Country strore redux

[marc_reusser]

Chuck I like the individual sheets, Why are they so different regarding the top edge? There seems to be a disconnect between the vertical flashing almost uniformly rusted and the variations on the sloped sheets with regards to the amount of rusting.

regards Michael

This is typical/common amongst metal roofs, siding and surfaces. Different metal components will rust differently depending on variety of factors, such as thickness, type and amount of galvanizing, and underlying substrate/framing, and use/climatic conditions of both the interior/underlying space, as well as the exterior.

I would ass-u-me in Chucks case that the flashing is a different metal and thickness than the roofing...or a lesser quality/type coating. The roof panels would/could vary because the sheets further away from the structure will have a different climatic condition (heat/moisture/humidity differences and rate of change from day to night) than those closer, to the structure. The rusting would/could also be affected by the laps, and the difference this makes in climatic condition...as would the underlying framing. Note also the sides of the overhang are closed....thus more space for trapped air/warmth under the area closer to the building and less at the outer...and because  of this difference in the amount of air under the outer and closer edges of the awning, it will cause more rapid/harsh changes in the metal each day as it transitions from day to night conditions (and visa-versa)....

Think of what happens to metal, along the same lines of how wood wears and peels differently depending on prep and finish, exposure, location, substrate, interior use, proximity of vegetation, and humidity to heat/dryness transition from night to day.

[danpickard]

As far as I'm aware, the "checkerboard" look that often occurs with the rust patterns on older galvanised roofing occurs because of how the galvanising process used to be done in the past.  I think it resulted in a different thickness of the galvanised coating on the front and back of the sheet, and depending on which way up the builder lay the sheet, some had a better weather protection layer than others, hence as time goes by, some panels rusted out much more than others. 

Cheers,
Dan

[michael mott]

Marc, Dan
Thanks for the detailed explanations, I grew up in a pretty damp climate things seemed to rust differently there.

Michael

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks all! The corrugated is from Builders in Scale. It is their S scale sheets slightly stretched to make 2" O scale spacing, which seems pretty common on southern structures. Trimmed to width with a knife, soda blasted @ 15 PSI, etched in PCB etchant, and then "painted" with gouache applied with a sponge and then pigment powders applied with a soft brush. I used a mix of Burnt Umber, and Sienna and black and then white for the unrusted parts. The transparency of the gouache works well for building up colors without covering thickly. It is also infinitely forgivable. I found it harder to do than the larger scales; certain mottling ideas don't look right in O scale and trying to vary the color of .04 wide troughs was tough for me. The blend between the rusted/unrusted areas is tricky; I'm still playing with it, it's harder to control in this scale. Things that look good close up don't always work in full view.

Michael, I went to Flickr for reference. Corrugated rusts in so many different ways even on the same roof. You are right that there are also regional differences.  One fairly common thing (though not always) was that the overlapped seams do not rust like the rest; I have no idea why. I copied a store canopy I found that had the rust pattern shown. I don't know why the pattern occurred like it did, though Marc has some good suggestions. I went for a fuller rust to give the model more color and contrast. The flashing is .002 steel that was etched to .001 thick which still proved to be quite stiff (unlike aluminum strip). I am still finalizing the coloring and I plan to add some more white paint slop. You could choose many different patterns from almost no rust to blotchy bits or fully and completely rusted and be correct. I think I am going to try ribbed seam panels for the main roof-another common southern roofing material.

Dan, I found the chalky white kind of tough. I used white gouache and pigment powders, but it is still greyer in the sun. There are plenty of Down under examples of corrugated on Flicker. The tin churches are very interesting.

Russ, it's been interesting working back in this size. I am still figuring out what can work. The nice macro view does not always translate to looking good when I pull back like it did in the larger scales. Nails really disappear at normal viewing distance.

[pwranta193]

I've wondered the same about the overlapping panels (edges) as well... I wonder if the overlap and typical lack of rust is akin the action with the zinc sacrifice plates on the back of boats?  One would think that the exposed edges would rust sooner/faster... but the opposite seems to be true?  I wonder if the overlapping and having two layers so close retards the overall rate of the exposed plate - because the reaction is halved?

Or I could be needing to stop looking at photos, catch up on my medications and get back to work 

[finescalerr]

Chuck, as you move back to a smaller scale do you find yourself going more for "realistic impression" rather than specific detail? You mentioned the nail heads as an example of detail failing to translate as you back off. Anything else so far? And how do you handle those things? Just omit them?

Your thoughts might be very valuable to small scale modelers who look with envy at photos of superb large scale models.

Russ

[Chuck Doan]

For the corrugated I found impression is looking better than the textured mottling I did in larger scales. Everything is more concentrated into a smaller package so some details even if they are technically correct may not look right when viewed at as a whole. I'll need to mock up a base pretty quick to see if this project is going to work in a scene.

[BKLN]

I am getting worried about the day when Chuck will start working in 1/87!

But this is a good discussion. How small can you go? There are things that you can replicate in smaller scale, but they just don't look right. The perfect example would be Ken's shopping cart. Ken developed this impressive brass kit of a O-scale shopping cart, it looks great in O-scale. DaKra and I were discussing the option of a HO-scale version. Of course it's possible. Technically it can be done, but I think it really wouldn't look right. There are limitation is scaling down. But I'm drifting off...

Chuck,
it's a pleasure to follow you build!

[Junior]

Really great as usual! By the way will this be just a front like the Groveland Garage? Maybe I missed something about that in another thread  .

Anders 

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Christian. Anders, it started as a most of a building, but I have converted it to a front:

[Gordon Ferguson]

I see that giant hand has crept back in again 

[mabloodhound]

I am so disappointed you can't make the CSC2011.   Had looked forward to your clinic.   
I'll satisfy my needs by reading through this thread a couple more times.
Excellent!

[Chuck Doan]

Couple of quick-between the clouds shots. Got the rest of the front siding on. Not too happy to read the topic on Silverwood fading as it is the basis of what I am doing.

[michael mott]

Chuck I like the parabolic curve of the difference between the weathering that is less exposed seeing the suns shadow on the building highlights the effect.

Michael

[finescalerr]

I think part of your lower photo didn't load. -- Russ