Feldbahnmodule with ship

[Bernhard]

As always, perfect attention to detail.

Bernhard

[finescalerr]

I've seen worse. -- Russ

[fspg2]

The milled Pertinax gauge was modified a little - so I can dismantle everything more easily when soldered by pulling out the upper MDF plate.
The front 2.5mm x 2.5mm L-profiles are installed and for the most part soldered to the "boom lifting block".

Ausleger-Hebeblock 16 (fspg2)


Ausleger-Hebeblock 17 (fspg2)



I tried to bend the two rear cranked support struts to an angle of around 20° by sawing in a leg and soldering the saw edges.... it didn't look convincing. Simply bending them after annealing the bend was not successful either.

Ausleger-Hebeblock  06 (fspg2)



So the two 2.5mm x 2.5mm struts were quickly milled from 3.0mm MS58 material.

A small two-part Pertinax jig was used to drill the additional 1.0mm holes in the center of the vertical struts at the correct distance of 3.0mm from each other.

Ausleger-Hebeblock 18 (fspg2)



The two adjacent legs each have a thickness of 0.35mm. To position them securely in the milled 1.0 mm groove, I placed a 0.3 mm thick copper strip between them and adjusted the drill holes in the CAD accordingly.

Ausleger-Hebeblock 19 (fspg2)


Ausleger-Hebeblock 20 (fspg2)



The test assembly was passed, so that they (as well as the upper right L-profile) can be soldered.

Ausleger-Hebeblock 21 (fspg2)

[finescalerr]

Solving that problem probably took almost as much time as building the rest of the boom assembly. -- Russ

[Bernhard]

I am always impressed that you build the jigs and other aids with the same care as the actual model.

Bernhard

[fspg2]

@Bernhard
As the saying goes: "A chain is only as strong as its weakest link!"

If I had tried to drill the holes in the L-profiles freehand, the overall appearance would certainly have suffered.

With your gauge for bending the L-profiles, you've gone one better.

The boom of the crane should have been soldered last week, but sometimes little accidents happen.

I had milled a 0.15 mm deep V-groove into the 0.3 mm connecting gusset plates between the two upper and the 2.5 mm lower L-profiles at the bending edges. 
I soldered a cross beam to the two front L-profiles with two 0.3mm gusset plates (see also the first picture in my last post). The two rear-facing L-profiles were aligned with these bending edges towards the "lifting block".
I bent the left L-profile back a little too much - the result was a break at this bending edge.
If I were to solder this part back on at the broken edge, I would certainly not have achieved sufficient stability in the long term.


Quer-Traverse neu 01 (fspg2)



So the cross beam with the two gusset plates was unsoldered again and two new gusset plates were drawn, which, enlarged by the green area, now also secure the L-profiles going to the rear.

Quer-Traverse neu 02 (fspg2)


Quer-Traverse neu 03 (fspg2)



The 0.8 mm holes in the gusset plates now help when subsequently drilling the rivet holes in the L-profiles.
 
Quer-Traverse neu 04 (fspg2)



I will now make one last attempt to get more information about the Münzel crane.

Otherwise I will continue to build a crane similar to the original, including various pictures of other cranes from the port of Hamburg.
I recently received two beautiful books with a number of harbor crane scenes from 1870 to 1970. Both give a fascinating insight into times long past.
You can find a reading sample here and here!

[Bernhard]

Such repairs were probably not unusual on the prototype either. In my collection of original drawings of the Hulett ore unloader, there are several that show repairs, reinforcements or improvements to the existing machines.

Bernhard

[fspg2]

In order to connect the eyelet of the boom spindle to the movable boom, two bolts must be soldered together at the correct angle.


Ausleger-Hebeblock 25 (fspg2)


They consist of several pieces of pipe soldered together.

Bolzen_Auslegerblock 26 (fspg2)



To do this, I first soldered two thin-walled tubes (6.0/5.5 and 5.5/5.0) together. A 1.0mm MS58 remnant served as a holding plate when cutting through this piece of tube.


Bolzen_Auslegerblock 27 (fspg2)


The soldered unit was inserted into a 6.0 mm deep groove in the MDF board and fixed in place with four small screws.  A 1.4mm milling cutter created the 7° angle.
 

Bolzen_Auslegerblock 28 (fspg2)



Two further pieces of pipe (5.0/4.5 and 4.5/4.0) were then pushed into each other and soldered together with the flame.
The resulting tubes were then soldered together in the same way. On the lathe, the pipes still protruding on the angle side were cut off according to the drawing.

Bolzen_Auslegerblock 29 (fspg2)



To check this, I inserted the two parts together with a 4.0 mm silver steel rod into the "boom block".

Bolzen_Auslegerblock 30 (fspg2)



The inner distance of 3.2 mm ensures the centered positioning of the 3.0 mm thick spindle eyelet.

Bolzen_Auslegerblock 31 (fspg2)

[finescalerr]

I never could have figured out how to do that. Inspirational. -- Russ

[Bernhard]

As is so often the case, the task seems simple. But perfect implementation requires a good idea and then a lot of time.

Bernhard

[fspg2]

@Russ

I never could have figured out how to do that. Inspirational. – Russ

Many ideas often come to me before I fall asleep in bed and are usually tried out the next day.

I had a bit of a headache connecting the 3.0 mm threaded rod to the eyelet for lifting the boom.

I had turned the threaded rod down from 4.0mm to 2.0mm. The eyelet had a corresponding 2.0mm mount.

Gewindestange mit Öse + Schutzrohr 03 (fspg2)


I wasn't sure whether a 0.8 mm hole next to the pinning with a brass wire and gluing with Loctite 648 would have withstood the lifting loads in the long term. The end of the threaded rod was already considerably weakened by the turning.

True to the motto "You can see better with the second one!" (Advertising on Second German Television (ZDF)), a new solution had to be found.

Now I wanted to use the thread and prepare the hole for a 3.0 mm tap in a new eyelet to be milled with a 2.5 mm ball cutter.


Gewindestange mit 0.8mm  Bohrung   01.gif (fspg2)


Gewindestange mit 0.8mm  Bohrung   02 (fspg2)



As with the first time, the two milled half-shells were soldered together and machined on the lathe.

A 3.5mm hole in an aluminum flat bar helped to prevent the soldering of the two half-shells from separating again during thread cutting.

Gewindestange mit 0.8mm  Bohrung   03 (fspg2)



Gewindestange mit 0.8mm  Bohrung   04 (fspg2)


The difference becomes very clear in comparison!

Gewindestange mit 0.8mm  Bohrung   05 (fspg2)

[Bernhard]

Yes, that looks more solid. The better is the enemy of the good.

Bernhard

[Ray Dunakin]

Impressive!

[fspg2]

It continues in small steps.

Getriebe_Ausleger_08 (fspg2)


In the original crane, an electric motor for driving the boom auger could have been housed in the mailbox-like structure.
In the model, two bevel gears will be hidden here. As the small box is only 12mm wide and 15mm high, I ordered some with module 0.4.
When they arrived four weeks later, I realized that I had selected 20 teeth instead of 12. Although I could have fitted these into the box, I would have had to do without the two 5.0/2.0 x 2.3mm ball bearings.

So I ordered a new one in the correct size.

Kegelzahnrad Modul 0,4 _01 (fspg2)



Here again the size comparison with 12 and 20 teeth, module 0.4 in each case.

Kegelzahnrad Modul 0,4 _03 (fspg2)


As the bore of these smaller bevel gears was only 1.0mm, I clamped them in a 4.0mm collet in the tailstock of the Emco Unimat 3 and drilled out the hole to 1.9mm in several stages. A 1.98mm reamer was used at the end.
 
Kegelzahnrad Modul 0,4 _02 (fspg2)


The box itself consists of four milled MS58 sheets. The two ball bearings are later glued into the inner wall and the base plate (each 2.0 mm thick).
The side walls are 1.0 mm thick. All panels have corresponding recesses.
Later, a removable, appropriately curved 0.3mm roof with inner supports will cover everything. This will allow me to adjust the bevel gears and grease them later if necessary.

Getriebegehäuse  01 (fspg2)



The inner wall was machined from two sides.  This is why there are four 2.0 mm aluminum rivets as a guide for the opposite side. 
Before the outer contour was milled in the last pass, I fixed the inner part through the previously milled hole in the inner wall so that it could not slip.

Getriebegehäuse  03 (fspg2)



Getriebegehäuse  04 (fspg2)


Getriebegehäuse  05 (fspg2)



The individual parts for the gearbox were fixed tightly in a 6.0 mm Pertinax jig so that everything could be soldered together at right angles.

Getriebegehäuse  06 (fspg2)



Next, the 2.5/2.0mm protective tubes are soldered in before everything is burnished and the ball bearings can be glued in.

Getriebegehäuse  07 (fspg2)

[finescalerr]

Most satisfactory. -- Russ