Quiet earth (was: Exercise module for Plettenberg railroad in 1/22.5 scale)

[Hydrostat]

The problem is the slotted back rest holder, which is too long to reposition the pivot. As Helmut said he often needs to make a test model to see if everything works as is thought. Given all drawings were made two-dimensional it's hard to imagine how the parts work together if you can't take any measures at all. So that isn't Helmut's mistake.

Volker

[finescalerr]

Who would think a chair would make such an interesting model? -- Russ

[marc_reusser]

So when will this chair kit be available! (wonderful little piece)

[Design-HSB]

Hello,

I spoke with Volker and we talked about what so everything should be present in at least one porter.
We found primarily, a chair would not be bad.
I still have a really old simple wooden chair and slammed against a build like that.
Then Volker came with the swivel chair and said he would like something very model of justice, but he could not build such a thing could even say he at the moment.
My statement was, of course, you could build something like this and I see no problem with.
Added to this was the fact that I developed for myself, interested in such a swivel chair with me.
I asked why Volker, once to collect images and draw the chair in simple views.

A short time later I had pictures and drawings, and from the PDF I generated the milling files for an exercise chair.

As usual, came with me once brass used, since this material can be worked particularly well.


Getting parts for a swivel chair.
This was the first part that I created and was able to present Volker.
Since it is an exercise chair, we realized that the needs of the backrest must be even better.
Therefore Volkers concentrated thoughts and my actions even once on the back.


Development and formation of the backrest.
Below left, the first exercise of the backrest, while the upholstery studs were introduced as drillings.
But still lacked the transferred seat cover, I milled a framework to simulate this better.
Only here the decorative upholstery nails looked not even look convincing.
Then Volker suggested to use a male that was better because now the nails had to be so only in a negative light.
The result was the male top left and top right of the imprint.

The imprint of the male I made with 2 mm gray board.
These both have simply clamped in a vise with smooth jaws and compresses the gray board to about 1 mm.
Then I cut out the back to the male around with a sharp knife.
The backrest I could now turn in this form and then soaked in glue and strengthened by it.
After drying, the chipboard could be ground into shape.


First compilation of the now successful swivel chair parts.
The seat was cut from a 2-mm polystyrene plate in the form.
So the parts for the swivel chair and looked out afterwards been added was also a seat cushion of a mm to the right 2 cut polystyrene piece was created.
But there were still missing more parts that could now be made.


Seat, spring retainer, rotating bearing disk, and the back spring roller holder with the slots are too wide.
Here, watch again the seat cushion, also spring retainer, pivot wheel, reel seat and back spring.


Then, the seat and the backrest have been connected for the first time sample of the back spring.
In the production of properly functioning bolt and wing nut I'm still separately.
Unfortunately, it turned out that the slots were too wide in the back spring and still no adequate clamping was achieved with the bolt and wing nut.


Links jig for mounting the roller into the chair legs.
The 3 holes on the top edge serve to hold the deburring of the role holder.
Law, the bending theory of the role holder.

Now I dealt with the roles, after all, can rotate and roll really should.
The role holder I had already shown in the bend.
To bend I had created me a bending tool.
In the spring tempered stainless steel but no sharp-edged bending is possible without it breaking.


The role holder are pre-formed with the bending theory.
First wheels milled sample this course, must be deburred.


M 0.6 wingnuts
To create the wing nuts I once introduced a 0.5 mm hole in a 2 mm brass plate.
Then I milled with a 90 ° prick a 3 mm circle around the hole 1 mm deep.
This was later the lower slope of the wing nut.
Now I have the plate upside down to edit it from the other side.
First, a short train was placed 1 mm deep with a 1-mm cutters exactly centered over the 0.5 mm hole.
Finally, I had to mill out only the contour of the wing nut.
What is still missing were the classic round wing and the M 0.6 thread.
In addition I have taken an M and started to cut the 0.6 thread taps.
I simply keep the wing nut between your fingers and then quickly comes the moment where threading is slightly heavier.
From this moment I use to free-hand, with a very fine diamond cutting wheel, the wing to drag around.
Now turn the tap back gently rid of all the fine chips, and then finish by cutting the thread.

[Ray Dunakin]

Amazing work!

[finescalerr]

Lord have mercy!! -- Russ

[Don]

Hopefully my wood project comes out as well!
Marty

Thanks, Marty. I'm sure it will come out better!

Hello, my name is Don and I am a new member. A few months ago Russ suggested that I join the form to help improve my narrow gauge modeling but this is just scary! Even the broken bricks and pot holes, filled in with dirt look real. The rails and the switch section, wow. He could probably make a plastic pizza look eatable. I might have to turn my tools into the Goodwill an start watching sports on TV and get a twitter account.
Don

Thank you very much Don! Please don't be discouraged by anybody's work. We all started as beginners (not knowing at all which status you have!). But I'm afraid you posted in the wrong thread: Here is the guy who makes plastic pizza eatable ... (Chuck, I'll take a quattro stagioni). This always makes me feel like a bloody fumbler  .

Meanwhile I made a drawing of an old Bakelite phone for the janitor's desk.





And I found a nice chair:



Um, don't know yet how to do that ...

Volker

Thanks for the encouragement Volker, you have rescued me from watching American Throw Ball on TV, I will keep plodding on. I just got back from Europe hence the lag in responding. I got to ride the Euro Star, wow. As I am new to this thread/site could you tell me what scale are you working in? I take it that each line on the the ruler is an actual millimeter?
I will have to dig out old projects that I stopped working on because of ignorance on how to continue. I am feeling inspired and learning things already.
Thanks again, Don

[Hydrostat]

Hi, Don,

it's 1:22.5 scale. You're right: those are millimeters opn the ruler. But this was Helmut's work ... Time to post some own stuff again.

Cheers,
Volker

[Hydrostat]

Hi all,

there hasn't been too much progress on that project. There was some sort of confined writer's block and some time-consuming preoccupation with CAD construction of items for another project.

The phone's development has gone further, but didn't reach the end by now. But I wood like to show some steps. First I had it printed at a company which had done a metal sleeper for me:



Left side is an older SLS print by another company, the right one is printed on an Objet Eden 350V. There were only some horizontal lines on the slopes I had to remove. The upper surface and the screws showed no noteworthy stains at all. Track gauge is 45 mm.

But - not so with the phone:



Blackening it with an edding you had a perfect look of an old bakelite phone sprinkeld with melted iron.



I used some acetone soluble colour to equalize the worst stains, but it hasn't gone very much better. Still been too far away from being good.





Obviously it depends on the choosen geometry, what a printer can afford. Meanwhile I found another company that uses an EnvisionTec printer with very good results - independent of geometry:





I decided to have this one casted in white metal after removal of the knobs which remained from the printing process. I'll show the results in a week or two.

And now to something completely different.



Here's how to:

• Print some scaled pictures of leafs and cut them out.

• Glue a piece of cigarette paper as leaf sheet to that.
• Fix with very thin super glue.
• Cut down leaf sheet to scale.

• Glue the single leafs on a piece of sharpened iron wire.
• Color the bottom of the leafs and other white parts with semigloss acryls, using the brush stains to get some structure.
• Color the upper sprout with red water color.

That's it. There' room for improvement: Next time I'll use thinner paper for printing and a nail scissor to cut the leafs out. The visible sharp edges result from using a cutter blade (I think you call it Exacto or so?).

Next step was a small table in fifties' design.





Here's how to:

• Research for a suitabel table.
• Dewarp with photoshop and print on glossy paper.
• Cut out tabletop from cardboard and drench with super glue.
• Drill some holes for the legs.
• Taper toothpicks by sanding them down in the drill.
• Cut and drill the reinforcement plates from cardboard.
• Glue and drench printout, tabletop, reinforcement plates and legs with super glue.
• Cut some self adhesive copper foil and glue it on the table's edge.
• Fix again with super glue.
• Sand with very fine sandpaper; gives a nice effect of a worn plate if done too much.
• Color bottom and legs with matte brown acrylics.
• Rub in white shoe polish to everything.

That's it.



But I got a hint at German buntbahn forum, that the linoleum was not correctly represented as there's no repeating pattern at the prototype. So I changed that after some additional information from a nice phonecall with the historian of a linoleum company.





I'll add some dust and stains, when the ínterior equipment has found it's final place.

I hope I didn't get you too tired. But if so: Good night.







And a bit more theatrical for the moonstruck ones:




It's still the old phone version. I'll fix the cable to the plate at the final version.

Cheers,
Volker

[Ray Dunakin]

Great stuff! The floor looks terrific!

[BKLN]

Volker,
this is amazing!
It's hilarious, that you consider this just your "exercise" module for an even bigger project.
What you show, is the transition from model building into micro-engineering and back! So many people can do either or, but you are master of both! Echte Meisterklasse!

Christian

[finescalerr]

I like your use of so many materials: Metal, plastic, wood, photos and paper, plaster (for the streets), 3-D prints ... the list goes on. Very instructive. -- Russ

[Arno Boudoiron]

Definitely amazing! 

[Hydrostat]

Thank you very much, Ray, Christian, Russ and Arno,

I always feel that there's room for improvement. That's why this is and keeps being my exercise module. For example the window board at the second last picture should have had sharper edges. In the corner you see that the pigments have built up too much. You'll read more about it in the coming modelers' annual, as Russ mentioned, so I don't want to tell too much about it now. Some people say macro photography is a curse. I don't think so. If you try to reach a 1:1 scale impression it simply helps to do it better next time or avoid mistakes in choice of materials, for example.

I appreciate your words very much. learned a lot about CAD from my friend frithjof for example, who's writing here, too. If there's a "Meisterklasse", you surely find it here in this forum. Not the worst company ...

Volker

[Hydrostat]

It took some more time but I would call the phone done. Meanwhile I got the white metal castings of the phone. That's what it looks like when painted with some aceton soluble color. Size is 7.5 x 7 x 7 mm (exactly 1:22.5 scale):









The casting resulted in more items than I need. So, if there's someone interested in a casting (see pic below) please send me a pm.



Cheers,
Volker