1/35 Paper Structure Vignette

[granitechops]

Quoting Marc, part ;-
The images I am using as reference and guide can be seen here. They are from a workshop area I photographed in Berlin last year.http://public.fotki.com/mreusser/berlin-workshops/   -: unquote

very intresting set of pics Marc
any idea of the age of those buildings? 1950s onwards additions to earlier ones perhaps?
some beautiful all in one plane work, at bottom of pic 5420 & top far leaf rendered in a rather different hand!!
maybe after the war a shortage of skilled brickies?
an interesting mix of bricks too looks like blue/black engineering bricks mixed with ordinary pressed clays as if a shortage caused a  recycle of whatever was available ( demolition of damaged buildings perhaps )
In pic 5441 looks like the brick pier for the doorway of unit no 10 is butted up to the side of unit 9 instead of being bonded in


I always find it as intriguing to work out why a building looks like it does

as to explain why a model turns out as it does when did not intend it to    
(Spurious history that is )  

[marc_reusser]

I always find it as intriguing to work out why a building looks like it does

I whole-heartedly agree!

Unfortunately I don't know anything about this little complex of buildings, But it is as you note likely from shortly after the war, and likely using salvaged bricks from the area.

The image below shows the general area in Berlin where the shops are:

A.) The shop complex
B.) The old Berlin main passenger terminal location (Destroyed during WW2, but a small portion of the entrance facade
    remains at the north end as a monument)
C.) This whole area was the main Berlin railway and freight yard (now mostly bombed, falling into decay or demolished
    [snuck in and took a few pics of buildings in there as well] there is apparently some kind of museum or such in
     there, but it was too late in the afternoon and all was locked and closed)
D.) The remains of two huge loco roundouses.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

Attached is a closer aerial view of the shop complex.

M

[granitechops]

Attached is a closer aerial view of the shop complex.

M

Thanks for that Marc

was just going to google Schoneberger Str.myself when  I saw your last post
so taking both those aerial shots together, I wondered if the shops, being right in the middle of 'railway country' were originaly used as stables,  many raiways used horses for deliveries, & yard shunting in the UK at least,
just speculation
and it would be too early for it to be a cluster of lock ups for private cars

[BKLN]

The weird angles in the structures certainly suggest that they were built along or around some tracks.

[rjdimaggio]

Ah fooey.... I would have liked a shot at some of that laser cutting...I'm just sayin..

[mad gerald]

G'day all,

just asked today to clerk at a local copy shop to punch some chip board strips (1mm) in the comb binding machine and collected the punched out pieces ... the two red pieces look quite interesting too ... seem to be some left overs in the tray.

Gonna try to build a small piece of brick wall the next days, but there still will be the problem with the bricks at the corner(s) ...  



EDIT: They measure about 8,4mm x 3,45mm, so in 1/35 scale they could be (or come close to) bavarian or old austrian bricks, regarding this compilation:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstein#Formate

Kind regards,

[mad gerald]

... just a short update due to a little progress:

I've chosen an arrangement similar to Marc's - not to copy his but to make the comparison easier ... even this is (or would be) 1/22,5 scale ...

The "bricks" would be to small for using them in 1/22,5 scale, but nevertheless it does not seem to bad/unproportional, does it? And I think Marc's solution regarding the "corner bricks" is far more better, because this chip board "bricks" out of the tray of a comb binding machine have all the same length - and therefore to be cut/parted by hand ... which turned out to be time consuming. Don't know either, if I'd manage to fill/close the gaps at the cuts of the "corner stones" (and make them "invisible") ...

[artizen]

This is how I am getting around corners.

[mad gerald]

This is how I am getting around corners.

... um, well ... a piece of cake ... with these 3-dimensional bricks (I use them normally too), but quite a tricky bit with these 2- (or 2 1/2) dimensional chip board "bricks" ... 

[mad gerald]

... well, here it is ...

After having glued the punched out "bricks" from the binding machine to the gray chip board I treated the gaps of the corner stones with ACC and sanded them afterwards. Then I coloured the whole thing with a mixture of acrylic paint, which turned out to be too brown-ish after having dried (so they appear more like clinker bricks) ...   ... followed by a coat of highly watered down watercolour of different shades.

At last I filled the joints/gaps around/between the bricks with real (tile) mortar, using Frithjof's above mentioned method ...

[nk]

they are some excellent looking bricks.

[artizen]

That looks good. It's nice to see someone else getting a slight wave in the brick courses! That's why I print a brick template onto adhesive address labels for a spacing guide.

The colours are good. Bricks come in all shades and it's good to see the odd broken brick and distressed edge etc.

[mad gerald]

That looks good ...

they are some excellent looking bricks.

... thx guys ...  

Sorry just in case of bothering you (again), but here's the last one on this ...

The bricks and the tile mortar are covered by a layer of Humbrol clear coat, followed by a randomly application of artists pastels (dust and green)

In case of using this variation of Marc's technique/idea, I'd think that a thickness of 0,5mm instead of 1mm chip board would do as well ...  

[marc_reusser]

Gerald; Thanks for that SBS. those punched bricks work quite well, and give a good result.


Watching the '24-Heures de Mans', tonight I took some time to do a paint test on the out  of scale brick section I did previously. Nort perfect yet, and I cind of mucked up the left half with a light wash..but, I now sort of know where to go when I get to painting the final model.

1. Base color of Vallejo acrylic, painting surfaces and in cracks between.

2.  Spray on matte artists varnish (from a spray can).

3. Mix lightweight wall patching compound with some grey, beige, and black artists water color; add a slight bit of water to make it a bit more viscous. Brush and dab mixture onto wall and into cracks. Remove excess from surface with soft damp cotton rag, and damp brush.

4.  Randomly dry brush/dab Tamiya and Vallejo colors onto the individual bricks.

5.  Apply a light downward streaked dusting mix of MIG and CMK light dust colored pigments.

6.  Randomly Stain lower brick areas, inside corner, and grout lines with a varyingly diluted mix of AK dark streaking wash, and Abt.-502 oils.

7.   Apply the mossy green stains using a diluted mix of dark and light green Windsor Newton artists oil colors (linseed oil was wicked out before mixing).

...and here is where it went a bit screwey on the left side...as I went in and tried to apply some light dust and rain streaking. I think I will leave this out next time, or come up with a better approach to get the desired effect.







Marc