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Feldbahnmodule with ship

Started by fspg2, April 21, 2011, 12:42:16 AM

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WP Rayner

That is an excellent process for creating corrugated panels, well done. Definitely going to make an attempt to replicate your fixture for 1:48.
Paul

Stay low, keep quiet, keep it simple, don't expect too much, enjoy what you have.

fspg2

@ Paul

Good luck - please report about it!


In the meantime, I have punched all of the corrugated sheet metal appropriately for attachment to the roof battens. To do this, I milled grooves again on the milling machine and glued in round bars. This gave me precise positioning and counter pressure when drilling.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_95 (fspg2)



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_93 (fspg2)



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_94 (fspg2)




In addition, I made a few small experiments to give the corrugated iron sheets a little color.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_96 (fspg2)


The three plates above are used for practice and will be further maltreated.

Let's see how I get things rusted through ...
Frithjof

finescalerr


Barney

Well thought out workmanship - and so many ideas to help us all
Barney
Never Let someone who has done nothing tell you how to do anything
Stuart McPherson

Ray Dunakin

I tried something sort of like this but my method didn't work very well, and I had to go with a much more labor-intensive way to make corrugated sheet. But this is giving me some new ideas. I'll have to do some experimentation and see if I can adapt your technique using the limited tools I have.
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Hydrostat

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on March 20, 2021, 09:47:17 PM
I tried something sort of like this but my method didn't work very well, and I had to go with a much more labor-intensive way to make corrugated sheet. But this is giving me some new ideas. I'll have to do some experimentation and see if I can adapt your technique using the limited tools I have.

Ray, I don't want to hijack Frithjof's thread. I think there's a solution for limited tools as well; take a look here: http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.msg64925#new
I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.
I'll fly it. I'll make it.

The comprehensive book about my work: "Vollendete Baukunst"

finescalerr

That is more suited to my rudimentary skill set. -- Russ

fspg2

At the beginning of January 2017 I looked in vain for Plakafarbe no.25 (brick red).

According to information from Pelikan  this color has been removed from the range taken and should not be reissued.


Over the past few years I've tried Google every now and then ... always without success ... until recently. A dealer had, declared as a special item, two small glasses with the desired color. So ordered yesterday and received by DHL today - it was almost like Christmas, I can give a few parts of the wall the same color as the remaining parts.


Plaka_Ziegelrot_25_ (fspg2)


Among other things, the walls of the small locomotive shed and the border of the transfer platform will be treated with a paint roller after a gray primer - similar to the one shown
in the post from 07/14/2008 gezeigt.


The border of the transfer platform was re-milled with upright stones and should now see color.

Dreh-Schiebebuehne_98 (fspg2)



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_99 (fspg2)



It went a little further - albeit a little slower than I would like! My second cataract operated eye still has to get used to me a little. But it's getting a little better every day.



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_100 (fspg2)


All holes of the rafters and the roof battens were drilled with a 0.5mm drill on the router.

0.5mm wires prevented them from being pulled together by the moisture during the first pickling process.

Dreh-Schiebebuehne_101 (fspg2)



A polystyrene gauge was used to assemble the individual elements. Additional holes were drilled here to connect the rafter holes through the roof battens.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_102 (fspg2)


At first I drilled through the existing rafter holes with a 0.5mm drill (with a 1/8-inch shaft) into the roof battens underneath.
After the first drill, which was carefully turned by hand, broke off, I had taken a thinner "auxiliary rafter" as a drilling aid ... this drill also broke off very quickly :o

Fortunately I found some 0.5mm HSS drills with 0.5mm shank in a small, forgotten bag. Clamped into a pin block, all remaining holes could now be drilled without any further problems.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_103 (fspg2)



Then everything was pinned with short 0.5mm brass wires ...


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_104 (fspg2)



... and brought into the wood with light hammer blows. The wire got a little thick head.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_105 (fspg2)



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_106 (fspg2)



So that the superglue only bonds to the wood and not to the polystyrene gauge, the knot areas had a circular cutout in the gauge.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_107 (fspg2)



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_108 (fspg2)



As a test, the rafter framework was laid loosely.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_109 (fspg2)


There will be further aging with stain, pigments and various Prismacolor Premier-Farbstiften.

Frithjof

finescalerr


Ray Dunakin

I like your method of assembling the rafters!
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

fspg2

It got a little dirty:

Dreh-Schiebebuehne_110 (fspg2)


After superglue had been applied to the edges of the roof battens on both sides with a thin wire, I pressed the area briefly and forcefully and dusted it with tile mortar.

The resulting thickenings are later darkened even further and reflect the dirt accumulated there. However, it will only be visible on the front and rear long edges under the corrugated metal sheets on top.

You don't necessarily need a milling machine to build such gauges. Such aids can also be glued together using "boards" that have been sawn out accordingly. in the meantime there were only a few small steps, so the rails on the edge of the stage were soldered to an L-profile. Small gauges ensured the right-angled alignment.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_111 (fspg2)



The floor was also treated a little. As a basis I again applied Molto-Holz-Reparaturspachtel. It was made supple by adding a little water and pressed on the wooden surface with the fingers in a wavy manner. The advantage over plaster is the slight flexibility after drying. On the modules built in 2007, I haven't got any cracks or chipping on the edges or edges to this day.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_112 (fspg2)



A short rehearsal with the loosely laid tracks took place here.


Dreh-Schiebebuehne_113 (fspg2)



The floor of the shed was provided with several layers of earth, sand and stone meal one after the other.

Dreh-Schiebebuehne_114 (fspg2)



Each layer was sprayed with a landscape and construction adhesive that was unfortunately no longer available.


Alter_Lagerschuppen_200 (fspg2)



The advantage of this glue compared to wood glue is that all parts glued with it can be stained afterwards and the brightness of the color is retained after drying
:D
So much for today - the walls and tracks will still retain a number of signs of aging ...



Dreh-Schiebebuehne_115 (fspg2)

Frithjof

Bill Gill

#536
Excellent!
Do you know what type of material that discontinued landscape and construction adhesive was made of?  
It looks like it was perfect for staining areas that accidentally had some glue residue on them.

finescalerr

Outstanding, inspirational, and satisfactory. -- Russ

Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Hauk

Amazing! I´m always excited when I see that there is an update to this thread.

But this project is so complex I have totally lost track of how everything is supposed to go together in the final layout. Have you ever arranged all the components to show how everything fits together? I would love to see that picture.
Regards, Hauk
--
"Yet for better or for worse we do love things that bear the marks of grime, soot, and weather, and we love the colors and the sheen that call to mind the past that made them"  -Junichiro Tanizaki

Remembrance Of Trains Past