Feldbahnmodule with ship

[fspg2]

The U-bolt will be provided with a hole on the top to connect the pull rod certainly.
From 2mm sheet of brass a small drilling aid has been manufactured ...


Bohrhilfe_Buegel (fspg2)



...and was clamped vertically in a mini-vice. The U-bolt was inserted and secured with a 1mm rivet temporary. Using a small centering drill a 0.8 mm hole was drilled from above.
The 1.2 mm rod was turned off to 0.8 mm at one end and soldered into the drilled hole.


Feldbahn_Stellbock_DIN9939_02 (fspg2)



Instead of drawings a few pictures now!

U-bolt-3 (fspg2)



U-bolt-4 (fspg2)



U-bolt-6 (fspg2)



The first turnout switch is mounted to sample now  - present it remains only 8 more ☺

U-bolt-8 (fspg2)

[lab-dad]

All that beautiful precision machining and you went and left it out to get all rusty!
Nice job!
Such a simple little thing...............
-Marty

[finescalerr]

Most impressive. -- Russ

[Junior]

Fantastic work and great weathering too  ! I especially like the weathering of the ties.

Anders

[Chuck Doan]

Beautiful work as usual!

[fspg2]

@Marty, Russ, Anders, Chuck

Thanks for your friendly recognition!


Do you know that ...  a model part is half finished and waiting for the next soldering? 

So it happend me with the stairs for the old shed.

To recap, the steps were already drawn in Februar 2009


Alter_Lagerschuppen_307 (fspg2)



The tread support I had soldered in a small solder gauge in combination with the angle iron and two 0.5 mm rivets. The brass steps were finished ... also the ladder beams ... but nothing happend ...



Through the help of a friendly Buntbahner, I am equipped with a Resistance Soldering System– like this.

Today I tested the new device.

First it was milled a new hard paper soldering jig and all parts were placed.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_305 (fspg2)



At those points which should be soldered small pieces of 0.5 mm tin-solder were placed and soldering fluid were added with a brush.

With the left brass electrode I held the stair step down, the carbon electrode was pressed against the solder wire, now the foot switch was pressed .... after a few seconds the solder melted. Through the capillary action the soldering fluid crept into the clefts. After I let loose the pedal I just waited and kept the carbon electrode still lightly until everything was fixed.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_306 (fspg2)



After half an hour and 28 solder points I could sandblast the stairs.


Alter_Lagerschuppen_308 (fspg2)



Alter_Lagerschuppen_309 (fspg2)



There is a huge difference beetwen the Resistance Soldering System and the soldering iron:

No long heating-up of the soldeing rod.
It is heated only the point at which the soldering flux and the solder is placed.
Older soldered joints remain cold.
Short or long breaks are not a problem, the unit is cold, as long as the foot pedal is not depressed.

I'm really excited by my new Resistance Soldering System.

Frithjof

[5thwheel]

I have been using American Beauty resistance soldering equipment for many years.  I find it very helpful when doing delicate parts. Still I do use a torch and soldering iron when needed.  I am very interested in the soldering (paper?) That you are using to jig up the ladder.  Tell us more about it and where one might find some.

Bill Hudson

[lab-dad]

Those stairs are breathtaking!
I doubt if photographed in the right way ANYONE could tell it is a model.
Heck, I know if I was shown the photo above i could not tell it wasnt 1:1
I really need to invest in a resistance soldering tool.
-Marty

[Ray Dunakin]

Nice! Did you mill the tread texture into the steps? Or is it photoetched?

[Frederic Testard]

Fantastic stairs.

[fspg2]

@Bill
I use Pertinax and Hardpaper (look for Paxolin) https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Paxolin (in German: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hartpapier).
I buy remnants of laminated paper and Pertinax (about 3.00 € per kg) from a dealer for plastics.
You can´t use this material with a blowpipe. The flame will destroy the material.
It stinks and the fumes are not healthy!

@Marty
The resistance soldering equipment is the best purchase I did for my hobby.
My unit has been built by a friend. It is very similar like the American Beauty tools.
There is a discussion about self-building a resistance soldering tool at the German Buntbahnforum: http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=10850
Google translation: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10850

@Ray
The texture is photoetched.

@Frederic
I am glad that you like the stairs!

[michael mott]

Frithjof, Great work on the steps, reminds me of some that I made a while back.

Michael

[fspg2]

@Michael
Thank you for your compliment!

It's just been great that I can solder a big part together with a small part very quickly, without fear that already soldered parts separated again.
I have cleared up in the last days (holiday thank) and and I found a lot of things which cry to have contact to my new resistance soldering equipment.

It goes on with the bridge module. The lifting mechanism of the bridge on the principle Hotopp  (as shown here) should be explained in detail as well as the closing mechanism of the swivel gate in model.


Modul-Montage_005 (fspg2)




Modul-Montage_007 (fspg2)



Although not operated with real water, some belowground functions shall be on view through a hole in the module box.


Modul-Montage_008 (fspg2)

[fspg2]

Hello,

I wrote that I am thrilled by the resistance soldering system, closely located parts next to the soldering points remain untouched.

I wanted to try more precisely.

Heber_01 (fspg2)



For the visible part of the water lifter (explanation), I wanted to solder an auxiliary plate to another sheet.
Until now I had used always a metal angle for square alignment (of course, it has also withdrawn heat) - so I had to heat longer with the soldering iron - neighboring sites were cooled with toothpaste.

Now I was brave and took an old plastic triangel as a fence. With Tesakrepp everything was fixed .. and the resistance soldering system heated the right side ...


Heber_02 (fspg2)



... and the left side kept cool ...

Heber_04 (fspg2)



Heber_05 (fspg2)



The water lifter could be viewed during the demolition of the old Lauenburg sluice in 2006 precisely.



source: http://www.rondeshagen.com/Schleuse_in_%20Lauenburg.html



source: http://www.rondeshagen.com/Schleuse_in_%20Lauenburg.html


At the photos from 1901 you can recognize the position of the water lifter under the old lift bridge of Lauenburg (more information klick here).


Heber_08 (fspg2)

Copyright: Lauenburger Elbschiffahrtsarchiv


Heber_09 (fspg2)

Copyright: Lauenburger Elbschiffahrtsarchiv


By drawings (converted to scale 1:22.5) I could determine the sizes:

Heber_06 (fspg2)

source:Hellmich


Heber_07 (fspg2)

source: Hellmich


Now I look for an idea to turn a 6mm tube with a close radius, as shown in the photo below.
The sharp bend radius is already very tight. Tests with annealed copper wire and also with a filled brass tube could be bent at right angles (like here), however at this narrow radius 180Grad ...
Next, I'll heat up a plastic rod and bend ... Let's see if it works.
Prototyping for two parts would be the last solution (because of cost).


Heber_10 (fspg2)

Copyright: Lauenburger Elbschiffahrtsarchiv

[Ray Dunakin]

Very interesting!