Country strore redux

[shropshire lad]

Superb workmanship and attention to detail it definitely keeps us on our toes not to omit even the smallest of detail and get my rivets in the wright place!!
Fantastic stuff Mr Chuck I have learnt a lot.
Thanks Barney

  And just think , Barney , it has all been achieved without the use of any Humbrol paint . Will wonders ever cease ? See you up in "The Frozen North " on Saturday . I'll pack my thermals ,

   Nick

[Junior]

Fantastic work as usual Chuck.

As for the building is there a particular reference picture you work from or is it just a combination of various pictures found on the Internet  ?

Anders

[azflyer2001]

I can't believe I've been missing out on this thread. Thanks for the link Doug and great work as usual Chuck.

Travis in Tempe

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks very much all!

Anders I am just using a lot of different details to freelance this place.

I used Humbrol years ago on a 1/76 tank. I took forever to dry and it was glossy. So I put it under my desk lamp since it made such a nice little heat dome...and of course it melted. Not sure if the shock of it all is what has kept me away from that paint since.

[MinerFortyNiner]

Remarkable work, Chuck, very inspiring. Thank you for 'splainin' how you did some of your techniques, most helpful. I want to try the technique you described for galvanized steel sheet. It's impossible to model a convincing mining camp without galvanized metal sheeting, and you really know your sheet! 

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Verne!

The right side of my store looked a little bare, so I added a chimney. This was my first time modeling bricks, so I went to the Westlake Forum and reviewed the posts on making/coloring bricks. I also downloaded a chart that someone had posted showing brick sizes (thanks!) Then I re-read Nick's article on bricks in the 2012 Modelers Annual. Finally I visited My Friend Flickr and found many pictures of old brick chimneys and the country stores who loved them.

I then made a 3D model using Solidworks.  I chose the Standard brick size and a mortar gap of a scale ½". I just made simple straight patterns although I could have done some more random spacing as taught by Nick, but I didn't think it would show up in O scale (it would have.)  I sent the model to Shapeways and had it printed in their FUD material. I was glad when they delivered it on the exact day promised this time (I hope that's the new normal for them). I did the usual sanding of the layer lines on the brick faces and then cleaned it thoroughly with Acetone. Using a sharp file and an X-Acto knife I added some general distressing and chips to many of the brick edges and faces (The FUD material is easy to carve).



I gave it a primer coat of flat black spray and when dry, a base coat of Polly Scale Chromate Primer. This was followed by brushing individual bricks with various brick looking Polly reds, oranges and browns. Then I added mortar using wallboard joint compound. This was wiped on and then wiped off with a damp sponge. When dry, a dusting of grey pigment powders started the mortar coloring. The final brick coloring was done with gouache and wet and dry pigment and pastel powders. Wet powders usually dry to a horrible color, but with some secondary working using water applied with a small brush and a sharp toothpick, I was pleased with the result. A final low pressure soda blast further flattened the finish. The mortar was then darkened more with pin washes of Silverwood or Weather-all.
I added a stove pipe using etched aluminum tube weathered with gouache and powders. The cement cap was made with wallboard compound that was slathered on and carved to shape when dry.

Based on reference photos I added some questionable patching and sealing cement between the bricks and the siding. The sloppiness may seem exaggerated, but I found numerous examples of this kind of workmanship. I don't know why the sealing was done, because I found many chimneys that were not sealed. I also added the requisite white paint slop.  Some of the mortar was carved out to simulate old joints just like Nicks bricks.

Now that it's installed, I need to add roof flashing and some touch up on the corners. Hopefully I can do more brickwork sometime, maybe in a larger scale.

[lab-dad]

Looks great!
Unfortunately I really think you need a whole building........
Also you should have made a mold so we could all give it a try!

How much was the "part"?

-Marty

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Marty. It was about 20 bucks with shipping. Shapeways has a thing where I could share the 3D model and anyone could order it from them. I didn't think it would be too interesting since it was made to fit a specific model (and it only has 3 sides with bricks).

A whole building needs a whole roof and I hate doing roofs. This one already has too much. But I agree with you.



Here is an example of some fine masonry....

[TRAINS1941]

Nice brick work Chuck.  I really like the way you did the chimmey to the wood it looks exactly like the real fine masonary chimmey. 

Jerry

[finescalerr]

The way you added mortar suggests imperfection in the bricks, too. It really works. -- Russ

[artizen]

It never ceases to amaze me how everything you model turns to gold. Great work - again!

[Mobilgas]

Chuck,  the wallboard joint compound looks real good never heard of anyone useing this before. Chimmey and the brickwork is a nice touch.

[Ray Dunakin]

That turned out great!

[shropshire lad]

Thanks Marty. It was about 20 bucks with shipping. Shapeways has a thing where I could share the 3D model and anyone could order it from them. I didn't think it would be too interesting since it was made to fit a specific model (and it only has 3 sides with bricks).

A whole building needs a whole roof and I hate doing roofs. This one already has too much. But I agree with you.



Here is an example of some fine masonry....

Chuck ,

  Have you been sneaking around my house again with your camera ? !

Your chimney has turned out looking really good , but we wouldn't expect to see anything less. It also looks alot easier to construct than my long winded method , although I am glad to see that my little article was of some use to you .

  Incidentally , the way you set out the bricks on your chimney is the only logical way of doing it so there would have been no need to do anything more elaborate .

  Nick

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks very much!

Sorry Nick, I didn't want to embarass you. Seriously, your article was a big help. Your bricks have the advantage of great colour to start with. I went cross-eyed several times staring at those tiny bricks while adding the finish.

Craig, I don't know if the wallboard compound has any advantage over other materials; it was pre-mixed and on my shelf so I gave it a try. It can be easily removed with a damp sponge even when dry which can be good or bad depending on what your trying to achieve.