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Making a K27

Started by John McGuyer, February 01, 2008, 07:04:01 PM

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John McGuyer

I mentioned earlier that I was planning work on a Bachmann K27. I said that I would start a new thread when the project began. Well the time has come and hopefully I can get suggestions on techniques to improve this engine. The first picture is the start of a brass plow in place of the molded plastic one that came with the engine. I will want this piece to eventually look chipped along the front and rusted in the corners. It should be engine black with a metallic sheen. The second photo os my first attempt with Pearwood and Silverwood weathering. It was actually done on a mill using normal mill cutters.

John

John McGuyer

I have to make a second post to get all the pictures in. The first is the smoke stack. This is my experiment learning to use combinations of Floquil paint, MIG pigments and Bragdon powders. I'm slowly finding things that work for me. One thing that seems very effective is that I have mixed a little Bragdon light rust powder in some Floquil flat clear. I can dab this into a spot then stipple some dark rust powder into the drying paint. It gives a very good textured rust spot. I've found that the mixed paint gives me far better control than just using straight clear (which tends to run) and either gives much more control than just trying to dab on the powder as in the instructions.

The second photo is just for information. They are the patterns for 1/20.3 glad hands that are on their way to Ozark. They should considerably improve what they presently have. They of course will be used on this model when available.

John

John McGuyer

This last photo has nothing to do with the K27, but I have mentioned that I was making a Southern Pacific GS-4 from a MTH GS-2, so I thought you might be interested in actually seeing it. Here is a shot of the pattern for the dual light nose. If you look closely, the upper light is actually two lights. It also now has all the hinge detail. This piece is now at Bob's to make a resin casting. That will then be finished and used on the model. We'll keep the brass part just in case we want to make more. Also, you can see the proper front wheels which were turned from brass. This picture was taken in progress and much has yet to be done to it.

John

finescalerr

Wonderful brass work, John. -- Russ

macsair

Yea buddy, the same great stuff as usual John, I'm anxious to see what you come up with for a snowplow for the Bachman K-27.  It would sure enhance the front portion  and make a universal  engine out of it when needed.......Keep up the beautiful detail work, can't get along without you any more.         Mac

jacq01


  The heat affected area is very well done, looks like real, I imagine the hissing when something wet will touch it.
  Pity it not possible to give it a little glow.
  Your brass parts are beyond me, when I need some, I'll send a mail ;D

   Jacq
put brain in gear before putting mouth in action.
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots
I am what I remember.

John McGuyer

Thank you guys! I feel like a student showing his work to the teachers.

John

Nurser

OK, OK, I was injected with the gene on Zog before I arrived.  There, you weedled it out of me, damn!!
Hector

John McGuyer

#8
Is a canal boat really a Zog spaceship in disguise?

John

RoughboyModelworks

Quote from: John McGuyer on February 04, 2008, 09:34:03 PM
Is a canal boat really a Zog spaceship in disguise?

No... it's a docking station  ;)

Bill

John McGuyer

Then we better hope that canal boat stays afloat or we'll have a lot of lost Zog spaceships.

John

John McGuyer

Here's a shot of where the K-27 is at. On the front is the tool box we discussed made of brass covered pearwood. The brass parts do look much better than the original injection molded pieces. I am weathering them, then stepping on to the next phase.

John

finescalerr

The toolbox and brass work look superb, John. But you need to stop hand-holding your camera for shots in low light. Everything is blurred. Use a tripod, set the f/stop to f/9, push the button, and wait a few seconds for shutter to close after a long exposure. The photo will be infinitely better. -- Russ

John McGuyer

I'll try cnU. It will be very hard to get a tripod in where I'm shooting these pictures. I may have to make something that clamps onto my chair.

John

John McGuyer

!cnU
They moved the electric car that normally sits just behind me so I had enough room to drag a chair over and sit the camera on my little tripod. Really does help. Shot these at F10.

Here's where we are at. I'm learning to use the Bragdon powders as you can see. It doesn't show, but there is now a Pearwood floor in the cab. Worked out very well. Thanks! Also per watching projects here, I'm doing layers of both Floquil and Vallejo paints and am getting some pretty good chipping and wear effects. Only problem with the powders is that I get the effect I want, but it rubs off too easily. I'm afraid to airbrush over it as I might lose the texture the powder gives.

I'm now making chairs for the engineer and fireman as I somehow don't think they are plastic boxes.

John