Jacq's Logging Project Discussion

[Chuck Doan]

I should add that the individual wire nail heads I did in 1/16th scale worked well, and were easily seen from normal viewing distance. The few I have tried so far  in 1/48th look OK close up, but quickly disappear as you back away from the model. If you start them, you will likely need them everywhere. I will probably still do some on my O scale store, but only a few here and there more as a suggestion.

Dipping the pencil tip in color is tricky. Hard to get a nice repeatable dot. I usually come back with a light touch of stain or Silverwood to kill the shine of the lead, but preserve the dark dot. The shiny lead spot can maybe simulate a galvanised nailhead, but you'll have to judge for yourself if it looks right. Shiny things are very tricky in miniature, especially if surrounded by a lot of weathered flat surfaces.

I started using that tiny pencil back in my board drafting days. Hell of a thing to draw with, but great for nails!

[lab-dad]

Jacq,
I used a .3mm pencil, then sharpened to a fine point for nail heads on my sawmill.
I however did them before staining the wood.
The result was/is very subtle and only noticeable if you actually look for them.
-Marty

[jacq01]

 The 0,3mm pencil methode I have used before (also in H0) but nver satisfied me. It demands a lot of constraint not to push the pencil too deep. With large amounts, it is easy to loose the finesse needed to do it properly, even when very experienced. The feeling for it blunts very quickly.

   

I should add that the individual wire nail heads I did in 1/16th scale worked well, and were easily seen from normal viewing distance. The few I have tried so far  in 1/48th look OK close up, but quickly disappear as you back away from the model. If you start them, you will likely need them everywhere. I will probably still do some on my O scale store, but only a few here and there more as a suggestion.

  Chuck, thanks,  I had the same feeling. 
The total amount of nails on one floor is around 9000.  To maintain a constant quality on indenting is in this instant very very difficult. Your last idea for the O scale to apply them selective appears to be the way to go. With some elementary mock ups of machinery and loose sawdust in place  it will be possible to determine exposed floor area's where nails will be visible. To achieve convincing nailheads in such spots will not be too difficult.

Russ,
the results of your experiments in the post on paper models with the inkjet boards do show very convincing nailheads. I cannot find further details on how you achieved these results as the paper boards look
more real than the wooden boards. I love to experiment with this methode for the smaller buildings that will be placed on the layout, as I haven't worked with paper in this way before. Do you have easy accessible details? 

Jacq

[finescalerr]

Jacq, I probably should send you a JPEG with my board artwork (in a color of your choice). It does look better than plastic and can look as good as wood if the artwork represents painted wood with no more than moderate weathering. If you want peeling paint or similar effects, then Chuck's methods are far more realistic because the smoother texture of printed paper becomes a problem.

I cannot easily explain how to create the inkjet artwork because my method requires a lot of knowledge of Photoshop.

One other thing I could send you is a copy of my original article on modeling with paper. I have a PDF. Let me know what you want and I will send it by e-mail.

Russ

[jacq01]

   Russ,
 
   please do so....  I am realy intrigued.  As most buildings on the diorama are built from untreated lumber, I like to try this out. the ones that have some paint do get Chuck's treatement.

  thanks
  Jacq

[jacq01]

 
  Here the next step. The lumber has not arrived yet, so I started on the logdeck and the related machinery.
  The plan I have is mentioning as loading / turning machinery  a log kicker, a Hill logloader/turner and a Simonson logloader/ turner all operated / controled by the sawyer.

  The book Lumber taught me what these items do and looked like, photo's of Pino Grande, Mumby Lumber and others and a search in patents showed details and function. Based on this information I designed for the mill's layout matching equipment.
For the possible weights of the timber I checked structural dimensions ( a good exercise after so many years) and built up from evergreen parts all bearings, seats, shafts etc. into functioning models. All parts can move like the original. Steam cilinder sizes based on the usual pressures were also checked . In all some good fun 

Small items are under construction and will be added when the deck and Simonson loader are fixed.
The parts under the floor like the Hill loader, steam cilinders for the logkicker and loaderbars will be added when the groundfloor pillars are in place.



















Jacq

[John McGuyer]

Jacq,

Really nice work on those arms. What kind of material are they made of?

John

[marc_reusser]

A always....Beautiful, clean and precise work!

I just noticed the bandsaw pattern on the floor boards...great attention to detail...one that is generally not seen in this scale of models. How did you create the effect?

Marc

[finescalerr]

Stunning so far. -- Russ

[jacq01]

  Thank you for your kind comments,

  John,  all parts are made from styrene and some brass tubing.
           the arm's body is made from 1,0mm sheet and all 5 filed to shape with a small template.
           the flange is a strip of 2,2mm x 0,5mm ( 4" x1") glued over the circumference and joined in an area not visible when in place.
           the boss is made from 2 2mm round 4,6mm tube representing a keyed and dogged fixation.
           
  Marc,  the bandsaw marks are a lucky result of the way the redwood supplier cut the 2"x12"'s I assume. I'll
            ask him.

   Jacq

[John McGuyer]

Jacq,

I particularly like the way you did all the webbing and bracing on them. You didn't just chop out an arm, you gave it detail. Those little things are what makes a model exceptional.

John

[RoughboyModelworks]

Excellent work Jacq... I'm really enjoying seeing this project come to fruition.

Paul

[jacq01]

   I have started on the plans for the gang trimmer saw.  Can anyone help me with discarded / blunt / old  miniature blades of 1/2" to 7/8" diameter ?  Even 1-2 will be very usefull as base for photo etching the rest. Otherwise I'll have to prepare a drawing of a blade to be able to make an etch negative. This will also be used for the 5'0" edger I have drawn.
In all 6 are needed in the edger,  12-14 in the gang trimmer and  approx  8 in the slasher gang saw.

  The logdeck is finished, some small parts of the loader to be added.  I have chosen for a loghaul car like used at the Hume-Bennett mill.  This appears to me more attractive than a jackslip with chain. 
Foto's will follow shortly. 

I received the book "They felled the Redwoods" last week................  It looks very little changed in the world regarding ignorance, greed and fraud....

Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Jacq,

Let me check regarding the blades. It is a tough size, as most of the fine blades used by Dremel & such are larger in dia.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

Jacq,

Here's what I have found.



The photo etch fret on the left is from 'Echo Mountain Models', http://www.echomtn.com/08CAT.htm#SAW2 it is their "O-scale Logging Saws Group": the 2 big blades are 1.15" in dia, the mid size blade is .75" dia., and the 2 small blades are .50" inches in dia. Its' not as many as you need, but I have 2 of these saw sets that you can have if interested (Though I would need to keep the hand saws from one of the sets..and one set is missing one of the large blades.)

The saw blade on the right is a miniature circular saw blade from "Gyros" http://www.gyrostools.com/Miniature-Circular-Saw-Blades-Miniature-Circular-Saw-Blades---Specialty/c15_46/index.html.....they are not cheap for the amount you need............not that it helps you, but I have one "used" blade at .917" in dia. that you can have.

Voyager models makes Photo etched blades on various sizes & coarseness, unfortunately they have a rib pattern etched on them. http://www.spruebrothers.com/Nexternal/tools---cutting.htm



Marc