1920s-type heavy duty truck 1:16 scale

[Ray Dunakin]

Marvelous, as usual!

[curb]

Outstanding workmanship!  Can you tell us where you found the detailed drawings you used?

[Scratchman]

Thanks guys for your comments. Curb, along with the photo of the truck I am using three sets of plans from the Gazette to help with my freelance model.

1- 1917 Kleiber 3 1/2-Ton Truck (May/June 1992)

2- 1920 White 5-Ton Model 45 Truck (July /August1991)

3- 1917 White Model TAD 3-Ton Chain-Drive Truck (September/October1991) 

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Scratchman]

Here's four photos of my progress.









Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Gordon Ferguson]

Its great work and as always there's lots to learn as well as admire.

Optional load

[Scratchman]

Thanks Gordon that's  a great photo. Here's a 1:48 scale 1919 Packard  truck I built many years ago. The plans for both the truck and donkey engine are from old Kemtron plan books.



Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Barney]

A true master of the white plastic stuff ! plus a nice scale to work in to show the detail - small prototypes large scale its got to be the way to go !
keep the photos coming I have learnt a lot - inspiration at its best.
Barney

[Mr scratchmod]

Man that is some fantastic scratch building. Not sure if it was mentioned in the posts, was too busy drooling over the pics, but what did you use for the rivets and NBW ?? It's almost a shame to have to paint this.

Rob

[Scratchman]

Thanks Rob and welcome to the forum. I use Grandtline castings for the rivets and the NBW's on all of my projects.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Mr scratchmod]

Thanks for the info Gordon. Next order I put in will be for various size rivets and will try to get some GL.

Rob

[Scratchman]

Rob for some information on the grandtline rivets look at my fourth post on this thread.

http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1527.0

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Mr scratchmod]

Gordon, I keep coming back to this, several times daily, and can't get over you scratch building skills. I love looking at models that have a lot of white styrene in them because you can see the work that went into the model and also see what what used to make what. Those rivets and NBW's look fantastic on the naked styrene. I don 't know if I am up to something like this but am mentally planning an easier scratch project, a crane, and this is the motivation I need to actually get off my butt and do it. I'll be stocking up on supplies and taking apart old PC's and vcr's for usable parts.
keep up the fantastic work.

Rob

[Scratchman]

Step-by-Step for the wheels

The wheel are a typical wooden wagon wheel with a set of metal rings that holds the hard rubber tire to the wood rim. The model wheels are not prototypical. Building the wheels like the model wheelwright modelers do in this small scale is beyond my modeling skills. The problem with the model wheel is not having the right shape on the spokes and cutting part B. in half leaving the small gap between the spokes.   

Large wheel (parts for one wheel)(axle size 7/32" brass tubing).

A. (1) PVC conduit 2-7/8" OD 2-7/16" ID cut 5/8" long.
B. (2) 2-1/2 inch  Plastruct tube # TB-250 5/16" minus 010" long. (with a thin saw blade slit from side to side. Add a spacer till parts B. Fits tight inside part A. remove part B. and glue on spacer)
C. (1) styrene disk 020" x 2-7/8" diameter with a 1/4" center hole. (draw lines for the twelve spokes see photo.) 
D. (2) Ring/flanges Plastruct # RI-18  13/16 OD x 1/8" thick.
E. (24) styrene 125" x 156" cut to length
F. (2) styrene disk 020" x 7/8" diameter. with 1/4" center hole.
G. (2) styrene ring 020" x 2-7/16" ID 2-3/4" OD
(18) Rivets Grandtline # 156 NBW Grandtline #23
H. Hub parts H.1 (1) 1/4" OD brass tube 7/8" long H.2 (1 each) 5/16" OD styrene tube (1) 3/8" long (1) 1/8" long. H.3 hex nut and styrene hole punch



Small wheel (parts for one wheel)(axle size 3/16" brass tubing).

A. (1) 2 inch PVC pipe 2-3/8" OD 2" ID cut 1/2" long.
B. (2) 2 inch Plastruct tube # TB-200 1/4" minus 010" long (with a thin saw blade slit from side to side. Add a spacer till parts B fits tight inside part A.)
C. (1) styrene disk 020" x 2" diameter with a  7/32" center hole. (draw lines for twelve spokes on one side only this side will be the front side.  see photo.)
D. (2) Ring/flanges Plastruct # RI-16 3/4" OD x 100" thick
E. (24) styrene 100" x 125" cut to length. (refer to step 1-)
F. (2) styrene disk 020" x 13/16" diameter. with 7/32" center hole.
G. (2) styrene ring 020" x 2" ID 2-1/4" OD
(18) rivets Grandtline # 156 (18) NBW Grandtline # 23
H. Hub parts H.1 7/32" OD brass tube 7/8" long H.2 (1 each) 9/32" OD styrene tube (1) 3/8" long (1) 1/8" long H.3 hex nut and styrene hole punches

Steps for the wheels

1- Cut and clean up all parts. Cut center holes in parts C.and F. (Over-cut the E. parts 1/32). 2- Add parts B. and C. to the center of part A. (do not glue).  3- Sand both ends till both A. and B. parts are flush. 4- With the assembly laying on it's back glue on part D to the front of part C. 5- Cut Parts E. to the correct length and glue on to the front of part C. (Be careful not to glue parts A.,B., and C. together). 6- Remove part C and cut out between the spokes. 7- Reassemble and turn the wheel with the back up. 8- Add parts D. and E. to the back of part C. 9- Glue the assemblies together and glue on part G. 10- The center holes on part F. need to line up with the center hole in part C. to do so place wheel on it's back on a flat surface. Add part H1 into the center hole of part C. and down onto the flat surface. Now add part F over the  part H.1 and glue to part D. 11- Turn over wheel and add the other part F. 12- Remove part H.1 from the wheel and glue on the larger H.2 part at one end.  13- From the front add part H.1 to the center of the wheel and add the smaller part H.2. 14- push the H.2 parts up tight against the F. parts and do a good glue joint. 15- Add the rivets and NBW casting to part F. and G. 16- end of the hub I used a hex nut along wit some styrene hole punches.

Note 1. I used a circle cutter to cut the disks and the rings and had to do very little clean up.

Note 2. when cutting circles start with a small center hole and cut on both sides.

Note 3. I use my 8 inch chop saw to cut the tubing and pipe. ( you need to be very careful doing this).

Steps for fenders

On the one photo you can see the device for holding the top and bottom of the fender at the right profile while gluing the top to the bottom. This device keep the fender from twisting while the two parts are glued together.

1.- cut the top and bottom out of 030 styrene  the bottom 1" wide and the top 3/4" wide  2- using a scale drawing determine the length and diameter. Cut the pieces to the correct length. 3-  I cut a 2-7/8" diameter pipe 3/4" long with a styrene retainer at both ends for the fender 4- Before gluing up the fender, take the two pieces and wrap around a section of 2" pipe. use rubber bands to hold in place set in a glass bowl and cover with boiling water. 5- Now you are ready to add the parts to the device and glue together.       



       
 
 

   

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Scratchman]

Here's four photos of my progress.









Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Mr scratchmod]

Gordon, thanks for the great sbs. This will come in very handy when I have the nerve to tackle these types of wheels. Got to take baby steps first.

Rob