Quiet earth (was: Exercise module for Plettenberg railroad in 1/22.5 scale)

[finescalerr]

I can read the numbers on the telephone dial. So the question is ... does the telephone actually work? --  Russ

[fspg2]

Hi Russ,

You can try it here:

www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=94324&size=big&password=&sort=2&thecat=8859

[marc_reusser]

There is OCD...and then there is this.

[Chuck Doan]

Yes, but over here we channel it into more interesting things than washing our hands a lot or keeping a sock drawer. For every color. In alphabetical order.

[Hydrostat]

Frithjof, that was not nice for those who don't understand that Klingon like language called 'German'. And for me, who I am debunked as a paranoid fusspot now. Which I am. My socks have their own weekday written on. And 'L' and 'R' which means 'links' and 'rechts', but that's too difficult to translate.

The picture was a photoshop fun after several guys complained about the missing digits. I know: No forgery. So get your guns back to the holsters.

How does that grab you: The fingers will press on the 0.3mm switch ... its may be a bloody  thing... perhaps an electronic touch switch hidden in the desk under the lamp will help....

Come on, Frithjof, that isn't prototypical at all. But an interesting idea.

Thanks for the pics, Frithjof!


Cheers,
Volker

[finescalerr]

I am all but certain that telephone works. I bet we could use it to call Klingon. And, seriously, that is an amazing piece of modeling. -- Russ

[Hydrostat]

I am all but certain that telephone works. I bet we could use it to call Klingon. And, seriously, that is an amazing piece of modeling. -- Russ

Thanks, Russ. For sure those Klingons do like bloody finger lamp switches. Unfortunately there's no desk to place a test lamp on. But I had to find out if it works.










It does. So I don't have to show you pictures of a bloody fingertip with an outreageous, horrifying, tremendous amount of 0.3 mm stab wounds. There were none.

Unfortunately our world doesn't seem to have locking switches in that size. This needs an electronic solution which Helmut started to develop.

Whatsoever, the tabletop needs a base. There it is.
















Any suggestion how to get rid of the deep fiber marks? Sanding didn't help.



Cheers,
Volker

[finescalerr]

The only way I know to fill or minimize the wood grain is to use caulk or that waxy crayon stuff (the fillers a cabinet finisher uses) or else to seal, prime, and paint the wood. Either way you would lose the appearance of real wood. Why didn't you use a very close-grained wood like Swiss pear? This is very unlike you. -- Russ

[Hydrostat]

It's the same material I used for the wall panels in the director's room and I wanted the same appearance. At the walls it doesn't look that coarse it does at the desk.

Volker

[Hal Reynolds]

Volker,
There are some products furniture builders use to fill corse grain woods. One brand name is "Wunderfil Wood Filler", I guess it is used on oak a lot because of the grain.  It is like a past that you wipe over the surface and then lightly sand and finish.

Hal

[Hydrostat]

Thanks, Hal. I tried something like that, but the result didn't pass my claims. I'll build a new one. Have to check out my supplier.

Volker

[5thwheel]

Quote: Any suggestion how to get rid of the deep fiber marks? Sanding didn't help."

Try pear wood,steamed is darker but it takes a stain well.

Bill

[BKLN]

Volker,
I have proven your painting skills again and again. I doubt you would have any trouble to match that wood effect on styrene.
The other option would be the "Uschi-Van-Der-Rosten" wood decals over styrene. I have never worked with them, but Marc Reusser speaks very highly of them.

Christian

[marc_reusser]

What about using a different wood....something that has a really tight grain, like "Pear Wood" (Birren Holz). http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/pear/

Also wondering if a wood like "Jelutong"  http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/jelutong/  might work...we used to machine prototype parts and mold masters from it. Might still need some sort of pore filler, but it sands and finishes real smooth. (When given a coat or two of catalyzed primer we even used to be able to get high polished gloss surfaces).

....or like Christian suggests...the decals, in combination with artists oils to paint end grains and grain on surfaces/areas where decals are hard to apply.

[lab-dad]

FWIW - the grain is running the wrong direction on the drawers and the band in the same area.
Love the color though!
-Marty