it would still somewhat shelter the gap/seam.)

Marc

[Mr Potato Head]

the answer is No it wont leak!
Why you ask? becasue it doesent rain in your layout!
MPH
Ask a simple question? get a simple answer : - )-)

[shropshire lad]

Yes , it would leak and it also looks crap .Everything about it is wrong and who ever built it wants to scrap it and do it again properly . Sorry if I've offended anyone here but to me the whole roof looks dreadful .

   Nick

[danpickard]

Hmmm, Phillip, I think I know where that roof comes from too....

Nick, best stay on this side of the forums.  That type of decent honesty may not be as well received where this model is taking shape. If it makes you feel any better, some of the other elements of the model aren't too bad (he has been listeneing to helpful advice, and the modelling has improved, which is the main thing), but I think you were fairly correct with your in depth analysis of this particular roof 

With the current state of that roofing job though, it would lend the mill engine uder it to a few more rust streaks and water damage I would be thinking...

Cheers,
Dan

PS; Phillip, can we leave it in your hands to report back to the other guys with the good news...

[finescalerr]

I agree with Nick. -- Russ

[Philip Smith]

I recently built a structure from a laser kit company and the shingles seemed to be manufactured in such a way that they always bonded incorrectly when rolled out of the strip. The vertical space would always line up every 3 or 4 shingles. It was maddening and made the entire roof job a dreadful task. I ended up scabbing/cutting the shingles in order to correct the bond issues.

Has anyone ever used real shingles scratch cut from a builders shim pack? I bet that making your own would eliminate all the issues discussed with these pre-manufactured laser shingles.

Philip

[Malachi Constant]

Has anyone ever used real shingles scratch cut from a builders shim pack? I bet that making your own would eliminate all the issues discussed with these pre-manufactured laser shingles.

Philip

Well, I've used those to level a workbench ...  but that wasn't really the question, eh? 

The very, very tip of the thinnest shims might be useful ... but seems like it would be easier to get a chunk of cedar (or whatever) and a good, old-fashioned hand plane ... experiment with getting the right depth for the desired thickness and have at it.   I haven't actually tried this for roofing, but it hasn't been too long since I took down an interior door and planed the bottom to clear a new carpet ... the shavings looked "interesting" from a modeling perspective.  Cheap to make too!  Oh ... added benefit ... if you can use all the wood shavings for modeling, you don't have to vacuum after your carpentry ... just sweep 'em up and put them in a shoebox.   

Oh, and I've seen discussion not too long ago of using some disposable cedar wraps that are used for grilling food.  Haven't seen them in person, so dunno about the actual thickness of those ... wood plane allows control there.

Cheers,
Dallas

[james_coldicott]

Also, is it me or is the grain running across the shingles? A shame because it is neat work but lacking knowledge of how the prototype works.

J

[Philip Smith]

Has anyone ever used real shingles scratch cut from a builders shim pack? I bet that making your own would eliminate all the issues discussed with these pre-manufactured laser shingles.

Philip

Well, I've used those to level a workbench ...  but that wasn't really the question, eh? 

The very, very tip of the thinnest shims might be useful ... but seems like it would be easier to get a chunk of cedar (or whatever) and a good, old-fashioned hand plane ... experiment with getting the right depth for the desired thickness and have at it.   I haven't actually tried this for roofing, but it hasn't been too long since I took down an interior door and planed the bottom to clear a new carpet ... the shavings looked "interesting" from a modeling perspective.  Cheap to make too!  Oh ... added benefit ... if you can use all the wood shavings for modeling, you don't have to vacuum after your carpentry ... just sweep 'em up and put them in a shoebox.   

Oh, and I've seen discussion not too long ago of using some disposable cedar wraps that are used for grilling food.  Haven't seen them in person, so dunno about the actual thickness of those ... wood plane allows control there.

Cheers,
Dallas

Yes Dallas... the tip of the shim You always make me smile.
I'm sure with a belt sander a pile could be made in short order. May just head to sinking creek lumber and conduct an experiment. Basically sand something to nothing. cut repeat....... typical on a scaled down version.

Philip 

[Malachi Constant]

That's a good way to make a helluva lot of sawdust, man!  Get a plane ... sharpen the blade ... slice it thin like crappy cold cuts ... no big mess to clean up.  -- Dallas

PS -- With the belt sander, once you've gone too far you've just converted a shim into a pile of sawdust.  With the plane, if you don't like the thickness you just reset the blade and make another pass.  Single piece of decent wood will give you a lifetime supply.  But, hey, if you wanna snort sawdust ... have fun with it!     

[Philip Smith]

Must use a belt sander to taper effectively...
exhibit 101
this is why those laser cut shingles suck.....they are the same thickness 
Philip

[Philip Smith]

I wonder how crazy this would be?  On a miniature level. It looks like RTV to me



here is a pretty good illustration.....note the taper, thin to top, start strip doubled, and alternate courses not aligning.