Silverwood , alternatives

[mad gerald]

I will wait for the movie with English subtitles ...-- Russ

... which part? "Return of the wood weatherer"? "The weathering strikes back"? ...   ... --dam dlareg

[marc_reusser]

The English version will likely be a straight to DVD at best ....and then they will likely drag it out a year before they are allowed to issue it on this side of the pond. 

[Design-HSB]

Hi Marc, as the German version would be even better like me. Can you give me please a reference source for the German version.

[marc_reusser]

Helmut,

Not sure what you mean by "reference source".
If you mean where to get it, they should have it at any local hobby shop in Germany.

The articles are nothing new/special or earth shattering......the first article deals with creating the worn wood/boards, the second with coloring the wood with the Tamiya paints, and the third  is the one deals with further weathering/coloring the wood using AK products, and creating the moss and lichen effects.

I believe they were in the February, March, and April issues of this year, in the section "Modelbau Akademie". I have not yet seen the articles in print/person...so I have no idea what they actually say or look like.

Marc

[lab-dad]

Just do a web search for "model fan"      I was surprised at all the wrong things I saw!
May be i should photoshop Marc's head on one of the pictures! LOL!

At least we here in the USA are able to have Marc give us the text.
A BIG thank you to him!
I'm looking forward to trying it.
-Marty

[Tom Neeson]

As of late I (with Gordon) have found Tamiya acrylics worked "wet" with Tamiya lacquer thinner or Mr. Hobby Color Thinner, have yielded wonderful scale wood results.

Per Olav Lund uses Vallejo acrylics worked "wet".

Both create an opaque stain/wash that giveas a dead flat and solid appearance to the wood. No worries about eventual wood discoloration. It's a lot of work, somewhat messy, stinks if using the lacquer thinners...and maybe not suited to everything...but the- bomb, for detail pieces, dioramas, and smaller structures.


Marc

Hi Marc
Probably obvious to everyone else, but what exactly do you mean by worked "wet"?

Thanks, Tom

[marc_reusser]

Tom,

The official description: 

Wet-on-wet, or alla prima (Italian, meaning at first attempt), is a painting technique, used mostly in oil painting, in which layers of wet paint are applied to previous layers of wet paint. This technique requires a fast way of working, because the work has to be finished before the first layers have dried. It may also be referred to as 'direct painting' or the French term au premier coup (at first stroke).

...basically you want to keep the colors wet/damp, so that you get beter blending, shading and transitions.

[Tom Neeson]

Ah...ok, I think I get it.
You apply a few different colors, but don't let them dry between coats...or something.
Will have to try this.

Thanks Marc
Tom

[lab-dad]

FWIW;
Minwax has a new grey stain (oil base).
I picked up a can for giggles and will post some examples soon.
-Marty
I wonder about the fading issue..............

[Younger]

Marty, if you look at my test panel, you'll see the Minwax (#5) barely showed evidence of fading after 7-1/2 months of flourescent light at two feet, 16 hours/day.
-Younger

[Henrik Melvold]

Sorry for kicking a bit old topic back to life, but I just wanted to share a technique that I find to work pretty well.

The barn on my Goose on the loose diorama, is a wooden building which I wanted to have a old look.

The method I used for painting old wood is this:
1. Use bass wood strips for the wood.
2. stick them to a Capafix board to be able to mass produce the strips. I needed lots of them.
3. Make the sticks wet, by applying water.
4. Use a Q-tip to apply Vallejo paint. A bit white and a bit silvergrey. The point is to vary the colors.
5. When the paint is still a bit wet, use a paint brush to apply black ink. The capillary effect will make the ink spread out in the partly wet paint.
6. Fiddle around with the ink until you get the desired look. Variation is the key. Treat each wood strip individually.










This is what it looks like when dry and attached to the building.



Henrik

[marc_reusser]

Henrik,

Welcome to the forum. Nice way to to revive this post! 

This is a very interesting and new approach, and gives a nice result. I am thinking that one could possibly even also add some brown/walnut/sepia drawing ink as well, to get some brown streaking/staining areas as well.

Did you add grain to the wood before the staining?

Have you had any issues with the ink fading over time (in the sunlight or under flourescent lighting)?

Have you tried going over a piece after it was dry, with a really thin wash of another color, such as Vallejo beige/tan? ....the reason I ask, was wondering if the ink re-activates.

BTW. looks like a cool scene in the works.

[chester]

Sometimes simple works best for me. The decking and small shed in this 1/87 scale diorama were built out of clear white pine strips. They were treated with diluted PolyScale Grimy Black. Some color was added with chalk powders. Time has not altered the color.

[Henrik Melvold]

Henrik,

Welcome to the forum. Nice way to to revive this post! 

This is a very interesting and new approach, and gives a nice result. I am thinking that one could possibly even also add some brown/walnut/sepia drawing ink as well, to get some brown streaking/staining areas as well.

Did you add grain to the wood before the staining?

Have you had any issues with the ink fading over time (in the sunlight or under flourescent lighting)?

Have you tried going over a piece after it was dry, with a really thin wash of another color, such as Vallejo beige/tan? ....the reason I ask, was wondering if the ink re-activates.

BTW. looks like a cool scene in the works.

Thanks for the welcome.

I'll try to answer your qestions.

I don't know if it fades over time. I haven't exposed my dioramas to sunlight over a long period of time. I guess it behaves like ink on paper.

I am pretty sure you will get nice effects using a brown ink as well. On this project, I used various green and brown enamels from the AK Interactive range after the ink/paint was dry to add stains.

I also added a normal wash (oils/turpentine from Abteilung) to bring out the holes from the nails, and other features. The ink didn't re-activate. I haven't tried to apply acryllics after the ink dried. Bit I don't think that will be a problem.

Hope this answers your questions

Henrik

[finescalerr]

Two good techniques. The use of paint would seem to minimize fading and tend to make the color a little more opaque. Marc once pointed out that sun bleached wood is pretty opaque and showed me an example in my own backyard. -- Russ