Kingfisher a gaff rig pilot cutter

[michael mott]

Little bit of work completed the top Fir planking is now in place over the pine, the first picture shows the scraped and sanded finish ready for the glue caulking.

After the caulking is completed there will be a final scraping before oiling with teak oil.



The caulking is done with carpenters glue diluted a little with Tamiya thinner and a little Tamiya black applied with a disposable syringe. I cut a new batch of Fir planks that were a little lighter in colour and finer grained.





I dug out a couple of really old models today and placed them on the deck for comparison, they were started way back in 1980 the Bounty hull is carved with the masting all from maple and the masts all rise up through the cross trees as they would on the full sized ship if she had not sunk in Hurricane Sandy. The carronade is from Longridge's book called The Anatomy of Nelson' ships it was started in 1974





the stern is made from maple strips cut on a micro saw that I mounted on the lathe cross slide. with the blade held in an arbor in the chuck.



the old models look a bit rough but interesting for me to revisit them after all these years.
Michael

[Ray Dunakin]

The look pretty good to me!

[marc_reusser]

Gaak!....I can't see any pictures.

[michael mott]

Marc, why can't you see any pictures?

michael

[michael mott]

I have been spending most of my time here working on the boat.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/74-bristol-pilot-cutter-by-michael-mott-18-scale-pof/page-24

Michael

[finescalerr]

We are not authorized to view your jpegs, an oversight I chastised you for in another thread. Again I implore you to post a few jpegs (not links) here although it might not lessen your penalty time in the corner. On the other hand, one never know, do one? -- Russ

[michael mott]

an oversight I chastised you for in another thread.

Russ my deepest regrets for not learning the lesson the first time round..... having just turned 65 I must put it down to a senior moment, and perhaps the few beers.
Before I go on with these few pictures it used to be really simple to use photobucket, it seems to get more complicated every week. What a palava to link a few pics



This picture shows the mast cap it is 1/4 inch thick and cut out with a jewelers saw it took 20 minutes.



This picture shows the Gammon Iron it was fabricated from a ring of cast brass cut from a plumbing fixture and silver soldered to a 1/16th inch plate then wrapped with some rope made from some polyester cotton thread.



This picture shows some shackles made from brass rod necked down in the lathe and then bent and drilled and tapped for the pins, some of the pins were also held with retaining rings



This picture shows the Anchor Winch it is made from Maple and Clear Fir the posts are tennoned through the deck. the winch still need the brass plates to reinforce the square holes for the cranking bar.



This shows the end of the bowsprit which was silver soldered and also the pulley block and shackles



This shows the shrouds which will need to be replaced with wire ones because these are too stretchy, these shrouds are made from 4 ropes of three strands with 6 yarns in each strand of #CE50 Gutterman 100 % cotton



This last picture shows an experiment with a wire forestay it is made from a 2mm bicycle brake cable. It was then seized with different wires and a line made of some rope formed from polyester upholstery thread.

This simple card model boat has turned into a rather long learning curve for me about building model boats. There is a long way to go yet but I am enjoying every minute of it.


May I come out of the corner now....Pleeeze


Michael

[finescalerr]

Okay. Step out of the corner and go to the head of the class. -- Russ

[marc_reusser]

Wow. Just beautiful; really lovely craftsmanship and detailing. So glad to see that you have been building on this. Cant wait to see it in the water.

[lab-dad]

Stunning!
With the wood and metal work this is very, very impressive!
Glad your back here posting.

I also use photobucket, any assistance I may give please ask.

-marty

[Chuck Doan]

Man, that is very impressive and beautiful work Michael!

[Ray Dunakin]

As the others have said, very impressive! I'm continually amazed at the craftsmanship.

[granitechops]

Michael,
just a question to satisfy my ignorance,
as I have NO first hand knowledge of boat building.

When doing house flooring using wood planks, all end on joints are usually over a support beam, ie both ends receive support from the beam.

I notice from photo 5 on this page several deck planking joints where there appears to be no cross beam.
( judging from the nailing pattern)
Is there a different approach in marine construction?
do they add extra support at such points?
or is there a double layer to the decking in real life that gives that support?
I love boats & their shaping & how its acheived, but I am no sailor, strictly a landlubber!
So am following your build with interest
glad to see your wrist problem have not stopped your progress

[michael mott]

Russ, Marc, Marty, Chuck, Ray, and Don, thanks for your kindness regarding my work, it sometime feels as if I'm flying by the seat of my pants and other times I feel in control. It is all about the journey though in the end and not the destination, I am learning a great deal while building this model, I'm mostly in uncharted territory for me on this one.

Don to answer your question regarding the planking on small craft (I cannot answer to large ships) the frames are too narrow to be used for the support for the ends of 2 planks. A plate that is twice as long as the plank is wide is common. regarding the double planking on the deck This is something that would be possibly dome by someone refurbishing a smaller craft similar in a way to laying up the planking over a plywood sheet as is done on some modern yachts.

I would think that for the most part though the planking would have been lifted and replaced on most boats. My model is somewhat of a hybrid and it seemed to me that the second layer would be a simple way to achieve the look I wanted rather than rip off the old deck to use it as a base for the top layer.

Michael

[michael mott]

The shrouds are going to be replaced with some stainless steel ones because the rope ones are too stretchy. I will be using some 1/16th diameter aircraft cable that will need to be blackened, How I am still researching. the ends that will be wrapped around the dead eyes will be first shrink wrapped with a short length of black shrink wrap which will simulate the worming parceling and serving.





The red is obviously the wrong colour but it was all I had. I need to go to the city to get some black. The texture looks close enough for the purpose and because it will be subject to some handling I think that it will work with the seizing after it is wrapped around the dead eye.

Michael