Logging layout under construction : The mill's headsaw

[jacq01]

   I have started with the design and construction of a O scale diorama layout depicting part of a mill, a logpond and a On30 logging operation with repair facilities. The visible part will be have a 12'0" x 18" stage, 20" deep.
The only track will be along the logdump ( and it's working ginpole with steam donkey ) and into the repair shop.

  Here some photo's of the headsaw.

   

   

   

   
   An overview of the saw in parts

   
   The top wheel assembled with all spokes ( 36 )


   When some books have arrived  ( this week I hope ) I can finalise the footprint of the mill
   and start making a carton mock up to check the proportions and position within the diorama.

   Jacq

[Nurser]

Hey guys, we got a clever one here

Jacq is that a kit or did you master it for the parts?
Hector

[marc_reusser]

Jacq,

Beautifully built and finished. I like the main color and al the bare metal part colors/finishing. The fine wood dust around the base of the parts as well done and adds a nice contrast/detail.

Marc

[RoughboyModelworks]

Jacq:

Lovely work ? colouring and finish are superb.

Bill

[finescalerr]

Keep posting, Jacq! -- Russ

[TRAINS1941]

Jacq

Nice job on the Band-Saw I really like the color.  Is that the one you emailed me about the Green Revall with White?
Really like what your doing.

Jerry

[jacq01]

  Jerry,

  this is the Western Scale saw.
  The colors suggestions were an answer on your question what colors the equipment for the workshop could have.
  The color of the saw is very usefull in that respect too. I'll check at home what number it is.

  Maybe someone does know qn answer to the following:  The saw has an adjustable upper sawblade guide. This guide can be lowered or raised to suit the log dimension.
I cannot find a means for the saw crew to operate this guide mechanism. The screw rod is there, but no mechanisme to turn it.  Bill ( Western Scale) was not able to answer my question. There are some solutions in Google patents, but non that could easily be fitted on this saw.


  Jacq

[jacq01]

  Rich,

  a bandsaw blade get changed 2-4 times a day pending the type of wood and the amount to be sawn.
  Hull Oakes changes every 2 hours. The blade tension after spanning the blade is by a weight on a arm, which
activated with levers on the top bearings. Te bottom bearings are fixed to allow for the drivebelt.

  On large bandsaws the blade is vibrating a lot in two planes, due to its span, the tendency to move away from the
  log body ( move with the cut cant). To counteract this, a fixed lower - and a adjustable upper sawguide is installed to be moved as close as possible to the top of the cant to be cut. For headrigs this means a lot of adjustement of the sawguide as the top of the cut in the log varies considerably per move.  There were a lot of patents regarding this upper saw guide from mechanical to hydraulic and steam operated controls.
Looking at some photo's on the internet, it looks like a gearbox or e-motor mount on top of the guide arm.
On the photo's in the post photo 2 shows clearly the guide, the arms and the housing with the screw, but no means to turn the screw.

Jacq

[John McGuyer]

I have to agree, beautiful job. The sawdust does add that extra touch you so seldom see.

John

[jacq01]

Waiting for the post to deliver the ordered books, the time seems to creep. Last night I decided to have a go at the CHB lathe I got via e-bay awhile ago.  Finger licking?? to the extend that when I left my workroom last night the thing at once was finished..... No more parts.... and painted.  I must have been so absorbed by the detailing and old memories.  I agree with Chuck Doan ?s  remark ?Thank you Mr. Brommer?

I learned to turn parts on a lathe like this, only converted with an electric motor and the gears within a meshed cage.

The parts were first cleaned from the little amount of flash there was and washed with white spirit ( naphta?) .
The kit was put together as per instructions and painted with a mix of Revell green no 39 with 10% white and naphta as thinner. Than the parts,  which have to remain bare metal,  were cleaned with a old small paint brush stump and some nail polish remover ( aceton) and polished bright with a polishing paper. Than I had coffee and did something urgently and far more important ( according to my wife) . Having done that, I continued with the lathe and gave all bare parts a wash of prusian blue-black and faded this towards corners etc. and applied some brown powder in nooks and crannies and around the doors and hinges.
Than I stopped, took some photo's and assessed the results with a beer.  Some corrections  and an application of real grease with some brown-black powder and I have to put it away or I?ll kill it by overdoing things.




 

[TRAINS1941]

Jacq

Beautiful job on putting it together, I just think that color is great but I can't find it.  I'll have to look at some more places that carry Revell.  Weathering is just fine not overdone but leaves the impression the machine is well used.
Overall an outstanding model.

Jerry