Jacq's Logging Project Discussion

[jacq01]

    Marty,

    yes, 
   only the Hull Oakes has some drawings and photo's but not clear enough to make out how the drive is arranged.
   I also checked the University of Washington site with similar results.
   
   Jacq

[jacq01]

Tomorrow to Intermodellbau in Dortmund and built up. From Wednesday till Sunday it will be a mad house.
In 5 days from 9.00h till 18.00h  approx 100.000 visitors are expected.
As the layout is marked as highlight, it will get extra attention. 
Fysically it reminds me of topsport. 
Luckily I have been able to organise a good crew of enthusiast, motivated and experienced top modellers from Germany, Switzerland and Holland.
I'll report after the weekend with photo's and commentary.

Jacq

[RoughboyModelworks]

Best of luck with the show Jacq. 100,000 visitors  - now that's a show! I'm sure everything will go well.

Paul

[jacq01]

  After a very succesfull show, my fingers itched to start building the trimmer saw.
  Attending a show is very rewarding but not being able to use itching fingers is challenging, even when it is compensated in the evening with a couple of friends and a few biers.........
 
 

   

   
    The saws used come from Brett Gallant and are ideally suited for the job.
    Saw is a scale 24" dia with convincing thickness.
   The collets are made by cutting 4mm RB model drums and filing the back of the flanges smooth.
   Axle is a 1mm precision tube.

   

   

   In total 10 saws are made. I discovered I need to make one extra to enable even or uneven lengths.
   Distance saw 1-2  1'0"   2-3  6'0"  3-4-5 till 10  2'0" increments.
   Total table length 180 mm ( 7,5" ) 

   

   experimenting with swingarms of saw.  I am still not sure to make arm of metal or wood.
   I have not been able to get clear details and patents from 1870 -1910 show various solutions. 
   Photo shows styreen arm dia 2.4mm with 25,4 mm length and aluminium arm dia 2,0mm.


 

 

  Detail of aluminium arm  2.0mm precision tube with 1.0mm tube as shaft.
  still to be cleaned, deburred, squared, etc. 

  to be continued................

  Jacq


 

   
 

[TRAINS1941]

Jacq

Nice blades that Brett sent you.  An a outstanding job of mounting them and doing the arm & shaft.
Glad your show went so well.  And that your able to get back to the mill.

Jerry

[marklayton]

Jacq -

Don't let that unguarded blade slice off an itching finger! 

Mark

[jacq01]

 
   

Don't let that unguarded blade slice off an itching finger!

   My wife is complaining about the steeply risen costs of bandaid.     
   She is deducting these costs from my modeling budget 

   Jacq

[PuckHog]

So glad your back at this one  Jacq,  looking forward to regular progress updates.....Randy

[jacq01]

  to check the fit of all machinery on the footprint, the position and size of live rolls, transfertables, feedertables, edger,
  trimmer gangsaw, slasher saw and greenchain had to be decided.
  A good help here is the book Lumber by R.C. Bryant, some interior photo's of sawmills I found on the web and the available patent information from the 1860 to 1915 period.



Overview of floor with drawing of live roll, transfers and edger





manufacturing the masters for the live rolls 10" dia and 4'0" long. The mitregear and bearings come from CHB/SW 





Silicone mould halves intended for metal casting.  Too low temperature and lack of centrifuge made this at first a failure.





First effort with alternative material.  Clear 2 component PU glue was used to fill both mould halves.
After closing the mould and waiting for 1 hour this came out. The material was still too soft and surprised by the air still trapped.  Cleanig and painting showed a lot of improvement, but the material remained soft. Waiting another 24 hours
stabilised the form.



Right roll cleaned, deburred and primed gave an acceptable part.
Left roll was made from a different matierial, cleaned and deburred but not painted.



Roll made from 2 component metalglue direct after taken from the mould. When waiting 24 hours, flash etc breaks off and an be removed very easily with knife and file. Material is extremily hard.



Overview of materials,  moulded parts and mould.

The framework of the live rolls will be assembled within the coming days.
Trimmersaw will be finalised when ordered material ( drive chains,pulleys etc.) has arrived.
Jigs for sawmill rooftrusses are nearly ready.
Base of sawmill module is ready, waiting for geological information of area i.w.o. ground floor of mill.


To be continued...................

Jacq

[finescalerr]

Most impressive. And evidence that a good modeler often throws out as many attempts as he keeps. Thank you for showing us your failures as well as your success. -- Russ

[danpickard]

Hi Jacq,
The metal glue seems to have come out well.  Did you have to actually inject it into the mould after doing the initial mix of the 2 part glue?  I would have thought it would have been too thick of a liquid to pour very well.  Also, did you have to use a release agent when using the glue mixes?  I normally work with the 2 part resin, which then pours like a syrup, and runs easily into moulds, but I can see the harder metal glue might be suitable for certain casting applications.

Cheers,
Dan

[jacq01]

  Dan,

  the clear glue runs like resin. As it is touch dry with 5 minutes it is not reaching all corners when poured.
  I tried filling both mold halves and than close the mold. Rest material is ouzing out from the casting - and airholes.
  With the clear material it turned out, not all air between the two halves disappears.
  Not satisfied, I tried the metal glue in the same way with facinating results. Details are very well reproduced and when cutting one lengthwise no or very very little air holes were visible.
Cutting with a knife was not possible anymore so I had to use a small disc.
  I made tonight a small casting box for some of the needed little parts ( mitre gears, angle brackets, etc) to cover the amount of live rolls needed. Silicone has been poured, so the mold should be usable tomorrow evening.

  Jacq

[John McGuyer]

Obviously I liked the brass parts.

John

[jacq01]

   John,

   so do I.   Brass tubing must be painted / brazed to represent steel so white metal has an advantage here.
   But having no casting and centrifuging facilities, I am still looking for alternatives of the present tryout parts with better quality.  One idea is sleeving a stainless or polished steel tube over the ends with bearings and gears.
   
   These ends can be the homebrew variant or made from the Sierra West Models live rolls.
   The SW/CHB live rolls as offered by Brett are the nicest available but are not long enough and too small in diameter
   for use in a large mill.  I've contacted him on availability and possible purchase of the gears.

   All these trial parts will be evaluated after cleaning , painting, weathering and in position on the mill floor.
   
   Jacq
   

[John McGuyer]

Ideal would be to put them in an electroless nickel tank. That way you could get the steel color down in the gears so they could look worn. Be hard to get access to a tank. Also you would want electroless which is auto catalytic as opposed to electrolytic which tends to follow the current.

Next best appears to be paint. I've achieved pretty good results with the Vallejo metallics as they seem to have very fine pigments and give a good metal effect. I have no experience with the Testors stuff that you can polish but that sounds good.

The trick with spin casting would be to find someone that would stick it in their mold along with their parts. You do not want to make an entire mold for your parts. Just the rubber is about $50.00 (wholesale) and remember it is not just rubber like you are using. They are special dedicated pieces and they are baked. It is common for model shops to run a spin cast mold with a bunch of test parts so if you know anyone who does that work, give them a call.

Looking forward to seeing more.

John