Catwoman / D4C

[Bill76]

@John : thanks for your advice and I will follow that for the next project.

The track system is paint as well and the oil paint process. The result is a bit glossy despite having put the oil paints on a piece of cartboard. The excess of oil was off but maybe not enough.

[Bill76]

I use differents pigments and Fixer from Mig on the track system. This needs to dry for a while to give a realistic dry mud aspect. I add plaster to the mixture to increase the volume and to fill the space between the parts inside.

[Bill76]

Several thin layers of light yellow tones are sprayed as the first step of the dust process. I use Tamiya colors (XF- 57 buff, XF-59 Desert yellow and XF-60 Dark yellow). After that, pigments and brush for a final aspect.

[Bill76]

All the differents parts of the driver's area are glued and the levers are on their place. On the hood, the exhaust pipe has been painted in a rusty and smoky way thanks to the pigments.

I start the final assembly with the hoses, the hood is fitted on the chassis with the engine inside, the front grill as well.

Georges.

[finescalerr]

No longer looks like plastic.... -- Russ

[Bill76]

@Russ : resin dust is far behind me now ...

Lot of work on the tracks. The plates are in white metal and this kit is from Scaledown models. After a good soapy cleaning operation, I lay a first coat of german panzer from Prince August with a spraycan.

I mask the ''rolling path'' before laying a coat of rust colors / set Lifecolor. I use the airspray and little sponges to create a random aspect. The an coat of AK fluid Heavy Chipping. A new coat of Yellow paint Foundation / Citadel at the end.

As the previous HS process, the paint is taken off with warm water and a brush. Quite a funny part !

I add some more tones with a hard brush to create rusty splatches on the plates. The effects are very subtles. I have done the same on the blade.

[Bill76]

I seal this first acrylic paint process with thin layers of matt varnish to prevent from any reaction with the forthcoming enamel and oil paints operation.

I use the Africa Dust effects / AK to underline the 288 bolts and the shape of the 72 plates. Let it dry a couple of hours. Raw Amber oil paint is applied gently where needed before some Gun metal paint on the corners to simulate the wear metal. Brush ans sponge are used for this quick process.

[Bill76]

The rear drive wheels are painted as well. I will use a paper pencil at the end on some parts in addition of the Gun metal paint.

The last step is to add mud / soil / dust effects : Tamiya paints as Buff and Yellow desert are pretty good. I paint with the airbrush at firts with a thin layer of dust, and I create some splatches with a brush with paint and the index finger.

The last work is to mount the tracks on the track system. Ready for the final assembly. Oil and grease will be added at the end on the diorama.

Georges.

[Wesleybeks]

Bill you have really turned a crappy model into something brilliant.

I cant wait to see this all together. Great work.

[Ray Dunakin]

I like the dried mud and dirt on the tracks/wheel assemblies.

[Bill76]

@Wesley : thanks for your comment. The end is coming soon. Even if the Wespe 's kits are usually rather better and uncommon, this one seems to be one of worth. Lack of inspiration or information ? I don't know.

@Ray : I like the dry aspect as well after following an Adam's Wilder report in a french modelling magazine. It has worked quite well.

The last part but not the least is the blade.

I follow the same painting process as the frame and the tracks. Same colors. I was just expecting a blade with more variation of colors and effects so I choose to add a n extra extention on the upper side of the blade.

Here are the pictures after the HS process before adding any kind of oil paint or anything else.

[Bill76]

As the extra extension represents a second hand fitting, this metal sheet is really rusty and already paint in a random camo. For that, I paint it with rusty, gray and orange tones. All are acrylics from Prince August and Citadel applied with the airbrush and sponge. Some cuts of Tamiya mask give straight shpaes to the color.

[Bill76]

Splashes of paint are made with an an hard brush and the index finger. It creates very nice and small stains of rust. Easy to do.

[Bill76]

To give e new effect, I represent the welding operation. I apply mate black / Citadel to create the smoke / dust of the cutting torch. This is made with the airbrush carefully to make as straight as possible.

This paint is layed on both side of the extension.

[Bill76]

The white chalk marks make a nice contrast with the black welding dust. I use a white pencil.

The last step before the dust operation is to paint the welding joint with a metallic acrylic paint.

Same paint to underline the corners of the blade, the U frame and the extension. Nice contrast between the old paint and the wear metal.

Georges