Country strore redux

[BKLN]

Yeah it's a problem doing all the detailing on the siding and then how much do you cover up with signs

Chuck, why don't you combine the two? Make the "imprint" of a sign, basically the shape of the sign that has fallen off, but has some somewhat protected the paint and wood. Maybe some rust spots on the edges where the sign rust has tarnished the white paint and the wood.

[Chuck Doan]

That's an interesting idea Christian. I may find a place for something like that. Jerry, I also prefer Pepsi, but in the south, well Coke is it. Wes, I'm going to make a frame and then if I still like it i'll write it up.

[Chuck Doan]

A dramatized progress shot of the front doors. After returning to this project (started back in '08), I decided I didn't like the first doors I did. So I remade them with wider boards. Then I decided the lower boards needed less paint, so I redid those again this weekend. I made the astragal (center strip) narrower and I added a Grandt Line hasp and a missing doorknob hole. I added a Microscale Pillsbury flour decal-I sanded it thinner after application with 1200 grit sandpaper and then soda blasted it at low pressure. Still needs a padlock and a bare-bulb light fixture.

Hopefully I will stay liking like this third version, but I have plenty of wood just in case.

[Ray Dunakin]

Stunning! Incredible detail for 1:48, hard to tell it's not 1:1.

[finescalerr]

Chuck, are you suggesting everything doesn't work out perfectly on the first attempt? Odds bodkins, man! Don't you realize that kind of admission will drive millions out of the hobby? -- ssuR

[Wesleybeks]

All I can say is WOW. Great work.

[marklayton]

Chuck -

That's a very convincing wear pattern - lower down on the door receives less weather protection from the overhang, plus lower down is where hands touch the door, and carts bang up the paint as they are pushed through.  The water stain on the overhang adds interest to a normally bland area.

Mark

[TRAINS1941]

Third time is a charm!!!!!

Hell I thought one & two were pretty dam good myself!!!!!

Jerry

[Barney]

Chuck - Just amazing + loads of wows !! Just starting my workshop building and not having much success in removing the paint off the planks do you think these Soda blaster things would make a better job or do you use the removal of the paint by tape and the blaster are the blasters controllable by the amount of air preasure and is it just Soda powder that you use ?
Thanks
Barney

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks guys!

Barney, here is the technique I have been using for this:

The wood is basswood, pre-cut to size. Mt. Albert, Midwest, Kappler Lumber are sources in the U.S. and Canada.

Stained with a product called Silverwood made by Builders in Scale. More coats equals a darker finish. Dries pretty fast.

Brush on brown Bragdon pigment powders and blow off residue. (helps peeling)

Then I dab brush on some Paint Thinner (mineral spirits) and I wait until just  a sheen is left.

Then I brush on some Acrylic white paint made by Floquil (Polly Scale), about 3 brushed out coats. More coats usually equals more peeling, but too thick and the peels will be rubbery and out of scale.

Sometimes I lightly score along the grain with a sharp knife to help the paint break up. (optional)

Then I peel the paint using a strip of Scotch Magic tape, usually layed along the grain. Keep turning the tape to use full strength adhesive (thinner dulls it) and also use fresh tape strips as required.

Add some splits/cracks with very sharp Xacto. Enhance some grain with damp brush on exposed wood (raises grain). Touch up exposed wood with Silverwood applied with a tiny brush and add/enhance color with thinned gouache.

When dry, I spray each board with a flattening agent called Dullcoat.



Each board is done individually. Each one can be peeled to suit a specific location or just generally. I occasionally remove and replace boards that I dislike after they have been applied.

Method is a little subjective, but usually reliable. You must peel shortly after the paint is applied; as the thinner dries, the peel effect is lost. For O scale I have not done any pre-graining of the wood. Of course the paint color can vary, but I have had the best success with Polly Scale brand. Feel free to test other brands, but I can't vouch for them. The undercoat can probably be ink or other standard weathered wood formulas. I have just been stuck on the Silverwood. Scotch Magic tape works best-you don't want something too aggressive or you will lift wood slivers too.  Some tapes can leave a residue too. I use separate brushes for the Silverwood, thinner and paint.

I sometimes soda blast the paint at low pressure to dull it. I have had no luck removing paint with the soda blast and getting a good result; it takes the wood back to original color usually and adds too much graining.



Recap:

Stain
Powder
Thinner
Paint
Peel
Touch-up/Dullcoat


And don't forget relentless grueling research!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomjbh/5892179309/

[Barney]

Chuck - Thanks for the answers - I will have another bash at it -
Thanks again
Barney

[TRAINS1941]

Thanks Chuck for the how to do it.  It's appreciated.

I understand now why it never comes out right I missed the last step!!!

And don't forget relentless grueling research!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomjbh/5892179309/

Jerry

[jacq01]

  And you put back the fallen ( or a new ) number 7   or is that missing on the garage ?

 improving your own work is always nice, there must have something been bothering you    

 Jacq

[finescalerr]

At some point, some of your models (like Chuck's recent ones) transcend craft to become art. We all recognize it when we see it. Rather cool, isn't it? -- Russ

[Chuck Doan]

Yeah Jerry, it can be distarcting er, tracting! I'ts nice that so many photograpers like to pose thier pretty models against nice weathered subjects.

Yes, Jacq, I found the seven!

Thanks Russ.